Why am I disappointed with my Provari
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Thank you Dave.
My thread was not intended to start a arguement or similar.
It was purely for advise as I'm a newbie.
I really appreciate everyone's input, personally I don't think my provari is faulty, it does work flawlessly and battery life is amazing considering I'm using 18350 & 18490.
I was on the assumption that my original setup on the vamo was excellent but on a provari it would be WOW. Clearly a big no no.
After reading everyone's comments, the protanks seem to be acceptable on a provari but with other makes of tanks/Atties it will shine through.
It just seems that on my vamo everything seemed to work very well, but a high end provari seems a little bit sensitive to what you put on top, which to me seems a bit of a shame as you pay a hefty premium for a product, and have to spend even more on other bits to enjoy its potential.
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They make both claims.
From the Provape.com FAQ said:
From the Provape.com FAQ said:
I just chose the one I found the most sober. Maybe I should have mentioned that, but I didn't think it was neccessary at the time.
Hi.
It was not my hypothesis, it was my (apparently failed) attempt at explaining how regulated devices like the Provari work.
And I never claimed that higher ohms should drain the battery faster. Maybe you should re-read my post.
I am relatively new with vaping, but I am not new with electronics.
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Hi.
It was not my hypothesis, it was my (apparently failed) attempt at explaining how regulated devices like the Provari work.
And I never claimed that higher ohms should drain the battery faster. Maybe you should re-read my post.
I am relatively new with vaping, but I am not new with electronics.
I understood your post just fine. You said the main factor in determining drain on the battery is wattage and thats misleading in this case.
There arent many of us veterans around anymore but I assure you they would verify what Im telling you right now.
I didnt want to step up to 3.0hms.I actually prefer a cooler vape but its a tradeoff for battery life when youre a chain vaper and go through 6-12 ml a day.
Im not going to continue to argue about this and hijack the OPs thread.
I want to help him solve the issue he's having because something in the voltages and resistances he mentioned isnt adding up.
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How is it misleading?
I can see that the phrasing "drain on the battery" can be ambiguous, because it can be interpreted to mean "drain current", which is not what I meant. I meant "drain wattage", which can be converted to "drain current" if you know - and care - about the battery voltage at any given moment.
I chose not to go inte details about battery voltage in my explanation, because that would make the explanation longer and even more hard to follow. The term "drain" is not a rigidly defined unit in electronics, so it should not be automatically assumed to mean one thing or another without taking the context into consideration. And the context in this case was me talking about wattage.
I look forward to having my understanding of the workings of voltage regulating circuits corrected.zapped said:
Fair enough. I hope someone can explain these things to me via a private message some time then, so I won't have to forever remain in the dark.zapped said:
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No juice attachment is going to be perfect for every vaper. They all wick a little differently and vape a little differently. Some folks prefer clearomizers for their ease of filling and this is why they are generally suggested for beginning vapers. Some people prefer the better flavor, consistancy, and lack of leaking of a cartotank. Some people move on to an RBA type attachment, but they have their own cons, too. It's whatever works for each individual. We all have options to choose from, and that's a good thing. The trick is to find what seems to work for you, and to perfect its performance by understanding its nuances.
For me, most of the clearomizers are inconsistant and mute certain flavors. I believe this is due to their wicking system. A tiny silica string wick can't keep up with a moderate to heavy vaper. This leads to dry or burnt hits; this in turn causes the vaper to pull harder which can lead to gurgling, flooding, and leaking issues.
A cartomizer's entire tube is packed with wicking material. All of this polyfill wick totally surrounds the heating coil insuring there will be no dry or burnt hits. It also insures better flavor production. The proper draw technique will eliminate any flooding issues. A quality cartotank will not leak and is not position dependent.
Antiquated? If it ain't broke, there's no need to update it or fix it. There's a good reason why the "antiquated" cartotank is still a favorite delivery device for many vapers.
High cost of ownership? You often get what you pay for. $30 for a pyrex tank with either stainless steel or anodized aluminum end caps and quality o-rings will last for years. Should the glass tube break, replacement glass is only $4. Over the course of nearly 2 years of vaping, I've accumulated a dozen IBTanked cartotanks, each with their own flavor. These are MY go-to, all-day vape. It's what works for ME.
Mess makers? Once you actually figure out what you are doing, you can set up a cartotank without any mess at all. A toothpick and tank tool makes using a cartotank mess-free and easy.
Baditude's Cartotank Setup Guide
IBTanked Pyrex Cartotank Review
I gave Genesis-style RBA's a whirl. When they work optimally, yeah they are pretty dang nice. However, I found them to be inconsistant, fussy, and time-consuming. Not for me. I've got a Kayfun on the way and hopefully this style will be more consistant, non-fussy, and less time consuming. However, at nearly $100 each I can't see this being a solution for every vaper who enjoys using more than one flavor.
On the subject of LR and SR coils, low resistance coils use slightly more energy (amp draw from the battery) than do standard resistance. 3.0 ohm coils on factory built attachments are what Provape recommends for the Provari. That resistance will give you the widest range of voltage to use.
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No, it's not. I'm not going to get into an extended debate with you, or anyone else on this so address anything you have to say on this point to someone else. I'm here to help the OP, not to have a Provari v. The World debate.
Problem solved.
There is a real good chance that you are correct on that point.
For the OP. Set your VAMO to run in RMS mode by holding the right adjustment button until NO1 or NO2 appears. If NO2 appears, release the button and you will be set to RMS mode. If NO1 appears. Release the button and repeat the procedure until NO2 appears. While in RMS mode, find the wattage that gives you a satisfying vape and adjust your Provari to match.
On a 2.1 Ohm coil
5W= 3.2V
5.5W=3.4V
6W=3.6V
6.5W=3.7V
7W=3.8V
7.5W=4V
You set it that low if you want to vape a 2.1 Ohm coil around 5 Watts.
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It really doesn't matter what you're supplying the current with. A tank is not going to act differently with electricity supplied from a provari vs a vamo. It's not like each has its own type of electricity. If the same voltage is applied, the results should be identical. If you aren't able to get the same performance from the provari then there's something else going on. It could be airflow, or a bad connection, a partial short somewhere, or some setting being overlooked.
Oh, that's sweet. You pegged me as a Tim Curry Fan. Well done! Now on to the meat...
Right, the OP has Kanger BCCs and they work for him/her.
Replace the silica with cotton yarn. Preference achieved...
Exactly! The OP owns Kanger BCCs and likes them. The OP is not getting as satisfying a vape on a Provari as he/she was using a VAMO. Let's fix that rather then sending him/her down another rabbit hole.
Like I said, I used carto-tanks for a good year until I moved on. The flavor is good, the vapor is good but the COO can be high. Especially for a beginner (to carto-tanks). A carto punch, a filling tool, replacement cartos, bad cartos out of the box. I used to use Boge cartos and it got to a point, near the end of my carto tank period, where 3 out of a box of 5 cartos could be bad.
And they will be messy to a beginner.
Good luck with your Kayfun. They are damn good. Not perfect, mind you, but as good as I've had so far. The wicks can be difficult to get right but once you get it down...
I recently satisfied myself that this is not the case:
As we all know, some devices give a nice flat output whatever you set them to, and some go all crazy PWM, dependent on setting and even things like the battery supplying their regulator.
So I just got a VV battery that pulses; I can hear it pulse when I use it. I can tell you that in my opinion it makes a great deal of difference to the to the resultant vape; it even starts to burn at a way lower setting. I feel (hear) that the pulse frequency is not high, and this makes me think that the spikes are.
I'm not a fan of a Provari price tag, but my next upgrade of power supply will focus on the significant factor of output signal.
Being a die hard Protank user on my ProVari I have had similar issues. Here's my experience:
I had 2 older protanks when I got my ProVari in the mail with an extra "new version" protank as an add on. What I noticed was when I put one of my older PT's on it the airflow was different and not getting much vapor. But when I put the "newer" PT on it , it was amazing!
What I saw was the threading on the 510 base of the older PT was about 3 threads less than the newer one.
I bought a couple of aerobases for my older PT's and they work like a champ!
Don't know if your experience is the same but it might be something to consider. My current set up is 6 Aerotanks and one PT with aerobases. They are all working fantastic!
And of course they are all rewicked with cotton.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
I had 2 older protanks when I got my ProVari in the mail with an extra "new version" protank as an add on. What I noticed was when I put one of my older PT's on it the airflow was different and not getting much vapor. But when I put the "newer" PT on it , it was amazing!
What I saw was the threading on the 510 base of the older PT was about 3 threads less than the newer one.
I bought a couple of aerobases for my older PT's and they work like a champ!
Don't know if your experience is the same but it might be something to consider. My current set up is 6 Aerotanks and one PT with aerobases. They are all working fantastic!
And of course they are all rewicked with cotton.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Funny, I had the exact opposite experience: My old PT2 worked like a charm on the Provari, but the one that came with the Provari had a tight air flow and refused to wick properly. Trying different atomizer cores did nothing. Swapping around the PT bases, the problem followed the base. I still haven't identified any significant differences between the bases, but I'm going to take a closer look one of these days.
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I only had good experience with the Protank mini. I had nothing but trouble with the Protank II. Now that I have rebuildable tanks the Protanks collect dust.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Yep. They would last longer between charges. Save those batteries for mech mods.
The ProVari was pretty much built around AW IMR high drain batteries.
See the bolded part up there? That's how it should be, compared to the 33.3 hz chip in the Vamo. That's why you have a bunch of people in here trying to get your situation sorted out.
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I use the Provari V2, haven't tried the mini, but from my experience with the larger mod, I would have to think the problem is, as others have suggested, compatibility with the topper. My Provari is finicky (a lot of my older batteries would not even work in it due to the positive terminals being too flat!). Once I got it dialed in, though, it has worked flawlessly & the quality is miles above my previous mods. I am currently using the ViviNova 3.5ml tanks at 2.4ohm/ 4.2 volts & eagletac 18650 safe batt with good vapor & no burnt taste. I have the Aspire Nautilus on order now, & am anxious to try that out (I did make sure to see it reviewed on a Provari first lol).
Good luck, & dont give up on the Provari, tanks are cheap by comparison.
Good luck, & dont give up on the Provari, tanks are cheap by comparison.
Lol tanks are cheap, but soon add up when you end up with 7/8 tanks.
I have just inspected closely how my protank mini sits on top and notice the ego adaptor does restrict the holes on the tank. If I look closely through the holes it is visible. I think this restriction is what's causing part of my issue.
Here is a picture and as you can see the adaptor is virtually the same length as the air holes once inserted.
Would I achieve any benefit if I drilled out the holes slightly bigger.
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If you drill out the holes you risk exacerbating the problem. You will increase airflow but reduce vacuum and risk pulling less juice to your coil than you are getting now. This could lead to even more of a burnt taste. Have you followed any of the information I've supplied up-thread? If so, how did it work out? If not and you continue to try to operate the design outside of it's intended specs then good luck to you. It seems like you are hung up on what power level you think you should be vaping at rather than where the device actually lives.
If you don't want to take my word for it, take it from directly from Kanger :
Kanger Protank heating coil specs
Gotta love the Engrish.
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I agree. I just can't seem to get the flavor out of them. I love the iClear30s on my ProVari though. Great vapor and flavor too!
Hi ruet
Been busy today and tomorrow.
I'm gonna give all my stuff a good clean and get some fresh coils ready, original kanger, and give it a fresh start with my vamo and provari like for like setting.
Been busy today and tomorrow.
I'm gonna give all my stuff a good clean and get some fresh coils ready, original kanger, and give it a fresh start with my vamo and provari like for like setting.
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