Wick and Coil Tips and Tricks.

Status
Not open for further replies.

B2L

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
7,844
45,313
Jacksonville, FL
You probably can't get it too tight with your fingers. This lab test, the wire was tightened with a needle nose until it was cutting into the mesh and had no effect. More mythbusters. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html
Clic on pic for video.

I cant believe I just watched 2 minutes of water rising up a wick... and couldnt take my eyes away. Would the water rise to the occasion? Would the strangling wire win? Thanks BJ43 for all the testing you have done, I'm really learning to enjoy my rba and not to take everything I thought to be true at face value.
 

BigErn

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 28, 2012
234
186
44
Georgia
image.jpg
This is how I am wicking the spheroid. WICKed, huh? :tumble:
 

Antwoord

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 5, 2010
203
155
U.S.
That was just a coincidence, if the wick is properly oxidized under the coil it is completely isolated and it doesn't matter if the wick touches side, bottom or whatever.

I believe you are right. I think that cutting the bottom of the wick at an angle after oxidizing, and not oxidizing the freshly cut end was the problem in that particular scenario. I was thinking that it should be able to touch at first as well.
 

BJ43

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 27, 2008
5,896
7,212
82
I believe you are right. I think that cutting the bottom of the wick at an angle after oxidizing, and not oxidizing the freshly cut end was the problem in that particular scenario. I was thinking that it should be able to touch at first as well.
The bottom of the wick does not have to be oxidized nor does the part that goes thru the metal cap, just under the coil, anywhere else the unoxidized steel can make contact and there will be no short. It is not that I am right it is just physically impossible. For all out there, when you oxidize under the coil, the coil is completely isolated as if you had a wrap of rubber tape under it, no current goes to the wick even if the wick is in contact with the common ground.
 

bladebarrier

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 21, 2010
696
203
CT
The bottom of the wick does not have to be oxidized nor does the part that goes thru the metal cap, just under the coil, anywhere else the unoxidized steel can make contact and there will be no short. It is not that I am right it is just physically impossible. For all out there, when you oxidize under the coil, the coil is completely isolated as if you had a wrap of rubber tape under it, no current goes to the wick even if the wick is in contact with the common ground.

Aye. I couldn't quite understand why so much emphasis is placed on things that shouldn't be factoring into the equation.

If the coil is isolated from the wick correctly, it should not pass any current through it, thus oxidizing those areas is irrelevant.

On the other hand, if the coil isn't completely isolated, then those practices might help you adjust the coils in order to fix the problem without having to re-wrap the coil entirely. I believe this is why so many people do it.

I'm going to pick up some rolling papers tomorrow to try out that method, with absolutely no pre-oxidation of the wick other than a brief amount where the coil will be, and only after it's rolled.

I plan to have the wick touch the bottom of the tank (SS), and sides of the top (SS), with no oxidation of either area. It should provide the most accurate results regarding if the coil is spot on or needing a re-do, without any guess work after. I also intend to do the wrapping before installing it, using the paper to effectively show the area the coil will cover (another bonus to that method).
 

jun0felix

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 24, 2012
448
563
63
Switzerland
ahem . just to mention: i do have a round slice of teflon, looking almost like a flat o-ring (but teflon is harder as material). this plate of teflon was thought to cover the bottom of a tank and it came with an RBA from a german modder (aka The Beast).

actually i never used it, because it looks quite sick in a clear tank. and anyway, i do believe in the same physics as BJ43, even though my wicks never touch the bottom of the tank. but i never explored the possibilities coming with teflon, in real my Genisis LV is the only atty that uses teflon inside the vaping champer (as a socket for the wick). but last but not least, it gives you something to fiddle with your atty....
 

Antwoord

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 5, 2010
203
155
U.S.
The bottom of the wick does not have to be oxidized nor does the part that goes thru the metal cap, just under the coil, anywhere else the unoxidized steel can make contact and there will be no short. It is not that I am right it is just physically impossible. For all out there, when you oxidize under the coil, the coil is completely isolated as if you had a wrap of rubber tape under it, no current goes to the wick even if the wick is in contact with the common ground.

Complete oxidation of the wick which is in contact with the coil is the tricky part, complete with human error. You can still be right about that :p Could water remaining in the coil even after rolling the wick, tamping it with a paper towel, conduct current?
 

2GLR

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 1, 2012
319
336
Cedar Rapids
Complete oxidation of the wick which is in contact with the coil is the tricky part, complete with human error. You can still be right about that :p Could water remaining in the coil even after rolling the wick, tamping it with a paper towel, conduct current?
I clean my wicks/coils by running tap water over them and then firing them after dry firing is ineffective. There is no change in resistance while I am doing this. It does take a good but of firing to get the water out of the wick though.
 

TechJ

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2012
647
551
48
Alaska
I do the same. I take tap water as hot as it will go and flush my tank several times. I dry fire it continuous till I get a nice glowing coil then rinse it ingot water to break off the crust without shocking the coil too badly with drastic temperature change. After a few cycles of this and five minutes of my time I have a clean tank , wick , and coil ready for use.
 

BigErn

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 28, 2012
234
186
44
Georgia
whoa. you all are true scientific vapers. I have read this whole thread. Still have a couple of questions. Using a Hellfire Mini on a Piccolo, with a 50/50 juice, which type of mesh and wire would give me the best wicking and a cooler vapor? Also, is there any benefit to using a U-shape wick aside from cheating past the top post shorting? Did i see someone say that it is not good to pull the wick towards the center post? I think i am doing a lot of things wrong, or better stated, not as well as I could if I could understand the genesis scientific functions. I am a good reader, so even a link or three to help me increase my knowledge on this would be helpful. Thanks!
 

Crack3dOne

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 27, 2012
1,016
1,643
Northern VA

Ocelot66

Full Member
Nov 5, 2012
20
7
42
Cornwall
I've recently been using 27 gauge enamel coated nichrome to try to avoid the ritual of wick oxidisation and have a level of certainty when setting up a coil that there wasn't going to be a short. I use a file to scrape the insulation off the ends of the wire that attach to the ground screw / centre post of my DID and wrap it tight on a thick wick that is completely unoxidised. After a few minutes of vaping the vapour and flavour really come through and seem to supersede what I was getting with bare kanthal. I do a 2/3 wrap at about 1.2 ohms. Dry burns aren't a good idea with this setup, or really necessary.
 

MrKV

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 8, 2012
1,690
1,489
Japan to NoVA
the wire i have is kanthal, but it is VERY thick, and i have no idea how many wraps to get a higher resistence.

In that case it will be a trial and error kind of thing. Unless you have a multimeter and can measure different lengths of kanthal to get a feel resistance wise.
 

MrKV

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 8, 2012
1,690
1,489
Japan to NoVA
I've recently been using 27 gauge enamel coated nichrome to try to avoid the ritual of wick oxidisation and have a level of certainty when setting up a coil that there wasn't going to be a short. I use a file to scrape the insulation off the ends of the wire that attach to the ground screw / centre post of my DID and wrap it tight on a thick wick that is completely unoxidised. After a few minutes of vaping the vapour and flavour really come through and seem to supersede what I was getting with bare kanthal. I do a 2/3 wrap at about 1.2 ohms. Dry burns aren't a good idea with this setup, or really necessary.

Enamel coated? Very interesting. When I get time I'll be checking that out.
 

Vinv

Full Member
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2012
67
29
Space
the "petar k" method


...first of all, you will need a "Genisis" type mod:)




and:



from left to right: ~5cm 0,25mm NiChr/Cekas/Kanthal wire, 10x20mm 400 mesh, 2mm, 1.5mm and 1mm borer/nail/needle... (in the rest of the text: "tool"), and tweezers. (1mm needle is not on the picture above)




part 1: wire coil


make wire loops on 2mm (in this case - borer).



loops/wraps should be tightened well, and they mast be all equally parallel wrapped.


now, mount the coil in your unit, and fasten below end of the wire to the shorter connector.




than, using a needle (small and sharp one), make (equal/parallel(!) spaces between the loops. when you do that, fasten the other end of wire to the taller/longer connector.





when you finish spacing, pull out 2mm "tool", and glow red the coil - for cleaning and resistance "stabilisation". also, it will make the coil stiffer, so it doesn't deform so easily.

when done, it should look like this:






part 2: mesh - wicking


roll the mesh around 1mm id. tool. make it tight and try to flatten/smooth the mesh's edges.




than, put inside the mesh 1.5mm tool, and tighten it.




pull out 1.5mm tool and push inside 2mm tool. now, the mesh's surface should be "perfectly" rounded and smooth.





...burning - not "oxidating". torch it once, and do it to the entire surface of the mesh. it will clean the mesh and make it stiffer.
also, before burning make sure that your 2mm "tool" is pulled of - actually pushed in, but only few millimeters, just to hold the mesh when you torch it.




now, put the mesh inside the coil. it must go through the coil very easily. make it just a little wider on the top so it doesn't fall inside tank.




so, it looks like this:





now, when you have perfectly shaped mesh coil - vape it!


note: 2mm id wide mesh should be made from just ~10mm mesh sheet because: it doesn't make too big pressure to the coil; it doesn't clogs too soon; and the most important - it wicks, and watts are not spent for mesh heating, but for e-liquid.

what atty is that ?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread