Expanding on my earlier post on cell voltage ratings. I see a lot of confusion regarding advice on how far down we can discharge a cell. The differences between these two voltages are important.

These voltages show us how the cell reacts to being used, or not used. They aren’t ratings or specs but they are important concepts for being able to best use the datasheet information.

Resting Voltage:
This is the voltage of the cell or battery pack when it has had a chance to rest after being used or charged. All of the datasheet specs are based on the resting voltage.

Under-Load Voltage:
This is the voltage of the cell or battery pack while it is being used, while it is “under load”. It is always lower than the resting voltage because of the voltage drop (“voltage sag”) caused by the internal resistance of the cell/pack.

This is not the true cell/pack voltage! It is just a lower temporary voltage seen only when it is being used. The voltage rises back up some once you stop. How much it rises depends on on how hard you were using the cell/pack.

Why is the difference between these two important?

The decisions we make about how hard we can use a cell need to take into account the differences between the resting and under-load voltages. It’s also important to mention which one of these is being discussed when talking to someone about cell performance or safety.

For example, the 2.5V low voltage spec for a “standard” li-ion cell is the resting voltage. If we are using a cell and the voltage sags down to 2.5V but bounces back up to 2.8V (or some other voltage) then we have not discharged that cell to 2.5V. The voltage sag that caused the temporarily lower voltage only made it seem like we discharged it that far. In this example we have only discharged it to 2.8V.

But if we used a cell and then stopped for a while (at least several minutes) and the voltage only rose back up to 2.5V then we should not discharge it any further. This cell has had time to settle to its true (resting) voltage and it’s down at the 2.5V low voltage rating for the cell. We should stop using this cell and charge it.

When someone says “never go below 3.0V per cell”, or some other level, it’s important to know if they are talking about the resting or under-load voltage.

Going to 3.0V/cell while being used is a lot less stressful to a cell than taking a cell down to the point where it only rises back up to 3.0V after a couple of hours. Using a cell until it drops to 3.0V means it might bounce back up to 3.3V or even a higher once you stop. But that cell with the 3.0V resting voltage might have been discharged to 2.8V or even a lot lower. This can create more heat and age the cell faster.

Charging Voltage Sag:
This is a third example of a “phantom” voltage. While charging a cell or pack you will see the opposite of what happens during discharge. The internal resistance of the cell cause a voltage rise instead of the voltage drop (sag) seen during discharge.

This is what causes the cell voltage to almost always read lower than 4.20V after charging to that voltage. The resting voltage might be pretty high, 4.19V, or it could be a lot lower, 4.15V, if the cell was older and had a lot of internal resistance or if you were charging very quickly.

This usually has very little effect on how completely the cell was charged since most chargers keep going until the current has dropped to a certain level, they are not fooled by this phantom voltage rise.

But if your cells are dropping down to around a 4.15V resting voltage, or lower, then I recommend charging slower to minimize the voltage rise in the cell. Some chargers are more sensitive to this voltage rise that than others and all chargers are affected by it a bit at high charging current levels.

Examples of Resting and Under-Load Voltages:
Examples of a cell at its resting voltage are easy to find, just don’t use the cell for a couple of hours. You can get a good idea of its resting voltage after a few minutes, perhaps just a couple of minutes, but it takes up to a few hours to come to its final resting voltage.

The under-load voltage can be seen any time a cell is being used. The harder you use the cell the bigger the difference between the resting and under-load voltages.

If you are a vaper you might have noticed this happening while taking a puff with a regulated device (with a display). The cell voltage/percentage or the number of “battery bars” will drop when you take a puff but then go back up when you stop. The higher the power setting, the larger the voltage drop will be.

If you have ever checked the voltage of your battery pack when riding an electric skateboard or e-bike you might have noticed the voltage dropping whenever you accelerate and then going back up when you are just cruising. This is the voltage sag difference between low power cruising and the high power being drawn from the battery pack when accelerating.

The under-load voltage effect isn’t only visible when comparing it to the resting voltage. The under-load voltage difference can also be seen when using a cell/pack at two different power levels (like when cruising or accelerating with an e-bike).

Using Resting and Under-Load Voltages Properly:
If we wanted to always stay above 3.0V/cell (or some other voltage) to extend cell life then we should be paying attention to the resting voltage we bring the cells down to, not the under-load voltage.

This means we can discharge our cells to under 3.0V (or whatever you chose) as long as the voltage rises back up to at least 3.0V in a couple of minutes.

If you stopped when the cells reached 3.0V/cell under load that means you might have only discharged them down to a 3.2V-3.5V (or even higher) resting voltage. This is certainly better for the cell, helping to extend its life even more, but you are missing out on the additional run time you could get by using the cells down to a 3.0V resting voltage.

How much a cell’s/pack’s voltage rises back up when you stop using it depends on how hard you are using the cell/pack. A powerbank user might have to stop at 2.90V to be sure the voltage rises back up to 3.0V. But a high power vaper or PEV rider might be able to run the cells down to 2.5V each and still have them rise back up to over a 3.0V resting voltage. You’ll have to experiment to see how your setup responds.

High power battery pack users should be very careful though if bringing the voltages down low to maximize running time (while still having a decently high resting voltage).

If the cells in the pack are unbalanced or aging, and you do not have a BMS monitoring each cell for low voltage, then you could force one or more cells down to a very low voltage. This can possibly harm the cell.

I recommend monitoring the voltage of each cell, instead of just the pack voltage, to make sure you are not overdischarging any of them. I think 2.5V under load is a good minimum to stay above to give you a bit of a safety margin.

That should give you a little idea of how a cell responds when used and at rest. Knowing how the resting and under-load voltages are different, and how to best use them, is important for getting the most out of your cells. This is true if you are staying well within the cell’s ratings or going far beyond them.

If you have enjoyed this series on cell ratings and you feel what I do is worth a couple dollars a month then please consider becoming a patron and supporting my testing efforts: Battery Mooch is creating battery and device tests | Patreon. These contributions allow me to take the time to do the research, testing, and posting that I do in addition to answering a large number of PM/email questions every day.

Rincoe Jellybox Nano X Kit utilizes UV 3D print replaceable magnetic panel and fashionable lanyard design. It features innovative airflow control system, auto draw & auto-adjust wattage, you can obtain the most comfortable experience no matter which kind of coil being used. Built with 1000mAh battery, it will provide you all-day vaping and has 10-30W power range. Jellybox Nano X Cartridge can hold 2.8ml e-juice, features side filling and is visible. What's more, it is compatible with Jellybox Nano Coil. And the package contains a mesh 1.0ohm coil for MTL vaping, and a mesh 0.5ohm coil for RDL vaping.


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• Dual Post Build Deck
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Maxus Max 168W Kit is one pod mod kit with a high wattage 168W output, powered by the dual 18650 external batteries. The MX Mesh Coils Series designed for Maxus Max 168W have the exact same structure of single/double/triple mesh coils of Mesh Pro Series, which can meet your sub ohm vaping needs in this pod mod kit. If you're a cloud chaser, I believe you will really enjoy this Maxus Max 168W Pod mod kit.



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Sadly I cannot get my old account back ‍
I initially came on here to do research, and that’s why I’m back lol
I don’t understand the law changes and why my local shop won’t be carrying my stuff anymore. It’s whatever, I’m fine w ordering online once y’all help me figure out where
I use an aspire k3 battery (I really love my battery) and my fav flavor is blueberry pomegranate.
I’m ok with used batteries too and will browse the classifieds on here, I bought some stuff that way many moons ago.
I’m starting to run low on liquid and atomizers, and I have no backup battery right now except for this huge but awesome mod.
Any info appreciated! I’m happy to be back and have a look around!

This is the second part of a two part post.

Example Three
Let’s look at two cells that perform very similarly, the Samsung 40T and the Molicel P42A. Knowing that they perform about the same (P42A a little better but let’s ignore that) we might look at how long each cell might last to help us decide which one to use, especially if one costs less.

The Samsung 40T is rated to deliver at least 250 cycles at room temperature before dropping down to 60% of its original capacity when discharged at 35A and charged at 6A. Another way to look at it is to say that after 250 cycles this cell will still have at least 60% of its original capacity. It might be 60.5%, it might be a lot more.

Cycle life ratings are set as minimums. It’s not a number where every one of those cells suddenly reaches the end of its life and starts performing like crap. It’s a number that all of those particular cells should reach though without dropping below the capacity they mention.

After 250 cycles some 40T’s will have dropped to 60% of their original capacity. Most will have dropped to a slightly higher level. Some though could still have a lot more capacity left and could be run for many, many more cycles before dropping to 60%.

On to the Molicel P42A…there are three cycle life ratings…
After 500 cycles at 4.2A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 80%.
After 500 cycles at 10A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 80%.
After 500 cycles at 20A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 70%.
All cycled at room temperature.

Not sure why first two ratings have the same capacity percentage…datasheet typo?

At first glance the 40T might seem like it has a really short cycle life, only 250 cycles before dropping to 60% (worst case) of its original capacity. The P42A was only dropping to 70% after 500 cycles. But these cells were discharged under very different conditions!

Both the 40T and P42A were charged quickly, 6A and 4.2A respectively, so we can say that was roughly the same (remembering that that 40T was charged faster though).

But the 40T was discharged at 35A for its cycle life testing. This high discharge rate, along with its high charge rate, is typical for a cell being used for something like a handheld vacuum cleaner. Those devices need to stay light so they have small battery packs that are run and charged very hard.

The P42A was only discharged at 4.2A, 10A, and 20A for its three cycle life ratings. This results in much lower cell temperatures and a lot less internal damage to the cell (less aging). This can significantly increase a cell’s cycle life.

How can we compare these two cells then? Can we estimate which might last longer?

If we can find the manufacturer’s technical presentation document, often created when a new cell is released, they often have cycle life graphs that can help us estimate cycle life at different charge/discharge rates. Lots of other good info too.

If we only have the datasheets specs then we can try to spot a trend that would help estimate the P42A’s cycle life at where the 40T was cycled, at 35A.

The 42A stayed above 80% at 4.2A and 10A so we know that 10A has essentially no extra aging effect on the cell versus 4.2A. At 20A it drops to 70% (at least) capacity after 500 cycles.

So a 10A increase in the discharge rate led to a 10% decrease in the minimum capacity left after 500 cycles. Going further, we might assume then that going from 20A to 30A would drop it another 10%, to 60% after 500 cycles. Then going another 5A beyond that, to 35A, might drop us to 55% after 500 cycles.

But the temperature increase from running the P42A at 20A versus the 40T at 35A is huge. At 20A you are not at a high enough temp to start breaking down some of the chemicals inside the cell. At 35A you definitely are. This speeds up the aging of the cell.

How this actually affects the cycle life of the P42A at 35A we can’t say. But it will mean that the P42A will be at a lot less than that 55% capacity mark we just calculated in my opinion. I would put it at 40% or less.

So we have a P42A at 40% after 500 cycles at 35A.
The 40T was rated at 60% after 250 cycles at 35A.

If the loss of capacity per cycle is fairly linear (it is after the first few dozen cycles and before the cell reaches the end of its life) then that means we can assume the 40T would drop to about 30% after 500 cycles.

This leaves us with…
The P42A at 40% after 500 cycles at 35A.
The 40T is at 30% after 500 cycles at 35A.

They are not too far apart! But the datasheet specs made these cells seem like they had very different overall life expectancy (if you didn’t look at the details).

Since we made so many assumptions though I don’t think we can definitively say that the P42A will have a longer cycle life than 40T. Especially since the 40T was discharged so hard when setting its rating. It might last a lot longer than the P42A when used at lower discharge rates.

The only thing that will let us accurately compare the cycle life of these two cells is testing, which is exactly what the manufacturers would tell us to do.

The cycle life numbers in the datasheets are just a guide. Unless your application matches the charge, discharge, and temperature conditions used to set the cycle life rating you can’t say that the datasheet number is what you will get.

Unfortunately this means that, like so many things associated with using li-ion cells, the details matter and we have to spend a bit more time checking into things if we want to get the most out of them.

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Whatever you gonna name it, this masterpiece will be all you need to start your 2022 in stylish! Stay tuned, cause what's next from VAPORESSO will definitely blow you mind!

The Freemax MX Mesh Coils Series still adopt the industry-leading FM COILTECH4.0 mesh technology, equipped with Tea Fiber Cotton Formula & Military Grade SS904L Mesh Structure. Owing to the MX Platform, the MX Mesh Coils are designed for Maxus series products launched in 2021(Maxus Max 168W Kit) and beyond, transplanting the same structure of single/double/triple mesh coils of Mesh Pro Series Sub Ohm Tanks.



Because of the MX Platform, now there are four types of MX Mesh Coils available for Maxus Max 168W Kit: MX1 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm & MX2 Mesh Coil 0.2ohm & MX3 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm & MX1 SS316L Mesh Coil 0.12ohm. What’s more, MX4 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm and MX5 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm for Maxus Max 168W are coming soon.

Freemax MX1 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm (Included in the Kit)
Output Power: 50-80W (Best 70W)

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Temperature Range: 400~550℉ (Best 500℉)

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Output Power: 70-110W (Best 95W)

Freemax MX5 Mesh Coil 0.15ohm (Sold Separately)
Output Power: 80-110W (Best 110W)

Authentic Rincoe Jellybox SE Kit is an ultra-small but powerful vape pod system, also a continuation of the Jellybox series. constructed with a zinc alloy body and satin material finish and a PEPG tank section for durable construction. It has a range of coil options between 0.3ohm and 3ohm, and has two types of coils to choose from: Mesh 1.0ohm Coil and Mesh 0.5 Ohm Coil.

Rincoe Jellybox SE Vape Kit near me SPECIFICATION

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You may also like:Vaporesso XROS Nano Pod System Kit 1000mAh

VOOPOO VINCI Q Pod Kit

VINCI Q Pod Kit inherited VOOPOO's unique ITO atomization tech to bring the purest flavor. It is casted by the two-tone textured injection mold and has 6 macaroon colors. Made of lightweight PC & ABS materials, it is durable in use and fashionable in appearance. VINCI Q Pod Kit is powered by a built-in 900mAh battery with Type-C charging. It comes with 11-15W adaptive power, which can intelligently match the best power to 0.8ohm or 1.2ohm cartridge. Benefit from the GENE chip and smooth airway, it has button/auto dual vaping modes and faster ignition to bring you better vaping experience. It also has 2ml e-juice capacity and easy top filling system. In addition, VINCI Q Pod Kit is compatible with VOOPOO VINCI Pod Cartridge, VINCI Pod Cartridge Royal Edition and Drag Nano 2 Pod Cartridge.

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6. Strong GENE chip and smooth airway, faster and more sensitive
7. Lights on and off along with each puff
8. Built-in 900mAh battery, Type-C charging port
9. 11-15W of adaptive power to match the best power to 1.2/0.8Ω cartridge
10. 2ml full-view cartridge, easy and leakproof top filling system
11. Fit for VOOPOO VINCI Pod Cartridge, VINCI Pod Cartridge Royal Edition and Drag Nano 2 Pod Cartridge
12. Overtime/overcharge/over discharge/over temperature/short-circuit/output over-current protection





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VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition not only inherits the portable appearance of VINCI Pod, but also utilizes classical relief sculpture technology accompanied by aeronautical material of 6061 aluminium alloy. VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition has 800mAh built-in battery with 11-15W power range. Equipped with a top-fill visible cartridge of 2ml capacity, it is convenient for you to refill it. Upgraded leak-resistant function is applied to VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition. There are two pods in the package: mesh 0.8ohm pod and mesh 1.2ohm pod. In addition, VINCI Pod Kit Royal Edition is compatible with the cartridge of Vinci Q, Drag Nano 2 and Vinci Pod.

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Hello again. I’m back with another review for Freemax. This time I’ll be looking at the Marvos RTA Pod. This pod is compatible with all of the Marvos series of pod mods and can work with the Marvos S with the pod tank base. The pod has two sided airflow control and the control does have a positive stop. The pod uses an 801 drip tip that has a V shaped groove at the edge to help it be more spit back resistant. The pod has a 3.5ml capacity which isn’t bad but nothing to brag about. Before I go into too much detail, let’s take a look at what’s included and some features then I’ll talk about my experience with it.




WHAT’S IN THE BOX?

1* Marvos RTA Pod 3.5ml
1* Cotton
1* 0.15ohm Mesh Coil (60W max)
1* 0.25ohm Mesh Coil (40W max)
2* Sealing Ring
1* Bending Tool
1* Screwdriver
2* Phillips Head Screw
1* User Manual
1* Desiccant




SPECIFICATIONS:

Size: Φ27.0*42.5mm

Pod Capacity: 3.5ml (standard version)

Drip Tip: Replaceable 810 drip tip

Filling Type: Bottom filling

Compatibility: Compatible with all Marvos products




FEATURES:

1. First rebuildable pod of Freemax for Marvos series products

2. two-side & top airflow control

3. Replaceable 810 drip tip for DTL vaping needs

4. V-shaped groove design at the edge of the 810 drip tip

5. Compatible with both replaceable mesh coil and DIY wires

6. A spring-loaded ceramic block to support the cotton

7. Twist-lock design for building easily

8. 3.5ml e-liquid capacity, bottom refill system

9. Strong magnets guarantee quick and perfect match with the mod














INITIAL THOUGHTS:

The packaging for the Marvos RTA Pod is the usual blue, white, and black colors with a picture of the pod on the front of the box. Rather than put the contents on the back, they chose to put the contents list on the side of the box. The box opens from either end and the pod is held in a plastic tray with the accessory items tucked underneath the tray.





I have to be honest. I was a little disappointed by two things that I noticed upon opening the box and taking it apart and inspecting the contents. The first thing I noticed was that the tank section of the pod was not glass. It’s PCTG or something and is frosted a little which makes it slightly difficult to see the liquid level if using a clear liquid but not too bad. All of the pictures on the website show a clear tank section making one think that it is clear glass. The sample I received is not clear like the pictures. The second thing I noticed is that there were only two mesh strips included. I feel like more mesh strips could have been included without affecting the price too much.

On a positive note, the tank is very easy to disassemble and clean. To remove the base it is just a quarter turn to loosen and remove. I really like that. Just like the other Marvos pods, the fill port is found on the bottom of the pod and has what feels like a good quality silicon plug. The opening was large enough to use the 10 and 50ml bottles that I normally use. A glass dropper might get a little messy but most plastic bottles should work fine. There are four magnets on the bottom of the pod and I thought that would be plenty to hold it firmly in place on the Marvos 60w that I used for testing but found that if I place a finger on the pod while firing that I can tip the pod.

The drip tip used on the pod is an 810 drip tip. It has a V shape that helps to prevent spit back but it is replaceable if you would like to use your own tip which I did.





I was very surprised by the amount of airflow that the pod offers. I ended up running the airflow less than half open the entire time I used it. It really offers a lot of airflow for a small tank. There are two narrow but long airflow slots. The airflow adjustment on my sample was very loose to turn but did have a stop. It was loose enough that I found that I frequently accidentally moved the airflow adjustment when taking it in and out of a pocket.

It’s hard to see in the picture below but it does have the Marvos name and RTA Pod etched in the bottom of the pod.



The build deck has a single Philips head screw on each side that must be loosened to insert the mesh coil. The literature says you can use standard wire coils also but I did not try one since I felt it necessary to test the pod with the included mesh strip coils. Included in the package is a hollow metal tube that is used for shaping the mesh before inserting it. Simply hold the mesh strip and bend it tightly around the tube.

I experienced some trouble with my first attempt at building the deck. When you loosen the deck screws, the clamps are not spring loaded which made it hard for me to insert the coil without getting it out of shape. The clamps kept sliding closed while I was trying to insert the mesh. In the center of the deck is a ceramic plate that does have a spring under it to push the wick up against the mesh coil. I thought I had enough cotton in the deck and trimmed and thinned the tails out quite a bit but was getting intermittent atomizer short messages and somewhat dry hits. I ended up tossing the first coil which was the .15 mesh coil along with the wick. On the second build I installed the .25 ohm mesh coil and stuffed the wick under the coil as tight as I could get it. Once again I trimmed and thinned the tails. This time I had success. I immediately could tell the cotton was more saturated but it did take a little while to break in the new coil and wick. After the second build I am fairly pleased with the flavor. I did however experience some difficulty installing the coil due to the clamps moving. I had to reshape the coil after tightening it in place.







FINAL THOUGHTS:

I have to say that I have mixed emotions after testing the Marvos RTA Pod. I did end up with decent results after the second build but do wish that more mesh strips had been included with the pod since my first attempt at building ended up being a failure.

I do like how the base is a quarter turn to remove it but both attempts at building were a bit difficult when trying to install the coil. This was mostly due to the clamps not being spring loaded. If they were then they would have stayed open while trying to insert the coil and feel like having to keep moving the clamp plates open caused my mesh to become misshapen which I believe is why I was getting an atomizer short message on the mod occasionally. I tried the pod first on the Marvos 80s and then switched to the Marvos 60W to make sure it wasn’t a problem with the mod. It seemed like the clamp plates were sticking on the screws and had to use a screwdriver to move the plates back open.

As I mentioned earlier, I wish the tank section would have been made of clear glass rather than the frosted material that the sample I received had. I am used to bottom filling on many pod mods I’ve tried before so am quite used to it but do wish that this one could have been top fill since it is an accessory for the entire Marvos line of pod mods.

I really feel like Freemax had a good idea with this RTA Pod but do feel like there are a few things that could be improved on to make it more user friendly. So there it is as honest as I can be about my experience with the Marvos RTA Pod. I’d like to thank Freemax for finally sending this for review as I’ve been wanting to try it for a while now. Also a big thanks to the readers. Below is a link to the website if you’d like to take a look.


Marvos RTA Pod | Freemax - Taste the Clouds, Feel the Flavors! (freemaxvape.com)

On Jan 1st of 2010, I saw an online ad for an ecig. I did some research and decided I would give it a try. Found Volcano and ordered a kit with the tiny cigalike batt and flavored carts. I will never forget going outside the first morning, early, as I didn't want anyone to see me using it. My first thought was, 'This could actually work.'

Of course, not knowing what I was doing, I had an equipment failure so I bought a pack of cigs and quickly ordered another kit. When I got everything up and running on 1/5, I knew this was it. I had a bit of a panic attack not having cigs around 'just in case' until I realized that if things ever got that desperate, I could go to the store and buy more, even in the middle of the night. Happy to say I never bought another pack nor did I ever smoke even one after that.

It has been an amazing 12 years and I am so thankful for the technology, the helpful people I met along the way. It saddens me to see it being taken away and I think about if I had waited until now to start vaping, I might not have had the opportunity to quit smoking.

Thanks to everyone who went on this journey with me.

Alright, we got 10 different but all tasty flavors of VECEE V4. Wondering which flavor do you like the best? And also, what's your favorite disposable vape flavor that is not shown up above?

Hop in and check out more details we put on: https://www.vecee.com/products/disposable-device/vecee-v4/

Hello everyone

I recently picked up vaping again after several years. I did some mtl the past months but I feel like I'm going to get back in to sub ohm vaping.

I did some research and was really liking the looks of the Uwell Nunchaku 2 and/or Crown 5. (Nunchaku appealed to me because I'm not a great cloud chaser so I dont need crazy watts to feel satisfied, also saving some ejuice along the way is a plus for me)

HOWEVER:
I was about to order the Nunchaku 2, when I found an old Smok TFV8 Big Baby in my closet catching dust, which I totally forgot I still had and hasn't been used in like 4 years.

Now my questing for the experienced vapers around here:

Should I save some bucks and stick with the Big Baby (I would need to get new coils, any recommendations are welcome as I have no clue which ones are compatible these days except for the original standard ones) or just go with a new, more modern tank thats a little more up to date?

In order words: Is the Smok TFV8 Big Baby still worth it in 2022?

Curious about your opinions
Thanks!

So who is going to the Expo that is on 27th to 29th May 22?

Been over 2 years since the last one and they have both dates up on there site for May and October 22.

The new Target 200 gives it all, and leaves you wanting just one more thing – to never leave.

Looking to buy an ohman uno rba if you have one that isn't getting any love anymore.

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