When choosing battery for the REO, do you have to use battery with protection circuit?

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element77

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The REO 18650 (Grand) is a personal vaporizer milled out of block aluminum and is 100% mechanical, this means no wires. The benefit is a nearly indestructible unit that can take a beating, and a washing too. It carries a 6ml bottle on board (and comes with one extra bottle) that holds your e-juice, and runs on one AW IMR 18650 3.7 volt battery.

Only use Aw imr batteries in my mods. Using improper batteries can damage your mod even worse cause harm to you



All this info copied directly from REOSmods.com
 

nerak

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I think other e cig devices have protection circuit inside the electronics for safety. Since the REO is all mechanical, do you have to use a battery that comes with protection?

Never use unprotected rechargeable LI-ION batteries in any APV.

Use safer-chemistry batteries such as Li-Mn or protected Li-ion.

The AW IMR are Li-Mn rechargeable made with safer-chemistry. They are not protected but the safer-chemistry will discharge or vent instead of exploding.

A great read:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html
 

supertrunker

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Protected batteries are longer than the safer chemistry ones, because that protection circuit takes up room. They will crush your spring too much.

In addition they cannot typically match the high drain abilities of IMRs (even though their quoted capacity - 3400mAh say, looks enticing) and that means they are not safe for sub-Ω use.

T
 

MamaTried

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]Protected batteries are longer than the safer chemistry ones, because that protection circuit takes up room. They will crush your spring too much[/B].

In addition they cannot typically match the high drain abilities of IMRs (even though their quoted capacity - 3400mAh say, looks enticing) and that means they are not safe for sub-Ω use.

T

yup. i screwed up and put a protected orby in one of my og woodvils. and now, none of my "real" batteries will make contact.


not that it matters much, but is there a way to tell the difference between a collapsed spring due to a short, and a compressed spring due to abject user stupidity?
 
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Funk Dracula

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not that it matters much, but is there a way to tell the difference between a collapsed coil due to a short, and a compressed spring due to abject user stupidity?

I could be remembering this wrong; but when a drip tip shorted my Reo and collapsed the spring, I think I remember it being slightly "blue/black" tinged in areas. Almost like torched steel.

Again, I could be thinking of something else... pff..
 

MamaTried

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I could be remembering this wrong; but when a drip tip shorted my Reo and collapsed the spring, I think I remember it being slightly "blue/black" tinged in areas. Almost like torched steel.

Again, I could be thinking of something else... pff..



thanks, Funk. i'll look for that the next time i can get my old man eyes to focus :)
 

nerak

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I could be remembering this wrong; but when a drip tip shorted my Reo and collapsed the spring, I think I remember it being slightly "blue/black" tinged in areas. Almost like torched steel.

Again, I could be thinking of something else... pff..

You are correct! I mentioned to Dennis before that a color change is what I had noticed after a collapse.

Also told him that the best thing to do is just replace it if he is not sure.
 

MamaTried

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You are correct! I mentioned to Dennis before that a color change is what I had noticed after a collapse.

Also told him that the best thing to do is just replace it if he is not sure.

that was more than an hour ago, and you already know about my memory problems, Bill...
:)
 
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