What I've been up to... My Magnum mod

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D_Struct

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Feb 9, 2009
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Hey D_Struct

Your mod looks great -
Got my harbor freight flyer today and noticed your detonator case is going on sale half off - like 3.98 Nice :thumb:


I guess I need to head back to Harbor Freight, then! lol

Thanks for the head's up, Madog!

I'd like to build at least 2 or 3 more. 1 for a friend that just got into e-cigs, and a few extra for the sake of having a couple laying around.
 

ainako

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First of all thanks for the write up D_struct! I'm having trouble understanding about making the notch on the PVC for the ground connection for the switch. Also I was reading the reviews on the switch you linked for us and was a little concerned about the life of the switch, how easily can you service it?
 

D_Struct

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Feb 9, 2009
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Lufkin, TX
First of all thanks for the write up D_struct! I'm having trouble understanding about making the notch on the PVC for the ground connection for the switch. Also I was reading the reviews on the switch you linked for us and was a little concerned about the life of the switch, how easily can you service it?

Well, given that a two pack of the momentary switches is $3, I'm not overly concerned about the switches. It's a standard design, and could be switched out very easily.

The reason you notch the PVC near the switch is to allow a place to run a wire to the flashlight casing to form the negative connection. If you don't cut a notch, the switch prongs will be surrounded by the PVC.
 

ainako

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i think I understand now, so both the negative and positive wires run through body of the flashlight to the PCB except that the negative runs outside of the PVC sleeve and the positive wire runs inside the sleeves alongside the batteries to the PCB. Or am I missing something? Seriously, thanks for all the help!
 

D_Struct

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i think I understand now, so both the negative and positive wires run through body of the flashlight to the PCB except that the negative runs outside of the PVC sleeve and the positive wire runs inside the sleeves alongside the batteries to the PCB. Or am I missing something? Seriously, thanks for all the help!

No problem. I'm glad to help.

You're right, but, you're overcomplicating things a little bit.

First, you don't need to run a wire inside the PVC pipe. The red line in my diagram just shows the direction the positive charge is headed. There's no wire. As long as the prong of the switch hits the back of the battery, the two batteries are touching, and the 2nd battery is touching the spring, the positive side of the circuit is complete.

The wire that runs outside of the PVC (negative) only needs to be there to make contact with the inner wall of the flashlight case. The negative circuit runs from the wire through the inner wall of the flashlight to the outer ring of the circuit board. You can't solder to aluminum (or very well, at least), and the wire is just there because it gets pinned between the PVC and the inner wall of the flashlight. It keeps a good connection this way. You don't have to run it all the way to the circuit board.

The 4 solder points on the very outer part of the circuit board make contact with the wall of the flashlight. This allows the power to jump from the switch to the wire, to the wall of the flashlight, and then to the circuit board (or, actually in reverse order).
 
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eskimoroll

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Feb 1, 2009
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Is anyone currently working on one of these?

I'd love to see how it's looking, if you are!

The batteries are on order, the flashlight is sitting at home, and I'm going to visit radio shack today to see if I can find any of those coaxial fittings (as well as more juice box mod supplies). I would still need to pick up some PVC from home depot but that can wait.
 

eskimoroll

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arrgh! I can't seem to get this thing to work! :mad: The mod looks just like your detonator but i must be doing something wrong... My guess is that I screwed up the circuit board and I'm grounding it someone. Either that or maybe I broke something on the size m coaxial atomizer connector. I think I'll try different wires as well.

If I wanted to ditch the circuit board, should I just epoxy the negative wire from the atomizer connector to the flashlight wall and direct connect the positive wire to the spring? For something so darn simple it's making me crazy!
 

eskimoroll

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:evil:
On some of the coaxial connectors there isn't any connection between the solder lugs and the outside threaded part. You have to solder a connection or otherwise make one.

Yeah, I've been working with these for a bit so when I connect them, I typically solder the positive wire to the solder lead which goes to the middle and the negative wire directly to the outside threads. Of course I absolutely suck at soldering these things. I swear I sand and clean them and it still takes me a dozen attempts. I think I should just epoxy the darn things on and be done with it. :oops:
 

D_Struct

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Feb 9, 2009
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If I wanted to ditch the circuit board, should I just epoxy the negative wire from the atomizer connector to the flashlight wall and direct connect the positive wire to the spring? For something so darn simple it's making me crazy!

That should work.

Do you have a circuit tester so you can check out the circuit board? If one little strand of solder bleeds over from the outside band of the circuit board to the inner, you're screwed. It has to be clean.
 

eskimoroll

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That should work.

Do you have a circuit tester so you can check out the circuit board? If one little strand of solder bleeds over from the outside band of the circuit board to the inner, you're screwed. It has to be clean.

Yeah, my soldering technique is still really poor so I'm suer I caused a short somewhere. I do have a multimeter but I'm not too familiar with it so I always seem to forget how to use it. I should have been using it from the beginning but what fun would mods be without endless hours of frustration? :D
 

D_Struct

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Feb 9, 2009
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Yeah, my soldering technique is still really poor so I'm suer I caused a short somewhere. I do have a multimeter but I'm not too familiar with it so I always seem to forget how to use it. I should have been using it from the beginning but what fun would mods be without endless hours of frustration? :D

The quickest way to check your soldering is to just apply one end of the multimeter to the outer rim of the board, and the other to the inner rim or the spring.

It's as easy as seeing if there's an open leg in the circuit. If you test it, and there's an open leg, you're on the right track. There shouldn't be a circuit established.
 

eskimoroll

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ARGHHH! I re-soldered all my connections, checked every piece over with the mulitmeter adnd still nothing. Out of frustration, I ripped out the circuit board and tried just running wire to the atomizer from the batteries... nothing. However, just one time, the wires were all jumbled up and somehow, the atomizer fired up bright red! So there's hope... I must be missing something obvious.
 
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