I don't understand why they make an amp limit!?! Why not just make a watts limit. They say 4-8.5 watts is the sweet spot so rather than make a amp limit why not just make a 8.5 or 9 watt limit?!?!?
Why Make An Amp Limit?!?
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Most regulators have a watt limit as well as an amp limit, it just hasn't been advertised as much, a little research and it can usually be found easily though.
I'm starting to notice more and more that the watt limit is shown also, so that could be changing.
I'm starting to notice more and more that the watt limit is shown also, so that could be changing.
it all has to do with the current being pulled from the battery. A hard amperage limit prevents exceeding the safe limits of the battery. Theoretically a low voltage setting with a low resistance atomizer will not draw any more wattage than a higher voltage setting with a higher resistance atomizer but it could pull a lot more current. while having a wattage limit in addition is a great idea to prevent undo thermal stresses on components a current limit is there to protect the battery.
Don't take this the wrong way Bobby, but that's kind of like asking why cars have a top speed. As Nomoreash pointed out individual hardware components used have current and power limitations. They could design using higher current and power limitations, but devices would be bigger, heavier, and more expensive. And in the end, why? It's not like anyone is going to vape at 30W, you juice would be burnt to a crisp.
Thanks! I thought the amp was for protection but when I emailed a supplier and asked he said it had nothing to do with protection/safety :/ ?
If you are talking about individual switch ratings rather than devices, then thats a great question. Most mod builders here would feel safe using a 2A 70V switch in a mod, because the ratings indicate it can handle 140W. Even though 3A could very possibly pass through it, that three amps would be at a much lower voltage than the rated, thus a lower power.
I assumed you were talking about device power ratings rather than component power ratings because you posted in the VV APV forum, rather than the modding forum.
Amperage = voltage/resistance. It's a convenient way to state to load on a battery or on the electronics that are in between the battery and the atomizer.
As you change voltage and change the atomizer resistance, the current (amperage) goes up and down, as well as the wattage. Wattage is used to rate light bulbs and people regard that number as a brightness factor. What they should be looking at is Lumens (a measure of brightness) and color temperature (from red to yellow to blueish).
You can have the same wattage from a 12V source as you do from a 110v source. Think of car headlights compared to home floodlights. The amperage and voltage for each would be vastly different but the wattage would be similar for a equally bright output. What matters is whether the power source can handle the amperage (current flow) required to produce that wattage output (power in watts).
We think about wattage in terms of vaping satisfaction. It's a measure of heat on an atomizer coil. People that design ecigs think in terms of current capacity, which tells them just how much load you can place on the battery or on the electronics that drive it before damage occurs to either. That's why we have amperage ratings. Amp load can change by varying other parameters such as voltage and resistance.
Amperage rating is the maximum level that you can safely draw current from a power source before is is damaged. You can create various amperage loads by varying other parameters. Wattage is more understood as a measure of output at the device. Amperage is a measurement we use to determine the load on the power source that we provide to power that required device output.
As you change voltage and change the atomizer resistance, the current (amperage) goes up and down, as well as the wattage. Wattage is used to rate light bulbs and people regard that number as a brightness factor. What they should be looking at is Lumens (a measure of brightness) and color temperature (from red to yellow to blueish).
You can have the same wattage from a 12V source as you do from a 110v source. Think of car headlights compared to home floodlights. The amperage and voltage for each would be vastly different but the wattage would be similar for a equally bright output. What matters is whether the power source can handle the amperage (current flow) required to produce that wattage output (power in watts).
We think about wattage in terms of vaping satisfaction. It's a measure of heat on an atomizer coil. People that design ecigs think in terms of current capacity, which tells them just how much load you can place on the battery or on the electronics that drive it before damage occurs to either. That's why we have amperage ratings. Amp load can change by varying other parameters such as voltage and resistance.
Amperage rating is the maximum level that you can safely draw current from a power source before is is damaged. You can create various amperage loads by varying other parameters. Wattage is more understood as a measure of output at the device. Amperage is a measurement we use to determine the load on the power source that we provide to power that required device output.
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OK, my (limited) understanding is:
... wattage would confuse customers even more. Although it's what they actually use to rate the parts for selection. So the engineers DO use watts. It's typical for the EE to figure the wattage (power) going into the part and check the specs, derate the part by 30-50 % and then select the part.
However, the customers would get confused with vv, since volts vary, so they won't know what # to use. They'd have to know to use max volts at lowest ohms for a given situation, then figure the amps & watts. (Like for DCCs)
IMO, you're correct... It's "50 watts per channel Baby!" (Sorry, channeling 70's TV commercials today) not X.X amps. But, since I know what voltages I vape at, amps will do.
Good point about battery max-drain too.
... wattage would confuse customers even more. Although it's what they actually use to rate the parts for selection. So the engineers DO use watts. It's typical for the EE to figure the wattage (power) going into the part and check the specs, derate the part by 30-50 % and then select the part.
However, the customers would get confused with vv, since volts vary, so they won't know what # to use. They'd have to know to use max volts at lowest ohms for a given situation, then figure the amps & watts. (Like for DCCs)
IMO, you're correct... It's "50 watts per channel Baby!" (Sorry, channeling 70's TV commercials today) not X.X amps. But, since I know what voltages I vape at, amps will do.
Good point about battery max-drain too.
Back in the days of the stereo wars there was some deception going on. Amplifiers were advertised as much as 200 watts per channel! Well, that was peak wattage ... the point at which the components were in danger of melting if you ran it wide open for long. At that point total harmonic distortion went through the roof and most people would think it sounded terrible. To decide what was too much, you had to look at the current draw in amperage on the power output transistors (which were so hot they'd burn your finger).
That's why engineers put thermal limiting devices and breakers in the power amp circuit. If you cranked an amp and ran it wide open, at some point it might just shut down when the amperage or heat on the output transistors reached a danger point. The music stopped and you had to wait for cool down and reset.
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You get a 'like' just for that, DaveP. I won't ask about tube-amps. Also, I think it was "Babycakes" not "Baby"... but I digress again.
lol. Found it. It was early 80's. The line is at the end:
Sorry, we're a bit off topic. Thread can continue now...
lol. Found it. It was early 80's. The line is at the end:
Sorry, we're a bit off topic. Thread can continue now...
Doesn't voltage*voltage/resistance(ohm)=watts which should be at about 4-8.5?
How do you calculate amps?
Is 4 amp cuttof still safe for protecting batteries and carto etc?
You said people would have a hard time with watts at setting voltage but all you have to do is get the square root of ohms*watts which people know what watt level they like regardless of ohm.
How do you calculate amps?
Is 4 amp cuttof still safe for protecting batteries and carto etc?
You said people would have a hard time with watts at setting voltage but all you have to do is get the square root of ohms*watts which people know what watt level they like regardless of ohm.
Yes, P = V*V / R
That Watt range is not true for DCC's for example since there are two coils (15.625 watts for 1.6 Ω @ 5v).
The 4 amp cutoff would depend on the battery (it's C limit) as far as battery protection goes. Would probably detect a atty/carto dead short in a 2 batt mod for example.
One way to calc amps: since P = VI, I = P/V. Or to rephrase watts/volts.
BTW, I was basically agreeing that watts are a good way to express it. I just think that "watts" as used by vapers may confuse some since there are so many different voltages and ohms. Then again, amps confuse people too.
Heck, the Darwin allows you to set desired wattage. So who knows.
Remember that for your question we're talking maximums here (the max rating for the device), not the desired vaping setting for the user.
So, for the above mentioned DCC, amps = 3.125 which is under 4 so you're OK for the switch. If you managed to put a really tiny battery in that device, that didn't have enough "C rating" then it would still be bad.
There's also a convention of expressing this in amps for some reason. Buttons (switches) are often sold this way.
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What's a "C rating"
I just purchased a vv mod and but I haven't received it yet (varitube x)
Forgive me for the newb questions lol
And if it equals 3.125 and my cutoff is 4 isn't that unsafe? Wouldn't me going high blow the atty. that's what amp cutoffs are for right?
My main concer is I don't wanna blow my face off, I like my face! hahaha
I think the reason the whole industry hasn't adopted a wattage standard like the Darwin is the relative expense and complexity (size) of wattmeters. There simply isn't an equivalent wattmeter in size and price to the cheap LiPo voltmeters you can get for 3 or 4 bucks on ebay. I wish there were because I'd love to have a wattmeter for the variable wattage DNA 12 chip I just bought.
See the info pages and read http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...0594-q-im-worried-my-e-cig-might-explode.html
?It? if the amp draw is 3.125 and the switch is rated for 4 amps, you're not over-drawing the amps. That's a good thing. That's for the device itself (the electronics).
As far as the battery goes, that's the "C rating". It a specification of the battery. Hi drain batteries, like IMR batteries, are designed to allow more current (amps) draw. They sacrifice storage capacity a bit (mAh).
The atty blowing up is not the problem with blowing up your face. It's the battery blowing up that's the problem. So read the above info.
You can fry almost any atty on a vv device if you over volt it. It goes "pop" like a light bulb when it gives out. Usually, it's dead and no current will flow. Sometimes it can short (rumored) and then the amp limit would kick in to protect the device, but the atty/carto is still toast.
Also, see the manufacturer's site for recommended batteries for the mod. May require high-drain batteries. AW brand IMR batteries are frequently recommended.
The amp limit is for the "switch".... the device. Still have to use your head and also follow recommendations.
IDK if there's specific protection for atomizers/cartos. Maybe Darwin has built in protection since it can sense the atty/carto ohms.
?It? if the amp draw is 3.125 and the switch is rated for 4 amps, you're not over-drawing the amps. That's a good thing. That's for the device itself (the electronics).
As far as the battery goes, that's the "C rating". It a specification of the battery. Hi drain batteries, like IMR batteries, are designed to allow more current (amps) draw. They sacrifice storage capacity a bit (mAh).
The atty blowing up is not the problem with blowing up your face. It's the battery blowing up that's the problem. So read the above info.
You can fry almost any atty on a vv device if you over volt it. It goes "pop" like a light bulb when it gives out. Usually, it's dead and no current will flow. Sometimes it can short (rumored) and then the amp limit would kick in to protect the device, but the atty/carto is still toast.
Also, see the manufacturer's site for recommended batteries for the mod. May require high-drain batteries. AW brand IMR batteries are frequently recommended.
The amp limit is for the "switch".... the device. Still have to use your head and also follow recommendations.
IDK if there's specific protection for atomizers/cartos. Maybe Darwin has built in protection since it can sense the atty/carto ohms.
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Wattage is a good way to express the quality of the vape you are getting and I agree that viewing or setting wattage is a good feedback method for a PV. It's also a technical thing that most people don't care about.
We all crank up the voltage until it's a good vape. We have to have some kind of reference for what voltage works best with what atomizer resistance in order to know what voltage range is realistic.
Truth is, most of us are set on a resistance for our cartos and know what voltage to use to make them work well. Having fancy user interfaces sells ecigs, but we are generating heat and that's it. I grew up with stoves where you turned a knob and the burners got hot. Then, things changed and we have a user interface panel that shows the real time temperature of the oven. The burners on top are still unchanged. If it boils over, you turn it down. If it won't boil, you turn it up.
I listen for the sizzle on my carto. If it pops and cracks here and there, I know it's just right!
We all crank up the voltage until it's a good vape. We have to have some kind of reference for what voltage works best with what atomizer resistance in order to know what voltage range is realistic.
Truth is, most of us are set on a resistance for our cartos and know what voltage to use to make them work well. Having fancy user interfaces sells ecigs, but we are generating heat and that's it. I grew up with stoves where you turned a knob and the burners got hot. Then, things changed and we have a user interface panel that shows the real time temperature of the oven. The burners on top are still unchanged. If it boils over, you turn it down. If it won't boil, you turn it up.
I listen for the sizzle on my carto. If it pops and cracks here and there, I know it's just right!
The chances of a violent incident with your Varitube are statistically greatly reduced because it is a single battery device and doesn't use stacked bats. If you want to decrease them even more, only buy high quality bats from reputable sources, and care for them properly, IOW don't overcharge them. When the light goes green on the charger, take them off (don't just unplug the charger). Also, from what I understand just about every incident of violent outgassing that has happened, has happened on the first fire after the bat came off the charger. Get in the habit of doing a test fire away from your face as soon as you put the fresh bats in.
Good 18650's for your device:
CGR18650CH Panasonic 18650 Li-Mn-Li-ion CGR18650CH High Drain 10A Rechargeable IMR Hybrid Battery Cell
Another good source for bats They have 3100 mAh bats, but not sure if they will fit your device. They also have AW IMR 18650's which is the other good pick for Lavatube style PV's:
Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.
I usually buy mine from Smartvapes.com, but they are out now. Use caution in buying bats. They are heavily counterfeited. Not a good item to buy discounted from eBay.
Look. Think about the amp limit thing this way....since it's vv, they don't know what voltage you'll set or what ohm stuff you'll screw onto it. But they say it's rated to provide up to a maximum of 4 amps to the atty/carto. Like you said that they said... it doesn't protect the battery or the atty/carto. It's rated to provide up to 4 amps.
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