Where to Start?

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Cullin Kin

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So... I bought a new mod, and hopefully my last... It's the Snow Wolf 200W. Yes, I know I know, it has 200W... What am I going to do with 200W?! The answer is nothing. I will likely never even break 100W. I bought it for a few reasons: 1) Dual 18650 2) Form Factor (A little bigger than an istick 50W) 3) New Temp Control Chip up to 70W (The same that's being utilized in the new Sig 75W) 4) Ease of use 5) Collaboration between sigelei and P4Y = Greenleaf.

Nonetheless, this thread isn't about why I bought that mod... It's about where to start with Temp Control.

What wire should I get?
Is there some that's easier to work with than others?
Cotton's combustion point is 410ºF right?
So I should stay below that temperature right?
Any information that will make the transition to temp control seamless?

Thanks for any input! I cannot wait for this new mod and playing with temperature control.

Giggity,
Cullin Kin
 

Cullin Kin

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Well anything other than nickel wire will require you change the temperature that you set your device to since nickel's non-resistance factor is hardcoded. Check out this article for more understanding.

Thanks for the reply. I think I will be sticking to Nickel to start, especially since it doesn't have a titanium auto-detect feature.

Should I go with Ni200? What gauge?
 

Cullin Kin

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Yes, Ni200 is what most people are using.
Since nickel has much less resistance than kanthal and nichrome, you end up using higher gauge wire and/or more wraps. Most people start with 30 awg but I have no idea what resistance you're looking for.

I have no idea what resistance I'm looking for either lol. What resistance should I be aiming for with TC? I usually build at 0.7Ω-1.0Ω on my 50W mod but I know Ni200 is low resistance wire.

Several shops around here have 28 gauge Ni200 so that's likely what I will get.
 

chuckinclouds88

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I have no idea what resistance I'm looking for either lol. What resistance should I be aiming for with TC? I usually build at 0.7Ω-1.0Ω on my 50W mod but I know Ni200 is low resistance wire.

Several shops around here have 28 gauge Ni200 so that's likely what I will get.
On the iPV4, I know, the ideal settings for TC are .05Ω-.1Ω. I'd expect it to be somewhat similar on the Snow Wolf. I wouldn't expect you to go too much over .1Ω for TC.
 

edyle

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So... I bought a new mod, and hopefully my last... It's the Snow Wolf 200W. Yes, I know I know, it has 200W... What am I going to do with 200W?! The answer is nothing. I will likely never even break 100W. I bought it for a few reasons: 1) Dual 18650 2) Form Factor (A little bigger than an iStick 50W) 3) New Temp Control Chip up to 70W (The same that's being utilized in the new Sig 75W) 4) Ease of use 5) Collaboration between Sigelei and P4Y = Greenleaf.

Nonetheless, this thread isn't about why I bought that mod... It's about where to start with Temp Control.

What wire should I get?
Is there some that's easier to work with than others?
Cotton's combustion point is 410ºF right?
So I should stay below that temperature right?
Any information that will make the transition to temp control seamless?

Thanks for any input! I cannot wait for this new mod and playing with temperature control.

Giggity,
Cullin Kin


1: 200 Watts.
Thicker wire needs higher power. If you don't use wire that's needs that amount of power, then no, you won't need that much power.

2: dual 18650
2 batteries is better than one if you want high power.

3: "P4& = Greenleaf" ?
oh are you saying sigelei and p4y collaborated and formed something called Greenleaf?

4: What wire to get.
I don't think you have a choice with the snowwolf; don't you have to get nickel for the temperature control to work? Titanium seems to be close enough too.
As for what gauge, if you get a roll of thin wire, you can always twist it to simulate thicker wire.

5: 410F
As with vv and vw; start low and move up gradually.

disclaimer: I do not have any temp control mods.
 

Cullin Kin

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On the iPV4, I know, the ideal settings for TC are .05Ω-.1Ω. I'd expect it to be somewhat similar on the Snow Wolf. I wouldn't expect you to go too much over .1Ω for TC.

Thank you!! I was playing on Steam Engine and saw that I would need 21 wraps of 28g Ni200 to even hit 0.3Ω lol. I will aim for that range, maybe 0.15Ω.

1: 200 Watts.
Thicker wire needs higher power. If you don't use wire that's needs that amount of power, then no, you won't need that much power.

2: dual 18650
2 batteries is better than one if you want high power.

3: "P4& = Greenleaf" ?
oh are you saying sigelei and p4y collaborated and formed something called Greenleaf?

4: What wire to get.
I don't think you have a choice with the snowwolf; don't you have to get nickel for the temperature control to work? Titanium seems to be close enough too.
As for what gauge, if you get a roll of thin wire, you can always twist it to simulate thicker wire.

5: 410F
As with vv and vw; start low and move up gradually.

disclaimer: I do not have any temp control mods.

lol I meant dual 18650 in terms of battery life. Yeah, Sig and P4Y teamed up to form Greenleaf I believe.

As for the type of wire, the Snow Wolf doesn't have a titanium setting so I didn't even know if it could be used or not.
 

edyle

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Thank you!! I was playing on Steam Engine and saw that I would need 21 wraps of 28g Ni200 to even hit 0.3Ω lol. I will aim for that range, maybe 0.15Ω.



lol I meant dual 18650 in terms of battery life. Yeah, Sig and P4Y teamed up to form Greenleaf I believe.

As for the type of wire, the Snow Wolf doesn't have a titanium setting so I didn't even know if it could be used or not.

Yes most tc products do not have a titanium setting but people here on ecf have used titanium. The numbers degrees fareinhiet will not be accurate, but some people find it easier to use. the numbers are just numbers after all, and what you want is to find the sweet spot and once you find that you know what number to set at for your setup
 

yo han

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the numbers are just numbers after all, and what you want is to find the sweet spot and once you find that you know what number to set at for your setup
Exactly. I have no clue about what temperature something is in Fahrenheit since I only know Celcius. They might as well have used a 1 to 500 scale since all people do is find the sweet spot and use that. Who cares what the actual temperature is? As long as it doesn't give you dry hits or burn cotton then it's fine.
 

Nibiru2012

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I would recommend using 26ga. Ni200 wire, it gives a stiffer coil which makes it more durable and easier to slide the cotton wick into.
Your temperature controlled coils should have a resistance of around 0.08 - 0.10 - 0.12 ohms and no greater. TC vaping requires very low resistance coils.
I use a 3.5mm mandrel with my Duro coiler jig and it takes about a 6/7 wrap to reach a 0.08 ohm resistance.
In my iPV4 MOD I set it at about 20 Joules and 420F temperature setting.
Lot of warm flavorful vape.
The 3.5mm ID on the coil allows the juice to flow with issues and if you use thicker juices with a higher vegetable glycerin ratio it won't have any feed issues.

Smaller ID coils many time will not feed the juice efficiently. I used to wrap small coils in my Kanthal days and always got burnt or dry hits.
Then I went to 3.0mm and 3.5mm coils with Kanthal, no more dry or burnt hits. These coils fit just fine in my Kayfun V4 RTA too.
 
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Nomoreash

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I'd also recommend 28ga or larger if you can. N200 is very soft in comparison. I've tried 30ga and hated working with it, too soft and lost it's shape if I looked at it funny.

Bigger diameter coils help make the extra length needed manageable. I usually do a 3.0 diameter or larger depending on the atty and aim for .1 or slightly higher which is 8 or 9 wraps.
 
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Cullin Kin

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I would recommend using 26ga. Ni200 wire, it gives a stiffer coil which makes it more durable and easier to slide the cotton wick into.
Your temperature controlled coils should have a resistance of around 0.08 - 0.10 - 0.12 ohms and no greater. TC vaping requires very low resistance coils.
I use a 3.5mm mandrel with my Duro coiler jig and it takes about a 6/7 wrap to reach a 0.08 ohm resistance.
In my iPV4 MOD I set it at about 20 Joules and 420F temperature setting.
Lot of warm flavorful vape.
The 3.5mm ID on the coil allows the juice to flow with issues and if you use thicker juices with a higher vegetable glycerin ratio it won't have any feed issues.

Smaller ID coils many time will not feed the juice efficiently. I used to wrap small coils in my Kanthal days and always got burnt or dry hits.
Then I went to 3.0mm and 3.5mm coils with Kanthal, no more dry or burnt hits. These coils fit just fine in my Kayfun V4 RTA too.

I'd also recommend 28ga or larger if you can. N200 is very soft in comparison. I've tried 30ga and hated working with it, too soft and lost it's shape if I looked at it funny.

Bigger diameter coils help make the extra length needed manageable. I usually do a 3.0 diameter or larger depending on the atty and aim for .1 or slightly higher which is 8 or 9 wraps.

Thank you both! I really appreciate the information. That's exactly what I was looking for. Now, one last question... I'm looking to buy Ni200 wire on Lightning Vapes and they have two options: Annealed or Tempered... Which one?

Both the annealed and tempered options have 28, 30, and 32g available. Using my google-fu I found that both processes are heat treatments of the wire. Both tend to increase ductility, but tempering seems to decrease strength. Also, tempered is way more expensive...

Based on the reviews it seems that tempered is a lot easier to work with and feels more like kanthal or nichrome when wrapping. It's nearly double the price though.
 
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Nomoreash

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I've never used tempered, it wasn't available when I ordered my 100ft role that will probably last the rest of my life. From what I've seen tempered is more rigid and a bit springy, more like working with kanthal. Annealed is softer, not as rigid with no spring action at all. I wouldn't worry about the decreased strength info to much, we're just wrapping a wick.

If I were ordering now at 28ga or larger I'd probably go tempered, should be thick enough to help keep the spring under control. Here's a vid that compares both in 28ga, should help you decide.

 

Nibiru2012

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Personally I don't use tempered, never will; have no need to since I use exclusively 26ga. nickel wire.
Using my Kuro Coiler, actually it's Universal Tools 6 in 1 Coil Jig :rolleyes:... I having ADD moments. LOL! (I called it a "Duro Coiler in an earlier post. :oops:)
I get tight even wound coils that keep their shape and are easily stretched to space the coil windings.

Why pay more for something that's not necessary. A 100' roll of Tempered 26ga. Ni200 is $22.00 OUCH! While a 100' roll of annealed is $11.00
Unless one needs to go to the higher gauges such as 28 - 30 - 32 gauge, I really don't see the need IMHO.
Must be because of the RDA or RTA limiting the size of the coil itself.

I have used 3.5mm ID coils in my trusted Kayfun V4 replicas by Tobeco, the Lemo 2 by Eleaf, and a couple of drippers with no issues at all.
Even with the Kanger Subtank there should be no sizing issue.
Now with the Aspire Atlantis I can see where coil size will be an issue though.

For n00bs in the temperature controlled arena, I highly recommend using the coil wrapping sub-menu at: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Just be sure to select the proper wire type in the first under "Material and profile" and then select the rest of the parameters. Very easy to use.
 
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