My "luck" with getting things stuck in Seatbelt...... I dunno, but I sure love those fanny little heat sinkie things!
xvostick clone any owners?
- Thread starter SLvapor
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I need some soldering help from someone who has done the DNA40 swap into the clownstick.
I actually started this project a few days ago but got sidetracked with work.
Where I am at right now is I have everything desoldered and im ready to solder the DNA40, however I am unsure about the clownstick pin layout.
This is what was inside when I opened it :
Since I cant get the button module to open, I dont know where each of the wires go. Does anyone know if the pin layout of the clone board is the same as the DNA40?
If I wire it up to the DNA40 just like the clone board, will I have issues?
Thanks for any help
I actually started this project a few days ago but got sidetracked with work.
Where I am at right now is I have everything desoldered and im ready to solder the DNA40, however I am unsure about the clownstick pin layout.
This is what was inside when I opened it :
Since I cant get the button module to open, I dont know where each of the wires go. Does anyone know if the pin layout of the clone board is the same as the DNA40?
If I wire it up to the DNA40 just like the clone board, will I have issues?
Thanks for any help
@illitirit there's a full breakdown in the real Xvostick thread from someone who just replaced the board. The button assy has to be lifted on one side then the other side comes out allowing the whole assy to be serviced.
OMG after 7 hours of fiddling and second guessing myself, it finally happened.
I have not had the chance to even try if it works, I just saw the screen light up and thats okay for me. All the buttons work. Im going to have to check whether or not it even fires tomorrow. This project drained me lol.
Nonetheless, i have learned some pretty cool stuff and I am happy I did it.
I have not had the chance to even try if it works, I just saw the screen light up and thats okay for me. All the buttons work. Im going to have to check whether or not it even fires tomorrow. This project drained me lol.
Nonetheless, i have learned some pretty cool stuff and I am happy I did it.
OMG after 7 hours of fiddling and second guessing myself, it finally happened.
I have not had the chance to even try if it works, I just saw the screen light up and thats okay for me. All the buttons work. Im going to have to check whether or not it even fires tomorrow. This project drained me lol.
Nonetheless, i have learned some pretty cool stuff and I am happy I did it.
OK got my hands on some GM V2's....and what do you know...with the heatsink I mentioned it's a perfect fit. Only the topfill sticks out, just the way you want it.
Some pics:
Lucky you. I just wired up a dna 30 in there myself had it all working. Took me all day. I noticed the screen was a bit wonky. So I tried to adjust it and cracked the screen. Now its completely black and I can read anything. So it looks like Im out to but another dna board.OMG after 7 hours of fiddling and second guessing myself, it finally happened.
I have not had the chance to even try if it works, I just saw the screen light up and thats okay for me. All the buttons work. Im going to have to check whether or not it even fires tomorrow. This project drained me lol.
Nonetheless, i have learned some pretty cool stuff and I am happy I did it.
Actually my friend, I CRACKED MY SCREEN TOO LOL.
I was so mad. I had it all working, everything back together but I had the stupid idea of hotgluing my screen in because I wanted it to stay in place a bit better. After hotgluing the screen in, while I was screwing the bottom plate back in, all of a sudden I heard a crack. One of my positive wires was sticking behind the screen pushing it up against the baseplate while i was screwing it in. Really my soul took a dive at that point lol.
My device still works 100% good. I purchased a replacement DNA screen and will try my luck soldering on a new screen. It doesnt seem as easy as the board. But hopefully all will turn out well. I recieve the replacement screen tomorrow. I will update what happnens.
damn i didn't get to your previous posts fast enough. i was going to tell you the wiring is an exact layout of the authentic 40. i was also going to tell you when gluing your screen in place, since the screen ribbon is shorter than the clones, make sure nothing is in the way when screwing down face plate. if it doesn't sit flush when placing the plate, without screws, (test fit) DON'T put screws in. i almost did the same thing. you might have better luck just asking evolv for a replacement regardless if it was your fault. resoldering screens can be tricky. evolv has been good to me with all of my "self inflicted screen failures."
Out of curiosity can you fit the Large screen DNA40 in this with an enlargement of the cutout? Sounds pretty tight under that plate with all this crunching going on. Is it small screen only recommended?
i just layed a large screen over the bottom of my clown stick to see. it seems the chance of cracking the screen doubles if not triples i trying fit a large screen. looks like where the ribbon meets the glass of the large screen would get crushed by the batt positive connection. not saying impossible but there would need to be some modifications done to the internals, batt wiring, to get it to fit. i'd stick with the small (.69). mines still chugging along. awesome tiny mod. well worth the $35 evolv 40 swap.
Mine is awaiting FT fulfillment now. Really wish Evolv would program up the 40s with an adjustable TCR at least but in absense of that I have 2 small screen 40s waiting for a home.
i'm with ya 100% on the tcr for the 40. keep it simple like the sxk "nickel purity" setup 10-100.
While I agree it would be nice if Evolve added or updated the DNA 40 it seems unlikely with the new DNA 75 coming out. FWIW, I've been running SS 316L on all of my DNA 40's in temp control with no problems at all. I've also run Ti with no issues as well as Ni200 (obviously)
Aware the 40s work with some wires with temperature offsets. Evolv should adjust the programming to correct this offset and at least try keep the product somewhat current.
Failure to do so serves no one well. Chinese companies are doing it cheaper and better than the 40s and Evolv must learn that they need to take steps to be competitive.
Failure to do so serves no one well. Chinese companies are doing it cheaper and better than the 40s and Evolv must learn that they need to take steps to be competitive.
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