Yihi SX350J Technology Discussion Thread

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tchavei

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Thanks for commenting. I understand the reasoning on curve linearity but even if Kanthat is most linear of the lot i still do not understand why there is not enough of a difference at high temps to prevent the burning of wicking material. I would love to see the actual resistance curve for Kanthal as it rises in temp. One would think at least a cap could be place that would reduce the extremes tha can occur. I guess the burnt taste from drying wicks is signal enough, lol
It's almost a flat line with a variation of less than 0.0001 or something like that. It's used in other applications especially because of its stability at a huge range of temperatures.

Even if a TC board would have such a resolution, one sneeze at 10 feet distance could trick the mod into thinking the coil was at 1000F.

This isn't going to happen anytime soon. Sorry.

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Tony

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AlaskaVaper

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It's almost a flat line with a variation of less than 0.0001 or something like that. It's used in other applications especially because of its stability at a huge range of temperatures.

Even if a TC board would have such a resolution, one sneeze at 10 feet distance could trick the mod into thinking the coil was at 1000F.

This isn't going to happen anytime soon. Sorry.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Thanks for the info Tony Kanthal is amazing in its lack of resistance change. I definitely can now see the problem more clearly.
 

dr g

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The data in that chart is directly from the data sheets of each manufacturer of the boards. What makes it ridiculous in your opinion?

It's mostly ridiculous in the clear bias of the creator.

The DNA200 is using a different screen - the screen refresh code was just "left in there". Probably never get triggered, but no need to remove it, "just in case".

Same large screen.
 
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tchavei

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I still think it's static resistance... Instead of the power going to the coil it's converted to heat through the static resistance in the kf4. I would try a different atty just to be sure. Two boards with the same problem? I don't think that's likely.

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Tony

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Yozhik

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I tried 3 different KF4's.

Down to 365°F and it's still producing vapor, just a bit less than at 375°F and the atomizer is still getting really hot. This is on a .10Ω build.

The KF4 uses a spring in the connection path, which can make it inconsistent in terms of temperature control.
 

KTMRider

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I still think it's static resistance... Instead of the power going to the coil it's converted to heat through the static resistance in the kf4. I would try a different atty just to be sure. Two boards with the same problem? I don't think that's likely.

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Tony

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You could be right but same atomizers on my DNA40's don't get this hot. DNA40's are set to 20w, 430°F - 440°F.

My drippers have kanthal. I could probably build a NI200 coil on a KFL+v2.

The KF4 uses a spring in the connection path, which can make it inconsistent in terms of temperature control.
I have the afc screw reversed and contacting the 510 pin in the atomizer. I also have the spring edges sanded down. I tried closing and opening the JC as well. It just gets way hotter than when I vape on my DNA40 mods.
 

tchavei

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You could be right but same atomizers on my DNA40's don't get this hot. DNA40's are set to 20w, 430°F - 440°F.

My drippers have kanthal. I could probably build a NI200 coil on a KFL+v2.


I have the afc screw reversed and contacting the 510 pin in the atomizer. I also have the spring edges sanded down. I tried closing and opening the JC as well. It just gets way hotter than when I vape on my DNA40 mods.

Maybe the dna compensates with refinement while the sx sets and forgets and doesn't care what happens once you fire it.... I would try the kfl 2

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Tony

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Yozhik

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You could be right but same atomizers on my DNA40's don't get this hot. DNA40's are set to 20w, 430°F - 440°F.

My drippers have kanthal. I could probably build a NI200 coil on a KFL+v2.


I have the afc screw reversed and contacting the 510 pin in the atomizer. I also have the spring edges sanded down. I tried closing and opening the JC as well. It just gets way hotter than when I vape on my DNA40 mods.

The first thing I would do is remove or replace the spring. Even with the afc screw in contact with the 510 pin, it might be getting heated up by transient current.
 
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KTMRider

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I'll say it again - the DNA200 is using a different screen. THAT is from someone who actually has one and knows the part numbers. Do you have a better source? I'd be interested to hear it.
It's been said by quite a few well known beta testers here that the screen is the same. Maybe sourced from a different supplier (hence different part numbers?) but dimensions are supposedly identical to the large screens.
 

tchavei

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It seems to be working. It's getting warm but not any more so than on my DNA40's.
:D

Seems the k4 has a standard dual coil. One for vaporizing liquid and the other one disguised as a spring to keep the atty warm in those winter months :)

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Tony

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jazzvaper

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:D

Seems the k4 has a standard dual coil. One for vaporizing liquid and the other one disguised as a spring to keep the atty warm in those winter months :)

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Tony

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You would be correct if you made the distinction between a genuine K4 and a [ah-hem!?] copy.

I have two genuine and six "copies". Two of the copies have never been opened. One of those, made more recently, is a dead ringer for the original, down to the tell tale clue for copies not being present. It goes in the atty museum along with some other FT stuff.

Two serve as bases for bell caps (so I can distinguish them from the real thing). They vape "okay", better than the myriad sub-tanks. One I dropped into the garbage last night 'cause it won't work no matter what spring goes in it. The sixth I use, off and on, with the PMMA tank. It, too, will soon go to the dump since it needs constant adjustment of the 510.

So much of the K4 complaints come from confusing the real from the counterfeit. Genuine: no problems. Counterfeit: headaches.
 
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