Wicking Material
- Thread starter Jim Davis
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An aquarium store has porous ceramic type stuff. You could dremel off a pile of ceramic wicks off one of these: Aqua Pro Aquarium Filter Media
What do you think?
Very interesting - looks like a much better system - I assume it
produces as much vapour as a bundled-fibre wick?
Where did you purchase that atomizer from?
Is that picture after just a hot-burn clean, or is it cleaned with
something esle as well?
Got loads of those ceramic rings to spare
(from an aquarium filter housing not surprisingly),
might have a play.
Wonder if the problem with
'gunk building up under the coil & physically breaking the coil wire'
is less of a problem with a solid surface rather than one with
initial 'give' like fibre bundle ?
You couldn't post a link to the photo at full resolution could you,
or is it is already full rez?
Lots of questions...
That's a Puresmoker M401 atomizer. M401's vape OK.
(The timeout annoys me off, so I don't use them, 2 full kits - lol )
I gave it a clean at 5v for 10 seconds and it popped. No chems.
So did another one right after, a new one though. It popped too.
5v is too much for them - they are only 2.8 ohms.
Resolution - I took those as low res.
I took some more for you at higher res. This is as close as I can get, if I put the lens any closer it blocks the light and I get worse shadows... ;-) They are kinda small atomizers.
Big enough?
That's a Puresmoker M401 atomizer. M401's vape OK.
(The timeout annoys me off, so I don't use them, 2 full kits - lol )
I gave it a clean at 5v for 10 seconds and it popped. No chems.
So did another one right after, a new one though. It popped too.
5v is too much for them - they are only 2.8 ohms.
Resolution - I took those as low res.
I took some more for you at higher res. This is as close as I can get, if I put the lens any closer it blocks the light and I get worse shadows... ;-) They are kinda small atomizers.
Big enough?
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I'm not so sure that giving any of these atty's a burn of ten seconds at 5v is healthy for any of them. The nichrome 80 wire used in most of these has a diameter of .004. In looking up the what it takes to heat these .004 diameter wires to 400 degrees fahrenheit it's about .016 amps. To get them to cherry red.... which a long burn does... I don't believe the wire diameter is capable of handling that kind of current load for that long. The high amperage is superheating the wire and melting it. Using a larger diameter wire would certainly solve the longevity problems with high voltage mods, but atty's with a larger diameter wire would not work on standard e-cig model batteries. They just don't have the voltage and current delivering capabilities. A larger diameter wire would of course solve the distortion problems of heating and cooling during operation, but would also draw much more power from the battery.
I think this part of your post is off. The normal current in the heater coil is around 1 amp.
Hi all ...a lot of posts since I went to bed...when I had my Evo the coils for those atty's seem to be wound around a solid ceramic rod...and whenever I took those apart the ceramic underneath the coil was always broken and crumbled ...I wonder if the pressure caused by the gunk building up around the coils actually crushed it. ..I did notice the wire had thick deposit even on the side that had been against the ceramic rod.
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Sudden deflation
That's quite amazing that the cermaic could be crushed. As you observed Pete, the deposit can get under the wire while it's expanded; but one would think that could only occur to a certain extent. It might be worth trying a solid ceramic.
Deposit-free juices anyone?
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Yes with the evo the ends of the rod sticking out of the coil would always be ok..but all the part underneath the coil would be much smaller..all crumbled and broken up.. and seeing as it doesn't burn or melt I could only think that it was getting like that by being crushed.
Thanks for the new piccies RjG, much clearer,
its interesting about the crystalline 'growth' on there.
Was that 5V at the full 1750mA, if it was I'm not surprised they blew,
most I've had my 901 to is 1280mA = painfully bright.
Pete, you've been holding out on us
it looks like even a solid rod can't withstand the power of the vape-side.
its interesting about the crystalline 'growth' on there.
Was that 5V at the full 1750mA, if it was I'm not surprised they blew,
most I've had my 901 to is 1280mA = painfully bright.
Pete, you've been holding out on us
it looks like even a solid rod can't withstand the power of the vape-side.
Lol exo.......nothing can withstand the 'force' of my vaping. Actually I was wondering if a solid glass rod of the type used in glass cookware would be able to withstand the temperatures and the pressures better.
Looking at the fact that your deposit built up between the rod & coil wire,
I'd say we want nothing in there at all.
A pyrex glass rod, say, might also cause the wire to break.
If only I can get this 'lots of thin tungsten wire only' thing to be a go-er.
I'd say we want nothing in there at all.
A pyrex glass rod, say, might also cause the wire to break.
If only I can get this 'lots of thin tungsten wire only' thing to be a go-er.
Hey !
You laughed me out of court when I suggested an empty coil !
If you think about the air flow that contains the droplets, having the air flow through the 'coil' makes sense.
Edit (add): Additionally, a slightly thicker wire to increase the coil's heat capacity in lieu of the juice soaked/coated core might be advisable.
Edit (add): Re tunsten filaments. Perhaps a mesh formed of cross-checked filaments with a pore size to small for droplets but easy for air flow would be a neat design.
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Er, I meant remove the wick core, but replace with something
to still make the atomizer actually work
- eg possibly lots more (suitable) wire in-lieu of the 'reserviour'
function of the wick.
Maybe this would be more thinner wire to give the required surface area,
for vapour creation - maybe.
Has anyone actualy ever got a use-able vape from a coil with no wick?
The idea mesh might actually work, somewhat fiddly to make, I suspect.
I was thinking of just a random bundle of wires filling the ceramic pot,
so that it works like the wick, cross-shorting is the problem to overcome.
to still make the atomizer actually work
- eg possibly lots more (suitable) wire in-lieu of the 'reserviour'
function of the wick.
Maybe this would be more thinner wire to give the required surface area,
for vapour creation - maybe.
Has anyone actualy ever got a use-able vape from a coil with no wick?
The idea mesh might actually work, somewhat fiddly to make, I suspect.
I was thinking of just a random bundle of wires filling the ceramic pot,
so that it works like the wick, cross-shorting is the problem to overcome.
I just got a test setup for current and voltage on EM901 and at 3.2 volts it was drawing 1.4 amps, thought it might my DC power supply (almost 0 ohms) so measured with the pass-through & battery THE SAME.
Will make curves of voltage and amps for different settings but can't test to destruction until i get more att's. Will post a 'burn clean' test for the 901's too.
1.4 amps, i wouldn't have believed it, I'll start a thread this weekend sometime with charts.
PS anyone in Houston who has bad batteries i can use them to make test stands for other att's, still have plenty of hot glue.
Will make curves of voltage and amps for different settings but can't test to destruction until i get more att's. Will post a 'burn clean' test for the 901's too.
1.4 amps, i wouldn't have believed it, I'll start a thread this weekend sometime with charts.
PS anyone in Houston who has bad batteries i can use them to make test stands for other att's, still have plenty of hot glue.
That current should be less if the voltage was from a battery (with its higher internal resistance; i.e. rediced voltage across the coil). Curious.
Has anyone measured the resistance per cm of the mysterious metal meshing? I'm thinking heater element, using a small piece of it (crazy thought).
Exo - re shorting of tungsten. What is the resstance per cm? Can you coat with high temperature enamel (spray paint), as done on copper wire in transformers etc.?
Exo - re shorting of tungsten. What is the resstance per cm? Can you coat with high temperature enamel (spray paint), as done on copper wire in transformers etc.?
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How can someone find out what that wicking material is made of? Who would you bring it to in order for it to be tested? This may sound luny, but have you heard of Morgellons disease?
Jane, some of them, nobody knows. Silica/Fiberglass/ceramic fiber probably.
Get an M401. It's wick is ceramic, and the mesh is steel. No mysterious fibers at all. OK?
PS - That's faaaar off topic, and a good choice for a starting a new topic, not this one.
Get an M401. It's wick is ceramic, and the mesh is steel. No mysterious fibers at all. OK?
PS - That's faaaar off topic, and a good choice for a starting a new topic, not this one.
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