Wire suggestion for my tanks

[Krang]

Hi,

I am looking to buy some wire for the RTA/RDA I am going to buy and not quite sure what to get. I read up on allot of this stuff but my problem is with OHMS and figuring out what works with what setup.

I want to buy a a TC mod so I was thinking of going with some SS 316 wire.
I would like to try out clapton as allot of people really like it for flavor.
Definitely want to have best flavor possible, and if possible some nice clouds.

Here are the RTA/RDA I have on order :

OBS Engine Nano single coil
The Troll dual coil
Digiflavour Siren V2 (MTL)
Velocity v2 clone

Now I am jumping back into vaping after being gone for 3 years and back then I only ever used 1.2 - 1.5 Ohm coils or above. I want to jump back in with the new gear but I am looking to have both and that is why I bought a Siren V2. Now I presume I will need another wire type for the Siren.

I was looking at the 40/28 SS fused 2 core Clapton wire from lightning vapes.
6 wraps should give me about .3 ohms in single coil setup and 0.15 ohms in a dual coil setup.
What do you think about this? Is 40 awg too small?

Could I go clapton coil with the Siren also and get a good 1.5 Ohm coil?
Or is there beter coils to use out there?

 

[Wraith504]

in reference to AWG size the lower the number the bigger diameter the wire. so 40/28 is a 28 awg in center wrapped with 40awg on the outside.

 

[Krang]

in reference to AWG size the lower the number the bigger diameter the wire. so 40/28 is a 28 awg in center wrapped with 40awg on the outside.

Yeah just fixed that I wrote big but meant to type small

 

[Wraith504]

that would probably yield a wire that is around 26awg.

 

[Krang]

that would probably yield a wire that is around 26awg.

Would a 26 awg SS be good for the tanks I ordered ?

 

[stols001]

You should be able to make that work, yes. You don't need a twisted wire if you don't feel ready to make one, just play around with steam-engine and see how you like what you end up with. As far as I'm concerned with TC, I like to keep things simple. I've thought about twisting wires and whatnot, but I don't see a huge reason for it (with that said, I'm a MTL vaper). If you are feeling confused though, I'd say go with something simpler, and see how that is. I use 28 gauge SS wire for building, and I find it easy enough to work with, so yes, you could use that wire in your tanks.

Anna

 

[Krang]

You should be able to make that work, yes. You don't need a twisted wire if you don't feel ready to make one, just play around with steam-engine and see how you like what you end up with. As far as I'm concerned with TC, I like to keep things simple. I've thought about twisting wires and whatnot, but I don't see a huge reason for it (with that said, I'm a MTL vaper). If you are feeling confused though, I'd say go with something simpler, and see how that is. I use 28 gauge SS wire for building, and I find it easy enough to work with, so yes, you could use that wire in your tanks.

Anna

Ok noted. You have been very helpful the past couple of days. Thank you so much Anna!

 

[mimöschen]

If you want to run higher ohm MTL builds, I'd resort to 28ga kanthal. With SS you need too much wraps, as it about halves the resistance of the coil. And more wraps means more metal to heat up by the mod, before it can vaporize the juice, so a long ramp up time can probably be an issue.
For lower ohm DL single coil builds at a range between 0.5 and 0.3 ohms however SS 26ga would be my wire of choice.
In dual configuration however I liked to use nichrome80 26ga or kanthal 24ga wire.

 

[KenD]

I'd suggest starting with simple single-wire ss316 coils, 26 or 28ga. Complex wires sometimes introduce problems with tc, and they don't perform that much better than simple coils anyway.

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[Krang]

I actually ordered last night.
I grabbed the 40/28 SS fused 2 core Clapton wire for my 0.3 or so ohm builds (single coil) and 0.15 ohm builds (dual coil).
I also grabbed some single wire 32 awg SS 316L for my 1.5-1.6 ohm mtl builds.

Hope I don't get issues with tc and ramp up time.
I will be using them on a Voopoo drag.

 

[Zakillah]

If you want to run higher ohm MTL builds, I'd resort to 28ga kanthal. With SS you need too much wraps, as it about halves the resistance of the coil. And more wraps means more metal to heat up by the mod, before it can vaporize the juice, so a long ramp up time can probably be an issue.

I am happily awaiting the day when most vapers finally realise that resistance doesnt matter on a regulated Mod.
So what your mtl build has 0,7 Ohms. Make a small coil, turn the Watts to 8, it still is a mtl vape.

 

[mimöschen]

Resistance does matter on a regulated mod.
Ok, not so if you like to vape lower wattages or MTL , but for higher wattages and depending on the mod and batteries used, your statement is simply not completely true. For example most dual 18650 mods on the market don't have a boost circuit and on top of that have a max output voltage of around 6V and some few a max of 7,5V. But only if the batteries are fully charged. The more the batteries get drained through vaping, the lower the output voltage gets. And when that happens, you can not vape at the desired wattage.
With a 0,7ohm coil you get a max of around 80watts with fully charged batteries at an output of 7,5V , but when the batteries get drained and the output voltage drops down to 6V, the maximum achievable wattage drops down to 51w.
At a max output of 6V however you get the max of 51w. But as the capacity drops, you get only a max of 5V, which in turn decreases max wattage to lowly 35w.
But I must admit, that these are quite extreme vaping conditions, which are seldom encountered by "standard vapers".

Another point is, that some batteries suffer from a significant voltage drop at higher amps. So if you built too low, batterylife will decrease. And that is true for all mods out there.

Last but not least, the lower the resistance, the more the batteries get strained, which can decrease cyclelife significantly, because they run a lot hotter.

 

[Zakillah]

Yes, I am aware of that...and it pisses me off. Why are there no (literally NONE) affordable mods that do, say 12 Volts?
*sorry for the rant*

There is still no real reason that a mtl build has to be above 1 Ohm, especially if SS is used.

 

[mimöschen]

12V is way too much for the average vaper or most "mainstream tanks/RTAs" out there imo. This would only result in a lot of burning atties. And the 7,5 or even 6V are perfectly fine for the majority of vapers.
For me personally a reliable constant voltage output of 7.5V would sufficemore than enough.
But I rarely vape higher than 70W.

Concerning cycle life of the batteries, a higher resistance is always prefereable.
Even in low wattage builds.

 

[KenD]

Concerning cycle life of the batteries, a higher resistance is always prefereable.
Even in low wattage builds.

Sorry, but I don't follow your logic here. Watts are watts, and the batteries don't get strained more just because the resistance of the coil is lower.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Zakillah]

12V is way too much for the average vaper or most "mainstream tanks/RTAs" out there imo. This would only result in a lot of burning atties. And the 7,5 or even 6V are perfectly fine for the majority of vapers.
For me personally a reliable constant voltage output of 7.5V would sufficemore than enough.
But I rarely vape higher than 70W.

Concerning cycle life of the batteries, a higher resistance is always prefereable.
Even in low wattage builds.

A 41mm atty is way too big for "the average vaper" and a 200W+ mod is way too powerful. They still exist on the market.
Nothing will change and no one will "burn" their atties just because a mod has a little more Voltage to spare. You still dial in your prefered Watts just like you do with any other mod. Do people vape at 200W all the time and burn their wicks just because the mod can?
No. Why would that suddenly change? Sorry, but that makes no sense.

I am fully aware that most people wont need it. So what? I´d like such a device because I love high gauge wire, even for higher power builds.
From a technical standpoint, this is definitely doable, as Dicodes somehow manage to wrestle 12V out of a single 18650; but all other companies are more concerned that their devices fire down to ridiculous resitances then to actually include a decent voltage boost.
2 Cells, 150W, 12 Volts. That would be a great Mod.

 

[mimöschen]

Sorry, but I don't follow your logic here. Watts are watts, and the batteries don't get strained more just because the resistance of the coil is lower.

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Watts are watts, volts are volts and amps are amps. Right.
I'm not talking about batterylife of a charged cell, but instead about chargecycles.
100W on a 1ohm coil require 10V and 10A.
100W on 0.5ohm coil need 7V and 14A.
Ignoring voltagesag Batterylife will be the same, but the more amps are taken, the hotter the battery runs, and a hotter running battery loses capacity per chargingcycle faster.
That's why few people get the 500 chargecycles that some manufacturers state in their datasheets, because they calculate cyclelife with a max ampdraw of 5A, but instead have to replace them after 200-300 charges.
The same is true if you fast charge the batteries. Charging with higher amps damages the cell, which in turn decreases cyclelife.

That's at least the way it was explained to me.

A 41mm atty is way too big for "the average vaper" and a 200W+ mod is way too powerful. They still exist on the market.
Nothing will change and no one will "burn" their atties just because a mod has a little more Voltage to spare. You still dial in your prefered Watts just like you do with any other mod. Do people vape at 200W all the time and burn their wicks just because the mod can?
No. Why would that suddenly change? Sorry, but that makes no sense.

I am fully aware that most people wont need it. So what? I´d like such a device because I love high gauge wire, even for higher power builds.
From a technical standpoint, this is definitely doable, as Dicodes somehow manage to wrestle 12V out of a single 18650; but all other companies are more concerned that their devices fire down to ridiculous resitances then to actually include a decent voltage boost.
2 Cells, 150W, 12 Volts. That would be a great Mod.

Thinking about it, that makes absolutely no sense, right.
Perhaps I should put a little bit more trust into the cleverness of humankind.
So sorry about that.

The manufacturers prefer the lowcost alternative, because it's cheaper to built lowohmcoils than to build highend mods.
Although there are some dual mods like the Tesla Steampunk 120 with a constant output voltage of 9V.

 

[KenD]

Watts are watts, volts are volts and amps are amps. Right.
I'm not talking about batterylife of a charged cell, but instead about chargecycles.
100W on a 1ohm coil require 10V and 10A.
100W on 0.5ohm coil need 7V and 14A.
Ignoring voltagesag Batterylife will be the same, but the more amps are taken, the hotter the battery runs, and a hotter running battery loses capacity per chargingcycle faster.
That's why few people get the 500 chargecycles that some manufacturers state in their datasheets, because they calculate cyclelife with a max ampdraw of 5A, but instead have to replace them after 200-300 charges.
The same is true if you fast charge the batteries. Charging with higher amps damages the cell, which in turn decreases cyclelife.

That's at least the way it was explained to me.



Thinking about it, that makes absolutely no sense, right.
Perhaps I should put a little bit more trust into the cleverness of humankind.
So sorry about that.

The manufacturers prefer the lowcost alternative, because it's cheaper to built lowohmcoils than to build highend mods.
Although there are some dual mods like the Tesla Steampunk 120 with a constant output voltage of 9V.

Lower resistance won't take more amps (at the same wattage). The battery will provide the volts it has. If a higher voltage is needed more amps are drawn for the conversion, if less voltage is needed less current is drawn. For the same wattage the amp draw will be the same, no matter the resistance. Otherwise the battery life would be different as well.

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[mimöschen]

Most dual mods do stepdown only, because there is no real voltage regulator. Only a buckcircuit.

 

[KenD]

Most dual mods do stepdown only, because there is no real voltage regulator. Only a buckcircuit.

Yes indeed, but the batteries will still provide the voltage they do, no more and no less than their current charge (not accounting for voltage drop). The circuitry of the mod regulates that voltage by drawing more or less current. Thus the amp draw is always identical at a specific wattage, regardless of the coil resistance (not accounting for the regulation efficiency at different buck - or boost, if available - stages).

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