Guys, do I have this right - the more wire the longer it's gonna take to heat up? I'm referring to 24 gauge Kanthal btw
Wire heating question
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It's not that simple, but in general, you're on the right track. If you really want to get into it get to know the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator. Heat flux is important. That is miliwatts per square mm of coil surface area. With open air flow RDAs I like to vape at 390-440. Go too high with that and you'll get burnt hits with those devices. There will be a different range for clearos and for different types of rebuildable tanks.
Heat capacity indicates how much heat is required to get the coil to temperature and this is the one that will answer your question. I don't worry about this one because my setups come up to heat so quickly it doesn't matter if it takes 0.1 second or 0.2.
Heat capacity indicates how much heat is required to get the coil to temperature and this is the one that will answer your question. I don't worry about this one because my setups come up to heat so quickly it doesn't matter if it takes 0.1 second or 0.2.
Yeah, and the longer it retains heat. Too long and it's gonna sizzle for a while after you let go of that button. That amounts to a bunch of wasted juice.
you know I was wondering 'cause I built a .5ohm coil, 6 wraps (24 gauge, that's the only one I have at the time), and then I built .45 DUAL coils, 12 wraps, and it was taking forever to heat up. I mean like 5 seconds and up.
I know that the more surface area the more flavor you'll get which is what I was originally aiming for.
Do you guys think it would heat up faster with like a 28 guage duals?
I know that the more surface area the more flavor you'll get which is what I was originally aiming for.
Do you guys think it would heat up faster with like a 28 guage duals?
There is an optimal wire gauge (or two) for every resistance value, surface area and available current output. I've written a guide that explains some of the more frequently misunderstood or ignored elements of Steam Engine... here. Have a read if you get a chance... it may help to clarify a few things. ;-)
ok dude thank you, I read it, but kind of confused on heat flux thing. I put in my parameters and it came to 83 milliwatts per millimeter. And it's blue. Yet it lights up pretty quick. Oh I might add that that I'm still using that sub ohm battery by aspire 'cause my Apollo and batts didn't come in yet. I'm assuming that as the color changes down to the red it should heat up faster correct?
ok what???? I just put in 28 kanthal, everything remained the same (2mm diameter, target resistance of .53 on a single coil set up)
The wraps went down to 3 (from 7 rounded), which makes sense 'cause from what I remember the thinner the wire the more resistance, but the heat flux (keeping the watts at "10" and I don't know why) jumped up to 335 mW/mm. Is that right? :O
The wraps went down to 3 (from 7 rounded), which makes sense 'cause from what I remember the thinner the wire the more resistance, but the heat flux (keeping the watts at "10" and I don't know why) jumped up to 335 mW/mm. Is that right? :O
28 gauge at .8 resistance will put me at 222 (green zone), so I gotta go get some 28
I don't understand the question; sounds like you're asking if the steam engine calculator is right?
if so then I guess yes, it should be right.
change the watts till the color goes green.
why is that heat flux - @ 10 watts?
It comes up as standard, should I change that? and if then to what?
It comes up as standard, should I change that? and if then to what?
It's a relatively arbitrary number.
If you get blue, then you can raise the number (10) to see what value watts you need for it to go green. If your vw mod can handle it then you're good to go.
sorry dude I was thinking out loud.
So should I change the watts? Is that separate from the rest of the formulas on that page and I'll have to put in watts depending on my volt output and all that? That means it would change as the battery drains correct?
no I'll be on a mech mod soon, right now I'm using a sub ohm aspire battery
If you have a vw mod, then you can put in a value for the watts that you know your vw mod can do.
If you are using a mech, then you'd have to calculate the watts and put in that calculated value
It would be easier to work with a vv/vw mod starting out, then go to a mech later on.
I did, here's what I came up with:
went to the ohm's law section, at .15 ohm, at 4.2 volts, puts me at a current of 28 amps with 117.6 watts. Peachy, that's what I want.
Then I go to the wrap coil section, I do 24 gauge Kanthal aiming for .15 ohms resistance, dual coil, with 2.4 mm diameter, puts me at 3.47 wraps, I put it 117 watts from the other page and it goes to 861 mW/mm.
So much for the green zone. What did I screw up on the Watts part?
What is your question?
You plugged the numbers in and got your answer.
btw if you have little to no experience, you shouldn't be messing with 0.1 ohms and 28 amps.
Like I indicated earlier, if you are using a mech then you have to hit or miss till you get it right.
If you use a vw mod it would be easier to get started.
dude I was referring to if I put in the watts correctly into the heat flux section or am I supposed to divide it up by something somehow
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