So I got my Triton about a week ago, to step it up from the G6, great decision! I have watched numerous vids on dry burning, maintenance ect, but could not find any on specifically dry burning the Halo Triton. I am going to change tanks soon, but would like some tips before I start to do what other vids have showed me, just in case there is something different with this model of clearomizer that I might come across. In cleaning, I am going to disassemble everything and wash under cold water, then allow the parts to dry. Afterwards I am going to start the process of dry burning the coils to remove and gunk on the coils. in this, do I take the rubber stopper off the atomizer or leave it on. The process seems quite simple, but like I said, I want to know if anything in my process is flawed or could be improved upon or added.
Would like some tips on Dry Burning a Halo Triton
- Thread starter jUsoNeaZn
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'm not to familiar with dry burning the tritons. But I do know if you take both wicks out, it's very difficult to to reinsert the bottom one as it passes thru the coil. There is a sticky/pinned post in the halo sub forum on tank maintenance and cleaning. I'd highly recommend checking there. I also don't believe you can dry burn unless all the wicks are removed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Again, there are several old threads dealing with this exact issue. Do some searching!
There is no need to remove the bottom wick.
I usually take the head apart before rinsing, then a soak in distilled water. Take the condom off, the top flavor wick out and the little silver top to the head off. When your parts are dry, take the coil/bottom wick piece and screw it into the tank. It doesn't matter where the wick is, mine point up. It's all coming out again anyway. Give the coil short 2 to 3 second hits. blow any ash out, and repeat a few times. I usually go 3 or 4 times, but more if I really gunked one up. You should be able to see the coil start to glow. That's why you take out the little top. Don't hold the button till it's bright orange!!
Then I take it out and rinse it again. I don't like the burnt off ash flavor. When dry, place the flavor wick on top, then the little silver cap, then the condom.
I usually taste the ends of my wick to see how clean they are. If I taste the old juice, it needs better rinsing/soaking. If not, wetting just the tips makes it easier to get it back into the tank.
There is no need to remove the bottom wick.
I usually take the head apart before rinsing, then a soak in distilled water. Take the condom off, the top flavor wick out and the little silver top to the head off. When your parts are dry, take the coil/bottom wick piece and screw it into the tank. It doesn't matter where the wick is, mine point up. It's all coming out again anyway. Give the coil short 2 to 3 second hits. blow any ash out, and repeat a few times. I usually go 3 or 4 times, but more if I really gunked one up. You should be able to see the coil start to glow. That's why you take out the little top. Don't hold the button till it's bright orange!!
Then I take it out and rinse it again. I don't like the burnt off ash flavor. When dry, place the flavor wick on top, then the little silver cap, then the condom.
I usually taste the ends of my wick to see how clean they are. If I taste the old juice, it needs better rinsing/soaking. If not, wetting just the tips makes it easier to get it back into the tank.
Wanted to add this. If you take the bottom wick out, be gentle with the coil. Look at how the coils are before you monkey with it. (or refer to a known good coil) You can dry burn without the wick. Don't hold the button too long, you don't want to melt the grommets.
Make sure the coil isn't touching the sides of the chimney. If it does, chances are it'll short out, and your battery will give the 4 or 5 blinks. (good old Halo protection!)
When you reinsert the wick, take some plumbers teflon tape. Attach it to the end and twist it thin. Use it to thread through the coil. After the wick is in, again, make sure the coil is spaced out nice.
There's some good pics of this in this good thread made by Joe13. Even if you never rebuild a Triton coil, this thread is worth reading through...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/halo/545751-triton-coil-complete-rebuild.html
Make sure the coil isn't touching the sides of the chimney. If it does, chances are it'll short out, and your battery will give the 4 or 5 blinks. (good old Halo protection!)
When you reinsert the wick, take some plumbers teflon tape. Attach it to the end and twist it thin. Use it to thread through the coil. After the wick is in, again, make sure the coil is spaced out nice.
There's some good pics of this in this good thread made by Joe13. Even if you never rebuild a Triton coil, this thread is worth reading through...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/halo/545751-triton-coil-complete-rebuild.html
I've done the dry burn; it's routine to me now.
Get the coil to where it starts to glow orange, but don't push it much past that; you could burn the coil itself (and while it can be rebuilt, making your own coil is a test of patience that only a handful have attempted). 2-3 seconds max, usually does it. Repeat as necessary, then rinse out again (to get rid of the aforementioned burnt taste). Oh yeah, rinse out the tank too.
I do these in batches, as I rotate through ~15 coils (and 7 tanks), so I can do this once per month. It's a chore, but a simple exercise to avoid buying many more coils (time is money).
Get some spare wick (2mm silica); sold by the foot on eBay (or your "other" juice store). Replace the top wick (aka "flavor wick") whenever you see fit. As clean as you make them, they get nasty, and never work quite as well as a fresh wick. Alternatively, 2mm Ekowool doesn't fray (it's braided), but costs a bit more.
Get the coil to where it starts to glow orange, but don't push it much past that; you could burn the coil itself (and while it can be rebuilt, making your own coil is a test of patience that only a handful have attempted). 2-3 seconds max, usually does it. Repeat as necessary, then rinse out again (to get rid of the aforementioned burnt taste). Oh yeah, rinse out the tank too.
I do these in batches, as I rotate through ~15 coils (and 7 tanks), so I can do this once per month. It's a chore, but a simple exercise to avoid buying many more coils (time is money).
Get some spare wick (2mm silica); sold by the foot on eBay (or your "other" juice store). Replace the top wick (aka "flavor wick") whenever you see fit. As clean as you make them, they get nasty, and never work quite as well as a fresh wick. Alternatively, 2mm Ekowool doesn't fray (it's braided), but costs a bit more.
Last edited:
BigBen, you'd be proud of me. I was sent an old bad tank from a friend. The chimney was loose in the base, and the center conductor broke from twisting to try to screw on a coil.
So, I cut the plastic tank, soldered in a new center conductor, and now I have a tank base used to dry burn! Works great, and I hate the residual smell of dry burning with a good tank.
(I should post pics of this mutant tank!)
So, I cut the plastic tank, soldered in a new center conductor, and now I have a tank base used to dry burn! Works great, and I hate the residual smell of dry burning with a good tank.
(I should post pics of this mutant tank!)
Last edited:
I had a leaking tank and I cut the tank part off so I now have a post that is easy to dry burn coils on and alot easier to see the coil. 
I had a leaking tank and I cut the tank part off so I now have a post that is easy to dry burn coils on and alot easier to see the coil.
Let's see the MacGyver'd tanks!! I love re-tasking in fact look at this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...58733-macgyver-household-items-re-tasked.html
it's already been mentioned, but I'll add another point, because I love saying the word grommet.
you don't want to heat the coil up too much because you can burn the rubber grommet.
it's mostly hidden, but there is a rubber insulating grommet inside the head, and heat via convection can
run down the wires sitting inside the rubber grommet and burn it.
the burnt rubber grommet can taint the flavour.
rubber grommet
grommet
so pulse the coil, and let cool down between pulses
you don't want to heat the coil up too much because you can burn the rubber grommet.
it's mostly hidden, but there is a rubber insulating grommet inside the head, and heat via convection can
run down the wires sitting inside the rubber grommet and burn it.
the burnt rubber grommet can taint the flavour.
rubber grommet
grommet
so pulse the coil, and let cool down between pulses
- Status
Similar threads
