NextGen Atomizer

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TrollDragon

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Still waiting on my NG atty from GearBest............

Shipped 5-20
Me too... Shipped 05/09 via Singapore Slow Mail...
My Flashi V3 & sigelei Mini were shipped on 05/15 via NL post are waiting in my mail box now. :banana:

Gearbest and Focalecig take too long for shipping with no ePacket option for Canadian's. My last ePacket shipment from fasttech took only 8 days to get here.
 

Jethead

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got the yeahsmo one from gearbest. Looks exactly like the SXK one, even comes with in the same looking box and extras bag. Meaning it will have the same insulator problem :-x

The center post on the Yeashmo is different from the SXK, look closely at the photos from the different sites. That's not to say it's the same crappy press fit that loosens with time causing problems.

But the fact that the Yeashmo looked to me to be of more precision machining and construction than the SXK is what made me decide on the Yeashmo. There was a difference in appearance at least in the photo's I looked at on a HUGE monitor.....
 

nullptr

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My NG clone is now working flawless for 2 days. I am really impressed. Before i have been vaping on authentic SQR and Marquis but the flavour on this one is a different class. The vapor is so dense and flavorful. I can't see me going back to cotton atm.
I am currently running the mesh-in-mesh build with 400 and 200 superfine mesh with V4A AWG 29 from zivipf. I've learned that mouth-to-lung doesn't work very well with this atomizer, especially on the largest airholes you will get dry hits. You are just not able to create enough negative pressure to keep the wick wet. I although identified the issue with my previous 325 builds: the mesh roll was too tight/compressed and it blocked the juice holes at the bottom.
I would love to buy the authentic though.
 

cobalt327

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I just got my first Temp Control Mod. I also just received some ribbon Nickel wire that I got from Stealthvape. I did a 5/6 wrap. I glowed the coils and they all glowed evenly from the start. The whole set up took 2 minutes. I filled in juice and the first hit was plain perfect....there was no break in time. I highly recommend anyone who is into genesis atties to get a TC mod and nickel ribbon wire.....they work specially perfect with the Nextgen.
What are the specs of the ribbon?

Still waiting on my NG atty from GearBest............

Shipped 5-20
FWIW I got mine today (5-30), w/o any expedited shipping it took 25 days from the 5-05 ship date. I actually placed the order on 4-27.
 
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cobalt327

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Knock on wood I haven't had any problems with my Nextgen for Gearbest but has any one figure out how to fix the spinning insulator problem?
I haven't looked into fixing the spinning insulator, but I may have come across the cause- too much dry burning when arranging/adjusting the coil. I know mine got real hot during the process. I'm going to be careful to let it cool between adjustments, hopefully this'll prevent mine from becoming loose.
 

cobalt327

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TL/DR: I like it, no probs using it w/o air control ring.

Finally got the coil/mesh to settle down to 1.1 ohms. Before this I was getting either a straight short, atty messages saying either "check atty" or "shorted", along w/coil wires burning in two down at the neg.screw. What DOES surprise me is I've seen builds online that didn't use wire that had been burned or otherwise given a chance to form any non conductive passive layer to insulate it from the mesh. On these builds the mesh had been burned before adding the coil so I suppose that created enough insulation between the mesh and coil to allow it to work. Oh, did I mention I'm new to using mesh for a wick? lol

Anyway, I like how it vapes. A lot, actually. More so than many other attys fresh out of the box. I'm certain that the build I have on it now (using 5 turns of 28G Kanthal and 18mm x 45mm stainless 400 mesh) can be improved on so looking forward to what it may bring in the future.

I did note the lack of airflow through the drip tip when fully assembled, even set on the largest holes. I decided to use it w/o the air control ring installed. I took the top O-ring and rolled it onto the body, then carefully rolled it back onto the lip that it rides on. Then carefully screwed the top down on the O-ring, stopping before it was squeezed out of position. If anyone does this, do NOT lube the O-ring- you want it to have some traction so it doesn't immediately squirt out of position when the top is replaced. To avoid disturbing the O-ring/top cap assembly, I bottom filled it. This will likely be temporary as I plan on drilling the air holes larger (and adding more holes in the ring to match up to the existing holes in the body). But as-is, it doesn't leak when placed on its side and no problems pulling a vacuum.
 
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cobalt327

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curious...

Why would you use it without the air flow control ring? It holds the O-Ring that seals the tank to the top cap....
Maybe you needed to read more than the TL/DR part... ;)

Anyway, I just about screwed the pooch big-time. Taking heed to use a 1/16" drill bit like EDO mentioned earlier (and a big thanks for that- had I used a 5/64" bit it would have been a disaster), I carefully drilled out the topmost air hole of the two largest holes. After the hole was enlarged, I inspected it closely I saw the drill bit had come within a hairsbreadth of breaking through the top of the 'spoke' that houses the air holes. The metal is actually raised up like a mole tunnel! (For those from the Big City, see the image of a mole tunnel below.) So be very careful if enlarging these holes.

rodent_tunnel_2_FreeTiiuPix.com.JPG
 
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cobalt327

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If it's the bottommost insulator, it looks like:

NG_INSULATOR.jpg


The insulator seems to be a press-fit into the center "build post", with the positive pole in the center. The slot looks like it's for a screwdriver, but I don't think there are threads on the insulator OD, although the positive pole might be threaded into the insulator ID- but that's a WAG on my part. I wouldn't advise trying to remove it unless the assembly was already trashed.

The center build post is removable from the bottom cap (photos taken from online videos so I have no control over the focus, etc.):

Cp_removed.jpg
 
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cobalt327

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On the clone? Personally I would proceed on the assumption that it is NOT naval brass. If this is a concern to you (I'm too old for it to matter), I'd suggest replacing it with a stainless fastener. I don't know what the thread size is but that's easy enough to determine if you have an atty in hand to use as your guide.
 
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