xvostick clone any owners?

[AtmizrOpin]

Aware the 40s work with some wires with temperature offsets. Evolv should adjust the programming to correct this offset and at least try keep the product somewhat current.

Failure to do so serves no one well. Chinese companies are doing it cheaper and better than the 40s and Evolv must learn that they need to take steps to be competitive.

only thing is, i doubt evolv will do anything for the 40 now that the 75 has come out - single cell, escribe. the 40 is now the like the 30. some still find those two boards relevant and fun for transplants, me included. i just don't ever see evolv updating older boards, just coming out with new ones.
i honestly don't know, when the 75 drops, if i'll even get one. i have enough 200's to more than make up for inadequate lipo capacity (excluding my reuleaux). it would be a step back for me getting a 75. i dunno i probably will get one, why not right?

 

[Tpat591]

only thing is, i doubt evolv will do anything for the 40 now that the 75 has come out - single cell, escribe. the 40 is now the like the 30. some still find those two boards relevant and fun for transplants, me included. i just don't ever see evolv updating older boards, just coming out with new ones.
i honestly don't know, when the 75 drops, if i'll even get one. i have enough 200's to more than make up for inadequate lipo capacity (excluding my reuleaux). it would be a step back for me getting a 75. i dunno i probably will get one, why not right?

With the 75 being in all probability the same size as the 200, the smaller format of the 40s is still extremely relevant in smaller mods like these and at least deserves a firmware upgrade. Perhaps more hardware is necessary for a TCR option but smaller mods like these warrant the 40s upgrade in one form or another IMO.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

With the 75 being in all probability the same size as the 200, the smaller format of the 40s is still extremely relevant in smaller mods like these and at least deserves a firmware upgrade. Perhaps more hardware is necessary for a TCR option but smaller mods like these warrant the 40s upgrade in one form or another IMO.

i think the 40 can be bumped up to 60-70 watts with TCR with minimal if any hardware changes. re-tune the firmware and possibly a different inductor and output caps. you figure, on the 40 board, one side is the engine and the other brains. don't get me wrong, i still find the 40 handy for exactly what you mentioned. i am dying to see the board layout of the 75 tho. it should be a little smaller than the 200. you figure no need for balance charging, so gone is host controlled analog front end of the board (battery monitoring ic). this board will also be a synchronous buck boost. so i'm also curious to see the inductor/mosfet layout. since they used a dual synchro buck on the 200. sorry, i could go on and on. lol i'm derailing this thread something stupid. sorry again.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

While I agree it would be nice if Evolve added or updated the DNA 40 it seems unlikely with the new DNA 75 coming out. FWIW, I've been running SS 316L on all of my DNA 40's in temp control with no problems at all. I've also run Ti with no issues as well as Ni200 (obviously)

when you say running ss316 on your 40, do you mean temp controlling 316 with the 40? that can't be working practically. you figure .0060 for nickel and .00092 for 316. is it actually protecting you from burning your cotton/dry hits?

 

[fishwater]

when you say running ss316 on your 40, do you mean temp controlling 316 with the 40? that can't be working practically. you figure .0060 for nickel and .00092 for 316. is it actually protecting you from burning your cotton/dry hits?

It's works perfectly, no dry hits & does not burn my cotton. I wasn't having any luck until I switched over to spaced coils. Once I started doing spaced coils I've had no issues with SS 316L in my tanks or drippers. Here's a build I did yesterday in my Hobo 3.1 on top of my Infinity squonker which is an Italian made mod with a DNA 40. I've since replaced the build with a twisted 28awg SS 316L on the same atomizer & mod.

 

[fishwater]

I just vapes this one dry, no burnt hits or singed cotton. This build comes in at .73 ohm's, I find anywhere between .5-.9 works best for TC with SS on the DNA 40.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I just vapes this one dry, no burnt hits or singed cotton. This build comes in at .73 ohm's, I find anywhere between .5-.9 works best for TC with SS on the DNA 40.
View attachment 543207

do you have to bottom out the temp? as in take it all the way down to 200°F just to have it not burn the cotton.

 

[Tpat591]

i think the 40 can be bumped up to 60-70 watts with TCR with minimal if any hardware changes. re-tune the firmware and possibly a different inductor and output caps. you figure, on the 40 board, one side is the engine and the other brains. don't get me wrong, i still find the 40 handy for exactly what you mentioned. i am dying to see the board layout of the 75 tho. it should be a little smaller than the 200. you figure no need for balance charging, so gone is host controlled analog front end of the board (battery monitoring ic). this board will also be a synchronous buck boost. so i'm also curious to see the inductor/mosfet layout. since they used a dual synchro buck on the 200. sorry, i could go on and on. lol i'm derailing this thread something stupid. sorry again.

Not to continue to derail but if the rumors were true about them possibly allowing a 2S functionality on the 75 (for a 133) they may actually have left some balanced charging and just removed one of the inductors & added the boost circuitry in its place. It would make sense to keep a 2s capability working backward to a 75 from a 200 design. Think it will be same size as 200s due to the desire to keep costs down by re-using programming tables and other expensive custom support equipment developed for the 200 for dual use with the 75. Even making it more narrow would probably cause difficulty reusing these specialty equipment pieces made for the 200 on the 75 but it might have been cost effective if they could get 6 or 12 more boards out of a sheet by doing so. All that is just speculation.

Sorry for the OT Reply. Please continue with your regularly scheduled program.

 

[fishwater]

do you have to bottom out the temp? as in take it all the way down to 200°F just to have it not burn the cotton.

Nope, it's at 430f, 31w & no issues.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Nope, it's at 430f, 31w & no issues.

i dunno, i'm gonna have speriment with SS on one of my 40's. i just don't see 430f being anywhere close to an actual 430. maybe closer to 630, if not way higher lol. will report back to you with my results in a PM rather than in this thread.

 

[Tpat591]

i dunno, i'm gonna have speriment with SS on one of my 40's. i just don't see 430f being anywhere close to an actual 430. maybe closer to 630, if not way higher lol. will report back to you with my results in a PM rather than in this thread.

Do it in the thread. Inquiring minds here might like to also be in on your results!

 

[fishwater]

If no one else minds I'd like to see your results as well since I don't have the desire to test it. It's working for me but in the name of science it would be nice to know.

 

[illitirit]

After replacing my the chip to DNA40 and cracking my screen, I replaced the screen alone last night thanks to jmarkus help. I absolutely feel a big sense of accomplishment. If someone wanted to trade me an authentic xvostick vs my clownstick, I would say no thank you. There just something about making it and fixing it with your own two hands I dont think I can put a price on.

Soldering the new screen on was not as hard as putting the screen in without breaking it. I honestly never want to try to get that screen in again. There is barely any space to maneuver your hands while getting everything square.

A few things I found out that maybe can help others in the future performing the chip swap :

1) Pin layout of the clone board is exactly the same as the DNA40. It is literally a 1:1 swap.

2) When soldering back on the battery connectors, make sure they have enough play in the lines otherwise
when you try to put the screen back on, the ribbon cable of the screen will force itself on these lines. This is
the reason for my first screen's crack.

3) Common knowledge but for some reason especially on this device, if your screwing something in and you feel the LEAST bit of resistance, STOP, you will break something if you keep going. Doesnt matter if for the screwing the screen plate or the two halves together, just dont force anything.

4) A vice and helping hands really made accomplishing all this alot easier, I have no idea how I would have gotten the screen back in square without help.

5) When putting the screen back in, the cable is going to fight you everystep of the way. For me it was easier to square up two corners then put pressure with my fingers to keep it there while putting hotglue on. My first mistake was using too little hotglue. After I applied liberally thats when it finally stayed.

I hope this can help someone in the future to save some headache as the entire process probably took me 6 hours the first time, then 3-4 the second time replacing the screen. That might be WAYYY too slow, but I work slow and carefully and make sure what im doing is correct.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Do it in the thread. Inquiring minds here might like to also be in on your results!

i'm not going to get super involved with the project but here's my setup and findings - i have a .35 ohm 24 gauge single coil in my delta 2 (i figured i'd dig it out and show it some love.). i put the tank on my VF dna 40. i put temp limit at 200°F. i hit the fire button to register the res and take a super short puff, then let sit untouched for 25 min. i did this to let refinement take the base res as low as it could take it (stayed at .35 regardless). i then locked the res and increased wattage to 35. i hit the fire button and i could see the temp climbing but in the low numbers (70, 90, 109). it jumped out of TC mid puff. hit fire button again, it stayed in TC but the temp read out never went over 160°. the actual vape was warm, so i'd guess it was really around 450-480, maybe. if i max the watts out (40) i still never get past 170-174°. at that wattage the actual vape is around 500-520, maybe.
so i can't really control the temp of my 24g SS build on my 40. maybe.....just maybe......dry hit prevention at best?? i find with SS the 40 gets confused on whether or not to stay in TC. my guess, because of the very low TCR value of SS 316. now i might have a better shot with SS 430 given its higher TCR value.
maybe the reason you're (@fishwater) having desirable results is because you're using thinner SS and a higher base res (your .73 vs. my.35, which would have a more appreciable climb in res than my build). are you using SS 430?

 

[AtmizrOpin]

After replacing my the chip to DNA40 and cracking my screen, I replaced the screen alone last night thanks to jmarkus help. I absolutely feel a big sense of accomplishment. If someone wanted to trade me an authentic xvostick vs my clownstick, I would say no thank you. There just something about making it and fixing it with your own two hands I dont think I can put a price on.

Soldering the new screen on was not as hard as putting the screen in without breaking it. I honestly never want to try to get that screen in again. There is barely any space to maneuver your hands while getting everything square.

A few things I found out that maybe can help others in the future performing the chip swap :

1) Pin layout of the clone board is exactly the same as the DNA40. It is literally a 1:1 swap.

2) When soldering back on the battery connectors, make sure they have enough play in the lines otherwise
when you try to put the screen back on, the ribbon cable of the screen will force itself on these lines. This is
the reason for my first screen's crack.

3) Common knowledge but for some reason especially on this device, if your screwing something in and you feel the LEAST bit of resistance, STOP, you will break something if you keep going. Doesnt matter if for the screwing the screen plate or the two halves together, just dont force anything.

4) A vice and helping hands really made accomplishing all this alot easier, I have no idea how I would have gotten the screen back in square without help.

5) When putting the screen back in, the cable is going to fight you everystep of the way. For me it was easier to square up two corners then put pressure with my fingers to keep it there while putting hotglue on. My first mistake was using too little hotglue. After I applied liberally thats when it finally stayed.

I hope this can help someone in the future to save some headache as the entire process probably took me 6 hours the first time, then 3-4 the second time replacing the screen. That might be WAYYY too slow, but I work slow and carefully and make sure what im doing is correct.

doesn't that clownstick feel extra special to you now that YOU made it that much more cooler. i totally get that feeling of "i built this and it is good".

 

[fishwater]

After replacing my the chip to DNA40 and cracking my screen, I replaced the screen alone last night thanks to jmarkus help. I absolutely feel a big sense of accomplishment. If someone wanted to trade me an authentic xvostick vs my clownstick, I would say no thank you. There just something about making it and fixing it with your own two hands I dont think I can put a price on.

Soldering the new screen on was not as hard as putting the screen in without breaking it. I honestly never want to try to get that screen in again. There is barely any space to maneuver your hands while getting everything square.

A few things I found out that maybe can help others in the future performing the chip swap :

1) Pin layout of the clone board is exactly the same as the DNA40. It is literally a 1:1 swap.

2) When soldering back on the battery connectors, make sure they have enough play in the lines otherwise
when you try to put the screen back on, the ribbon cable of the screen will force itself on these lines. This is
the reason for my first screen's crack.

3) Common knowledge but for some reason especially on this device, if your screwing something in and you feel the LEAST bit of resistance, STOP, you will break something if you keep going. Doesnt matter if for the screwing the screen plate or the two halves together, just dont force anything.

4) A vice and helping hands really made accomplishing all this alot easier, I have no idea how I would have gotten the screen back in square without help.

5) When putting the screen back in, the cable is going to fight you everystep of the way. For me it was easier to square up two corners then put pressure with my fingers to keep it there while putting hotglue on. My first mistake was using too little hotglue. After I applied liberally thats when it finally stayed.

I hope this can help someone in the future to save some headache as the entire process probably took me 6 hours the first time, then 3-4 the second time replacing the screen. That might be WAYYY too slow, but I work slow and carefully and make sure what im doing is correct.

That is awesome, thank you for the tips as I've been planning on replacing mine in the Clownstick at some point.

Nice headphone set up btw, which Schiit set up is that?

i'm not going to get super involved with the project but here's my setup and findings - i have a .35 ohm 24 gauge single coil in my delta 2 (i figured i'd dig it out and show it some love.). i put the tank on my VF dna 40. i put temp limit at 200°F. i hit the fire button to register the res and take a super short puff, then let sit untouched for 25 min. i did this to let refinement take the base res as low as it could take it (stayed at .35 regardless). i then locked the res and increased wattage to 35. i hit the fire button and i could see the temp climbing but in the low numbers (70, 90, 109). it jumped out of TC mid puff. hit fire button again, it stayed in TC but the temp read out never went over 160°. the actual vape was warm, so i'd guess it was really around 450-480, maybe. if i max the watts out (40) i still never get past 170-174°. at that wattage the actual vape is around 500-520, maybe.
so i can't really control the temp of my 24g SS build on my 40. maybe.....just maybe......dry hit prevention at best?? i find with SS the 40 gets confused on whether or not to stay in TC. my guess, because of the very low TCR value of SS 316. now i might have a better shot with SS 430 given its higher TCR value.
maybe the reason you're (@fishwater) having desirable results is because you're using thinner SS and a higher base res (your .73 vs. my.35, which would have a more appreciable climb in res than my build). are you using SS 430?

I'm running 316L & I do think higher resistance helps with these builds. I had a lot of trouble keeping the DNA 40's in temp mode with lower resistance builds. I've also found that using spaced coils helps.

 

[illitirit]

That is awesome, thank you for the tips as I've been planning on replacing mine in the Clownstick at some point.

Nice headphone set up btw, which Schiit set up is that?

Nothing special, just schiit modi 2 uber / magni 2 uber. Drives my Hifiman HE500 plenty well.

I do want to get a new setup but....im sure you know the world of headphones is not very good to our wallets. I have been drooling over an audeze LCD-x for almost a year.

 

[fishwater]

Nothing special, just schiit modi 2 uber / magni 2 uber. Drives my Hifiman HE500 plenty well.

I do want to get a new setup but....im sure you know the world of headphones is not very good to our wallets. I have been drooling over an audeze LCD-x for almost a year.

And some folks think a vape habit is tough on the wallet! I still use my Hifiman HE400 > iFi Audio Nano set up since I sold everything else to get off the audio merry go round for a little breather. I was spending more money on tubes than anything else for a little while.

 

[jmarkus]

After replacing my the chip to DNA40 and cracking my screen, I replaced the screen alone last night thanks to jmarkus help. I absolutely feel a big sense of accomplishment. If someone wanted to trade me an authentic xvostick vs my clownstick, I would say no thank you. There just something about making it and fixing it with your own two hands I dont think I can put a price on.

Soldering the new screen on was not as hard as putting the screen in without breaking it. I honestly never want to try to get that screen in again. There is barely any space to maneuver your hands while getting everything square.

A few things I found out that maybe can help others in the future performing the chip swap :

1) Pin layout of the clone board is exactly the same as the DNA40. It is literally a 1:1 swap.

2) When soldering back on the battery connectors, make sure they have enough play in the lines otherwise
when you try to put the screen back on, the ribbon cable of the screen will force itself on these lines. This is
the reason for my first screen's crack.

3) Common knowledge but for some reason especially on this device, if your screwing something in and you feel the LEAST bit of resistance, STOP, you will break something if you keep going. Doesnt matter if for the screwing the screen plate or the two halves together, just dont force anything.

4) A vice and helping hands really made accomplishing all this alot easier, I have no idea how I would have gotten the screen back in square without help.

5) When putting the screen back in, the cable is going to fight you everystep of the way. For me it was easier to square up two corners then put pressure with my fingers to keep it there while putting hotglue on. My first mistake was using too little hotglue. After I applied liberally thats when it finally stayed.

I hope this can help someone in the future to save some headache as the entire process probably took me 6 hours the first time, then 3-4 the second time replacing the screen. That might be WAYYY too slow, but I work slow and carefully and make sure what im doing is correct.

great job, mate!

 

[Tpat591]

After replacing my the chip to DNA40 and cracking my screen, I replaced the screen alone last night thanks to jmarkus help. I absolutely feel a big sense of accomplishment. If someone wanted to trade me an authentic xvostick vs my clownstick, I would say no thank you. There just something about making it and fixing it with your own two hands I dont think I can put a price on.

Soldering the new screen on was not as hard as putting the screen in without breaking it. I honestly never want to try to get that screen in again. There is barely any space to maneuver your hands while getting everything square.

A few things I found out that maybe can help others in the future performing the chip swap :

1) Pin layout of the clone board is exactly the same as the DNA40. It is literally a 1:1 swap.

2) When soldering back on the battery connectors, make sure they have enough play in the lines otherwise
when you try to put the screen back on, the ribbon cable of the screen will force itself on these lines. This is
the reason for my first screen's crack.

3) Common knowledge but for some reason especially on this device, if your screwing something in and you feel the LEAST bit of resistance, STOP, you will break something if you keep going. Doesnt matter if for the screwing the screen plate or the two halves together, just dont force anything.

4) A vice and helping hands really made accomplishing all this alot easier, I have no idea how I would have gotten the screen back in square without help.

5) When putting the screen back in, the cable is going to fight you everystep of the way. For me it was easier to square up two corners then put pressure with my fingers to keep it there while putting hotglue on. My first mistake was using too little hotglue. After I applied liberally thats when it finally stayed.

I hope this can help someone in the future to save some headache as the entire process probably took me 6 hours the first time, then 3-4 the second time replacing the screen. That might be WAYYY too slow, but I work slow and carefully and make sure what im doing is correct.

Nice job! No small task, especially in tight quarters! You earned a cold one & serious bragging rights for that!