I have to 2nd the GLVs .... just got ours and it is so easy to use and straightforward. Plus "lifetime guarantee" don't hurt! 
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Thanks.
Which are the differences between Reo grand and Reo mini? (except the size
The REO Grand holds 6ml of juice and uses an AW IMR 18650 battery, which should last all day. It also can be used with some 5v and 6v battery set ups.
The REO Mini holds 3ml of juice and uses an AW IMR 14500 battery (the ONLY battery recommended), and 2-3 batteries will get you through a day.
I have very small hands and vape 3ml per day, so I prefer the Mini. The batteries are very easy to change. Lots of people prefer the Grand.
Here is a great picture of the relative size:
Megalodon for on the road (same unit can be converted from large size to stealth mode) and for at home love the Provari. Mechanical Mods are very durable and that's the main reason I bought the Don.
I use a plain box mod and its great. I would love an 18650 3.7 volt like a Purple or Pink Silver Bullet one day when funds allow. I have no interest in VV mods just want me a longer battery life at 3.7 and pretty color...lol I prefer a mod with a button switch instead of the tactile switch or whatever its called Like on the Maxi Roughstack. I would happily take a box mod that had the higher battery life too for a more modest price than the Silver Bullet.
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REOs are my favorite but I have the Buzz Pro on loan and its quite nice to use a VV mod. I do like the idea of not having a screwdriver to adjust volts but a wheel will be better..
For me it is my Phidias collection, followed by my Mini GRIP then my GLV Super Mini.
Nothing hits at 3.7 to me like the Phids.
So yeah wooden box mods to me are the best!
Nothing hits at 3.7 to me like the Phids.
So yeah wooden box mods to me are the best!
For 3.7V vaping. Nothing beats a REO nor a Hog mod. Both are in a league of their own and work wonderfully. There is a LOT of hype around VV mods but, for me 3.7V + LR atty/carto is all I need. Although, I do have a few VV mods, they don't see much use anymore.
Really, all 3.7v mods that use 14500 batteries should use AW IMR batteries (BDLs are theoretically OK, but there have been a lot of people unhappy with their performance).
From http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html
14500 battery - 3.6 v
4.2 volts off charge, 3.6 volts in use, 3 volts minimum
14mm x 50mm (AA size)
THIS IS THE SMALLEST CELL THOUGHT TO BE SUITABLE FOR USE IN A MOD. Cells smaller than this simply do not have a high enough C rating. Not all cells of this size will have sufficient power, only AW Li-Mn cells are known to be safe at this size, others may be but this cannot be stated as fact.
Power rating for rechargeables
The critical factor for ecig mod use is the C rating (discharge current) in amps. The minimum possible value for safe and effective ecig use is 1 amp (= 1000mA) although ideally it needs to be higher. The ideal rating is 2 amps (2000mA) or better as an atomizer usually draws 1A to 2A.
Chart of C ratings vs size
1C or less for low-quality Li-FePo4
Assume 1C for generic Li-ion unless otherwise noted
1.5C for ultra/sure/trust/-fire Li-ion
2C for AW ICR (Li-ion)
3C for BDL 10440 IMR (Li-Mn)
5C for BDL 14500 IMR (Li-Mn)
8C for AW 14500 and 16340 IMR (Li-Mn)
10C for AW 18650 IMR (Li-Mn)
10C for AW Li-FePo4
Note:
Tenergy etc Li-FePo4 (small cells) - <0.55A (~1C - half an amp or less - not suitable for ecig use)
Max drain rate in amps is C in mAh / 1000 x C rating
Example: an AW IMR Li-Mn 14500 battery has a capacity of 600mAh. The C rating is 8C (it can supply 8 times the capacity). Therefore the max discharge current in amps is:
600 x 8 over 1000 (600 multiplied by 8 divided by 1000)
= 4800 / 1000
= 4.8 amps
This shows it has enough beef to safely and effectively run an atomizer - which some 14500's don't. In other words it is less likely to go into thermal runaway if there is an internal fault in the battery and is then used to power a device that draws a relatively high current such as an atomizer; and it will not suffer from excessive voltage drop when powering the atty.
Useful formulas
Amp draw = voltage / resistance
Example: a 5 volt mod is used with a 2.5 ohm atomizer - what current is drawn?
5 / 2.5 = 2
The battery must supply 2 amps.
Power used by atomizer in Watts = volts x amps, or volts x volts / resistance
Example: a 5 volt mod delivers 2 amps to the 2.5 ohm atty - what power is used?
5 x 2 = 10
The atty uses 10 watts
or
5 x 5 / 2.5 = 10 watts
Mind if I say BS
AW IMR's are not the only good bat on the planet
Most vapers vape in the 7-8watt range (2amps or less), and are just as well off sticking to protected batteries.
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They are not the only good battery on the planet, but in the 14500 size, they are the only acceptable battery to use with LR attys. If you look at the formula, bigger batteries have higher capacity, therefore not as critical.
Any charger made for 3.7v LiIon batteries. The best is the Pila Pila IBC Battery Charger , but it is more expensive. I like the WF-139 Ultrefire WF-139
If you are thinking about getting a REO, this is a helpful guide: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...if-reo-your-first-mod-what-you-will-need.html
Wow Am I ever in trouble then
This huge 10440 flame that I've had a 1.5ohm 306 on for the last 6 months is going to imlode at any moment!
Here's what's wrong with your example;
How in the hell did you get 5v out of one 14500 bat without a booster ckt?
So let's run your little formula at 3.7v which would only be 6.8watts @ 1.8amps
Yes I run 5v on 14500's a great deal of the time, but it's two of them rated @ 900mAh each (with 3ohm atties/cartos)
Which is 8watts @ 1.6amps
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