Which charger now?

[OlderNDirt]

Sorry for another thread on which charger to buy, but this one comes with additional consideration.

My first charger was a Nitecore I4. It did its job, but the slides just seemed too rough, not smooth. So I "upgraded" to an xtar VP4. In spite of a couple minor inconveniences, I really liked it and the nice, smooth sleds. But just over a year's use, an outer slide broke. I opened it up and found that a tiny plastic post that the spring loops over had broken off rendering the bay useless. Yes, I still have 3 bays available, but am limited to .5 amp charging for more then 1 battery at a time and am up the creek to charge my 4 married batteries.

So I need to buy another charger and am wondering. Was this just a freak occurrence that could happen with any brand in this, or any price range?

Are there any "good" 4 bay chargers that charge at 1 amp in all 4 bays? I was looking at the Opus BT-C3100, but don't want to have to take a college course to learn how to operate it, and how does it compare to the VP4?

 

[DaveP]

Efest LUC 4 does what you want. I've had mine several years with no problems and no broken parts. It does all four bays at 1A charge rate and the slides move pretty easily once you break them in. The slide springs are stronger than some chargers, but that's good for positive contact. Once you develop the technique you can insert a battery and use it to push the slides back at the same time. A little shot of silicone spray works well to smooth the slides out when new. I've never been frustrated by the LUC 4. It just works well and lasts.

The only reason my Xtar VC4 gets so much use is that I like the pretty display with its white on blue screen that shows current charge voltage, charging rate, and a MAH count as charging progresses. Most of my mods these days use single and dual batteries. When I need to charge 3 or 4 at a time in a hurry I plug up the LUC 4.

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

+1 on LUC chargers. The sleds are silky smooth. I usually use the 0.5 amp setting because my batteries are in a deep rotation and I'm rarely in a hurry. But the 1.0 amp setting across all bays is nice to have.

 

[Spey]

Have had LUC 2-bay about 3 years and LUC 6-bay about 1.5 years. Both stellar performance, each came with 115v plug and 12v CLA (Cig. Lighter Adapter) auto plug, provide multiple charge output levels (up to 2a), provide USB out option for one bay to say charge a cel-phone or internal battery mod, and as Coastal Cowboy stated the sled slides are pretty nice. They (LUC 2 & 6) live side x side on desktop & keep multiple mod's worth of batteries for two of us at the ready, LUC 2-bay goes to car where 12v CLA lives as needed.

Previously had NiteCore i2 (poor sled slides, but like the mAh charge indications). Sold luckily before issue with sled slide terminals became more of issue.

Have had BT-3100 v2.2 ordered from two sellers for over a month (PayPal claims filed yesterday). Will be ordering elsewhere once I get refunds (hoping one charger shows up in mean time).

I would not hesitate to recommend eFest LUC 2/4/6 bay to anyone that wants simple, clean, performance based charger.

 

[SteveS45]

JB Weld or a good epoxy will fix that broken plastic and with enough build up will be stronger than it ever was.

 

[Steamer861]

 

[OlderNDirt]

JB Weld or a good epoxy will fix that broken plastic and with enough build up will be stronger than it ever was.

The nib that broke off is so tiny and can't build it up cause the loop on the spring has to fit over it. And there is just little to nothing else there to hook it on. But thanks!

@Steamer861 hadn't seen that model, but a quick check showed pricing at $50+. Not sure I want to spend even more then the VP4 if any could have such a problem. But will keep it in mind. Thanks!

 

[SteveS45]

I repaired the pins on a glove compartment door in a vehicle I had and JB Steel Weld Epoxy is some amazing stuff so never say never. Build it up let it dry and machine it or file it down.

 

[Steamer861]

@Steamer861 hadn't seen that model, but a quick check showed pricing at $50+. Not sure I want to spend even more then the VP4 if any could have such a problem. But will keep it in mind. Thanks!

I got one I know it's a bit pricy! But it's quite a step up from my old D4
Every thing fits nice 26650,20700, the springs are real smooth & it's fast!

 

[bombastinator]

Sorry for another thread on which charger to buy, but this one comes with additional consideration.

My first charger was a Nitecore I4. It did its job, but the slides just seemed too rough, not smooth. So I "upgraded" to an Xtar VP4. In spite of a couple minor inconveniences, I really liked it and the nice, smooth sleds. But just over a year's use, an outer slide broke. I opened it up and found that a tiny plastic post that the spring loops over had broken off rendering the bay useless. Yes, I still have 3 bays available, but am limited to .5 amp charging for more then 1 battery at a time and am up the creek to charge my 4 married batteries.

So I need to buy another charger and am wondering. Was this just a freak occurrence that could happen with any brand in this, or any price range?

Are there any "good" 4 bay chargers that charge at 1 amp in all 4 bays? I was looking at the Opus BT-C3100, but don't want to have to take a college course to learn how to operate it, and how does it compare to the VP4?

if it was me i'd just tap in a small screw where the post was, reattach the spring, and keep going. not everyone is a DIY type though, or even has the time to mess with such things.
designed in fatigue of stupid little plastic parts is a given in modern society. I cannot guarantee a different charger would perform any better.

 

[Spey]

if it was me i'd just tap in a small screw where the post was, reattach the spring, and keep going.

Hmmm ..., that's exactly what I was thinking. If the spring needs to be insulated electrically) many way to accomplish that.

Some would say "cobbled together" arg !! Those would not know the meaning and significance the Cobbler has brought to mankind ;-)

 

[OlderNDirt]

Just to show how tiny of a broken piece or nib I have to work with:

That tiny nib or post is directly under the thin plastic bottom of the sled, so a screw could not protrude into the bay. I did think about a screw with the head of the screw in the bay, but the screw would have to be so tiny for both the limited space, and for the spring to fit around. I just don't think that fine of work is within my abilities.

So far, it would seem having this happen is a rarity. If so, I'll feel better taking a chance on a new charger.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[Spey]

I would think a "3-bay charger" would have some value (to say a 3 battery mod person - think rx200 example). So, possible sellable or gift-able.

"Tiny screw" hmmm ..., I suppose that's relative to what any one person's experience. At first thought (before your nice picture), I was thinking a 2-56 (something I use commonly - slightly larger than 1/16" diameter). This is typically the smallest sized drill bit in a set (before a different indexing measure applies). So, drill 1/16" hole (index #50) then oversized screw 2-56 size will cut threads into soft plastic as threads into place. I would not think small head size of a 2-56 would impede battery placement into sled tray. My local hardware store sells screws in this size range in various lengths. Screw & drill size index charts below for reference.

I capped a couple pic's (below) from inside a 6-bay Xtar showing the spring nibs (assume yours is same or similar).

Personally, I would 1st attempt using a cyanurate glue preceded with a plastic primer (can be purchased as a pair - cyanurate glue example is the original SuperGlue from the 70's - primer gives the glue a better Bond - accelerants can be used for faster cure) to reattach that spring peg. Look for cyanurate glue/primer/accelerant under Permatex brand or ... (SuperGlue is just a brand name. Then if the fails, could still drill & insert screw option. After seeing inside, would say no need

Alternately, those 4 reinforcements at base of peg look like would be good area to apply a build-up of epoxy. In combination with glueing the peg first, or by itself with a build-up at base.

Couple pic's of a 6-bay Xtar battery spring pins attached.

Knowing one's capabilities is a good thing, exploring and expanding capabilities is rewarding.

Hopefully something here helpful.

 

[OlderNDirt]

Thanks, @Spey . I greatly appreciate you taking the time and making the effort to help me out. Unfortunately, given my advanced age, failing eyesight, and essential tremors, there are limitations to my capabilities. In spite of those limitations, I might try the screw repair........unless I decide "screw that!" I did e-mail Xtar, so will see if I get any response from that before pressing on.

I guess the good thing is, with all the great advice for having back-ups for back-ups, I got the VP4 so I would have the i4 as my back-up charger just in case. I really never thought it would come into play, but lesson learned!

 

[Spey]

OlderNDirt,

Had not paid attention to your user name ... ;-) I am only at the point of 1.0 readers, but get where ya coming from.

In the event Xtar gives you the brush off (and considering I have never received a reply from a vape related company to date), and you feel getting that 4th bay operational of importance ...

I would volunteer repair work on that charger for you.

I do a fair amount of custom work on pocket knives, guns, scopes, etc., etc. with small fasteners. I'd ask only that you cover actual out of pocket costs (shipping, etc.), labor on me for the privilege of helping out another. GravityRoller on Instagram & YouTube for a little background.

Regards,

 

[OlderNDirt]

OlderNDirt,

Had not paid attention to your user name ... ;-) I am only at the point of 1.0 readers, but get where ya coming from.

In the event Xtar gives you the brush off (and considering I have never received a reply from a vape related company to date), and you feel getting that 4th bay operational of importance ...

I would volunteer repair work on that charger for you.

I do a fair amount of custom work on pocket knives, guns, scopes, etc., etc. with small fasteners. I'd ask only that you cover actual out of pocket costs (shipping, etc.), labor on me for the privilege of helping out another. GravityRoller on Instagram & YouTube for a little background.

Regards,

Thank you for that kind a generous offer! Since I am not in an immediate bind for charging, I'll give it a little time and see if I hear from Xtar and go from there. And I will check out your YouTube!

 

[Spey]

BTW, re your comments on the BT-3100

I think one of the significant features is the ability to automatically and repeatably discharge batteries to a specified repeatable capacity, then recharge them and provide the user data as to the actual capacity of the battery. (I would write this in all new batteries for future monitoring)

This (provided you have data on new performance of battery being tested) allows user to monitor battery wear over time.

This is the principal feature drawing me to purchase this model.

There are a number of versions of this charger. Most recent update (v3.x), I believe included a change to the low voltage limit. Previous versions I believe also affected the type of charging (pulse vs. continuous I think).

Also, the Opus models include a small temp. controlled fan for cooling. These fans (from what I've read) are succeptable to going bad over time, but are very inexpensive component to replace (less than $2.00). Some users report the fan to be loud (like in nighttime bedroom environment, etc.), and offensive to some.

From what I have reviewed, the user interface control is very easy to use, but no where near as simple as the eFest LUC models I referenced above. Probably somewhere in-between your would be your Xtar (between Opus & LUC - the Opus interface complexity you referenced).

So unless discharge and recharge mAh monitoring is needed/wanted I would recommend alternate (those LUC models in my previous post).

 

[OlderNDirt]

Just got home after our monthly trip to the city and a visit to my vape shop. Got a decent deal on the LUC V6, so went with that. Didn't expect to ever buy an Efest, but looks good to me and will see how it goes.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Spey]

My LUC-6 has been a great charger. Think you will like its simplicity. Check the story-board on the outside of the box (kinda fun).

Only two things that are not readily apparent that could be considered a surprise.

1) Charging:
Output Current – .68A x 6 channels or 2A x 2 channels
The button switch on right changes between all 6 bays at 0.68a/bay and 2.0a/bay for middle two.
So, there's no 1.0a/bay(s) like the LUC-4. I was slightly disappointed could not do 4-6 batt's at 1.0a. Minor inconvenience, just wish I'd READ the spec's instead of just taking the vape shops word that it would do 4 batt's at 1.0a just like the LUC-4 & LUC-2. I have learned to load pairs of batteries in the outer four bays, occasionally using the two inner bays only when I need quick 2.0a charging. Also, tend to load my single tube mech batt's to the inner bays (kinda my way if keeping married bat. pairs separate from my singles to make sure they charge as pairs together always at same rate).

2) When using USB out, only one bay (one battery) is used. This is the same for each of my LUC's. I would have much preferred two battery bays to be used in a balanced discharge. Anytime I want to use this feature to charge another device (phone, mod., etc.) need to remember to use one of my un-married batteries. When using USB out, charging is stopped. So, can not simultaneously USB charge something while other bat's charge.

 

[OlderNDirt]

My LUC-6 has been a great charger. Think you will like its simplicity. Check the story-board on the outside of the box (kinda fun).

Only two things that are not readily apparent that could be considered a surprise.

1) Charging:
Output Current – .68A x 6 channels or 2A x 2 channels
The button switch on right changes between all 6 bays at 0.68a/bay and 2.0a/bay for middle two.
So, there's no 1.0a/bay(s) like the LUC-4. I was slightly disappointed could not do 4-6 batt's at 1.0a. Minor inconvenience, just wish I'd READ the spec's instead of just taking the vape shops word that it would do 4 batt's at 1.0a just like the LUC-4 & LUC-2. I have learned to load pairs of batteries in the outer four bays, occasionally using the two inner bays only when I need quick 2.0a charging. Also, tend to load my single tube mech batt's to the inner bays (kinda my way if keeping married bat. pairs separate from my singles to make sure they charge as pairs together always at same rate).

2) When using USB out, only one bay (one battery) is used. This is the same for each of my LUC's. I would have much preferred two battery bays to be used in a balanced discharge. Anytime I want to use this feature to charge another device (phone, mod., etc.) need to remember to use one of my un-married batteries. When using USB out, charging is stopped. So, can not simultaneously USB charge something while other bat's charge.

On charging, I got the same story about 1.0a charging. A bit disappointed, but not a deal breaker for me anyway. I've got enough batteries I don't worry too much about running out. Also not sure if I will use the 2.0a charge much since I always have a charged married pair ready to go. My main gain was charging my 4 married bats at a "faster" .68a over the .50 I had before. Yippie!

When they said the way the USB worked, I figured I wouldn't ever use it since I already have 2 in wall warts right there for my phone, tablet, and Stick V8.

So, why did I buy the LUC V6? I needed to replace the Xtar VP4, 6 bays, and the price was OK. And being retired, time is not a major factor! And a big Yippie! for that!