Your first build, did you....
- Thread starter Paul Allen
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
No. I had seen a bunch of YouTube videos prior, and so when I got my first RDA and it came time to put a build in, I sat down, wrapped a couple of coils that looked good (six wraps around a Q-tip rod, each), put 'em in and wicked 'em. First time's the charm, I guess.
I watched a guy in a shop build his own, then watched a YouTube video.
It's pretty basic stuff.
No.
$6 100ft Kanthal wire, $1 100 cotton balls, $1 small screwdriver set, $1 nail clippers. Years of vaping.
Pennies per coil.
It's pretty basic stuff.
No.
$6 100ft Kanthal wire, $1 100 cotton balls, $1 small screwdriver set, $1 nail clippers. Years of vaping.
Pennies per coil.
Highly advised, unless you own and understand a GOOD Multi-meter.
I spend about 15 Bucks to get the Needed Things to build my first Coil. Wire, Cotton Pads, Coil Winding Tool (Not absolutely needed, but $7 well spent).
Watched some YouTube Video's and did about 2 Hundred scenarios on this site...
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
My First Build looked like Caca on a Stick. And I had to Re-Wick it a Few Times before it worked right. But once it did, it was Much Better than any Coil Heads I had used.
Yes.
About $5 at fasttech.
Unless you have a regulated mod with a display that reads resistance. That's actually what I use.
A multi meter will work too.
$1 at harbor freight.
You are all awesome THANK YOU for all your replies!! Now my next question is, what type of rebuildable tank would you all recommend??
Did it on my own. Spent a few cents per coil. I was lucky and it was easy. It was the age of the Genesis atomizer. If you can't build a coil for a Genesis atomizer, you most likely can't walk up right and definitely shouldn't be building coils. And you shouldn't be driving. Or handling firearms. Or fireworks. Or allowed to be without adult supervision.
I started out with Phil Busardo`s YT tute on pro tank/ego heads and then progressed. I would say the best quality for starting is to not be too hard on yourself. It is an endeavor where practice makes perfect, even if it takes what seems like forever to master, :?)
I bought an ohmmeter, wire and a small amount of rayon. And wrapped it on a drill bit 
. I had seen enough pictures that it was clear what to do.
. I had seen enough pictures that it was clear what to do.
I started rebuilding my PT2/Ego heads about 18 months ago. Just mimicked what was shown in a couple of diagrams. "cheated" by using my MVP2/VV3 readers because I was building about 1.8 ohms. Got a real ohmmeter later that summer and my first RDA that winter. Like the others, $6 for a 100' spool of kanthal and a $1 bag of cotton balls.
- I watched video's on youtube, so I guess you could say that I sat with lots of people to learn. (watch videos)
- Building coils costs pennies. Saves big $$.
- Wire and cotton.
I use a little 3.0mm screwdriver to wrap my coils on. My regulated mods read the ohm's.
I recommend getting an RDA to learn on. Lots more wiggle room in there than a tank/RTA.
My first RTA was the kanger subtank mini. They're very good and reliable tanks, and pretty simple to wick.
But again, I recommend learning on a basic/standard/straight-forward RDA.
Last edited:
Nope, a few YouTube videos and I was good to go--and that's on a technically not very rebuildable head, the Kanger T3S tank. You can do it, but it's a bit fiddly.
It costs pennies per head. These days, I use rayon, which works out to $0.0004 per wick, or 25 wicks to the penny. If the wire needs replacing (rare), that hikes the price to about $0.02 maximum.
All you need is wire (if it needs replacing), wicking material (rayon, cotton, or silica), scissors (larger scissors for cutting wire, cuticle scissors for trimming wick work for me), whatever your deck requires to attach the wire (often a Philips head screwdriver, sometimes a specialty screwdriver), and something to test the coil resistance (a meter or an electronic mod).
It costs pennies per head. These days, I use rayon, which works out to $0.0004 per wick, or 25 wicks to the penny. If the wire needs replacing (rare), that hikes the price to about $0.02 maximum.
All you need is wire (if it needs replacing), wicking material (rayon, cotton, or silica), scissors (larger scissors for cutting wire, cuticle scissors for trimming wick work for me), whatever your deck requires to attach the wire (often a Philips head screwdriver, sometimes a specialty screwdriver), and something to test the coil resistance (a meter or an electronic mod).
Clone rda's are under $10 on Fasttech. A tugboat is a good one to learn building on. Who knows you might like it and prefer it to tanks. The day I got my first rda was the last day I used a tank. I didn't expect that.
No I didn't sit with anybody. I read everything I could get my hands on and steeled myself to actually watch an internet video. Then I carefully calculated the resistance of the wire I wanted to use, to determine the diameter and number of wraps on the coil I wanted to build-- I didn't know about coil calculators then as I was not a member of this board at that time-- bought an appropriately sized drill bit and had at it. The first 3 were miserable. I had a problem with wicking and didn't understand it. Then I went to the local B&M and paid the guy to build my tank while I watched him. After that, it got a lot easier. I have never calculated the cost, but it's well under a dollar. Might be under 50 cents.
I can Vape on I-695 in rush hour traffic - Tanks have purpose
Just ordered 4 more Magma RDA'a(tobeco) for flavor chasing
i'd recommend starting with a kanger subtank. the included build deck is incredibly easy to build on, plus it's a pretty decent tank with occ heads if you decide not to rebuild. seems like a lot of them tend to leak, though, so you may have to deal with that...
also, you can't go wrong with a decent kayfun clone. if you go this route, i'd stick to a kfl/kfl+ or a v3 and avoid the v4 at first.
also, you can't go wrong with a decent kayfun clone. if you go this route, i'd stick to a kfl/kfl+ or a v3 and avoid the v4 at first.
- Status
Similar threads
