Can someone clarify how to top fill? Is it simply screwing of the top cap and keeping the glass firmly pressed down?
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Youde Goliath V2
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That LOOKS great in Black. I too am guilty of not having seen that color glass 
It was shipped Sept 28th but I am in Canada so it just cleared Canada Customs today. Guessing in BC so I should have it Monday or Tuesday. I do so wish I didn't have to pay conversion rates on our terrible dropping dollar as its never $19 for me, but it still beats the $50 I would pay here for it at regular price.
Looking forward to the Bellus as well.
It was shipped Sept 28th but I am in Canada so it just cleared Canada Customs today. Guessing in BC so I should have it Monday or Tuesday. I do so wish I didn't have to pay conversion rates on our terrible dropping dollar as its never $19 for me, but it still beats the $50 I would pay here for it at regular price.
Looking forward to the Bellus as well.
For those not yet sure how to fill these easily here is a photo of what you need to see in order to fill it properly. JUst make sure that the "dot" is over to the FAR LEFT of that graph thingy. Once there just slowly pour your juice in. I can do easily, 50/50 and 70/30. Can't speak for others but those two work very well. Slowly let it fill. Takes 20 seconds. Once done, move the dot back over to half way and screw back on. I find the halfway point just perfect for me. If left too open, with that dot on the far left, I find it has a greater chance of flooding. If too far over to the right, your cotton won't be juiced well enough......I find it easiest to put that "dot" in position and take it out of it when the bottom coil deck is off of the atty.
Well, after two days of using the Goliath V2 exclusively, vaping well over 40ml of juice, it's now officially my favorite RTA of all time.
No leaks, no flooding, excellent wicking, excellent airflow, and great vapor and flavor. It's very temp-control friendly, with a solid connection and no fluctuations in resistance to speak of, and I'm really impressed with how "un-tall" this thing is considering it's a 5ML tank.
I really enjoy the build deck on this thing, and I'll never, ever, EVER buy a center-post design RTA again. The Velocity spoiled me, the Goliath V2 finished the job.
After a little experimentation with coil height, I've found that the best flavor for me comes with the top of the coils just below the post holes, but that does require you use 2.5mm ID coils or smaller to insure you won't short. Building above the post-holes lets you use larger ID and/or exotic coils, but frankly, smaller diameter single wire coils placed low performs as well, if not better(for flavor), as a high mounted larger diameter twisted/Clapton as far as I'm concerned.
I use 80-95% VG juice (only PG is in the flavors), and really don't have a huge issue with the bottom fill using a squeeze bottle, even those with fairly blunt tips that don't fit inside the fill port. My trick is to tilt the tank 45 degrees, with one fill port at the top, and squeezing juice into the bottom hole while moving the tip of the bottle side-to-side in the fill port slowly. The side-to-side motion breaks up any juice bubbles that might form, the tilt insures air wants to go out the other hole. Takes about 30 seconds to fill, start to finish. It's obviously not as fast as just bunging it in if the port was wider, but it's not a total pain either.
And I can't repeat this enough, when you first get it, lube everything with juice. Slather some VG around all the seams between the moving parts on the outside. Work the threads and rings on everything a few times before you do your first build. After doing that, there's very little chance the juice control or airflow will seize up, or cause the build deck to loosen inadvertently.
My biggest functional complaint so far (and this one is minor), is that due to the seam around the bottom of the 510 base/AFC ring, there's more than a little bit of condensation (not juice) that leaks out the airflow chamber and is deposited on your mod. With the amount I vape (and in Florida with high humidity), that pretty much requires taking the tank off at least a couple times a day to clean off. Probably not a big deal if you don't use temp control, but something to keep an eye on if you do, to prevent any conductivity/resistance issues. But I'm willing to put up with this, because it's really not a flaw, just a consequence of Youde keeping the design compact.
No leaks, no flooding, excellent wicking, excellent airflow, and great vapor and flavor. It's very temp-control friendly, with a solid connection and no fluctuations in resistance to speak of, and I'm really impressed with how "un-tall" this thing is considering it's a 5ML tank.
I really enjoy the build deck on this thing, and I'll never, ever, EVER buy a center-post design RTA again. The Velocity spoiled me, the Goliath V2 finished the job.
After a little experimentation with coil height, I've found that the best flavor for me comes with the top of the coils just below the post holes, but that does require you use 2.5mm ID coils or smaller to insure you won't short. Building above the post-holes lets you use larger ID and/or exotic coils, but frankly, smaller diameter single wire coils placed low performs as well, if not better(for flavor), as a high mounted larger diameter twisted/Clapton as far as I'm concerned.
I use 80-95% VG juice (only PG is in the flavors), and really don't have a huge issue with the bottom fill using a squeeze bottle, even those with fairly blunt tips that don't fit inside the fill port. My trick is to tilt the tank 45 degrees, with one fill port at the top, and squeezing juice into the bottom hole while moving the tip of the bottle side-to-side in the fill port slowly. The side-to-side motion breaks up any juice bubbles that might form, the tilt insures air wants to go out the other hole. Takes about 30 seconds to fill, start to finish. It's obviously not as fast as just bunging it in if the port was wider, but it's not a total pain either.
And I can't repeat this enough, when you first get it, lube everything with juice. Slather some VG around all the seams between the moving parts on the outside. Work the threads and rings on everything a few times before you do your first build. After doing that, there's very little chance the juice control or airflow will seize up, or cause the build deck to loosen inadvertently.
My biggest functional complaint so far (and this one is minor), is that due to the seam around the bottom of the 510 base/AFC ring, there's more than a little bit of condensation (not juice) that leaks out the airflow chamber and is deposited on your mod. With the amount I vape (and in Florida with high humidity), that pretty much requires taking the tank off at least a couple times a day to clean off. Probably not a big deal if you don't use temp control, but something to keep an eye on if you do, to prevent any conductivity/resistance issues. But I'm willing to put up with this, because it's really not a flaw, just a consequence of Youde keeping the design compact.
This is also the best RTA I've used to date. Since a minor flooding issue a week or two back, I've set the juice flow at half way and it has been mostly flawless. So much so that I don't want to take it apart and clean it1
I've have a 24ga/.35 build in it that I also don't want to take out any time soon.
I've have a 24ga/.35 build in it that I also don't want to take out any time soon.
I have 3 of the V1's and as of today's mail, 2 of the V2. I won't go as far as to say it's my all time favourite as I have had favourites at different times but at this present time it is for rebuilding with Kanathal. I personally find that when using my TC devices, the Kanger Subtank Mini works easiest with Ni200 but am yet to try T1.
i WILL say that YOUDE continues to impress, first with the Goblin, then the Goliath V1, now the V2 and I look very forward to this Bellus that I have ordered on a pre-order.
I use 50/50 and set it half way and don't have issues with flooding either.
What i have never understood was why this V2 was so vilified from the beginning? So many said they did not like it compared to the V1 but I use a couple of each and both are great. The V2 is a better looking atty than V1 but V1 is as good......I wont buy clones as i feel they are inferior to authentics but Fasttech has the best V1 clone for only $12.92 and it's fantastic. I have both the authentic and 2 cloned V1's and can't tell the difference between the two. If there is any flaw at all to the V1 clone, its that one some of them, the a/c ring can sometimes be a bit tough to turn. I have got around this by just simply pulling it off, which it does easily and then sliding it back on at the exact spot i want, rather than trying to move it back and forth sideways which is tougher on one clone but not the second one. But its on the bottom of the tank, not on the middle like the V2..(its on the bottom as well on the V2 but u cant pull it off like the V1, which is what i meant)
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10013575/2300900-goliath-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer
i WILL say that YOUDE continues to impress, first with the Goblin, then the Goliath V1, now the V2 and I look very forward to this Bellus that I have ordered on a pre-order.
I use 50/50 and set it half way and don't have issues with flooding either.
What i have never understood was why this V2 was so vilified from the beginning? So many said they did not like it compared to the V1 but I use a couple of each and both are great. The V2 is a better looking atty than V1 but V1 is as good......I wont buy clones as i feel they are inferior to authentics but Fasttech has the best V1 clone for only $12.92 and it's fantastic. I have both the authentic and 2 cloned V1's and can't tell the difference between the two. If there is any flaw at all to the V1 clone, its that one some of them, the a/c ring can sometimes be a bit tough to turn. I have got around this by just simply pulling it off, which it does easily and then sliding it back on at the exact spot i want, rather than trying to move it back and forth sideways which is tougher on one clone but not the second one. But its on the bottom of the tank, not on the middle like the V2..(its on the bottom as well on the V2 but u cant pull it off like the V1, which is what i meant)
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10013575/2300900-goliath-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer
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Sorry about off topic but I am curious about your subtank build. I have not yet tried one but am planning on soon. I have 28 gauge Ni200 so any tips would be appreciated. You can just message me if you don't want to crowd this thread with off topicness. TIA for any tips.
OT : I am still waiting for mine :/
I've personally retired all my Subtank and my Subtank Minis because I don't build with Kanthal anymore, and they have horrible horrible performance in TC mode with the RBA decks (and don't get me started on the pre-built heads). It's just a very bad 510 post design that leads to resistance issues more often than not, that you'd never notice using Kanthal.
Dang :/ Well nonetheless I want to give it a shot anyhow. If it's as bad as you say will probably just continue to use them with kanthal and do my TC builds on the Goliath.
I dunno, I never had a problem with TC builds on my STminis. I don't use them anymore either, but that is because I found other tanks I like more.
Funnily I have to disagree. Consider it one of the best for Ni200 builds. Don't have any issues with resistance. Its the most reliable one for TC i find. I rebuild my own, I don't use pre-made coils although I have tried them but consider them very muted in taste, at least IMO. That being said, I am using the RBA+ deck, not the original. I use the original for some juice I keep in attys on my desk as I have a ton of flavours so those are good for the odd vape but not my favourite ones.
In case no one is aware of it, http://www.efun.top/ has pre-sales on the BELLUS for only $18.50----they have a lot of great deals at the moment
Well I been using mine about a week and really like it. Hits very good and flavor is very good.
I find it such a pita to take apart but I'm getting used to it.
One problem I been having is snapping the legs on my dual builds. I tried twice today and kept snapping the freaking leg. Really frustrating and gonna try again tomorrow. I think I'm probably tightening it too tight? I'm using 26 gauge and this is also my first venture in dual coil rebuilding.
I find it such a pita to take apart but I'm getting used to it.
One problem I been having is snapping the legs on my dual builds. I tried twice today and kept snapping the freaking leg. Really frustrating and gonna try again tomorrow. I think I'm probably tightening it too tight? I'm using 26 gauge and this is also my first venture in dual coil rebuilding.
Take a little sandpaper or even an Emery board to the bottom of the screws, that often helps. Make sure the wires in the hole are side-by-side when you insert the legs to ensure even screw pressure on both coil legs. And remember, the screws don't need a lot of torque; a good test to see if they're tight enough is to wiggle the legs (before you trim them) and see if the coils move. If they don't, it's tight enough, if it does, tighten just a bit more, test again.
If all else fails (or you're using Ni200), you can double the legs; leave them longer than normal, fold the legs in half almost back to the coil so that the leg is "stacked" double (and feel free to trim the end near the coil if it looks like it might contact), then insert and tighten as normal. You've essentially made a spacer out of that extra wire, making it less likely to get cut by the screws, and it has no impact on resistance or conductivity.
As far as having trouble taking it apart, be sure to lube the everlovin' hell out of it with juice, even the outside so that juice gets in the tiny gaps where the AFC and juice flow rings spin. Do that and it's a helluva lot easier to take apart, or operate.
Thanks very much for the tips I will be trying another build when I get off work.
Another thing I was wondering is about which ends to put in on the posts. Like should I have both overwraps of the coil in the same post or should I have an underwrap coincide with an overwrap on the same post? Hope that makes sense :/
I am pretty noob with the dual coil so I appreciate the help. I did manage to do it properly the first time and it was working just awesome. I went to do a dry burn and rewick and I snapped a leg
I used it in single coil mode for a little while like that but really miss the dual coil so I want to get that going again.Anyhow for the price I got 2 of them for (56 Canadian shipping included) I am just so impressed with this thing I freaking love it so far!
With one side of the deck facing me, I almost always put my the leg going over the top of the coil in the left post hole, and the bottom leg in the right hole, then spin the atty around and do the same with the other side.
That puts a "bottom" and "top" in each post hole.
In terms of functionality, it doesn't really matter, I just find the "mirror image" method makes it easier to snip the excess wire.
That puts a "bottom" and "top" in each post hole.
In terms of functionality, it doesn't really matter, I just find the "mirror image" method makes it easier to snip the excess wire.
Thanks for the help!
This is just stupid cheap I gotta get a couple I guess man this is snowballing quickly.... Thanks for the heads up.
You can get one from a US vendor for only a few bucks more. Efun.top comes out to like $22 shipped, I've seen them in stock this week for $23-26 shipped from US sites if you don't want to wait for the slow boat from China.
Hmm well I'm in Canada so idk if that will make a difference. Where is the cheapest from US right now? Thanks.
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