Why do you have to dry your wicks?

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basc

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Oct 6, 2013
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Soaking in alcohol only goes so far--it won't remove the charred crud from the coil and wicks completely. Once your atty gets really bad, use either Fabricator's method (wash and dry burn) or you can use a torch to clean the wick and then dry burn. Either way, always rinse off the ash afterwards. Just be careful not to pop the coil while dry burning--use short bursts of power.
Fabricator's method worked great, I'll try torching the wick next time - might be faster
So, this is a rebuildable dripping atty and you are using silica wicks and micro coils on it. I use a IGO-L with the same setup, except I use cotton or gauze wicks. Cotton doesn't last anywhere near as long as silica, but when it gets gunked up I just take the old cotton out, which is very easy, dry burn the empty coil which was wrapped over a eyeglasses screw driver and use that screw driver to clean out the hole in the coil. Then I put fresh cotton in the coil. It's really quick. I was having to do it every couple of days with cotton though so I tried gauze and that lasts a few days at a time. I have not replaced the coil for over a month now and I suspect it will last a lot longer. I never wash the RDA, just wipe with a Q-tip when I re-wick. You can't dry burn this, so would have to change juice without doing that. I have done it and find the juice change only takes a few drags to complete if you dry the wick with a Q-tip first, but YMMV on that.
Quick is good. I've been using Ekowool... what do you use for a cotton source?
 
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