Hello and welcome back for yet another review by yours truly. Today I will be taking a look at the Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W Kit that was sent to me by Lost Vape in order to provide this review for you. The Solo is yet another great mod in the Lost Vape line that uses the Quest 2.0 chip that many of us have come to like very much and has been used in previous releases such as the Centaurus BF, Thelema 200W, Ursa, Grus, and Cyborg. The Solo plays off of the Thelema design as far as appearance and has a C frame for battery loading which I like very much. The kit includes the same UB Pro pod tank which is in fact a great performer but I feel like it’s time for Lost Vape to come out with a new tank or even an RTA to pair with the kits. Either way, I don’t think you will be disappointed if you decide to try this kit. Let’s take a look and see what’s included and look at some specifications then I’ll talk about my experiences with it.






WHAT’S IN THE BOX?

1* Thelema Solo 100W Box Mod

1* 5ml UB Pro Pod Tank

1* 0.15ohm UB Pro P1 Coil

1* 0.3ohm UB Pro P3 Coil

1* 18650 Battery Adapter

4* O-rings

1* Type-C Cable

1* User Manual

1* Warranty Card





SPECIFICATIONS:

Dimension 39*28.5*97.5mm

Battery 21700/18650 battery (not included)

Input Voltage 5V

Battery Voltage 3.0V-4.2V

Output Voltage 0.7V-8V

Power Range 5-100W

Current Range 1A-35A

Temperature Range 100℃-315℃/200℉-600℉

Coil Resistance Supported 0.15ohm-5.0ohm

Coil Material Supported Nickel/Titanium/SS316/SS904/Kanthal

Screen Pixel 0.96 inch 80*160

Body Material Zinc Alloy

E-juice Capacity 5ml

Color Full Leather Series: Black Classic Black, SS Mineral Green, Gunmetal Ochre Brown

Carbon Fiber Leather Series: Black Carbon Fiber, SS Carbon Fiber, Gunmetal Carbon Fiber, Sierra Blue Carbon Fiber, Matt Red Carbon Fiber




FEATURES:

1. Thelema Solo 100W Mod with UB Pro Pod Tank

2. Single 21700/18650 battery

3. Replaceable battery door

4. Quest 2.0 chip performs extremely steady all the time

5. Five vaping modes: Wattage/VPC/Bypass/Voltage/Temperature Control (SS904/SS316/Ti/Ni) mode

6. 3 user records while normal coil, TC coil and RBA

7. Compatible with UB Pro coils

8. DC 5V Type-C fast charging

9. Unique overlay & genuine leather

10. Multiple protections: Short Circuit/Weak Battery/Overheat/10S Over-time Protection





















INITIAL THOUGHTS:

The packaging for the Thelema Solo arrived in normal Lost Vape style. The white box with black writing and picture of the device inside on the front has become their signature design in my mind. As usual the package contents are on the back of the box along with a security code.

I know I’ve mentioned this once or twice before but like how Lost Vape wraps their mods in a protective cover for shipping. It’s that little extra bit of care that helps to set them apart. One other thing I liked and didn’t notice until opening the Solo was how the accessory box has the contents listed on the box so you know whether you even need to open that box or not to get you started. I personally did not since I have a ton of charging cables and intended on running the mod with a 21700.







I have the Thelema Quest as well as the Thelema DNA250C and feel like Lost Vape did a fantastic job keeping with the Thelema design and aesthetics. On one side is the Lost Vape name while on the opposite side is Thelema Solo. I received the stainless steel carbon fiber version so on the back of the mod is a carbon fiber covering with very little padding. A very attractive looking combination in my opinion.

The carbon fiber covering is part of the C frame battery cover. I like very much that they decided to go with this type of battery cover instead of a screw on battery cap on the bottom like some of their previous mods. To me this helps to keep the feel of the original Thelema design. You can see in the picture below that once the cover is removed that the battery polarity is clearly marked.







The front of the mod will look familiar to you if you have used any of the recent releases from Lost Vape in the Quest line of devices. This mod as well as a handful of previous mods released by Lost Vape uses the Quest 2.0 chipset. In my opinion it is a close runner up to the DNA chipset.

The large square fire button is near the top of the device followed by the vibrant display screen as well as the +, menu, and – buttons. Near the bottom of the mod face is the USB-C fast charging port. The display screen shows the following information.

- Coil resistance and battery percentage on top

- Mode of operation( Power, Bypass, Voltage, VPC, Ni, Ti, SS316, SS904)

- Wattage or temperature set

- Pod or Mod mode and user profile

- Normal/ Soft/ Hard operation mode and puff counter

- Setting on bottom that takes you into the menu system


The solos offers five modes of operation:

1. VPC Mode

2. BYPASS Mode

3. Wattage Mode (with soft, norm, and hard preheat level options),

4. Voltage Mode

5. Temperature Control Mode (SS904/SS316/Ti/Ni)


Inside the settings menu there are more options. They are:


- Atomizer( tells atomizer resistance and current settings)

- Screen( adjust screen brightness)

- User( three settable user profiles)

- Reset

- About( shows software version)



3 User Records

Allows you to create presets of different modes and easily switch between 3 user records while using normal coil, TC coil and RBA.


The Solo just like the other mods using the Quest 2.0 chip offers multiple safety features.

MULTIPLE PROTECTIONS:

①Short-Circuit Protection

②Weak Battery Protection

③Over Heat Protection

④10 seconds over-time protection





If you choose to get the full kit then it will include the UB Pro pod tank that has been released for some time now and was included with prior kits. I won’t go into great detail on the pod tank since I’ve covered it in my previous reviews. I will say that this tank is a great performer for flavor and vapor production whether it’s using the included coils or the optional rba. The included coils are the following.

UB Pro P1 Coil 0.15Ω

Coil resistance: 0.15Ω Mesh Coil

Rate: 70-90W

Available for DL



UB Pro P3 Coil 0.3Ω

Coil resistance: 0.3Ω Mesh Coil

Rate: 60-70W / 260-290℃ / 500-550℉

Available for DL


Also available as a separate purchase is the RBA which in my opinion works very well and is definitely worth the purchase price.

UB Pro RBA Deck

Resistance Range: 0.15-3.0 Ω

For DIY



FINAL THOUGHTS:

I feel like the Thelema Solo 100W kit is yet another great offering from Lost Vape. It kept with the design and aesthetics of the previous Thelema models while bringing the new feel of a thinner single battery version that will allow you to use either an 18650 with the included adapter or a 21700 for extended battery life. It seems to me that the Quest 2.0 chipset does a pretty good job of power management and felt like I got very long battery life with the 21700 battery being used.

I very much like the C frame design for battery replacement more so than the previous threaded cap design that has become very popular across different brands of mods. I do have to say that the unit I received had a little movement in the battery cover. It wasn’t terrible but if I shifted it in my hand the right way then I did get a little shifting from the cover.

The UB Pro tank and coils are tried and proven time after time to provide very good flavor and vapor production in my opinion. I personally prefer the .3 ohm coils and that is what I have chosen to stock up on. If you are one that doesn’t like to stock coils then the RBA is a great option. It is a fairly large unit which makes it easier to build compared to most that I’ve tried. Not only is it easy to build but also provides superior flavor whether you use a simple round wire coil or some other exotic coil.

I’d like to thank Lost Vape and Antonia for sending the Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W kit for this review. Of course, a big thanks to all the readers. I know a lot of you don’t post comments but still appreciate you taking the time to read my reviews. Below is a link to the Lost Vape website if you’d like to take a look. They offer a wide variety of devices and I haven’t tried a bad one yet.


Thelema Solo 100W Kit – Lost Vape

Interested in purchasing Aspire CF Mods

I am looking to sell / trade my Mölly v3 18650 mech squonker. It will come with a black bottle, grey pouch and of course the Mölly squonker. It has 2/4 magnets in the door and a very small mark on the left side of the door. Please see pictures and request more if desired. Color is a grey design on the black body. Not sure why it looks purple on here.

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Trades would include:
Harpy
Bolt
Plug
Spade v2
18650/20700/21700

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Hello,
i have restarted vaping recently, thankfully I had stored everything in a box, including wire spools and wick material. Other than SS316 wire, I also have a few spools of Ni200, from 24 to 30 Ga. Unfortunately it's not easy to make a Ni200 with enough resistance to be recognised by the mod (I think it needs at least 0.05). I've got 22mm atomisers, so there's only enough room for 5 rounds(?) per coil. The "best" I got so far was 0.06, with 30 Ga wire.
I like vaping with a Ni200 coil, I prefer the taste of it compared to SS316. I only vape with TC enabled, and from what I remember, there's not many more types of wire that can be used with TC. So is there a way to obtain higher resistance coils, with the same wire?

The XROS Family from Vaporesso is very popular for beginners. Here comes the newest member -XROS NANO. Unlike the former 3 members are long slim style, while the XROS NANO is square-shape. Is it better than the other members? Let’s check it out in this review.




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3. 1000mAh built-in battery, with tiding battery indicator
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Let's check out the Vaporesso XROS Series quick comparison chart below.

XROS Nano vs XROS 2 vs XROS MINI vs XROS

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Learn More:
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Vaporesso XROS 2

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Today，I wanna tell you about Jellybox Air X Kit for sale which has a 1000mAh built-in battery with 10-30W power. 3D print replacement magnetic panels are designed for Jellybox Air X for good texture and strong protection. A fashionable lanyard is applied for Jellybox Air X pod system Kit cheap. Equipped with innovative airflow system, it will provide you the most comfortable vaping experience.

In addition, it also features auto draw & auto-adjust wattage. The pod of 3.5ml capacity is visible and features side filling. Jellybox Air X Kit is compatible with Jellybox Nano Coil. And the package contains a mesh 1.0ohm coil for MTL vaping, and a mesh 0.5ohm coil for RDL vaping.

If you want a cool pod system kit,please go to vape store near me.

You may also like:

Geekvape H45 (Aegis Hero 2) Pod Mod Kit 1400mAh 45W
PAX Era Life Vaporizer

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Maxus DTL Pod by Freemax adopts a user-friendly side-filling design. So do you know what are the advantages over the vape kits with the bottom filling system?

It’s super easy to refill the 5mL Maxus DTL Pod by simply opening the plug and injecting e-liquid without detaching the pod from the mod. It just only needs two steps to finish refilling vape juice into Maxus DTL Pod. However, the vape starter kits with the bottom filling system need three steps - First, you need to detach one pod from the mod, then open the plug and refill the pod.

Hello,
i used to smoke around 6-7 cigarette a day , and trying to give up on it this year ...so i bought disposable pod like (solo 600 ) , which i found quite good and satisfying just like cigarette ...unfortunately that is too expensive ...so i am looking for vaping option , so i bought nord4 , and tried couple of things below,
1) eliquid 50/50 ratio with 6 mg nicotine salt in it
2) coil of both nord rpm 0.4 and 1.2 ohm, even though its said , 1.5 ohm is better for mtl vaping , i found 0.4 ohm at 24 watt , a bit better
with all of this , i find , my current setup very light in throat hit , and nicotine absorption.

So , my question , is how to i get more closer taste to disposable cigarette , something that mimics close to it , in my current setup for Nord4 or Nord4 isn't meant to be used like a Pod at all ?
Please, let me know

Thanks,

Expanding on my earlier post on cell voltage ratings. I see a lot of confusion regarding advice on how far down we can discharge a cell. The differences between these two voltages are important.

These voltages show us how the cell reacts to being used, or not used. They aren’t ratings or specs but they are important concepts for being able to best use the datasheet information.

Resting Voltage:
This is the voltage of the cell or battery pack when it has had a chance to rest after being used or charged. All of the datasheet specs are based on the resting voltage.

Under-Load Voltage:
This is the voltage of the cell or battery pack while it is being used, while it is “under load”. It is always lower than the resting voltage because of the voltage drop (“voltage sag”) caused by the internal resistance of the cell/pack.

This is not the true cell/pack voltage! It is just a lower temporary voltage seen only when it is being used. The voltage rises back up some once you stop. How much it rises depends on on how hard you were using the cell/pack.

Why is the difference between these two important?

The decisions we make about how hard we can use a cell need to take into account the differences between the resting and under-load voltages. It’s also important to mention which one of these is being discussed when talking to someone about cell performance or safety.

For example, the 2.5V low voltage spec for a “standard” li-ion cell is the resting voltage. If we are using a cell and the voltage sags down to 2.5V but bounces back up to 2.8V (or some other voltage) then we have not discharged that cell to 2.5V. The voltage sag that caused the temporarily lower voltage only made it seem like we discharged it that far. In this example we have only discharged it to 2.8V.

But if we used a cell and then stopped for a while (at least several minutes) and the voltage only rose back up to 2.5V then we should not discharge it any further. This cell has had time to settle to its true (resting) voltage and it’s down at the 2.5V low voltage rating for the cell. We should stop using this cell and charge it.

When someone says “never go below 3.0V per cell”, or some other level, it’s important to know if they are talking about the resting or under-load voltage.

Going to 3.0V/cell while being used is a lot less stressful to a cell than taking a cell down to the point where it only rises back up to 3.0V after a couple of hours. Using a cell until it drops to 3.0V means it might bounce back up to 3.3V or even a higher once you stop. But that cell with the 3.0V resting voltage might have been discharged to 2.8V or even a lot lower. This can create more heat and age the cell faster.

Charging Voltage Sag:
This is a third example of a “phantom” voltage. While charging a cell or pack you will see the opposite of what happens during discharge. The internal resistance of the cell cause a voltage rise instead of the voltage drop (sag) seen during discharge.

This is what causes the cell voltage to almost always read lower than 4.20V after charging to that voltage. The resting voltage might be pretty high, 4.19V, or it could be a lot lower, 4.15V, if the cell was older and had a lot of internal resistance or if you were charging very quickly.

This usually has very little effect on how completely the cell was charged since most chargers keep going until the current has dropped to a certain level, they are not fooled by this phantom voltage rise.

But if your cells are dropping down to around a 4.15V resting voltage, or lower, then I recommend charging slower to minimize the voltage rise in the cell. Some chargers are more sensitive to this voltage rise that than others and all chargers are affected by it a bit at high charging current levels.

Examples of Resting and Under-Load Voltages:
Examples of a cell at its resting voltage are easy to find, just don’t use the cell for a couple of hours. You can get a good idea of its resting voltage after a few minutes, perhaps just a couple of minutes, but it takes up to a few hours to come to its final resting voltage.

The under-load voltage can be seen any time a cell is being used. The harder you use the cell the bigger the difference between the resting and under-load voltages.

If you are a vaper you might have noticed this happening while taking a puff with a regulated device (with a display). The cell voltage/percentage or the number of “battery bars” will drop when you take a puff but then go back up when you stop. The higher the power setting, the larger the voltage drop will be.

If you have ever checked the voltage of your battery pack when riding an electric skateboard or e-bike you might have noticed the voltage dropping whenever you accelerate and then going back up when you are just cruising. This is the voltage sag difference between low power cruising and the high power being drawn from the battery pack when accelerating.

The under-load voltage effect isn’t only visible when comparing it to the resting voltage. The under-load voltage difference can also be seen when using a cell/pack at two different power levels (like when cruising or accelerating with an e-bike).

Using Resting and Under-Load Voltages Properly:
If we wanted to always stay above 3.0V/cell (or some other voltage) to extend cell life then we should be paying attention to the resting voltage we bring the cells down to, not the under-load voltage.

This means we can discharge our cells to under 3.0V (or whatever you chose) as long as the voltage rises back up to at least 3.0V in a couple of minutes.

If you stopped when the cells reached 3.0V/cell under load that means you might have only discharged them down to a 3.2V-3.5V (or even higher) resting voltage. This is certainly better for the cell, helping to extend its life even more, but you are missing out on the additional run time you could get by using the cells down to a 3.0V resting voltage.

How much a cell’s/pack’s voltage rises back up when you stop using it depends on how hard you are using the cell/pack. A powerbank user might have to stop at 2.90V to be sure the voltage rises back up to 3.0V. But a high power vaper or PEV rider might be able to run the cells down to 2.5V each and still have them rise back up to over a 3.0V resting voltage. You’ll have to experiment to see how your setup responds.

High power battery pack users should be very careful though if bringing the voltages down low to maximize running time (while still having a decently high resting voltage).

If the cells in the pack are unbalanced or aging, and you do not have a BMS monitoring each cell for low voltage, then you could force one or more cells down to a very low voltage. This can possibly harm the cell.

I recommend monitoring the voltage of each cell, instead of just the pack voltage, to make sure you are not overdischarging any of them. I think 2.5V under load is a good minimum to stay above to give you a bit of a safety margin.

That should give you a little idea of how a cell responds when used and at rest. Knowing how the resting and under-load voltages are different, and how to best use them, is important for getting the most out of your cells. This is true if you are staying well within the cell’s ratings or going far beyond them.

If you have enjoyed this series on cell ratings and you feel what I do is worth a couple dollars a month then please consider becoming a patron and supporting my testing efforts: Battery Mooch is creating battery and device tests | Patreon. These contributions allow me to take the time to do the research, testing, and posting that I do in addition to answering a large number of PM/email questions every day.

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If you have a Steam Crave Hadron Pro 400W TC Box Mod,you have to buy a Gas Mods Kree V2 RTA.When the two of them are combined, they bring you dense clouds and endless delicacies.Let's take a look for it.

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• Dual Post Build Deck
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• For MTL Vaping

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Maxus Max 168W Kit is one pod mod kit with a high wattage 168W output, powered by the dual 18650 external batteries. The MX Mesh Coils Series designed for Maxus Max 168W have the exact same structure of single/double/triple mesh coils of Mesh Pro Series, which can meet your sub ohm vaping needs in this pod mod kit. If you're a cloud chaser, I believe you will really enjoy this Maxus Max 168W Pod mod kit.



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Sadly I cannot get my old account back ‍
I initially came on here to do research, and that’s why I’m back lol
I don’t understand the law changes and why my local shop won’t be carrying my stuff anymore. It’s whatever, I’m fine w ordering online once y’all help me figure out where
I use an aspire k3 battery (I really love my battery) and my fav flavor is blueberry pomegranate.
I’m ok with used batteries too and will browse the classifieds on here, I bought some stuff that way many moons ago.
I’m starting to run low on liquid and atomizers, and I have no backup battery right now except for this huge but awesome mod.
Any info appreciated! I’m happy to be back and have a look around!

This is the second part of a two part post.

Example Three
Let’s look at two cells that perform very similarly, the Samsung 40T and the Molicel P42A. Knowing that they perform about the same (P42A a little better but let’s ignore that) we might look at how long each cell might last to help us decide which one to use, especially if one costs less.

The Samsung 40T is rated to deliver at least 250 cycles at room temperature before dropping down to 60% of its original capacity when discharged at 35A and charged at 6A. Another way to look at it is to say that after 250 cycles this cell will still have at least 60% of its original capacity. It might be 60.5%, it might be a lot more.

Cycle life ratings are set as minimums. It’s not a number where every one of those cells suddenly reaches the end of its life and starts performing like crap. It’s a number that all of those particular cells should reach though without dropping below the capacity they mention.

After 250 cycles some 40T’s will have dropped to 60% of their original capacity. Most will have dropped to a slightly higher level. Some though could still have a lot more capacity left and could be run for many, many more cycles before dropping to 60%.

On to the Molicel P42A…there are three cycle life ratings…
After 500 cycles at 4.2A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 80%.
After 500 cycles at 10A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 80%.
After 500 cycles at 20A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 70%.
All cycled at room temperature.

Not sure why first two ratings have the same capacity percentage…datasheet typo?

At first glance the 40T might seem like it has a really short cycle life, only 250 cycles before dropping to 60% (worst case) of its original capacity. The P42A was only dropping to 70% after 500 cycles. But these cells were discharged under very different conditions!

Both the 40T and P42A were charged quickly, 6A and 4.2A respectively, so we can say that was roughly the same (remembering that that 40T was charged faster though).

But the 40T was discharged at 35A for its cycle life testing. This high discharge rate, along with its high charge rate, is typical for a cell being used for something like a handheld vacuum cleaner. Those devices need to stay light so they have small battery packs that are run and charged very hard.

The P42A was only discharged at 4.2A, 10A, and 20A for its three cycle life ratings. This results in much lower cell temperatures and a lot less internal damage to the cell (less aging). This can significantly increase a cell’s cycle life.

How can we compare these two cells then? Can we estimate which might last longer?

If we can find the manufacturer’s technical presentation document, often created when a new cell is released, they often have cycle life graphs that can help us estimate cycle life at different charge/discharge rates. Lots of other good info too.

If we only have the datasheets specs then we can try to spot a trend that would help estimate the P42A’s cycle life at where the 40T was cycled, at 35A.

The 42A stayed above 80% at 4.2A and 10A so we know that 10A has essentially no extra aging effect on the cell versus 4.2A. At 20A it drops to 70% (at least) capacity after 500 cycles.

So a 10A increase in the discharge rate led to a 10% decrease in the minimum capacity left after 500 cycles. Going further, we might assume then that going from 20A to 30A would drop it another 10%, to 60% after 500 cycles. Then going another 5A beyond that, to 35A, might drop us to 55% after 500 cycles.

But the temperature increase from running the P42A at 20A versus the 40T at 35A is huge. At 20A you are not at a high enough temp to start breaking down some of the chemicals inside the cell. At 35A you definitely are. This speeds up the aging of the cell.

How this actually affects the cycle life of the P42A at 35A we can’t say. But it will mean that the P42A will be at a lot less than that 55% capacity mark we just calculated in my opinion. I would put it at 40% or less.

So we have a P42A at 40% after 500 cycles at 35A.
The 40T was rated at 60% after 250 cycles at 35A.

If the loss of capacity per cycle is fairly linear (it is after the first few dozen cycles and before the cell reaches the end of its life) then that means we can assume the 40T would drop to about 30% after 500 cycles.

This leaves us with…
The P42A at 40% after 500 cycles at 35A.
The 40T is at 30% after 500 cycles at 35A.

They are not too far apart! But the datasheet specs made these cells seem like they had very different overall life expectancy (if you didn’t look at the details).

Since we made so many assumptions though I don’t think we can definitively say that the P42A will have a longer cycle life than 40T. Especially since the 40T was discharged so hard when setting its rating. It might last a lot longer than the P42A when used at lower discharge rates.

The only thing that will let us accurately compare the cycle life of these two cells is testing, which is exactly what the manufacturers would tell us to do.

The cycle life numbers in the datasheets are just a guide. Unless your application matches the charge, discharge, and temperature conditions used to set the cycle life rating you can’t say that the datasheet number is what you will get.

Unfortunately this means that, like so many things associated with using li-ion cells, the details matter and we have to spend a bit more time checking into things if we want to get the most out of them.

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Hellvape Vertex MTL RTA - black/gold - $20

Damnvape Fresia MTL RTA - black - $20

VV Berserker Mini MTL RTA - gold - $25

Zenith Pro - SS - $15

Zenith Pro - black - $15

Lost Vape Grus - black - $35

Smok AL85 - white - $20

My brother, RIP - Jason, was born in 1972. At the moment I have found 7.2 watts flowing thru a 1.8 coil to provide a nice toke. This is definitely my kind of sweet spot.

Whatever you gonna name it, this masterpiece will be all you need to start your 2022 in stylish! Stay tuned, cause what's next from VAPORESSO will definitely blow you mind!

The Freemax MX Mesh Coils Series still adopt the industry-leading FM COILTECH4.0 mesh technology, equipped with Tea Fiber Cotton Formula & Military Grade SS904L Mesh Structure. Owing to the MX Platform, the MX Mesh Coils are designed for Maxus series products launched in 2021(Maxus Max 168W Kit) and beyond, transplanting the same structure of single/double/triple mesh coils of Mesh Pro Series Sub Ohm Tanks.



Because of the MX Platform, now there are four types of MX Mesh Coils available for Maxus Max 168W Kit: MX1 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm & MX2 Mesh Coil 0.2ohm & MX3 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm & MX1 SS316L Mesh Coil 0.12ohm. What’s more, MX4 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm and MX5 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm for Maxus Max 168W are coming soon.

Freemax MX1 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm (Included in the Kit)
Output Power: 50-80W (Best 70W)

Freemax MX2 Mesh Coil 0.2ohm (Included in the Kit)
Output Power: 60-90W (Best 80W)

Freemax MX3 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm (Sold Separately)
Output Power: 80-110W (Best 100W)

Freemax MX1 SS316L Mesh Coil 0.12ohm (Sold Separately)
Output Power: 40-80W (Best 70W)
Temperature Range: 400~550℉ (Best 500℉)

Freemax MX4 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm (Sold Separately)
Output Power: 70-110W (Best 95W)

Freemax MX5 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm (Sold Separately)
Output Power: 80-110W (Best 110W)

Authentic Rincoe Jellybox SE Kit is an ultra-small but powerful vape pod system, also a continuation of the Jellybox series. constructed with a zinc alloy body and satin material finish and a PEPG tank section for durable construction. It has a range of coil options between 0.3ohm and 3ohm, and has two types of coils to choose from: Mesh 1.0ohm Coil and Mesh 0.5 Ohm Coil.

Rincoe Jellybox SE Vape Kit near me SPECIFICATION

Material: Zinc alloy+PCTG+PC
Battery:500mAh Built-in
Pod capacity: 2.8ml
Power: 10-13W
Input: 3.2-4.2V
Coil resistance: 0.3-3ohm
Charging specification: 5V/1A
Efficient: 95%

Powered by 500mAh Built-in Battery, and you can expect a full day of vaping pleasure when using a Type-C USB port, which allows a 5V/1A charging specification. Rincoe Jellybox Nano Pod can hold up to 2.8ml of E-liquid, you can refill all sorts of different juices you want, satisfying both nic-salt e-liquid and freebase e-liquid.

You could go to vape shop online to learn more details.

Quick Link:Rincoe Jellybox SE Pod System Kit 500mAh 13W

You may also like:Vaporesso XROS Nano Pod System Kit 1000mAh

VOOPOO VINCI Q Pod Kit

VINCI Q Pod Kit inherited VOOPOO's unique ITO atomization tech to bring the purest flavor. It is casted by the two-tone textured injection mold and has 6 macaroon colors. Made of lightweight PC & ABS materials, it is durable in use and fashionable in appearance. VINCI Q Pod Kit is powered by a built-in 900mAh battery with Type-C charging. It comes with 11-15W adaptive power, which can intelligently match the best power to 0.8ohm or 1.2ohm cartridge. Benefit from the GENE chip and smooth airway, it has button/auto dual vaping modes and faster ignition to bring you better vaping experience. It also has 2ml e-juice capacity and easy top filling system. In addition, VINCI Q Pod Kit is compatible with VOOPOO VINCI Pod Cartridge, VINCI Pod Cartridge Royal Edition and Drag Nano 2 Pod Cartridge.

Details:
1. Inherited VOOPOO's unique ITO atomization tech
2. Two-tone textured injection mold, 6 macaroon colors
3. Lightweight ABS and PC material, durable and fashionable
4. Adopts the latest mesh tech to bring wonderful taste
5. Button/auto dual vaping modes to satisfy your preference
6. Strong GENE chip and smooth airway, faster and more sensitive
7. Lights on and off along with each puff
8. Built-in 900mAh battery, Type-C charging port
9. 11-15W of adaptive power to match the best power to 1.2/0.8Ω cartridge
10. 2ml full-view cartridge, easy and leakproof top filling system
11. Fit for VOOPOO VINCI Pod Cartridge, VINCI Pod Cartridge Royal Edition and Drag Nano 2 Pod Cartridge
12. Overtime/overcharge/over discharge/over temperature/short-circuit/output over-current protection





VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition

VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition not only inherits the portable appearance of VINCI Pod, but also utilizes classical relief sculpture technology accompanied by aeronautical material of 6061 aluminium alloy. VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition has 800mAh built-in battery with 11-15W power range. Equipped with a top-fill visible cartridge of 2ml capacity, it is convenient for you to refill it. Upgraded leak-resistant function is applied to VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition. There are two pods in the package: mesh 0.8ohm pod and mesh 1.2ohm pod. In addition, VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition is compatible with the cartridge of Vinci Q, Drag Nano 2 and Vinci Pod.

Details:
1. Compatible with the cartridge of Vinci Q, Drag Nano 2 and Vinci Pod
2. Relief sculpture masterpiece
3. Classical and modern pattern
4. 2ml visible cartridge, top filling
5. Auto-draw mode, 3-color smart LED light
6. 6061 aluminium alloy for more advanced experience
7. Comfortable and unique grip feeling
8. Upgraded leak-resistant
9. Equipped with two pods of mesh 0.8ohm and mesh 1.2ohm
10. Adjust airflow with button on the side of the device
11. Type-C fast charging
11. 800mAh built-in battery
11. Multiple protection: Overtime/Short-circuit/Overcharge/Output Over-current/Over Discharge/Over-temperature Protection