Wizard EVOLVED

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mark78

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I'm vaping at 14W @ 1.2 ohm resistance, i'm not getting that long.. :(

Is it okay to use non AW IMR batteries in the WAE since the dna20 is regulated?

We can recomand only what tha DNA20 data sheet said: IMR batts and the WE/WAE are build to fit perfectly with AW IMR.
 

blindsoup

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Blu,
I am vaping arround 10W and my batts 18500 are lasting 6-8 hours at 2.3-2.5 ohm

Hey Mark - the website shows to use "- M - for 18490 batteries" , you posted that you are using 18500. I noticed that AW makes both sizes. Will they both fit, and if so, which ones do you recommend? This is for the Wizard Evolved 18500.
 
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ronpaek100

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I just recieved a Russian 91% v1 and it was a struggle but it barely screwed onto my WAE.. I had some trouble had to rethread and thread it on for ten minutes.. did anyone else have a problem with a russian 91% the v2 didn't even screw on at all, it got stuck and took me a couple hours of brute force with rubber gloves to eventually get them off.
 

mark78

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Hey Mark - the website shows to use "- M - for 18490 batteries" , you posted that you are using 18500. I noticed that AW makes both sizes. Will they both fit, and if so, which ones do you recommend? This is for the Wizard Evolved 18500.

Yes, I was talking about 18490 the ones without protection.
 

CABBA

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My Russian 91% mated flawlessly on top of my WAE. The finish is a spot on match. If only it were 21mm. But it looks and vapes excellently.


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ronpaek100

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My Russian 91% mated flawlessly on top of my WAE. The finish is a spot on match. If only it were 21mm. But it looks and vapes excellently.


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That's so weird.. I just recieved a v1 russian 91% from congrevape and even that one had a little problem screwing on that to my WAE, took me 10 minutes, but eventually got it to screw on. The v2 got stuck halfway and I spent 3 hours trying to pry it off with rubber gloves, eventually I got it off. I wondering if i'm just getting defective Russians :/

Sending the v2 back to kidney puncher to replace the base..
 

ronpaek100

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what drip tip are you using? I checked both the drip tip adapters for the v1 and v2 and they both are very sharp, when I put on my vapelab drip tip it ripped one of my o-rings which made me very sad.. I don't know why they don't make the adapter with smooth edges..
 

CABBA

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what drip tip are you using? I checked both the drip tip adapters for the v1 and v2 and they both are very sharp, when I put on my vapelab drip tip it ripped one of my o-rings which made me very sad.. I don't know why they don't make the adapter with smooth edges..

The drip tip I'm using is called:
Super T Widemouth "Original Shorty" T-tip - Satin Plus

I got it from Cloud 9. No such issues for me with my drip tip adapter. It's not smooth, but I have no issues getting tips in or out of it.

bydazy4y.jpg



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ronpaek100

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The drip tip I'm using is called:
Super T Widemouth "Original Shorty" T-tip - Satin Plus

I got it from Cloud 9. No such issues for me with my drip tip adapter. It's not smooth, but I have no issues getting tips in or out of it.

bydazy4y.jpg



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Thanks i'm going to place an order for some drip tips in satin :)
 
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CABBA

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Thanks i'm going to place an order for some drip tips in satin :)

Right on. I think the Satin finish works really well with the Russian. And the shorty is also cool.

So far all I have that is seamlessly (i.e. 21mm diameter) is the Aqua by UVO Systems. It vapes really nice as well on top of the WAE (dual micro-coil @ 1.1 ohms).

usyjutem.jpg


Top filling has really helped me get it to perform better (no gurgle after filling) and also 30AWG kanthal instead of 28AWG made coiling it easier. Taste and vapor is on par with the KFL+ or the Russian 91% (all with cotton wicks). Not being able to see the juice level is a bit of a nuisance though. Please Mark Bugs, come out with a 21mm Kayfun style topper.


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ronpaek100

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Right on. I think the Satin finish works really well with the Russian. And the shorty is also cool.

So far all I have that is seamlessly (i.e. 21mm diameter) is the Aqua by UVO Systems. It vapes really nice as well on top of the WAE (dual micro-coil @ 1.1 ohms).

usyjutem.jpg


Top filling has really helped me get it to perform better (no gurgle after filling) and also 30AWG kanthal instead of 28AWG made coiling it easier. Taste and vapor is on par with the KFL+ or the Russian 91% (all with cotton wicks). Not being able to see the juice level is a bit of a nuisance though. Please Mark Bugs, come out with a 21mm Kayfun style topper.


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how's the battery life with that aqua with dual coil, can you vape the whole tank before the battery needs to be replaced? and how come 30g kanthal made coiling easier, sorry i have an aqua too so I was wondering cause it was annoying for me to set up last night so it's been just resting on the shelf.
 

CABBA

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how's the battery life with that aqua with dual coil, can you vape the whole tank before the battery needs to be replaced? and how come 30g kanthal made coiling easier, sorry i have an aqua too so I was wondering cause it was annoying for me to set up last night so it's been just resting on the shelf.

Well to be honest i think 1 x 18490 is pretty close to vaping one Aqua tank with the WAE. The DNA 20 has a tendency to use some battery even when the device is not in use so in the best case scenario straight vaping time i would say that i can burn one tank with one battery. I do think that the the Aqua dual coil setup consumes more battery than for example my Russian 91% single coil. Just how much its difficult to quantify since the Aqua tank is smaller, and i cant see hoe much juice is in there and because the Aqua seems to consume more juice per vape than the russian/KFL setup. I don't feel that the Aqua generates significantly more vapor than the Russian/KFL its quite similar and i actually think that the Russian/KFL are less sensitive and produce more consistent vapor. Not knowing how much liquid is in the Aqua generally causes me to open and fill it whenever i have a moment since i don't want it to run dry. When i fill it i change out the battery and that's normally good for me for one day albeit its not the only device i'm using for the day. Sorry that i couldn't provide a more definitive answer, its just so hard to quantify.

With regards to your other question, "why do i think that the 30AWG kanthal made it easier to install the coils?", that is because i found that the wire being slightly thinner made it easier to get the coils wrapped around the screws when working in the tight confines that is the Aqua deck. When i first got it, i tried 28AWG kanthal and it seems quite a bit harder for me to get the 4 coil wires wrapped around the 2 screws, it took me forever to get the wires fixed in position. Note that i built it both times with micro-coils (targeting a resistance of about 2 ohm per coil, for a final resistance of 1ohm). Also the 30AWG allowed me to go with a couple of wraps less per coil. i think i went with about 8 wraps or something like that with the 30 gauge but it was a few weeks ago now. for my russian/KFL+ i'm giong with about 6/7 wraps with 28AWG kanthal.
 
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