Woodvils finish sanded pics

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redeyedancer

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which wood would be best for me since I injured the last 2.... Rob? Or would You suggest I stick with the metals? lol
You over saturated your mods with oil and they were softer woods that can really absorb oil . I don't think you would have had issues like you did if you wouldn't have done that . The whole idea is to seal the wood not drown it lol .
I am a big fan of cocobolo myself I love jatoba as well . I would stay away from softer wood if you decide to go down the wood mod road again . I plan to do a how to maintain a wood mod video before I release this next run of wood mods for those that don't no how to maintain them
 

redeyedancer

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Gives character to the wood, each imperfection created by nature gives each piece of wood its own special look. Have to love it, wood over resin for me at the moment. (nature vs. man made)
I agree with you but some folks email after they buy one about imperfections in the wood expecting a burl mod to be like a metal mod perfect . I say its wood its suppose to be like that . You would be surprised how little some people no about wood .
 

chohan

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I am a big fan of cocobolo myself I love jatoba as well . I would stay away from softer wood if you decide to go down the wood mod road again . I plan to do a how to maintain a wood mod video before I release this next run of wood mods for those that don't no how to maintain them

What about bubinga? Are there any bubinga woodvils this time around and if so, where does it land on the scale... softest to hardest woods?
 

rob33

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Not sure of the reason behind the question, so I'll through this in. Hardness does not equal toughness in all cases. Some of the harder woods are more likely to crack when dropped than their softer counterparts.

So much depends on the moisture content of the wood. You want it dry enough to be stable, but too dry the wood has trouble adjusting to the changing environment. This forces it to crack.
 

keepsmiling

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So much depends on the moisture content of the wood. You want it dry enough to be stable, but too dry the wood has trouble adjusting to the changing environment. This forces it to crack.
So what is the best thing to use to keep the wood conditioned? Some people say Howard's, Rob told me mineral oil to ward off moisture, since I am in Florida. I have had three woodvils, and have only kept this ebony one. The other two, one jatoba, and one maple/purple heart, had a lot of leftover flavor in them from previous use I did not care for.
 

Filthy-Beast

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So what is the best thing to use to keep the wood conditioned? Some people say Howard's, Rob told me mineral oil to ward off moisture, since I am in Florida. I have had three woodvils, and have only kept this ebony one. The other two, one jatoba, and one maple/purple heart, had a lot of leftover flavor in them from previous use I did not care for.
Either is fine, the key is too keep up a maintenance schedule of applying it at regular intervals. Mineral oil has been used as protector for a very long time. I use Howards Sun shield with UV protection because I have a Cocobolo that will lose its red hues over time and I'm trying to prolong the color, not an issue with ebony.

How often it's needed depends on how much use and handling the mod gets. You don't want to soak it in oil. Basically if a drop of water or wet hands hits the wood you want to be able to wipe it off before it soaks in. But you should be able to handle the mod without it feeling oily. For me in Chicago this works out to be about every two months for mods I use.

EDIT: Overtime the frequency and amount needed drops as a base is built up, when I first got my Woodvils they got it every month.
 
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redeyedancer

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FYI
The stabilized wood REOs don't require oil or polish but I use Howard's SunShield because I have some and the dyed wood can darken. :facepalm:
Not so Gil not all stabilized wood is created equally . Some stabilized wood I have seen will absorb lots of moister . This is one of the reason I picked up the equipment to do it myself . Some guys sell quality stabilized wood and some guys don't take the time to do it right Or its hit or miss . I am just learning the trade myself but I can tell already when a piece was rushed
 

redeyedancer

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Either is fine, the key is too keep up a maintenance schedule of applying it at regular intervals. Mineral oil has been used as protector for a very long time. I use Howards Sun shield with UV protection because I have a Cocobolo that will lose its red hues over time and I'm trying to prolong the color, not an issue with ebony.

How often it's needed depends on how much use and handling the mod gets. You don't want to soak it in oil. Basically if a drop of water or wet hands hits the wood you want to be able to wipe it off before it soaks in. But you should be able to handle the mod without it feeling oily. For me in Chicago this works out to be about every two months for mods I use.

EDIT: Overtime the frequency and amount needed drops as a base is built up, when I first got my Woodvils they got it every month.
Spot on as always
 

penguiness

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I agree with you but some folks email after they buy one about imperfections in the wood expecting a burl mod to be like a metal mod perfect . I say its wood its suppose to be like that . You would be surprised how little some people no about wood .

Those are not imperfections, they are the characteristics that make it unique.
 
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