When I use claptons or fused claptons I like nichrome wire cause kanthal claptons heat up to slow. Straight wire I use kanthal. Usually 10 wraps around a 3mm using 24 gauge. Which wire do u prefer kanthal or nichrome? Or any other for that matter.
Which wire
- Thread starter Ephraim Cooper
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Is it straight wire? Where do u get it? What kind of vapor and flaovor do u get?
What d oes it ohm out at? I thought it was only for temp control. I seen some claptons online made out of it. Is it safe for my Paranormal mod?
Yes, it's safe on the paranormal. If you're in the US you can get straight SS wire from Temco. About $5 with free shipping. If you want SS Clapton go to Advanced vape Supply. Really good pre-made fancy coils. Sale is now on 30%off with code LABOR30.
As to resistance you'll have to use steam engine to see what your build will come in at.
As to resistance you'll have to use steam engine to see what your build will come in at.
What build do u use straight or clapton? What's urs ohm out at?
My builds vary so I have no answer to that other than one tank might be at 0.5 ohm with a whatever coil and another might have a dual build at 0.13 ohm.
I choose the wire that will give me the numbers I want.... ohm temp surface area and mass....
I use SS if for TC.. otherwise anything goes. ...
IN a taste contest I might do a Nichrome build. Because it just seems to make the best flavor. It just not always the best for the build.
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I don't use premade clapton or fused clapton wire, and I don't do simple round wire builds either. Instead, I have been building my own fancy coils since 4 weeks after I started vaping. Most of the time it will be all Nichrome 80 for me, but only premium quality round wire and ribbon wire both of which have been smelted by Sandvik in Sweden (the same company that also owns the Kanthal name/brand) and that you can buy from reputable brands like Twisted Messes or Wireworks.eu and a few other popular brands the majority of which tend to use poor spooling techniques and/or inferior quality wire that they only claim is the real deal when the reality is that it really isn't, or else they use a bit of a lottery system and so you can't always predict what you'll get. Unlike the 2 aforementioned top brands, they only lead to frustrations so as a result from that, often times you'll find that it is the cheaper ones that factually are overpriced.
That said, Nichrome 80 is more durable and heats up faster than SS316L, but some people are allergic to nickel so they can't use Nichrome, and/or they find that SS316L gives a terrible metallic taste so it isn't all about personal preferences either because I seriously can't imagine any sane person would prefer allergic reactions or terrible metallic tastes. Trial and error yields the best results in this regard. On some occasions I like to throw a bit of Kanthal into the mix. Kanthal does heat up the slowest of all three of these metal types. But if you use it sparingly (i.e., by choosing the number of Kanthal wires and the thicknesses of the wires wisely) in cohort with Nichrome 80 it can still very much nevertheless make for some exceptionally tasty coil creations. So much so, doing this is why SS316L is pretty much useless to me, as the durability of SS316L downright sucks in comparison, while, in addition, it adds no real benefit to me over Nichrome 80 either in terms of flavor or in terms of how the vape feels.
That said, Nichrome 80 is more durable and heats up faster than SS316L, but some people are allergic to nickel so they can't use Nichrome, and/or they find that SS316L gives a terrible metallic taste so it isn't all about personal preferences either because I seriously can't imagine any sane person would prefer allergic reactions or terrible metallic tastes. Trial and error yields the best results in this regard. On some occasions I like to throw a bit of Kanthal into the mix. Kanthal does heat up the slowest of all three of these metal types. But if you use it sparingly (i.e., by choosing the number of Kanthal wires and the thicknesses of the wires wisely) in cohort with Nichrome 80 it can still very much nevertheless make for some exceptionally tasty coil creations. So much so, doing this is why SS316L is pretty much useless to me, as the durability of SS316L downright sucks in comparison, while, in addition, it adds no real benefit to me over Nichrome 80 either in terms of flavor or in terms of how the vape feels.
If your coil heats too slowly your wire gauge is too heavy for your vape wattage.
Go here and play with the parameters to find the build that suits your resistance. SS316L can be used with wattage and TC modes. It's a wire that varies resistance with heat and that's what make TC mode work. You can use the same coil in both modes.
Wire gauge determines heat flux for a given coil diameter and number of wraps. You might want to try a lower gauge (lower is heavier). If you are using 28ga you might try 26ga or 24ga. Steam engine gives you a color code in the right bottom corner. Green is good and yellow and orange indicate higher temps and require more power to heat. The same box in Steam Engine tells you the wattage that the coil will work best at.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
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This is because each device is different and can require different builds to make it work at it's best. But i already explained this fairly well in your last thread, which I believe was named Ohms.
I use nichrome for most of my builds, once in a while I'll do a kanthal build. I would use SS too, but I am one of those odd people where it gives me weird metal tastes. My wife seemed to like SS, but she doesn't build coils so she uses my nichrome coils too.
Just try different wires and see which one works for you the best, nobody can tell you what you will experience since all of our tastes are different.
I personally life nichrome fused clapton wire. Thats all I use.
I use that most of the time too, but I found some atomizers will not have enough airflow to cool a Clapton wire down effectively, making it either taste off, pop and spit, or actually burn wicks quickly, which is why some other builds are needed depending on the equipment used.
The Layercake has a restricted airfow and they work perfect in that. Right on the verge of being to restricted but I think its perfect. Anything more restricted then it and I wudnt use it. I like restricted for thick clouds but I dont like ridiculously restricted.
I get about 20% better flavor from alien coils when compared to fused clapton coils, and, they also vape differently so the amount of restriction required to bring out the best from them is different also, at least for me.
Making your own fused clapton wire all the way from scratch instead of just wrapping premade fused clapton wire around a screwdriver or coil tool is the first step (despite I skipped the first 5 or so steps because I jumped straight into making my own staple staggered fused clapton coils only 4 weeks after I started vaping, but anyway...). Even though a lot of people don't have the time it takes or don't want to spend the time and effort on advanced coil building, personally I'll just keep repeating I think it's worth it, like a broken record if that's what I have to do to convert someone.
On a regulated mod I'd lean more towards 28g for the core wires and 36g for the wrap wire. All Nichrome 80 of course.My fused claptons r 28×2+38 nichrome. Wotofo.com is the only place u can get them. I like them cause they ohm out high at .42. Thats an 8 wrap around a 3mm. Aliens ohm to low dont they?I get about 20% better flavor from alien coils when compared to fused clapton coils, and, they also vape differently so the amount of restriction required to bring out the best from them is different also, at least for me.
Making your own fused clapton wire all the way from scratch instead of just wrapping premade fused clapton wire around a screwdriver or coil tool is the first step (despite I skipped the first 5 or so steps because I jumped straight into making my own staple staggered fused clapton coils only 4 weeks after I started vaping, but anyway...). Even though a lot of people don't have the time it takes or don't want to spend the time and effort on advanced coil building, personally I'll just keep repeating I think it's worth it, like a broken record if that's what I have to do to convert someone.
I was talking about what I'd lean towards if starting to learn how to make your own. Nothing's wrong with the Wotofo wire I guess, but IMO the experience you gain from learning to make this kind of stuff yourself can introduce you to a whole world of new vaping experiences waiting for you to discover.
On a regulated mod you don't have to worry about the ohms too much. (One less reason to worry = one more reason to start learning to build your own coils.) As long as the mod you're using can cope with the ohms number, both in terms of whether the mod will be capable to fire the coils and in terms of whether the mod will fire them at the number of watts that you want, you should be good. Most regulated mods can't fire the coils if the ohms are below .1 so that's mainly the reasoning behind "not building too low" on a regulated mod, but DNA mods such as your Paranormal can fire coil builds below .1 despite the power output will be limited if you go too far below (i.e. below .07 if I remember it right), and will be more limited the farther you go below that. Similarly, if you build too high you will start running into limitations of the power output also, as there's only so much a regulated mod can do to boost the voltage up. It depends on the tech that's built into the mod, really. A typical pair of remarkable performing Nichrome 80 alien coils to be used specifically on a regulated mod in a dual coil setup can be made to ohm out to pretty much any number you want it to ohm out to, but I'd say anywhere between .2 and maybe about .31 is very reasonable and considered pretty common. Well actually it depends on who you ask, but personally that's what I think.
I recently switched to SS 316L after using Kanthal for 3 months. I will stick to SS, like the taste and vapour quality. Kanthal Vs SS 316L MTL Build - my observations
Not really, only coil size does.
If you keep the diameter and length of the coil exactly the same; it does not matter which gauge you use; the coil will always have the same (or very close to it) heat flux.
Easy example would be, lets say 0,25 mm vs 0,5 mm. You wrap a contact coil of the same size with both wires. You´ll need exactly double the wraps from the 0,25mm wire compared to the 0,5mm wire to achieve this.
Heat flux is calculated by total surface area. Surface area of the total coil wire is calculated by π * wire diameter * lengths of wire. π will, of course, always stay the same.
So lets say you use 20cm of the 0,25mm wire and 10cm of the 0,5mm; you´ll get π * 0,25 * 20 vs π * 0,5 * 10.
Its the same.
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