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Interesting about using glass seed beads as insulators. Just a word of caution, some are foil lined as those in the eBay link. I would only try this with clear bead, non metallic. Might have to go through my bead stash and have a go.
good point. mine are plain white - the clear ones are too hard to see ...
damn and i ordered those beads ugghh oh well if someone comes up with better option let me know please
Interesting about using glass seed beads as insulators. Just a word of caution, some are foil lined as those in the eBay link. I would only try this with clear bead, non metallic. Might have to go through my bead stash and have a go.
i suggest: boil them in hot water for 10 minutes ? or dryburn them before ...
I am still trying to decipher which wick method works best.
I keep getting confused, and need to label them better
So far, if I had to venture a guess, I would say the jack frost method produces the best flavor and wicking. I have not decided if that combined with burning the juice on there are similar.
I do know that the jack frost method leaves less dark juice by the end of my tank.
I keep getting confused, and need to label them better
So far, if I had to venture a guess, I would say the jack frost method produces the best flavor and wicking. I have not decided if that combined with burning the juice on there are similar.
I do know that the jack frost method leaves less dark juice by the end of my tank.
I'm new to RBAs
I just wanted to say I'm having phenomenal success with an OPEN center hole on my GTUS and ZAP (quite large), and on the ZAP even better ,an OPEN center hole PLUS a second inner wick, for which I give full credit to mwa and dub the mwa reverse
On the ZAP I've tossed the insulator and now use a massive wick, which seems to work even better again
there are many variables when it comes to what will work with an RBA, and wick break in time is a huge factor and confound here.
But for all the arguments of physics which on the face of it are valid and sound, that are cited in favor of one universal (e.g. more material = better wicking, top coils work better with a small center hole, bottom coils work better with little to no center hole) ...
...I've come to conclusion that we're missing something in our speculations, perhaps the interactions and compromises between capillary action, the speed with which a juice may wick through capillary forces vs. run down the center tube on a bottom coil or bubble up the center tube on a top coil, letting the tank breath, vaping pace, wattage, adhesive forces, cohesive forces and back up reservoir or juice droplets in the wick, all of which feeds into the balance of flooding vs. drying
Bottom line is there are so many variables that empirical performance trumps logical deduction. That's all.
I just wanted to say I'm having phenomenal success with an OPEN center hole on my GTUS and ZAP (quite large), and on the ZAP even better ,an OPEN center hole PLUS a second inner wick, for which I give full credit to mwa and dub the mwa reverse
On the ZAP I've tossed the insulator and now use a massive wick, which seems to work even better again
there are many variables when it comes to what will work with an RBA, and wick break in time is a huge factor and confound here.
But for all the arguments of physics which on the face of it are valid and sound, that are cited in favor of one universal (e.g. more material = better wicking, top coils work better with a small center hole, bottom coils work better with little to no center hole) ...
...I've come to conclusion that we're missing something in our speculations, perhaps the interactions and compromises between capillary action, the speed with which a juice may wick through capillary forces vs. run down the center tube on a bottom coil or bubble up the center tube on a top coil, letting the tank breath, vaping pace, wattage, adhesive forces, cohesive forces and back up reservoir or juice droplets in the wick, all of which feeds into the balance of flooding vs. drying
Bottom line is there are so many variables that empirical performance trumps logical deduction. That's all.
I think the biggest mistake for geni newbs (I was making this mistake too), it to make sure that where the wire is connecting to posts, make sure the wire is going to the INSIDE (between the wick and connection post). The coil is more efficient because of the shorter distance. I was wrapping the long way around.
The Short Wick - I posted about this a while back in the HoH thread, but finally decided to try it. The wick was prepared with the Jackfrost method and I burned in some juice w/ a lighter a couple times after rolling it. Unfortunately I decided to cut the wick after wrapping the wire, but after opening it back up with a safety pin it is working very nicely. Next time I wrap a coil I'll cut it down a bit more and see how it vapes. I can't tell if I'm getting better flavor or if it's placebo, but I'm happy with the results regardless. Plus the added satisfaction of not seeing a wick running through the entirety of the tank. Obviously the device needs to be held near perpendicular to your mouth for it to wick properly, but most do that regardless of the length of wick.
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Only having RBA "experience" so far with just modding a Vision (tank/coil/wick), I had used the original short wicks this one had. At first I thought they were somewhat silly for some reason, but I later came to realize how much they lend you in the "flow control" department, not that anyone would ever need that...least of all me. Yeah, my first cotton wicks were a mixed bunch, and I'm still not quite there...that project is just on hiatus for now.
any update Ob?
im still struggling to get a good consistent vape...also i am still getting nasty dark liquid seeping into my juice from the top down...ruins my juice flavor
im still struggling to get a good consistent vape...also i am still getting nasty dark liquid seeping into my juice from the top down...ruins my juice flavor
Hoping for updates.
How about a few more variables like amount of mesh and the double wick?
Sigh, about to purchase my first Genesis style and really freaking out over the wick.
So far thinking I'm going to try the super fat wick. Seems the easiest and than try adding a 2nd wick.
How about a few more variables like amount of mesh and the double wick?
Sigh, about to purchase my first Genesis style and really freaking out over the wick.
So far thinking I'm going to try the super fat wick. Seems the easiest and than try adding a 2nd wick.
I have a question for you guys! I dont have any lead free solder so i have been struggling to find a way to hook up my NR wire to my nichrome. Twisting it is tearing up my fingers and always causing shorts on the side walls of my vivi nova head.
I smoked em all. They're pretty similar LOL
Good point.
Interesting about using glass seed beads as insulators. Just a word of caution, some are foil lined as those in the eBay link. I would only try this with clear bead, non metallic. Might have to go through my bead stash and have a go.
Well, you are just on the ball, aren't you! Good catch.
I would only take this as a possibility. Sorry, but this doesn't sound sufficient to me.
See you all on the dark side; got 3! re-buildables coming my way - can't wait! So glad these are coming down in price.
[pssst...cotton FTW! But still...gotta find mesh now - just have to see what that's all about
]
Hah, yes, but nowadays they have so many flavored, crazy papers. What happened to the good ole days of plain zig zags?! I just got the only plain/non flavored cig paper I could find, but yes, cig paper is cig paper.
BTW, While I don't need this trick to make a successful coil, it sure has worked well and I haven't had to nudge coils initially yet.
I agree. I was in NYC and went to buy some cig paper to use for the trick listed here. The guy showed me about 30 different ones. I finally bought the rice paper one with a magnet closure on the package. BTW, the rice paper did not seem to work that well FWIF.
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