What's going on with Kanger coils lately?

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LA-Vapite

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Dec 13, 2013
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Aspire BDC have been my favorite for ego threaded tanks for quite some time, They hit a bit hard but great flavor and I get a very high % of good coils off the 1.8's. One limitation is a rebuild is a bit to hard on these yeses, and even on an empty tank , it takes a while to 'flush" the flavor, so I tend to not use these for flavor changing.

Has anyone ever opened the airholes on these

Now I too am seeing really poor single coil Kangers.
The Dual coils on the New evod and Mini PT3 seem quite nice so far.

However the poor singles finally dove into some rebuilding equipment.


28 gage, 1/16 , a small torch, and CVS cotton. For my 2 protanks, this is working quite nicely.
The beginning Cotton taste if far less offensive then a crappy Kanger coil any day - and that dissipated quite fast.
I feel my mods can handle higher wattger off my own builds
Today I was 2 for 2 in getting 1.60 and 1.75 off a 10 coil wrap. I found for my poor eyes, the torch really makes working with the wire easier and more micro/nano consistent.

Using the jeweler style cheaps from Amazon also help quite a bit
Amazon.com: Jeweler's Lighted High-Power Magnifier Visor - 1.5X to 10.5X: Home Improvement

For those of you with PT2, the Airflow addition valve really makes the difference as well
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Protank II, Protank 3, Aerotank

Good juice for me off the cotton Build is really shining!
 

AndriaD

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What do you mean by torching?

You should torch SS mesh to oxidize it, and I torch my coils after I build them while compressing them in tweezers so that they set in place.

Did you do this while the silica was dry?

Well I don't have a torch, so I use a lighter; the info on the email they sent with my order conf says to be sure to "torch" the silica with a "blue flame" before use. I just got done dry-burning two of those coils; I got rid of the existing flavor wick, and dry-burned the coil with the silica wick in it, as usual. Then, for the flavor wick, I took a piece of the silica I use for that and held it in the blue part of the lighter's flame; it's easy to tell if you do it right, because if you hold it in any other part of the flame, it turns the wick brown; the blue part of the flame does not.

I rinsed both of them completely after doing all this, so I'm going to let them dry naturally before I try to use them, and just see if there is improvement. I think there will be. The wicks were working fine in terms of actual mechanical use -- not leaking, no dry hit burnt taste, and plenty of vapor -- there just wasn't much taste at all, and what little there was, tasted odd. I think the heat does something molecularly to the silica, or maybe it just cleans it really well, to remove impurities, which impurities could be what I was tasting, since my regular Virginia does have a very light mild taste.

But yes, the silica was quite dry when I held it in the flame. It needs a far higher temp than that to burn what is essentially glass, in fibrous form.

Andria
 

Fizzpop

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For the rebuilding issue, get a jewelers lighted magnifier. Got mine for 8 bucks. I was able to rebuild the Kangers without it, but it makes it WAY easier. 1/16 drill bit, and 28 or 30ga kanthal. Doing it as a micro coil makes it super simple. You're literally just putting the drill bit into the recess, with the coil centered.. Putting the head back together, putting some tension on the leads, snipping them, and threading the bit out. Less is more on the cotton.

Seriously, once you use a micro/cotton coil in a Kanger tank, you'll really wonder what the heck Kanger is doing. Not even in the same ballpark.

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+1 for a micro-coil and cotton on a Kanger. You will be amazed how good this is. Also saves wear and tear on the rubber grommets. Just swap out the cotton every few days. The coil will last weeks, if not months.
 

ENAUD

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Around the Chinese New year I was getting a lot of bad Kanger coils for the PT II and the T3S. I could taste a burnt rubber type of flavor from them. Sure enough, upon dissecting a few there were tell tale scorch marks from the legs of the coil on the insulator grommets. (These were the whitish or greyish white insulators.) Lately I have sourced my coils from a different B&M and online, and the newer ones have a different insulator grommet, it looks clear like silicone and have noticed the absence of this rubber/burnt taste. I only use the silica wicks when traveling now, when home I re-wick them with "peaches & cream" cotton yarn boiled twice in distilled water. I change the wick with every fill, this literally takes seconds with practice, and the coils are lasting me for weeks at a time now, and the flavor of my juice comes shining through in the vapor produced by them.
 

old_geezer

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OP QUOTE:
And before everyone suggests that I build my own because it's sooo easy, I've already attempted doing this multiple times and failed miserably. Rebuilding is not for me. Sadly. :(

I don't have this problem. I probably have 20 authentic Kanger single coils for PT, PT2, EVOD, and 15 generic coils for them. I tried rebuilding them with silica, but it wasn't any better, gurgles and flooding. So I went cotton. Bingo. A nice fat cotton wick with 2 1mm silica flavor wicks and I'm golden. That fills up the wick holes so no more gurgles, and the cotton wicks fast so no dry hits. I use 5-6 wraps of 32 Kanthal on a tiny 1/16th drill bit. As fat of a cotton wick as I can get through, then the 2 1MM flavor wicks. It ends up being 1.7-1.9 ohms and works fantastic. And the good thing is I have like 30+ I haven't rebuilt yet. I won't use a stock one anymore. I rebuild the new ones, then use them.
- Joe
 
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Chelonian

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Ahh. I have tried with a lighter before and gotten bad flavors as well.
As for rebuilding, Kanger coils dont have to be rewicked.
Just soak them until you can easily pull the silica out with some tweezers.
Then roll some cotton until it fits, thread it in the coil, and trim to fit.
I have re-wicked them as well, and while its better, its not worth it IMO.

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AquaJoe

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I usually rebuild my Kanger coils, but I try and use the factory ones first. I just hate to rip out and throw away a perfectly good coil.

So heres what I do to all my factory coil heads.
1. I first rinse it under water to clean it and get the wick wet.
2. Then I pop off the chimney and remove the flavor wicks. (They are easier to remove when wet).
3. I put it on a ego and fire it up to check for hot spots or shorts.
4. I take tweezers and pinch the coils closer together. For some reason there is always a gap in the middle of the coil. Like 3 wraps, gap, 3 wraps.
5. Once the coil is glowing nicely from the center, I replace the flavor wicks and chimney.
6. Use the coil for a couple weeks, then rebuild.

I've had pretty good success from doing this to all the new heads.
 

AndriaD

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Ahh. I have tried with a lighter before and gotten bad flavors as well.
As for rebuilding, Kanger coils dont have to be rewicked.
Just soak them until you can easily pull the silica out with some tweezers.
Then roll some cotton until it fits, thread it in the coil, and trim to fit.
I have re-wicked them as well, and while its better, its not worth it IMO.

I *loathe* cotton wicks. That's why I bought Ekowool.

Andria
 

amoret

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One more time folks. I'm sure rebuilding coils is almost as wonderful as everyone says -- over, and over, and over. But not everyone wants to or can (even with magnifiers, grippers, etc.) rebuild coils.

Personally, I've never had a problem with Kanger coils. I'm a topper junkie, and I always end up back to my Protank 2 (with an Aerotank base) and my mini Protanks and Evods.
 

AndriaD

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One more time folks. I'm sure rebuilding coils is almost as wonderful as everyone says -- over, and over, and over. But not everyone wants to or can (even with magnifiers, grippers, etc.) rebuild coils.

Personally, I've never had a problem with Kanger coils. I'm a topper junkie, and I always end up back to my Protank 2 (with an Aerotank base) and my mini Protanks and Evods.

I agree with you about the "can" part, but part of that was my own fault for buying such a dark colored drillbit, the kanthal is almost invisible on it. Since I started using a 7/64, which is a lighter color, it's much easier, but I still grab the magnifying glass to be sure it's the right number of wraps, and that they're straight and not overlapping. And I got new reading glasses, one power stronger than the ones I had before, but it's a fact of life in my family, as you get older, seeing anything up close is an ever-increasing challenge.

Having done this a bit now, I can see that it could be physically quite challenging, if one has problems with their hands; sometimes when I'm holding that little drillbit tightly to try and get the wraps as close together as I can, my hand cramps, and that is not pleasant at all.

I'm just glad to know that it will be much easier with the Kayfun, which at least I'll be able to see; I wrapped a test coil the other night on a 1/8 drillbit, and it makes worlds of diff to use 30ga on a 1/8 instead of 32ga on a 5/64. Much easier to thread a wick in that, too! Again, because I can see it!!

Andria
 

Blue73

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Apr 8, 2014
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Maybe it's just me...but it seems like all my juices are having a strange taste after a few hits...a plastic-y taste. This is a new development. Doesn't matter what juice it is or where it comes from (multiple vendors). I wonder if it's just a strange batch of coils I've been using.

And before everyone suggests that I build my own because it's sooo easy, I've already attempted doing this multiple times and failed miserably. Rebuilding is not for me. Sadly. :(

Anyone else experiencing this?

BTW...I've been vaping exclusively for 8 months (no cigs!) and use Vision Spinners as well as an MVP II. Happening on ProTanks and ProTank Minis.

Thanks!

Yes, same exact experience with original Kanger coils from FastTech. I would describe it as a weird taste on exhale. Not sure what it is, but is makes me slightly nauseous. Here's what I did: I washed the coil out of the package in warm water. Let it absorb the water and let the water flow through the center post. After fully drying, I dry burned it. Seems to have taken care of the issue.

Good luck!
 

Chelonian

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Ok if you hate cotton, then pull strands of ekowool out and make a loop.
Pull strands until you have the correct thickness of loop for the coil.
Thread a loop of kanthal, or thread, through the loop.
Pass the thread/kanthal through the coil and use it to phl the ekowool through.
Trim to fit.
Truly, rewicking those heads is an excerise in torture compared to any RBA or RDA.
And I own a Penelope, and still say that.

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Been there, done that. More than once. My clumsy hands and near legal blindness just don't allow me to do this.
Sadly, I'm with you. One step from legally blind is annoying with those tiny heads, although the vids make it seem like an easy thing to do. Getting annoyed with spending nearly as much on coils as juice. They are fairly pricey in my town. Still not as expensive as analogs! And I really like my evod glass except for that.
 

Stringplucker

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I've loathed clearomizers from the very beginning almost two years ago. I thought the iClear series was pretty good, but lost faith in them completely. I would love to shoot all Kanger T3S's with a gun. And I never, ever thought I would say this, but for the first time a clearomizer line has impressed me, and those are the Aspires. I've been using a few every day for the past foUr weeks and I've yet to get a single burnt hit. And this is coming from me, someone who absolutely, without a doubt, cannot stand clearomizers. Granted, I don't push the voltage that they say they can handle (I still keep it at 8 watts/4 volts), but they've been pretty darn awesome. Closest I've come to a carto tank with it not being a carto tank.

When I was in your shop, I picked up an Aspire BDC, and loved it. It worked so well with the Mandingo from Ruthless I bought there as well. However, the replacement coils, authentic Aspire, aren't lasting as long as what came with it. I've had to turn it up a bit on my MVP V2, and have had a few bad hits, killing the overall flavor of the rest of the tank. The coils I bought were the same ohm as the old one, and came in the Aspire blister pack...so I'm truly assuming that they are authentic...I picked them up at a shop local to me here in the Pittsburgh area. My wife or I will be coming back to Dayton on the weekend of June 6th, and will come in to buy some of the coils from your shop in hopes that I can get the same great experience I had from the first tank full.

On another note, I've had great coils with good clean flavors come in for my PT3 and Mini PT3. Those have become my goto tanks for all day vaping. My wife likes the T3S, but I think the whole thing gives a plastic taste...I don't think its from the coil, but that's my opinion. However, it seems the cloud is denser with the T3S than with the PT3. I think that may be the single coil versus the double coil.

I still like the iClear16 as my back up tanks. I also prefer them over others on some flavors. They can be warmer and stronger than in the normal bottom coil clearos.

I've shelved my Aspire Nautilus for now. Too many issues with gurgling, burning, and horrid flavor on second and third fill-ups. It's a beautiful clearo, with a wonderful shape...but the QC on the coils still isn't where I think it needs to be.

In time, I'll make my own coils, and am saving all the old ones for that day. Once I have collected enough of them, I'll sit down and five it the ol' college try.
 

SchmidtyKy

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This thread was not intended to bash Kanger. I love my Kanger products and never had problems with weird tasting coils until a month or two ago.

New ones I've ordered recently seem to be much better. I'm guessing there was just a bad batch out there for a while.

And FYI I still don't rebuild. Yeah, I've watched all the videos and even had someone at a local shop take me through it. I am just not good at it. I'm glad rebuilding works out so great for many of you, but I'm just not ever going to be into it. I appreciate all the suggestions just the same.
 
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