Yes another Pro Tank II head rebuld thread

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bover907

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What I found was I ran the loose cotton thru my fingers like all the people in the many youtube videos did, and I made one end really tight while leaving the other end loose. I pulled the cotton thru just until it started to 'overstuff the wick, then backed it off a bit. I could tell how far to go by the cotton starting to tug at the coil, when that happened, I backed off a bit, and then trimmed the cotton, and primed it with a few drops of juice. I don't think it matters if you slightly over-roll the cotton, because it really puffs up when you put some liquid on it.

It's hard to explain, but you can tell if you don't have enough, if you can see a gap between the cotton and the notch in the atty body after you install the cap and rubber grommet. Like I said, it's hard to explain. Just some trial and error with the cotton. If you watehed a lot of rip trippers vids, it seems like he 'understuffs' the wicks, where as Candi McCann seems to overstuff the coil a little bit. I kind of stuffed my cotton between what those two do.
 

bover907

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I should also note that a properly tensioned and built micro coil is a lot harder to deform by overstuffing than one that the wraps aren't touching, or aren't wound tightly enough on. I started out with a 3 foot purchase of 31awg Kanthal from Kidney Puncher, but that didn't last long at all, and also, a 6 to 8 wrap mico is really narrow, even in the protank head. So I ordered a 50' spool of 30awg, since it's now evident that 10 wraps will fit more easily than I thought.
 

keonee

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What inside diameter do you use on your coil when using the p&c yarn????

And are you using RipTrippers guide for the Nautilus rebuild??? The one that he makes it a single coil???

Diameter is about 2mm.

I watched Rip Trippers video. Very easy to rebuild the Aspire Nautilus. I use a needle nose and wiggle the end off where the white rubber grommet is. Then make the coils and thread the yarn thru......

BUT....tonite I recoiled a dozen coils each for the Protank 2 and Aspire Nautilus using the Pre-Coiled Coils from FT....they worked perfect. Ordered 1.8 ohms pre-coiled coils and have been vaping for a few hours...works great.
 

MacTechVpr

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Steam engine says I'd need 12/11 wraps of 30 AWG kanthal around a 1/16" bit to get 1.8 ohms.

I consistently get 1.8 ohms from 8/7 wraps of 30 gauge around 1/16". I have a dedicated meter, as well as mods that also check resistance. Same readings on both.

I think calculators are a great guideline, but you really won't know what you'll get until you do it yourself.

I think I tend to agree with you Joe. I've yet to find a calculator that accurately accomplishes this for something like a KPT, even if you have a good read on the lead values (~7.00mm Neg, 9.25mm Pos). Steam Engine as a resource fares better than most published tables, spreadsheets, etc. which are unfortunately locked and/or fail to include user inputs for variables such as wire resistance or are limited in the mandrel or wire diameters mentioned. Many would have you building on a Q-tip or toothpick which is essentially not repeatable. So you get locked into a closet with your builds with generalized unspecific choices.

There is also a problem that these resources don't reveal the math used for computation which is important. Consequently one has to resort to long math to verify a result. Still waiting to see some formulas published along with the resource (and some inputs).

There are optimal targets and zones for virtually every device. Often multiple sweet spots. The Kanger Protank is no exception and I've attempted to map those zones with a systematic study of eight months and over 500 builds. Contributions are always welcome for those willing to verify with multiple builds and submit for replication (by myself or other contributors). I do my best to update the table in a timely fashion if there is a submission.

For your specific example above on a KPT a tensioned contact microcoil wind resulted in a lowest achievable build of...30AWG, 8/7 1.58mm i.d. t.m.c. = 1.73Ω. Tension winding can yield a value .05-.10Ω lower than a conventional hand wound or formed microcoil, sometimes below the theoretical and is typically more efficient (more production, less amp draw for a given resistance).

For additional temperature target results I've published tables on the thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html that may be useful to those of you interested in safe accurate build targets.

Some of the essential techniques for achieving this consistency are described in the above and related linked threads.

Good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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Ok have a new found like for the PTII. So now I think I wanna try rebuilding some coils when the time comes because I am thinking about picking up a few more. I have watched many videos about building a microcoil. Which is what I think I want to do. So the building concept is taken care of. What I need help with is what materials, diameters, length and wraps to use. I want to achieve a 2.0Ω - 2.2Ω basic coil. I have looked at the Steam Engine calculator but there are variable I am not sure of.

So.....
  • How much space is there to work with inside the head. As it what is the longest you can make a col before chance shorting it out
  • What is the best inside diameter to use and what to use to wrap around to achieve that i.d.
  • What gauge kanthal and how many wraps to achieve my desired resistance.
  • Yarn or silica and what outside diameter??? I really don't want to mess with the trial and error of shredding cotton balls
  • Flavor wick or no flavor wick. And should it be the same wick as you use for the coil wick

I know many people make it even more simple by just wrapping around their wick. But I figure with a microcoil re-threading the wick will be much easier.

Sorry if some of this is redundant but I figure there are many of you that have discovered the perfect combination to make this as easy as possible. That is pretty much what I want. Build a small supply of consistently same coils and be done with it without trial and error.

Also on a side note I would ideally like to build a coil for use in the PTII that I could also try in the Nautilus head. Similar to what RipTripper did do rebuild one as a single coil.

Garemlin, good morning. Finally carved out a few minutes to answer you. And you pose a great many significant well thought out questions. You remind me of well, me. When I first started vaping. Deluged by the tremendous amount of information here and disorder. I spent several months going through the high points before and after joining ECF. Like you, I had difficulty finding a coherent place to start. Ultimately I had to make a choice and I landed on two outstanding threads. They both had substantially moved the ball forward on getting folks in the direction of proper electrical builds.

The first thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html is an excellent discussion of electrical basics for the KPT and focuses on localization and building a standard wire diameter. The second, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html, advances the topics of microcoils, symmetry, targeting temperature and building an efficient tensioned contact micro coil.

They're long threads but the data is there to answer your questions and get it right.

Please feel free to drop a post anytime or PM me directly if you get stuck.

Good luck garemlin.

:)
 

Garemlin

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Garemlin, good morning. Finally carved out a few minutes to answer you. And you pose a great many significant well thought out questions. You remind me of well, me. When I first started vaping. Deluged by the tremendous amount of information here and disorder. I spent several months going through the high points before and after joining ECF. Like you, I had difficulty finding a coherent place to start. Ultimately I had to make a choice and I landed on two outstanding threads. They both had substantially moved the ball forward on getting folks in the direction of proper electrical builds.

The first thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html is an excellent discussion of electrical basics for the KPT and focuses on localization and building a standard wire diameter. The second, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html, advances the topics of microcoils, symmetry, targeting temperature and building an efficient tensioned contact micro coil.

They're long threads but the data is there to answer your questions and get it right.

Please feel free to drop a post anytime or PM me directly if you get stuck.

Good luck garemlin.

:)


Thank you Mac. As soon as I get around to ordering some Kanthal I will have it it. I will probably order some silica just in case I don't like the results with the P&C yarn. Would you recommend regular silica or the Ekowoll which is hollow from what I gather from my short research ventures.
 

MacTechVpr

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Thank you Mac. As soon as I get around to ordering some Kanthal I will have it it. I will probably order some silica just in case I don't like the results with the P&C yarn. Would you recommend regular silica or the Ekowoll which is hollow from what I gather from my short research ventures.

Those are some good offerings! Thanks, Mac!

Thanks guys. We're tryin' our best to devote time to everyone's effort. We have a fine bunch of contributors on both threads and some are incredibly good. Like me, they really got goin' on precision microcoils on those same threads. And each one of us adds a little bit of improvement and distinction to the results. Welcome to you both. And Garemlin thanks for your effort here too.

Take care and good luck.

:)
 
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