Hello once again and welcome to today's review of a Squonk Kit from Lost Vape. As the title opening says this is the Centaurus BF Kit with Lost Vape entering the RDA market with their first RDA included with the kit. I will tell you immediately that this kit is a real looker with it's stunning appearance but appearance alone does not make a device or kit for that matter, has Lost Vape hit the mark with this kit that by the way can be used as a regular mod as well with a unique feature that's included also. I'll give you my findings on this kit in my review but first lets see what the Lost Vape Centaurus Quest BF Squonk Kit is all about.




COLOR CHOICES





INCLUDED IN THE BOX


* 1pc Centaurus Quest BF Box Mod

* 1pc Centaurus Solo RDA

* 1pc Spare Drip Tip

* 1pc Spare Parts Bag

* 1pc 9.5ml Liquid Bottle

* 1pc 18650 Battery Adaptor

* 1pc Type-C Cable

* 1pc User Manual

* 1pc Warranty Card




FEATURES


* Chipset: Quest 2.0chip

* Power Range: 5-100W

* liquid Capacity: 9.5ml

* Battery: 21700/20700/18650 Single Battery (Not Included)

* Coil Resistance Supported: 0.1ohm-5.0ohm

* Output Voltage: 0.7V-8.0V

* Battery Voltage: 3.0V-4.2V

* Input Current: 1A-35A

* Temperature Range: 200F-600F(100C-315C)

* Screen Pixel: 0.96 inch 80*160

* Body Material: Zinc-Alloy

* 56.1 * 27.6 * 92.5 mm


100W MAX OUTPUT - CAN USE (21700, 20700, 18650) BATTERY





ATTRACTIVE COLOR CHOICES





QUEST 2.0 CHIPSET WITH 8 POWER MODES
( UPDATED )





LEAK-PROOF





SQUONK OR TRADITIONAL MOD WITH BUILT-IN JUICE FILL BOTTLE





9.5 ML CAPACITY ON BOTH BOTTLES





HOW TO USE





HOW TO FILL BOTH BOTTLES





CENTAURUS SOLO RDA





COLOR CHOICES





ATTRACTIVE CENTAURUS IMAGE





DUAL AIRFLOW SLOTS





CENTAURUS SOLO RDA PARAMETERS






CENTAURUS SOLO RDA BREAKDOWN





CENTAURUS MOD AND SOLO RDA BREAKDOWN





UNBOXING AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS


Packaging is very nice with the content box sliding out out a outer shell as most do, lifting off the top of the box reveals the Centaurus mod with the RDA already installed on it in a plastic tray, below the tray sits the 2nd juice bottle, charge cord, 18650 battery adapter, 2nd drip tip, spare O-rings, 2 solid 510 pins, user manual and warranty card.

I received the SS Ukiran leather that is done in a breathtaking Blue color that really impressed me. The first thing I wanted to see was Lost Vapes first RDA and see if there were any new RDA designs with it. At first glance after pulling the top barrel off I noticed this was going to be a very simple and easy RDA to build and wick because it has a velocity type of coil connection, but the airflow design was different, more about that in a bit. The 2nd bottle has a tiny silicone cap that's attached to the bottle that prevents spillage from the it after your finished filling a tank or dripping on a RDA. (Handle with care, very tiny connecter).





First and foremost was breaking down the RDA to it's 4 individual pieces including the drip tip for a warm bath of Dawn and water, I say it all the time and I'm going to say it again folks, clean your new atomizers before using them, the RDA appeared clean when I disassembled it but faint machine oil is always a possibility. After cleaning I laid out the 4 components of the RDA for you to see them in before reassembly.





As you can see the Centaurus RDA is a Velocity style RDA for coil leg attachment, being a top to bottom airflow type there are some turns that the airflow makes before hitting the coil on a slant from the bottom up, in the above picture you can see the 2 protruding airflow funnels on the inside of the outer barrel that connect to the 2 on the deck, also note the 2 tiny tabs on the deck that connect to the outer barrel's 2 cutouts inside it.

I decided on a Triple Core Fused Clapton coil at 3.0mm that came out at 0.31Ω. This is such a easy deck to build on and wick, when deciding on coil placement I found the best results are to center the coil and raise it to where the top of the coil is even with the top of both post. Airflow hits the coil at a angle and this position has the airflow hitting the coil at the bottom and middle of it. Because the air channels are far apart from each other I would recommend using a 3mm or 3.5mm coil.





Wicking the RDA is also a easy process, after the cotton is installed in the coil thin out a bit and fluff the tails then cut the tails at the base, this gives you plenty of fluffy cotton to place in the wells. I would test the squonk function and after you see it working correctly paint the coil and wicks set your wattage and pulse the coil and repaint a few times to break the coil in.

I think this RDA is a very nice match with the gorgeous mod and the clear drip tip gives it a nice accent along with the Centaurus logo. I can't tell you if the carbon fiber on the device is real or not but it looks and feels like it is. As you look through the pictures in my review you will see Lost Vape kept branding to a minimum of 2 placements.







On the bottom is where the battery compartment cover and squonk bottle covers are, the battery cover has the flip up handle as many devices that have bottom battery installations do, the squonk bottle cover next to it is very small and a bit of a pain trying to grasp it to unscrew for filling, mine takes 6 twist to unscrew but the battery cover takes 10 twist, I'm not a big fan of this type of battery cover but they are secure and proven over time to work well. 3 venting holes are also on the cover. Be careful not to lose the squonk bottle cap because it's so small it can easily happen.

The bottle can be filled while it's installed on the mod or when it's off, to remove the bottle from the mod just pull down from the top or bottom of the bottle and it just slides off a rail. Installing the bottle back on the mod is just as easy and clicks into place at the end of it's ride back up the rail.







I think Lost Vape had a great idea with the 2nd bottle because some people will want to use a different atomizer from time to time whether it be another RDA or a Tank but still use the mod, this way they can.

The 2nd bottle installs with the bottle side being placed inward toward the mod and having the hard plastic side facing outward. There is a tiny cap on the fill end that is secured to the bottle, how long this cap stays secured to the bottle remains to be seen, it is very tiny and thin (be gentle with it) but you can see it in the picture below.





The side of the device is where the squonking action takes place and the way the layout is makes this a very ergonomic squonk device, with the leather spine nestled in the crook of your hand your index finger lines up perfectly with the fire button leaving your middle finger placed right on the squonk bottle for a perfect position to press the bottle. Lost Vape really did a great job designing the device, everything just lines up perfectly in your hand. The fire button hits very fast with no delay whatsoever, I like the way it's angled and not flat, it's strictly for looks and I like it.

One thing that I forgot to mention earlier about the RDA is the airflow adjustment control is the top cap, there is a arrow above each airflow slot pointing up toward it. With the few 90° turns the airflow takes to get to the coil some turbulence is present but very little, flavor is very good but with a more direct route of airflow I think it would be even better. Not bad for a first RDA.






I'm so glad the Quest 2.0 chipset is in the Centaurus device because I think other than a DNA chipset the Quest 2.0 is the best as of this date because it is so easy to navigate, OHMS are spot on, immediately fires, 3 user presets, six different color display screens, brightness adjustment, atomizer measure setting, and gives the user every power mode they could ask for with 8 power modes.

The front of the device has all your controls and type-c charge port under the colored display screen with the up button being on top and the down button being on the bottom and a dedicated menu button in between them . There is a angular design at the top of the face plate that looks nice by giving it a faceted look.


DISPLAY SCREEN FROM LEFT TO RIGHT & UP & DOWN

* Ohm Load

* Battery Percentage And Battery Bar

* Power Mode

* Wattage, Bypass, Voltage, VPC - (VARIABLE POWER CURVE), Ni, Ti, SS316, SS904

* Seconds Of Your Last Vape

* User Preset - 1 through 3

* Power Mode Preset - Soft, Normal, Hard

* Puff Counter

* Settings








USING THE MENU


Lost Vape made their menu system very easy to operate by using a menu button. To enter the menu or make wattage, voltage, temp or seconds adjustments simply press the middle button, that is your menu button. First using the up or down buttons move to the selection that you want to adjust, once there press the menu button and your selection will become highlighted, now use the up or down button to adjust your selection. In the settings section there are many options to chose from.

* Atomizer - ( Resistance Check )

* Screen - ( Brightness Control )

* Color - ( Display Screen Colors ) Blue, Yellow, White, Red, Green, Purple

* User - ( 3 individual Presets For You To Set However You Like )

* Reset - ( Clears The Puff Counter And Reset The Device )


BASIC FUNCTIONS

* On/Off - 5 Quick Presses Of The Fire Button

* Wattage, Voltage, Temperature, And VPC Lock/Unlock - Press And Hold The Up And Down Buttons Simultaneously



PROS OF THE CENTAURUS MOD

* Attractive

* Ergonomic

* 21700, 20700, 18650 Battery Option

* No Leak & Mess Free

* Quest 2.0 Chipset

* Bright And Vivid Display Screen

* 6 Display Screen Color Options

* Dedicated Menu Button

* Type-C

* Squonk Bottle Rail System

* Extra Drip Tip

* 2nd Bottle

* 8 Power Modes

* 3 Individual Presets

* Easy Bottle Removal

* 2 Solid 510 Pins Included

* 9.5ml Bottle



CONS OF THE CENTAURUS MOD

* Tiny Bottle Cover



PROS OF THE CENTAURUS RDA

* Attractive

* Easy Build Deck

* Easy To Wick

* Very Good Flavor

* Dual Adjustable Airflow Slots

* Leak Free


CONS OF THE CENTAURUS SOLO RDA

* Airflow Is A Bit Turbulent But Passable

* No Coil Or Cotton Included

* Noisy


USING THE CENTAURUS QUEST BF KIT


I'm pretty sure that by now you know how much I enjoy this kit. Right off the bat it's beauty really captivated me and having the Quest 2.0 chipset which in my opinion is the best one out there as of today's date other than a DNA of course. The Quest 2.0 chipset has every feature you could want. I don't use temp control so I cant tell you how accurate it is in that department.

The options of this chip really hit the mark with a bullseye every time and this was no different. The way the buttons and bottle placement line up in my hand are perfect when finger firing the device or turning it around and thumb firing it.

Using a rail system for both bottles works very well and it secures the bottle with a click letting you know it's in place, providing a 2nd bottle that installs with the soft silicone going on the inside and having the hard plastic side facing out that matches the mod for refilling a different atomizer you wish to use that's not bottom fed through a hollow 510. It's a huge plus having the ability to use the mod in non squonk mode if you wish to.

I tell you folks this squonk mod is almost perfect except for the tiny bottle cover that for me is a pain to open because of my rather large hands and fingers.

I think Lost Vape did a great job on their first RDA, flavor is very good and would have been even better if the airflow didn't have the few turns in it's route to hitting the coil, also it would have provided a smoother airflow as well.

Building and wicking on the deck is a breeze making so user friendly, just remember to raise your coil to meet the airflow that is slanted upward, having the top of your coil even with both post gives the best performance for flavor.

There is a lot of space between both airflow post so I recommend using a 3mm or larger coil for a better experience.

In the time that I have been using this kit I have not had a leak from the bottle or RDA, it helps that the airflow post are high preventing a over squonk. A word of caution is not to squonk just before refilling the bottle because the RDA will be upside down and any excess juice sitting in the wells will spill out.

So in closing I will highly recommend this kit to you all, just about every feature you would want in a mod is in the Centaurus Quest BF Kit, and for their first RDA I commend Lost Vape on job well done. It's a winner folks!!!

I would like to thank Healthcabin for providing the Centaurus Quest BF Kit for the purpose of this review, the Centaurus BF Kit can be purchased at Healthcabin using this link and remember to sign in first for 30% off. Lost Vape Centaurus Quest BF 100W Kit

THANK YOU
BIGBOB2322

I read there is one that holds 8 ml but I don't recall the name. Does anyone which tank holds the most juice?

Hi I'm trying to get the right adjustments to my new voopoo drag S and I had used a few nord mods but never liked those as much
So next few questions I finally could get flavor and an enjoyable drag off my voopoo going at 40 watts with 50/50 salt nic juice head brand but I know that's not the correct option ‍ I was using 1.20 T1 coils anyways lowered it in my 0.3 coil burning at 35 watts still can't get much flavors out of it ‍ any suggestions on how to get more flavor out of my voopoo drag s please?

Hello and welcome back for yet another review by yours truly. Today I will be taking a look at the Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W Kit that was sent to me by Lost Vape in order to provide this review for you. The Solo is yet another great mod in the Lost Vape line that uses the Quest 2.0 chip that many of us have come to like very much and has been used in previous releases such as the Centaurus BF, Thelema 200W, Ursa, Grus, and Cyborg. The Solo plays off of the Thelema design as far as appearance and has a C frame for battery loading which I like very much. The kit includes the same UB Pro pod tank which is in fact a great performer but I feel like it’s time for Lost Vape to come out with a new tank or even an RTA to pair with the kits. Either way, I don’t think you will be disappointed if you decide to try this kit. Let’s take a look and see what’s included and look at some specifications then I’ll talk about my experiences with it.






WHAT’S IN THE BOX?

1* Thelema Solo 100W Box Mod

1* 5ml UB Pro Pod Tank

1* 0.15ohm UB Pro P1 Coil

1* 0.3ohm UB Pro P3 Coil

1* 18650 Battery Adapter

4* O-rings

1* Type-C Cable

1* User Manual

1* Warranty Card





SPECIFICATIONS:

Dimension 39*28.5*97.5mm

Battery 21700/18650 battery (not included)

Input Voltage 5V

Battery Voltage 3.0V-4.2V

Output Voltage 0.7V-8V

Power Range 5-100W

Current Range 1A-35A

Temperature Range 100℃-315℃/200℉-600℉

Coil Resistance Supported 0.15ohm-5.0ohm

Coil Material Supported Nickel/Titanium/SS316/SS904/Kanthal

Screen Pixel 0.96 inch 80*160

Body Material Zinc Alloy

E-juice Capacity 5ml

Color Full Leather Series: Black Classic Black, SS Mineral Green, Gunmetal Ochre Brown

Carbon Fiber Leather Series: Black Carbon Fiber, SS Carbon Fiber, Gunmetal Carbon Fiber, Sierra Blue Carbon Fiber, Matt Red Carbon Fiber




FEATURES:

1. Thelema Solo 100W Mod with UB Pro Pod Tank

2. Single 21700/18650 battery

3. Replaceable battery door

4. Quest 2.0 chip performs extremely steady all the time

5. Five vaping modes: Wattage/VPC/Bypass/Voltage/Temperature Control (SS904/SS316/Ti/Ni) mode

6. 3 user records while normal coil, TC coil and RBA

7. Compatible with UB Pro coils

8. DC 5V Type-C fast charging

9. Unique overlay & genuine leather

10. Multiple protections: Short Circuit/Weak Battery/Overheat/10S Over-time Protection





















INITIAL THOUGHTS:

The packaging for the Thelema Solo arrived in normal Lost Vape style. The white box with black writing and picture of the device inside on the front has become their signature design in my mind. As usual the package contents are on the back of the box along with a security code.

I know I’ve mentioned this once or twice before but like how Lost Vape wraps their mods in a protective cover for shipping. It’s that little extra bit of care that helps to set them apart. One other thing I liked and didn’t notice until opening the Solo was how the accessory box has the contents listed on the box so you know whether you even need to open that box or not to get you started. I personally did not since I have a ton of charging cables and intended on running the mod with a 21700.







I have the Thelema Quest as well as the Thelema DNA250C and feel like Lost Vape did a fantastic job keeping with the Thelema design and aesthetics. On one side is the Lost Vape name while on the opposite side is Thelema Solo. I received the stainless steel carbon fiber version so on the back of the mod is a carbon fiber covering with very little padding. A very attractive looking combination in my opinion.

The carbon fiber covering is part of the C frame battery cover. I like very much that they decided to go with this type of battery cover instead of a screw on battery cap on the bottom like some of their previous mods. To me this helps to keep the feel of the original Thelema design. You can see in the picture below that once the cover is removed that the battery polarity is clearly marked.







The front of the mod will look familiar to you if you have used any of the recent releases from Lost Vape in the Quest line of devices. This mod as well as a handful of previous mods released by Lost Vape uses the Quest 2.0 chipset. In my opinion it is a close runner up to the DNA chipset.

The large square fire button is near the top of the device followed by the vibrant display screen as well as the +, menu, and – buttons. Near the bottom of the mod face is the USB-C fast charging port. The display screen shows the following information.

- Coil resistance and battery percentage on top

- Mode of operation( Power, Bypass, Voltage, VPC, Ni, Ti, SS316, SS904)

- Wattage or temperature set

- Pod or Mod mode and user profile

- Normal/ Soft/ Hard operation mode and puff counter

- Setting on bottom that takes you into the menu system


The solos offers five modes of operation:

1. VPC Mode

2. BYPASS Mode

3. Wattage Mode (with soft, norm, and hard preheat level options),

4. Voltage Mode

5. Temperature Control Mode (SS904/SS316/Ti/Ni)


Inside the settings menu there are more options. They are:


- Atomizer( tells atomizer resistance and current settings)

- Screen( adjust screen brightness)

- User( three settable user profiles)

- Reset

- About( shows software version)



3 User Records

Allows you to create presets of different modes and easily switch between 3 user records while using normal coil, TC coil and RBA.


The Solo just like the other mods using the Quest 2.0 chip offers multiple safety features.

MULTIPLE PROTECTIONS:

①Short-Circuit Protection

②Weak Battery Protection

③Over Heat Protection

④10 seconds over-time protection





If you choose to get the full kit then it will include the UB Pro pod tank that has been released for some time now and was included with prior kits. I won’t go into great detail on the pod tank since I’ve covered it in my previous reviews. I will say that this tank is a great performer for flavor and vapor production whether it’s using the included coils or the optional rba. The included coils are the following.

UB Pro P1 Coil 0.15Ω

Coil resistance: 0.15Ω Mesh Coil

Rate: 70-90W

Available for DL



UB Pro P3 Coil 0.3Ω

Coil resistance: 0.3Ω Mesh Coil

Rate: 60-70W / 260-290℃ / 500-550℉

Available for DL


Also available as a separate purchase is the RBA which in my opinion works very well and is definitely worth the purchase price.

UB Pro RBA Deck

Resistance Range: 0.15-3.0 Ω

For DIY



FINAL THOUGHTS:

I feel like the Thelema Solo 100W kit is yet another great offering from Lost Vape. It kept with the design and aesthetics of the previous Thelema models while bringing the new feel of a thinner single battery version that will allow you to use either an 18650 with the included adapter or a 21700 for extended battery life. It seems to me that the Quest 2.0 chipset does a pretty good job of power management and felt like I got very long battery life with the 21700 battery being used.

I very much like the C frame design for battery replacement more so than the previous threaded cap design that has become very popular across different brands of mods. I do have to say that the unit I received had a little movement in the battery cover. It wasn’t terrible but if I shifted it in my hand the right way then I did get a little shifting from the cover.

The UB Pro tank and coils are tried and proven time after time to provide very good flavor and vapor production in my opinion. I personally prefer the .3 ohm coils and that is what I have chosen to stock up on. If you are one that doesn’t like to stock coils then the RBA is a great option. It is a fairly large unit which makes it easier to build compared to most that I’ve tried. Not only is it easy to build but also provides superior flavor whether you use a simple round wire coil or some other exotic coil.

I’d like to thank Lost Vape and Antonia for sending the Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W kit for this review. Of course, a big thanks to all the readers. I know a lot of you don’t post comments but still appreciate you taking the time to read my reviews. Below is a link to the Lost Vape website if you’d like to take a look. They offer a wide variety of devices and I haven’t tried a bad one yet.


Thelema Solo 100W Kit – Lost Vape

Interested in purchasing Aspire CF Mods

I am looking to sell / trade my Mölly v3 18650 mech squonker. It will come with a black bottle, grey pouch and of course the Mölly squonker. It has 2/4 magnets in the door and a very small mark on the left side of the door. Please see pictures and request more if desired. Color is a grey design on the black body. Not sure why it looks purple on here.

$160 F&F shipped to your door or add fees for G&S

Trades would include:
Harpy
Bolt
Plug
Spade v2
18650/20700/21700

Thanks for looking!!

Hello,
i have restarted vaping recently, thankfully I had stored everything in a box, including wire spools and wick material. Other than SS316 wire, I also have a few spools of Ni200, from 24 to 30 Ga. Unfortunately it's not easy to make a Ni200 with enough resistance to be recognised by the mod (I think it needs at least 0.05). I've got 22mm atomisers, so there's only enough room for 5 rounds(?) per coil. The "best" I got so far was 0.06, with 30 Ga wire.
I like vaping with a Ni200 coil, I prefer the taste of it compared to SS316. I only vape with TC enabled, and from what I remember, there's not many more types of wire that can be used with TC. So is there a way to obtain higher resistance coils, with the same wire?

The XROS Family from Vaporesso is very popular for beginners. Here comes the newest member -XROS NANO. Unlike the former 3 members are long slim style, while the XROS NANO is square-shape. Is it better than the other members? Let’s check it out in this review.




Main Features:
1. Top-filling XROS series 0.8/1.2ohm Pod with SSS leak-resistant technology
2. Consistent & great flavor till the last puff, with accurate airflow control valve
3. 1000mAh built-in battery, with tiding battery indicator
4. Made of Aluminum Alloy material, with a contemporary & trendy look

Let's check out the Vaporesso XROS Series quick comparison chart below.

XROS Nano vs XROS 2 vs XROS MINI vs XROS

With a smaller size and a lanyard hole, XROS Nano is convenient for travel, you can hang it around your neck.

Learn More:
Vaporesso XROS NANO
Vaporesso XROS 2

ElegoMall provides worldwide shipping and competitive price for all the customers, register on ElegoMall now to get your new user coupon and enjoy better price of more latest vape kits.

And for any inquires of Vaporesso wholesale or any vape wholesale in China, feel free to contact ElegoMall.

Today，I wanna tell you about Jellybox Air X Kit for sale which has a 1000mAh built-in battery with 10-30W power. 3D print replacement magnetic panels are designed for Jellybox Air X for good texture and strong protection. A fashionable lanyard is applied for Jellybox Air X pod system Kit cheap. Equipped with innovative airflow system, it will provide you the most comfortable vaping experience.

In addition, it also features auto draw & auto-adjust wattage. The pod of 3.5ml capacity is visible and features side filling. Jellybox Air X Kit is compatible with Jellybox Nano Coil. And the package contains a mesh 1.0ohm coil for MTL vaping, and a mesh 0.5ohm coil for RDL vaping.

If you want a cool pod system kit,please go to vape store near me.

You may also like:

Geekvape H45 (Aegis Hero 2) Pod Mod Kit 1400mAh 45W
PAX Era Life Vaporizer

Hello friends, we bring a new round of giveaways and the prize is the new Voopoo Vinci Q Kit. We wish you like it.

Voopoo Vinci Q Pod System Kit is a lightweight and portable Pod system with multi-layer texture, anti-fingerprint and stylish appearance. Voopoo Vinci Q Pod Kit uses 900mah built-in battery with LED indicator to show battery life. The Voopoo Vinci Q kit has a button or pull ignition function.

More details about this kit can see in VOOPOO VINCI Q Pod System Kit 900mAh 15W

Simple to enter:

1. Do you like Voopoo vape brand products, which one do you like best?

2. Which new Voopoo brand products do you like best recently?

3. Now that disposable kit has become increasingly popular, which factor of disposable kit will attract you more? Puffs, taste, price, quality, or just brand?

Note:

1. You must be 21 or older.
2. The contest will end on 22.01.2022 and one winner will be chosen via random.org.
3. Number your replies.
4. Each entrant with no more than 3 replies.

Maxus DTL Pod by Freemax adopts a user-friendly side-filling design. So do you know what are the advantages over the vape kits with the bottom filling system?

It’s super easy to refill the 5mL Maxus DTL Pod by simply opening the plug and injecting e-liquid without detaching the pod from the mod. It just only needs two steps to finish refilling vape juice into Maxus DTL Pod. However, the vape starter kits with the bottom filling system need three steps - First, you need to detach one pod from the mod, then open the plug and refill the pod.

Hello,
i used to smoke around 6-7 cigarette a day , and trying to give up on it this year ...so i bought disposable pod like (solo 600 ) , which i found quite good and satisfying just like cigarette ...unfortunately that is too expensive ...so i am looking for vaping option , so i bought nord4 , and tried couple of things below,
1) eliquid 50/50 ratio with 6 mg nicotine salt in it
2) coil of both nord rpm 0.4 and 1.2 ohm, even though its said , 1.5 ohm is better for mtl vaping , i found 0.4 ohm at 24 watt , a bit better
with all of this , i find , my current setup very light in throat hit , and nicotine absorption.

So , my question , is how to i get more closer taste to disposable cigarette , something that mimics close to it , in my current setup for Nord4 or Nord4 isn't meant to be used like a Pod at all ?
Please, let me know

Thanks,

Expanding on my earlier post on cell voltage ratings. I see a lot of confusion regarding advice on how far down we can discharge a cell. The differences between these two voltages are important.

These voltages show us how the cell reacts to being used, or not used. They aren’t ratings or specs but they are important concepts for being able to best use the datasheet information.

Resting Voltage:
This is the voltage of the cell or battery pack when it has had a chance to rest after being used or charged. All of the datasheet specs are based on the resting voltage.

Under-Load Voltage:
This is the voltage of the cell or battery pack while it is being used, while it is “under load”. It is always lower than the resting voltage because of the voltage drop (“voltage sag”) caused by the internal resistance of the cell/pack.

This is not the true cell/pack voltage! It is just a lower temporary voltage seen only when it is being used. The voltage rises back up some once you stop. How much it rises depends on on how hard you were using the cell/pack.

Why is the difference between these two important?

The decisions we make about how hard we can use a cell need to take into account the differences between the resting and under-load voltages. It’s also important to mention which one of these is being discussed when talking to someone about cell performance or safety.

For example, the 2.5V low voltage spec for a “standard” li-ion cell is the resting voltage. If we are using a cell and the voltage sags down to 2.5V but bounces back up to 2.8V (or some other voltage) then we have not discharged that cell to 2.5V. The voltage sag that caused the temporarily lower voltage only made it seem like we discharged it that far. In this example we have only discharged it to 2.8V.

But if we used a cell and then stopped for a while (at least several minutes) and the voltage only rose back up to 2.5V then we should not discharge it any further. This cell has had time to settle to its true (resting) voltage and it’s down at the 2.5V low voltage rating for the cell. We should stop using this cell and charge it.

When someone says “never go below 3.0V per cell”, or some other level, it’s important to know if they are talking about the resting or under-load voltage.

Going to 3.0V/cell while being used is a lot less stressful to a cell than taking a cell down to the point where it only rises back up to 3.0V after a couple of hours. Using a cell until it drops to 3.0V means it might bounce back up to 3.3V or even a higher once you stop. But that cell with the 3.0V resting voltage might have been discharged to 2.8V or even a lot lower. This can create more heat and age the cell faster.

Charging Voltage Sag:
This is a third example of a “phantom” voltage. While charging a cell or pack you will see the opposite of what happens during discharge. The internal resistance of the cell cause a voltage rise instead of the voltage drop (sag) seen during discharge.

This is what causes the cell voltage to almost always read lower than 4.20V after charging to that voltage. The resting voltage might be pretty high, 4.19V, or it could be a lot lower, 4.15V, if the cell was older and had a lot of internal resistance or if you were charging very quickly.

This usually has very little effect on how completely the cell was charged since most chargers keep going until the current has dropped to a certain level, they are not fooled by this phantom voltage rise.

But if your cells are dropping down to around a 4.15V resting voltage, or lower, then I recommend charging slower to minimize the voltage rise in the cell. Some chargers are more sensitive to this voltage rise that than others and all chargers are affected by it a bit at high charging current levels.

Examples of Resting and Under-Load Voltages:
Examples of a cell at its resting voltage are easy to find, just don’t use the cell for a couple of hours. You can get a good idea of its resting voltage after a few minutes, perhaps just a couple of minutes, but it takes up to a few hours to come to its final resting voltage.

The under-load voltage can be seen any time a cell is being used. The harder you use the cell the bigger the difference between the resting and under-load voltages.

If you are a vaper you might have noticed this happening while taking a puff with a regulated device (with a display). The cell voltage/percentage or the number of “battery bars” will drop when you take a puff but then go back up when you stop. The higher the power setting, the larger the voltage drop will be.

If you have ever checked the voltage of your battery pack when riding an electric skateboard or e-bike you might have noticed the voltage dropping whenever you accelerate and then going back up when you are just cruising. This is the voltage sag difference between low power cruising and the high power being drawn from the battery pack when accelerating.

The under-load voltage effect isn’t only visible when comparing it to the resting voltage. The under-load voltage difference can also be seen when using a cell/pack at two different power levels (like when cruising or accelerating with an e-bike).

Using Resting and Under-Load Voltages Properly:
If we wanted to always stay above 3.0V/cell (or some other voltage) to extend cell life then we should be paying attention to the resting voltage we bring the cells down to, not the under-load voltage.

This means we can discharge our cells to under 3.0V (or whatever you chose) as long as the voltage rises back up to at least 3.0V in a couple of minutes.

If you stopped when the cells reached 3.0V/cell under load that means you might have only discharged them down to a 3.2V-3.5V (or even higher) resting voltage. This is certainly better for the cell, helping to extend its life even more, but you are missing out on the additional run time you could get by using the cells down to a 3.0V resting voltage.

How much a cell’s/pack’s voltage rises back up when you stop using it depends on how hard you are using the cell/pack. A powerbank user might have to stop at 2.90V to be sure the voltage rises back up to 3.0V. But a high power vaper or PEV rider might be able to run the cells down to 2.5V each and still have them rise back up to over a 3.0V resting voltage. You’ll have to experiment to see how your setup responds.

High power battery pack users should be very careful though if bringing the voltages down low to maximize running time (while still having a decently high resting voltage).

If the cells in the pack are unbalanced or aging, and you do not have a BMS monitoring each cell for low voltage, then you could force one or more cells down to a very low voltage. This can possibly harm the cell.

I recommend monitoring the voltage of each cell, instead of just the pack voltage, to make sure you are not overdischarging any of them. I think 2.5V under load is a good minimum to stay above to give you a bit of a safety margin.

That should give you a little idea of how a cell responds when used and at rest. Knowing how the resting and under-load voltages are different, and how to best use them, is important for getting the most out of your cells. This is true if you are staying well within the cell’s ratings or going far beyond them.

If you have enjoyed this series on cell ratings and you feel what I do is worth a couple dollars a month then please consider becoming a patron and supporting my testing efforts: Battery Mooch is creating battery and device tests | Patreon. These contributions allow me to take the time to do the research, testing, and posting that I do in addition to answering a large number of PM/email questions every day.

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Sadly I cannot get my old account back ‍
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I don’t understand the law changes and why my local shop won’t be carrying my stuff anymore. It’s whatever, I’m fine w ordering online once y’all help me figure out where
I use an aspire k3 battery (I really love my battery) and my fav flavor is blueberry pomegranate.
I’m ok with used batteries too and will browse the classifieds on here, I bought some stuff that way many moons ago.
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This is the second part of a two part post.

Example Three
Let’s look at two cells that perform very similarly, the Samsung 40T and the Molicel P42A. Knowing that they perform about the same (P42A a little better but let’s ignore that) we might look at how long each cell might last to help us decide which one to use, especially if one costs less.

The Samsung 40T is rated to deliver at least 250 cycles at room temperature before dropping down to 60% of its original capacity when discharged at 35A and charged at 6A. Another way to look at it is to say that after 250 cycles this cell will still have at least 60% of its original capacity. It might be 60.5%, it might be a lot more.

Cycle life ratings are set as minimums. It’s not a number where every one of those cells suddenly reaches the end of its life and starts performing like crap. It’s a number that all of those particular cells should reach though without dropping below the capacity they mention.

After 250 cycles some 40T’s will have dropped to 60% of their original capacity. Most will have dropped to a slightly higher level. Some though could still have a lot more capacity left and could be run for many, many more cycles before dropping to 60%.

On to the Molicel P42A…there are three cycle life ratings…
After 500 cycles at 4.2A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 80%.
After 500 cycles at 10A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 80%.
After 500 cycles at 20A discharge/4.2A charge the capacity will be at least 70%.
All cycled at room temperature.

Not sure why first two ratings have the same capacity percentage…datasheet typo?

At first glance the 40T might seem like it has a really short cycle life, only 250 cycles before dropping to 60% (worst case) of its original capacity. The P42A was only dropping to 70% after 500 cycles. But these cells were discharged under very different conditions!

Both the 40T and P42A were charged quickly, 6A and 4.2A respectively, so we can say that was roughly the same (remembering that that 40T was charged faster though).

But the 40T was discharged at 35A for its cycle life testing. This high discharge rate, along with its high charge rate, is typical for a cell being used for something like a handheld vacuum cleaner. Those devices need to stay light so they have small battery packs that are run and charged very hard.

The P42A was only discharged at 4.2A, 10A, and 20A for its three cycle life ratings. This results in much lower cell temperatures and a lot less internal damage to the cell (less aging). This can significantly increase a cell’s cycle life.

How can we compare these two cells then? Can we estimate which might last longer?

If we can find the manufacturer’s technical presentation document, often created when a new cell is released, they often have cycle life graphs that can help us estimate cycle life at different charge/discharge rates. Lots of other good info too.

If we only have the datasheets specs then we can try to spot a trend that would help estimate the P42A’s cycle life at where the 40T was cycled, at 35A.

The 42A stayed above 80% at 4.2A and 10A so we know that 10A has essentially no extra aging effect on the cell versus 4.2A. At 20A it drops to 70% (at least) capacity after 500 cycles.

So a 10A increase in the discharge rate led to a 10% decrease in the minimum capacity left after 500 cycles. Going further, we might assume then that going from 20A to 30A would drop it another 10%, to 60% after 500 cycles. Then going another 5A beyond that, to 35A, might drop us to 55% after 500 cycles.

But the temperature increase from running the P42A at 20A versus the 40T at 35A is huge. At 20A you are not at a high enough temp to start breaking down some of the chemicals inside the cell. At 35A you definitely are. This speeds up the aging of the cell.

How this actually affects the cycle life of the P42A at 35A we can’t say. But it will mean that the P42A will be at a lot less than that 55% capacity mark we just calculated in my opinion. I would put it at 40% or less.

So we have a P42A at 40% after 500 cycles at 35A.
The 40T was rated at 60% after 250 cycles at 35A.

If the loss of capacity per cycle is fairly linear (it is after the first few dozen cycles and before the cell reaches the end of its life) then that means we can assume the 40T would drop to about 30% after 500 cycles.

This leaves us with…
The P42A at 40% after 500 cycles at 35A.
The 40T is at 30% after 500 cycles at 35A.

They are not too far apart! But the datasheet specs made these cells seem like they had very different overall life expectancy (if you didn’t look at the details).

Since we made so many assumptions though I don’t think we can definitively say that the P42A will have a longer cycle life than 40T. Especially since the 40T was discharged so hard when setting its rating. It might last a lot longer than the P42A when used at lower discharge rates.

The only thing that will let us accurately compare the cycle life of these two cells is testing, which is exactly what the manufacturers would tell us to do.

The cycle life numbers in the datasheets are just a guide. Unless your application matches the charge, discharge, and temperature conditions used to set the cycle life rating you can’t say that the datasheet number is what you will get.

Unfortunately this means that, like so many things associated with using li-ion cells, the details matter and we have to spend a bit more time checking into things if we want to get the most out of them.

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