What is the Best USB Pass through?
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I can't name one with those requirements.... but I could make one. There are 5v PT's, but most have cut-offs. How long a hit do you really need? (I keep wondering what it is that I'm missing and why people need 30 second hits from an e-cig. Must be more to it....suspiciously typed)
There's instructions in the modder's section for 5v PTs if you don't find one pre-made. Just make sure you get an 2+ amp power supply (3 or more amps even better...needed for DCC's)
There's instructions in the modder's section for 5v PTs if you don't find one pre-made. Just make sure you get an 2+ amp power supply (3 or more amps even better...needed for DCC's)
It doesn't have to be 30 seconds but 20 seconds would be nice. 10 is just not enough to heat things up for me...
Do you use 5v now? If not, you may find that 5v is much warmer. Depends on exact hardware combo too. But a true 5v with 10 seconds should be OK ... unless you've tried that and are unhappy (not trying to tell you what you should like... just checking).
You can always use 3.0 ohm stuff, or 2.8 ish stuff ...should be very warm. I use 3.2 ohms at 5v.
Once you get an A/C-to-USB that delivers the full 5 volts (because it has the amps)... it should rock.
Best guesses.
You can always use 3.0 ohm stuff, or 2.8 ish stuff ...should be very warm. I use 3.2 ohms at 5v.
Once you get an A/C-to-USB that delivers the full 5 volts (because it has the amps)... it should rock.
Best guesses.
OK. In case you didn't do the math, or for others reading this. 4.6 volts at 2.8 ohms is 7.56 watts drawing 1.64 amps on your Buzz. So a similar 5 v combination (because a 5v PT is 5v... generally not vv) is 3.2 ohms (well, 3.3 is what it would be to be real close... so this would be a bit hotter). 3.0 ohm would be warmer (8.333 watts)
Another thing to think about is short-circuit protection.... if you plan on using dual-coil anything. They sometimes trip when using a DCC at 5v.
I found one reference to a 5v PT with a 15 second cut-off but it was OOS. Also, don't know the vendor:
5v 510 USB Passthrough
Another thing to think about is short-circuit protection.... if you plan on using dual-coil anything. They sometimes trip when using a DCC at 5v.
I found one reference to a 5v PT with a 15 second cut-off but it was OOS. Also, don't know the vendor:
5v 510 USB Passthrough
I have several 5V PTs that I have had for a long time with no cutoff. Mine are 808s so I could not say where you could get one in 510 threading but they are out there.
Thanks for all the help. I thought it would be a little easier to find a comparable device as my Buzz in a PT version. I was wrong Wish Puresmoker still made them. They are just around the corner...
Wish Puresmoker still made them. They are just around the corner...
I gt one from electronic stix. Have not been able to puff long enough to have it cutt off but I know it does have a cut off
I am a bit too much of a noob to say it's the best, but I really like the VV Passthrough I got at DV:
USB Variable Voltage Passthrough
I have a newer I-7 with a gigabyte board that lights this PV up the green (5v) level just fine.
It has a cutoff but it does not bother me since it is more than these tired old lungs can exceed..
For the poor mans VV experience this is a great intro.
USB Variable Voltage Passthrough
I have a newer I-7 with a gigabyte board that lights this PV up the green (5v) level just fine.
It has a cutoff but it does not bother me since it is more than these tired old lungs can exceed..
For the poor mans VV experience this is a great intro.
Looks like a neat PT. BTW, Green is 4.7v.
FYI - I'd suggest a 2 amp or better AC->USB adapter instead of the computer USB. The general consensus (at least on this forum) is:
1) Why tie up a computer USB port just for power?
2) Why risk a short in the wire or something that could damage the port?
3) Why stress the port with max amps all the time? Vaping is a lot of on-off-on-off all day long.
Some boards will handle 1.5 amps... but even that is pushing it with a true 5 volts and a 3.0 ohm atty/carto (1.7 amps)
Just
I built this computer and have been building and repairing computers and LAN and WANs for 20+ years
If this was the only computer in the house, or even in this room I would take your advice and appreciate it. As it is I appreciate the sentiment but I buy and choose computer components and peripherals with hard use and voltage drain in mind. The port I am using is one of 10 on the board and I looked up the base minimum to be usb 3 approved and the actual specs on the Japanese capacitors feeding the power circuits. I have the passthrough port and the port that feeds the external 10 port USB2 hub set as high power ports with the gigabyte driver mentioned here.
Gigabyte Boasts its USB Ports are Great for iPad
I use the pass-through with these two items as well:
ac to usb 2.1
and car usb 2.1
But in general, for most users, you are right
On most laptops or desktops the green (4.7 indeed) will not even light up.
If I let the magic smoke out of some piece of electronics I know I can always fix it or replace it with stuff I have laying around or within a half hour drive.
If this was the only computer in the house, or even in this room I would take your advice and appreciate it. As it is I appreciate the sentiment but I buy and choose computer components and peripherals with hard use and voltage drain in mind. The port I am using is one of 10 on the board and I looked up the base minimum to be usb 3 approved and the actual specs on the Japanese capacitors feeding the power circuits. I have the passthrough port and the port that feeds the external 10 port USB2 hub set as high power ports with the gigabyte driver mentioned here.
Gigabyte Boasts its USB Ports are Great for iPad
I use the pass-through with these two items as well:
ac to usb 2.1
and car usb 2.1
But in general, for most users, you are right
On most laptops or desktops the green (4.7 indeed) will not even light up.
If I let the magic smoke out of some piece of electronics I know I can always fix it or replace it with stuff I have laying around or within a half hour drive.
Looks like a neat PT. BTW, Green is 4.7v.
FYI - I'd suggest a 2 amp or better AC->USB adapter instead of the computer USB. The general consensus (at least on this forum) is:
1) Why tie up a computer USB port just for power?
2) Why risk a short in the wire or something that could damage the port?
3) Why stress the port with max amps all the time? Vaping is a lot of on-off-on-off all day long.
Some boards will handle 1.5 amps... but even that is pushing it with a true 5 volts and a 3.0 ohm atty/carto (1.7 amps)
Just
The obvious answer is the cheapest USB passthrough. If you are paying more than 10 bucks for one you are getting ripped off. You can build one yourself from spare parts and then order a 510 battery connection so easy and so cheap. AND you get to choose what it looks like.
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