What is the primer fluid made of?

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zoiDman

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guys i cant say i have ever really experienced it to be anything more than probably a few drops of PG on the coil... You guys are probably making it more confusing for yourselves than it really is... Its surely just PG or VG on the coil to keep the coil moist.

I don't understand the purpose of "primer." Some vendors ship atties that are absolutely soaked with this crap and there really isn't any reason for it. I'm glad that my vendor ships dry atties so I don't have to put up with this stuff.

In my experience it's never a been good idea to let an attie dry out. So it's easy for me to see why the primer is a necessity.

If I breathe better, then it's good. Beyond that I stopped caring what juices contain as it's pointless anyway.

Lately I have come to appreciate juice vendors who claim to sell juices with "top shelf" nicotine and PG. I can tell the difference. I suppose DIY folks can insure they use top shelf ingredients. If I had more time I would probably be a DIY.

My solution for the primer is to flood my attie on the first fill. That way I don't notice the primer.

HTH,
Dave

Found this last night... good stuff about what is in a new atomizer, and how to get rid of it properly.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/133998-how-fix-bad-taste-new-atomizers.html

To quote:

What tastes so bad then?
The manufacturing and machining residues are what tastes bad. Here we're talking about machine oil, coatings, traces of adhesives, and coatings on the silica fibers of the wick or wicks: one in the bridge and occasionally one in the atomizer coil. The first liquid put into a new atomizer will taste bad when heated, whether it's primer or normal liquid, as it absorbs the residues - plus, some things can't be removed by the liquid, and will burn off on first use.

So: nothing can be done to remove these residues except burning them off by use. It's true that soaking / rinsing in some sort of benign solvent such as alcohol will reduce these chemical residues, and thus the bad taste when the atomizer is initially fired up - but nothing does the job 100% except just using it.

Also, you might find that soaking an atomizer for the 10 or 15 minutes that will be needed to remove most of the contaminants may reduce its life. Some solvents are effective - but the more effective they are, the more they will attack the structure of the atomizer. Cola is used sometimes, for example, but the phosphoric acid in it that actually does the work is one of the few things that will break down the silica fibers of the wick/s. Using solvents, unless very briefly, reduces atomizer life.

Are you trying to make an enemy by calling me ignorant? Because that's what it is sounding like. You better watch your ....
I was just stating my thoughts on it.

Easy antlion. Not trying to make an enemy and I didn't call you ignorant. This is what I replied to you.

"There is a Very easy test for what "Surely" is PG or VG. Just take a Clean atty and drip a drop or two of PG or VG in it and take a hit.

I think you will find that it taste Nothing like what "Mystery Fluid" tastes like."

Don't see that this is something to get bent over.
 

wdave

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There is a Very easy test for what "Surely" is PG or VG. Just take a Clean atty and drip a drop or two of PG or VG in it and take a hit.

I think you will find that it taste Nothing like what "Mystery Fluid" tastes like.

It's not you. You don't understand it because there Isn't a good reason to have "Primer Fluid" on an Atty or Filler-Less Carto.

Face it, OEMs and Vendors cannot come out and say that the crap on an Atty is Machinery Oil from a poor manufacturing process. So somewhere someone started the belief that it was "Primer Fluid".

A catchy name but unfortunately it is not true. But it did serve the purpose to fool the ignorant.



Why is it a Bad idea to let an Atty dry out? What is the Only down side?

The user is going to get a weak hit or two before the wick is fully saturated.



Thanks for posting that link.

_____________________________

The long and the short of it is that I don't choose to vape "Mystery Fluid".

If others think it is safe and don't mind the taste, more power to you. But use some, I shudder to say this, Common sense.

PG doesn't taste Bad to vape. VG tastes kinda good to vape. Mystery Fluid taste like Used Motor Oil from Jiffy Lube.

Could something be going on here?

:facepalm:

My experience says that an attie should not be allowed to dry out. I have my theories though they are no more than theories. Basically heat destroys all things. Any amount of unnecessary heat will reduce attie life. No liquid to act as a coolant, then more heat.
 

zoiDman

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My experience says that an attie should not be allowed to dry out. I have my theories though they are no more than theories. Basically heat destroys all things. Any amount of unnecessary heat will reduce attie life. No liquid to act as a coolant, then more heat.

I can go with that.

But what most people find is that whatever the Mystery Fluid is that comes on some atomizer, It isn't PG and it isn't VG.

Like I said before. Try dripping either of them into a Clean atty.

PG isn't the greatest but it doesn't give me a headace and make my lungs pound.

VG is actualy not bad. Just vapor with a lite sweet taste to it.
 

JustaGuy

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zoidMan, wdave, I dry burn daily and my Joye & Riva SR attys do sit dry until I use them again, at which time, I prime with a few drops of juice, haven't lost one atty yet, in my 5th month. It's good enough for me and I like the simplicity. I haven't been at it as long as you have, so maybe I'm shortening life of batt or atty. YMMV or course. :)
 

DC2

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In my opinion, dry burns are the best way to clean an atomizer, if not the only way to REALLY clean the atomizer.
And any talk of reducing life-span, should that talk be true, is nothing compared to the life gained by cleaning them this way.

I have been dry burning my atomizers as the only way I clean them for over 16 months now.
I've never killed one, and in that time I have only used two atomizers total.
I'm still on the second one.

But if you're going to dry burn, you NEED to do it right, and know why what's right is right...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/69834-my-atty-resurrection-method.html
 

wdave

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In my opinion, dry burns are the best way to clean an atomizer, if not the only way to REALLY clean the atomizer.
And any talk of reducing life-span, should that talk be true, is nothing compared to the life gained by cleaning them this way.

I have been dry burning my atomizers as the only way I clean them for over 16 months now.
I've never killed one, and in that time I have only used two atomizers total.
I'm still on the second one.

But if you're going to dry burn, you NEED to do it right, and know why what's right is right...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/69834-my-atty-resurrection-method.html

To my knowledge there is no way to prevent damage from heat. One can slow down the path to destruction by insuring the heat is dissipated.

HTH,
Dave
 

JustaGuy

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Every Time I have attempted to dry burn an atty on my darwin it completely destroys whatever ohm rating it was to begin with which kinda defeats the purpose. Maybe I am doing it wrong.

The batt does matter and vendors say not to dry burn LR attys. The new 5 click shut off batts probably wouldn't work with the Atty Resurrection Method, which 'pulses' batts and will shut off batt. I'm cautious with more powerful batts too, Rivas I use have a 'delay burn', power stays on a second after button released. I dry burn with mini 510s just to be safe.
 

JustaGuy

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I try not to be an alarmist or paranoid about this type of thing. It does kind of freak me out that no one has ever been able to provide a difinitive/straight answer concerning what that crap is. It probably varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I just don't know...

Just wash or burn it out if you get it in new equipment. Even if you can't avoid it completely, it's still way better than what was in cigarettes. You can also buy only the brand of attys/cartos that don't add it.

Edit: Joye 510 attys had it, Riva/EM 2.2 ohm attys from LF did not, came dry, but they seem delicate.
 

zoiDman

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... It does kind of freak me out that no one has ever been able to provide a difinitive/straight answer concerning what that crap is. It probably varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I just don't know...

Now you understand why I call it "Mystery Fluid".

Some of it that I have seen looks and feels like Machinery Oil. Some looks more like Seal Lube/Grease. Some I have no idea what it is.
 

Stosh

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This stuff is a prime example of the kind of regulation that is needed in the ecig industry. We obviously can't self regulate so big brother will step in on it eventually.

Self regulations is easy, buy attys from vendors that don't have primer,
don't buy primered attys - they will disappear from the market... :)
 
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