Wire Rope for Wick?

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Statistic

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have you tried using a very short piece of wire rope?

Not yet, I plan to give that a try this weekend, gonna just cut the wick I've been using in half and try again.

quick question though, how many wraps are you doing? what's the flavor on it (with fresh-ish juice)? and are you using ribbon wire? i'm still trying to find that fine medium of heat/TH/flavor. 2-1 wrap has been interesting, but heat is still a minor issue if i chain vape.

3/2 wrap with 2 strands of 32g Kanthal A-1, meters at 0.8ohm. Vapor production is absolutely amazing, better than any other setup I've used so far. Flavor is equally awesome when the juice is fresh, starts getting a bit nasty when I get down to about the last 1/4 of the tank, and this is starting with fresh completely clean tanks. I have some low gauge Kanthal and some ribbon wire on the way to play with this weekend, really hoping I can find a setup that works for me.

I think the real problem for me is I like to chain vape and I mean CHAYNE VAPE!! I'm trying to find a setup that will allow me to do this without getting lousy before the tank is empty, maybe I need to reevaluate my expectations, maybe I need to just stick to drippers :(

I think it would be possible if I could find a setup that dissip[ates heat fast enough. This SS rope just gets so hot and holds heat for so long, then while it's still hot it's also wicking juice up into that heat and cooking it for many seconds after I've taken my draw.
 

Vault

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I`ve just received the second of my samples of SS rope. This one from a marine company that states it is 316 grade Stainless Steel.
I performed the same tests as before using Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) and the results are excellent :)
No reactions what so ever, this stuff is totally inert and un-plated, plus no nylon threads either.
This was with the 3mm rope so i`ve immediately ordered some 2mm from them as the source seems good.
I should have enough wicks to last a few years! as I can`t see the actual SS rope needing replacing :ohmy: just cut two to length and rotate them for cleaning :D
 

Viluxia

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This is how I do it.
1 Torch burn rope until it glows almost white and quench, small amount of black crap will come off rinse and dry.
2 Cut mesh to size (top of rope to just above wick hole) I use #500, wrap four times rolling very tight with the lay of the rope strands.
3 Coil the wick tight if using ribbon and then pulse dry burn, very short pulses at first until coils start to glow adjust coils as you go until all glow evenly and make longer pulses just to make sure all is well.
And that takes around ten minuits, some people don't like to torch the wire rope as it will lose its shine for me this isn't a problem and by torching to high heat if white smoke is visible then you will know for sure it is galvanized (bin it). The black crap when quenched will be from the manufacturing process, since I started to do this my juice has remained clean.
Best of luck just take your time with prep it is well worth it.....hope this helps.

Cheers bud, thats how ive been doing it, apart from the quenching of the rope, just been burning till its glowing orange then letting it cool down, when you say wrapping the ribbon tight, do you mean tighter than on a normal mesh wick, im thinking most of my issues are coil related to be honest, they might be getting looser as they heat up i dunno. Ive got a 2mm one working ok for the moment, requires a 3'oclock tilt to wick though :confused:
 

burnie71

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Cheers bud, thats how ive been doing it, apart from the quenching of the rope, just been burning till its glowing orange then letting it cool down, when you say wrapping the ribbon tight, do you mean tighter than on a normal mesh wick, im thinking most of my issues are coil related to be honest, they might be getting looser as they heat up i dunno. Ive got a 2mm one working ok for the moment, requires a 3'oclock tilt to wick though :confused:

The only reason I quench is to remove gunk, although its 316 stainless without plastic/nylon inserts there is a fair bit of gunk. As for the mesh I just role roll it on as tight as possible, have been using mine for weeks now and just twist the wick out for cleaning now and again and also to dry burn the coil rolling the mesh tight again when I reinstall it.
 

Atlantisboy

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Uma

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Ok, I've been bouncing around in the last few pages in here and I'm ready to give this SS rope a shot but I have a few (just a few) questions. ;)

1) Is there any proven advantage of 7x19 over the 7x7?
2) For my D14 and D20 what size is recommended? 3/32" seems to be the most talked about.
3) Is 304 SS ok to use or should I just go with 316 SS?
4) For a 1.7 to 2.2 Ω set-up what size ribbon wire should I go with?
5) Is there a place in the US that sells all these goodies or at lease the ribbon wire?

Thank you for your support. :D
Bump for a good guy.
 

shortyjacobs

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Ok, I've been bouncing around in the last few pages in here and I'm ready to give this SS rope a shot but I have a few (just a few) questions. ;)

1) Is there any proven advantage of 7x19 over the 7x7?
2) For my D14 and D20 what size is recommended? 3/32" seems to be the most talked about.
3) Is 304 SS ok to use or should I just go with 316 SS?
4) For a 1.7 to 2.2 Ω set-up what size ribbon wire should I go with?
5) Is there a place in the US that sells all these goodies or at lease the ribbon wire?

Thank you for your support. :D

1) Not that I know of. In my initial testing, 7x7 did better than 7x19. Some say 7x7 is better, some say 7x19. Don't think either has turned out "bad".
2) 3/32" is most talked about because it fits a lot of atties. A few folks have gone up to 1/8" if their wick holes are bigger, but often run into heat retention issues. Other folks prefer 1/16", (slightly smaller than 3/32"), with the mesh wrapped around enough to fill the wick hole. The thought here is smaller wick = less heat lag and less heat retention. My thoughts - the extra mesh diaper will slow wicking to the coil, (mesh is a speedbump). You could wrap more mesh at the point where the wick passes through the deck to "seal" it, and then less mesh at the part where the coil is. I've found that the less mesh I use, the better, (I go about 1.1x around the wire rope wick with mesh...just barely enough to overlap).
4) Sorry, not a Ribbon expert.
5) Wire rope from Mcmaster, Amazonsupply.com (free ship if you are a prime member), eBay, marine supply stores, some hardware stores. If getting it from ebay, marine supply, or hardware stores, might be good to dip a bit of rope in Drano to see if it's galvanized. If it bubbles, it's galvanized....if it doesn't react, it's not. Galvanized is bad. There's McMaster and Amazon links back in the first page or two of this thread....and somewhere in the middle too.
 

vapspaz

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LOL thanks uma. I was starting to think I was invisible or something. :D

And thanks Shorty for all the great info.

Believe it or not, I was placing an order for all that stuff as uma was typing her reply in here. Right to the very minute even. How weird is that. LOL

I'm gonna try the 7x19 wire and some .5 FRW. Been wanting to try it for a long time now.
 

bigv69er

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LOL thanks uma. I was starting to think I was invisible or something. :D

And thanks Shorty for all the great info.

Believe it or not, I was placing an order for all that stuff as uma was typing her reply in here. Right to the very minute even. How weird is that. LOL

I'm gonna try the 7x19 wire and some .5 FRW. Been wanting to try it for a long time now.

7x7 is supposed to be better
 

Viluxia

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The only reason I quench is to remove gunk, although its 316 stainless without plastic/nylon inserts there is a fair bit of gunk. As for the mesh I just role roll it on as tight as possible, have been using mine for weeks now and just twist the wick out for cleaning now and again and also to dry burn the coil rolling the mesh tight again when I reinstall it.

Much appreciated, for me at least im finding more hotspots appear once ive vaped for a while, so im going to assume my coil is at fault but apart from that i have 1 last question, Considering we dont have to watch out for strangling the wick with this rope, can we wrap the coils a bit tighter than normal, that is assuming the mesh is either oxidised correctly, or doing the pulse method on a pretty dead battery or low vv.
Apart from the above the AC9 is rocking on the Poldiac.
 

Statistic

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I asked this else where but did not get an answer. I cannot see how wrapping uninsulated wire on a conductive form could work.

If you wrap it directly on the rope it won't. There has to be some sort of insulator between the rope and the coil, plus the surface of the rope is too irregular to keep the coil wet. A lot of people are using SS mesh which insulates because the surface of it is oxidized. Some others are using materials like wool, silica, or ceramic rope which insulates for much more obvious reasons
 
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shortyjacobs

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I asked this else where but did not get an answer. I cannot see how wrapping uninsulated wire on a conductive form could work.

Same way it works in a normal genny. Various voodoo creates an insulating layer on the SS mesh, (burnt juice, austinic changes in the crystalline structure, oxidation of the SS surface through the formation of quadvalent chromium, "carbon buildup", take your pick of the the MANY theories), which insulates the coil from the mesh. Pulsing the coil also may or may not trigger similar changes in the kanthal, further insulating it.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
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