Here you go quigs...
The layers of cotton were thinner before it got wet. Looks pretty puffy now.
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The layers of cotton were thinner before it got wet. Looks pretty puffy now.
That is a beautiful thing, you got the air hole alignment O ring on there as well
...have you bored out your mid section to accept a larger wick?
That is a beautiful thing, you got the air hole alignment O ring on there as well
Nope. It's completely stock. I'm actually using an ego tank right now. I just put it out in the classies today for a trade. Get your Line back and trade me
You're trading the GTUS?...noooo, you'll miss it, I did...,ah well, GLWT...and don't rub it in on the Lines...I'm down to 1, not happy
Cotton candle wick still going great. Not burnt at all. Love this set up in my Ody and Penelope!
I went back and did a search to get the details on this. I have a Penelope. You're using #2 candlewick, right? Single strand?
BTW I've been using a wick made from a piece of roll cotton on my Penelope since Friday evening. I might have just got lucky but, the wick was easy to set up and so far, I'm loving it.
I think it's # 2. I know I called them and asked what size was around 2 mm before I ordered. I used 2 strands. So doubled at the top under the coils and one strand down the channels.
Chris
Gave up on rebuilding the 5 mil Ego mega xl/xb/sd/big .... duel coil with cotton/gauze wrapping. So I shoved a E-2 in it.
Also known as a Bump.LOL
Also known as a Bump.LOL
Didn't like the Vision Stone V3 tank, even with cotton. I wasn't getting the warm vapor I get with the CE2s. I fired up the CE2 with cotton that I had been using and it's doing fine now. I gotta have some warm vapor, if my aluminum drip tip isn't warmed up from the vapor, it's just not the same.
On a similar note; I'm getting one of the ScubaGen Minis - with these rebuildable atties, do you get warm vapor? Or does all the SS absorb the heat? I may have to do some more experimenting with rebuilding my CE2s, I haven't really come across any easily done techniques that give satisfactory (to me at least) results.
On a similar note; I'm getting one of the ScubaGen Minis - with these rebuildable atties, do you get warm vapor? Or does all the SS absorb the heat? I may have to do some more experimenting with rebuilding my CE2s, I haven't really come across any easily done techniques that give satisfactory (to me at least) results.
TC, I think the majority of the heat you're getting from the CE2 and lack thereof from the Stone Tank is due to the distance from the coil to your lips in the chamber, and the sheer size of the chamber itself. SS tends to exacerbate heat, and since it does not soak in moisture, provides much more vapor in my experience.
I'd recommend getting a small piece of SS and wrap it around the cotton wick in the CE2, then rolling your coil on top of it. You'd have to oxidize the SS at first, but this will give you an idea of how it tastes prior to using a full-on Genesis.
If you want some cheap SS to use for this, I'd recommend the following as a small sampler that won't break the wallet:
WOVEN WIRE MESH STAINLESS STEEL 400 MESH 3"X6" FILTRATION | eBay
I'd recommend getting a small piece of SS and wrap it around the cotton wick in the CE2, then rolling your coil on top of it. You'd have to oxidize the SS at first, but this will give you an idea of how it tastes prior to using a full-on Genesis.
If you want some cheap SS to use for this, I'd recommend the following as a small sampler that won't break the wallet:
WOVEN WIRE MESH STAINLESS STEEL 400 MESH 3"X6" FILTRATION | eBay
Thanks Dan!
I've already had SS mesh wicks in a rebuildable CE2. I rebuilt a couple of CE2s using 27gauge SS tubing for the posts. With the Stone tank I used 24gauge SS wire for the posts. In these rebuilds and in a stock CE2 (w/silica wick), after a few days of vaping and topping off and vaping, my clear DIY juice develops a color - much slower with the stock CE2. Even with using a cotton wick in the Stone tank, the juice started coloring after ~ a day and a half. However, using a stock CE2 re-wicked with cotton, I've gone weeks with no color showing up in my juice.
Apparently the juice is getting 'cooked' somehow - I'm wondering if it's the bare SS posts - which is what I attributed it to when it first happened; but with the tank experience, this provides more evidence in favor of that.
BTW - stock CE2 coils are ~3.2 ohm; the Stone tank coil I made was ~3 ohm.
Ok, back to the
&
discussions
ETA:
This thread is currently the 6th longest in the Modding forum
I've already had SS mesh wicks in a rebuildable CE2. I rebuilt a couple of CE2s using 27gauge SS tubing for the posts. With the Stone tank I used 24gauge SS wire for the posts. In these rebuilds and in a stock CE2 (w/silica wick), after a few days of vaping and topping off and vaping, my clear DIY juice develops a color - much slower with the stock CE2. Even with using a cotton wick in the Stone tank, the juice started coloring after ~ a day and a half. However, using a stock CE2 re-wicked with cotton, I've gone weeks with no color showing up in my juice.Apparently the juice is getting 'cooked' somehow - I'm wondering if it's the bare SS posts - which is what I attributed it to when it first happened; but with the tank experience, this provides more evidence in favor of that.
BTW - stock CE2 coils are ~3.2 ohm; the Stone tank coil I made was ~3 ohm.
Ok, back to the
ETA:
This thread is currently the 6th longest in the Modding forum
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I've been experimenting with SS mesh wrapped cotton wicks. I've been using CE4+ type cartomizers and long, cotton string wicks for the most part. The only portion of the wick I am covering with SS mesh is the part that fits inside the inner tube. That's about 1/8" in length. The coils are wrapped on top of the SS mesh which covers the about 1/16" diameter cotton string. For a while I've been using dark juices with organic content in the form of Tobacco Absolue, Tobacco Extract or other Natural Tobacco Flavorings. I had found that the cotton string wicks would start to gunk up about day three.
I appologize that I lost track of what I was doing and didn't followup on my initial investigations. Here are my preliminary findings.
The addition of SS mesh atop the cotton wicks do seem to improve the length of time of useful vaping. It does appear that the gunking keeps pretty much to the coil area. In short, the coil on top of the mesh tends to keep the build up away from the wick. Additionally, they can be sucessfully dry burned. I've not investigated how many times successful dry buring might be achieved or examined the interior of the wicks to determine the extent of contaminaing gunk that may have collected there.
I've not done side-by-side tests of flavor, etc. between mesh covered and non-mesh covered wicks.
I hope this is of some use to those who use juices that tend to gunk up wicks.
EDIT: Ooops...clarification. I use doubled 1/16" cotton strings for wicks.
I appologize that I lost track of what I was doing and didn't followup on my initial investigations. Here are my preliminary findings.
The addition of SS mesh atop the cotton wicks do seem to improve the length of time of useful vaping. It does appear that the gunking keeps pretty much to the coil area. In short, the coil on top of the mesh tends to keep the build up away from the wick. Additionally, they can be sucessfully dry burned. I've not investigated how many times successful dry buring might be achieved or examined the interior of the wicks to determine the extent of contaminaing gunk that may have collected there.
I've not done side-by-side tests of flavor, etc. between mesh covered and non-mesh covered wicks.
I hope this is of some use to those who use juices that tend to gunk up wicks.
EDIT: Ooops...clarification. I use doubled 1/16" cotton strings for wicks.
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TC-Funny, I just rebuilt 5- 2.2ohm-E-2's this morning. All with different results. The one that works the best is just a short stubby 3/4" air tube in a syringe. Next in line is another stubby in a homemade tank about 1" long.
My E-5 and Map tank with 1.5" air tube both needed extra adapters to give me more air flow.
Ive been rebuilding E-2's for 2 years and I can't say how the next one will come out. There's just so many variables in the connectors. I seem to have the best luck with a 808 base and a 808/510 connector to all my 510 pv's.
The straight 510 connector really tightens up the draw. ego style are even worse.
Also I noticed the deeper in the cup the coil is the tighter the draw. Lately I have been pulling the coil up even with the top of the cup and it seems to improve the air flow.
I'd say just keep making em. The more you make the more tricks you learn to have em perform better.
My E-5 and Map tank with 1.5" air tube both needed extra adapters to give me more air flow.
Ive been rebuilding E-2's for 2 years and I can't say how the next one will come out. There's just so many variables in the connectors. I seem to have the best luck with a 808 base and a 808/510 connector to all my 510 pv's.
The straight 510 connector really tightens up the draw. ego style are even worse.
Also I noticed the deeper in the cup the coil is the tighter the draw. Lately I have been pulling the coil up even with the top of the cup and it seems to improve the air flow.
I'd say just keep making em. The more you make the more tricks you learn to have em perform better.
Is there a sticky... For successful materials in specific device?. For example ::
Gtank us stock ... # thread, #x# cotton guaze baton.
Gtank us drilled out # thread, ..... Etc
Oddy ....etc...
As this the 6 th longest thread in the forum, it would be very difficult to sort through. Has OP been marking the vital info?
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
Gtank us stock ... # thread, #x# cotton guaze baton.
Gtank us drilled out # thread, ..... Etc
Oddy ....etc...
As this the 6 th longest thread in the forum, it would be very difficult to sort through. Has OP been marking the vital info?
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
I read though almost this whole thing today and I have to say Damn! Did cotton gauze tonight on both of my vivis and the taste is SOOOO much better.
I have one I milled out at the bottom of the wick entry and one I didn't to test and the one I milled is performing much much better then the one I did not. Used 2 layers and rolled them and twisted til I made a wick and wrapped them in kanthal 2.5O at 4.8 V it's damn good and no more throat irritation!
I have one I milled out at the bottom of the wick entry and one I didn't to test and the one I milled is performing much much better then the one I did not. Used 2 layers and rolled them and twisted til I made a wick and wrapped them in kanthal 2.5O at 4.8 V it's damn good and no more throat irritation!
I think the conclusion is cotton is cheaper, locally accessible, it wicks better than anything, doesn't burn when its wet...
but you'll have to experiment with different types (gauze=cheesecloth vs. yarn vs. butchers twine vs. cotton baton/cotton balls) and densities/thicknesses to find what works for you
and wash your hands before handling
but you'll have to experiment with different types (gauze=cheesecloth vs. yarn vs. butchers twine vs. cotton baton/cotton balls) and densities/thicknesses to find what works for you
and wash your hands before handling
one of my IO6s gave up the ghost (my fault)
gonna rebuild it with yarn! never been so overjoyed at a devastating blow to my gear lol
gonna rebuild it with yarn! never been so overjoyed at a devastating blow to my gear lol
I think the conclusion is cotton is cheaper, locally accessible, it wicks better than anything, doesn't burn when its wet...
but you'll have to experiment with different types (gauze=cheesecloth vs. yarn vs. butchers twine vs. cotton baton/cotton balls) and densities/thicknesses to find what works for you
and wash your hands before handling
Also, anything that comes twisted (yarn, string, twine...) will most likely have been processed with a sizing agent to keep it twisted, sizing is a factory applied starch (which may/may not contain anti-bacterials and fragrances) but this can be removed with a good long boil with a few water changes.
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