Could that be because it's over wicking? I use Rayon, and found that I have to get the wick pretty darn tight in the coil. I'll get enough rayon in there and have to pull on both ends to kinda stretch it out to get it thru.
Wotofo Serpent Mini
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Could that be because it's over wicking? I use Rayon, and found that I have to get the wick pretty darn tight in the coil. I'll get enough rayon in there and have to pull on both ends to kinda stretch it out to get it thru.
I have four of them, two in rotation atm. I haven't had any problems with leaking or dry hits. Well except once, when my wick was too short. I usually use a 24ga SS316L 3mm .4ohm coil with enough cotton to be just shy of the bottom of the juice channels. I typically vape in TC @ 25 - 30w, 450F. Relatively easy to build & wick... for me. 
I have four of them, two in rotation atm. I haven't had any problems with leaking or dry hits. Well except once, when my wick was too short. I usually use a 24ga SS316L 3mm .4ohm coil with enough cotton to be just shy of the bottom of the juice channels. I typically vape in TC @ 25 - 30w, 450F. Relatively easy to build & wick... for me.
I find that length works best for me also.
Okay. However a seal may have been a possible reject, but not removed. It may have held a tank of juice at first then leaked. Dump juice back in bottle and clean the tank and replace both seals. I had to for a g.mini once. Hope this helps.
Thanks @davevape55 ....you might be right. It seems the only tanks I've never had to change orings or anything on has been my STM. I have about 4 or 5 of those tanks over a year old with original rings.
Your welcome buddy.. I wonder myself at times when a device works a short time, then fails. No worries, have a good day!
Hi, great thread and discussion about the SM here. I have a few thoughts and suggestions/comments to add.
I picked one up a couple weeks ago, and was really impressed, it's my new main tank. I've been out of the loop for awhile and wanted to try a subohm tank, something that will let me run a thick DIY dripper type juice, I did a bunch of testing on 100%VG occasionally adding only a few drops of flavour to 30ml or so, so very thick stuff (SM works great on thinner juice too btw). I still run a mech mod and see no reason to change. The builds I've been testing on are in the range of .2 - .4 ohms so that puts me in a range of 40-88Watts on a fresh battery. In general this atty seems to work best with cotton, but even with the high heat and thick juice builds when the air is wide open it can't keep up. So I started trying hemp fiber, which was actually worse in this atty until I started using the "pancake method" of wicking. Now I'm running thick juice, high heat, airflow wide open, hemp wick and it's keeping up like a champ. I'd like to add there's no gurgles or leaking and after removing the top cap to fill still no leaks or gurgles.
Consider trying the pancake method if you're getting dry hits, leaks, etc. Might want to try larger diameter build too as has already been discussed, I'm having great success with 3mm with lots of cotton to spread and fluff out, and is probably a good idea because the wicks do get cut even shorter using this method.
I picked one up a couple weeks ago, and was really impressed, it's my new main tank. I've been out of the loop for awhile and wanted to try a subohm tank, something that will let me run a thick DIY dripper type juice, I did a bunch of testing on 100%VG occasionally adding only a few drops of flavour to 30ml or so, so very thick stuff (SM works great on thinner juice too btw). I still run a mech mod and see no reason to change. The builds I've been testing on are in the range of .2 - .4 ohms so that puts me in a range of 40-88Watts on a fresh battery. In general this atty seems to work best with cotton, but even with the high heat and thick juice builds when the air is wide open it can't keep up. So I started trying hemp fiber, which was actually worse in this atty until I started using the "pancake method" of wicking. Now I'm running thick juice, high heat, airflow wide open, hemp wick and it's keeping up like a champ. I'd like to add there's no gurgles or leaking and after removing the top cap to fill still no leaks or gurgles.
Consider trying the pancake method if you're getting dry hits, leaks, etc. Might want to try larger diameter build too as has already been discussed, I'm having great success with 3mm with lots of cotton to spread and fluff out, and is probably a good idea because the wicks do get cut even shorter using this method.
I bet I missed this but does anyone know what that size is for the screws that trap the leads? I just stripped the first one after having this RTA for four months and I want to order some now before I am short replacements.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I've gotten it to wick better after several attempts. I found that you can't have 'em go too deep in the well or it will act as a dam. I don't attempt to hit it in quick succession because like you found that it often has trouble keeping up with cotton. But since it's a small tank that's OK in my book. My view of it has improved somewhat but i think there are better ones out there.... Like the Mage. Wotofo claims 3 ml juice capacity just .5 mil under the Mage but I don't believe it. Wicks much better and you can hit it with impunity.
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I'm thinking there 2.5 cup point(stainless) set screw . You may want to order some 2.0 also (just in case). McMaster Carr has them. Also an app on playstore android. Type in McMaster Carr. I ordered 2.0,2.5,3.0 stainless cups. Hope this helps.
The mage is a larger diameter tank at 24mm so that's out of the question for me, also mage is a dual coil design. The pancake method is how the SM should be wicked (IMO) if using thick VG and relatively higher wattage while chain vaping. I'm surprised it's not been brought up already but I guess with the single coil design there's more interest in battery life and MTL. Yes even if you drape the wick above the juice hole and fan it out on the base it does not keep up the way the pancake method does from my experience. I think the thinner cotton on the base and really fluffed out cotton does very well to let the juice flow and soak it all up.
How I've been doing it is gently pulling the wick to the smaller post edge and cutting the wick on an angle (horizontally) from the edge of the small post out to center, about the same angle as to parallel the outer face of the small post (the wick should flush to the outer vertical edge of that smaller post so as you screw on clockwise it doesn't pull the wick away) so as you fan/fluff out the wick you'll find the longer strands naturally go to meet the outer vertical edge of the far thicker post and the lower strands just sit on the base of the build deck, this leaves plenty of room for the juice to flow up and not disturb the wick so much as you screw on the chimney. It also fills in airspace as you fluff upward for those looking to decrease the volume of the air chamber. I find this method to be even easier than trying to get the tails just right and not stuffing too much wick too far down the juice hole etc... and I seem to get better results.
I have four of them, two in rotation atm. I haven't had any problems with leaking or dry hits. Well except once, when my wick was too short. I usually use a 24ga SS316L 3mm .4ohm coil with enough cotton to be just shy of the bottom of the juice channels. I typically vape in TC @ 25 - 30w, 450F. Relatively easy to build & wick... for me.
I am using 24g kantha with a 3mm diameter and 5 wraps... first build was a 2.5mm id but 3mm works way better when it comes to wicking.
I agree re: the ID. I use 28g Kanthal A1 most the time. I use A1 on steaks most the time too.
I use A1 on steaks most the time too.
So... you're secretly a wannabe vegan?
If you don't like the taste of steak... don't eat it.
Slightly off topic, but I just discovered that Wotofo makes a Serpent clearomizer that takes Kanger Subtank Mini coils.
I never fell in love with the STM (Noisy bugger & I always hated not being able to completely vape a tank, being that the wick holes sit so high in it and it looks like the Serpent clearo allows the holes to sit lower in the tank), so I am picking up a black and a stainless steel to use with the Kanger coils and RBAs that are sitting here un-loved.
I never fell in love with the STM (Noisy bugger & I always hated not being able to completely vape a tank, being that the wick holes sit so high in it and it looks like the Serpent clearo allows the holes to sit lower in the tank), so I am picking up a black and a stainless steel to use with the Kanger coils and RBAs that are sitting here un-loved.
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