NextGen Atomizer

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ccwaters

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The insulator is threaded, at least the center post does screw into it. Mine started leaking a bit, what worked for me was to simply tighten the center post, by design, or accident when you tighten the center post it causes the insulator to expand slightly which tightens it into the 510.

So if you have some seeping, or loose insulator try tightening you center post, if the face of the 510 is pointing toward you tightening it is Counter-clockwise, loosening it is clockwise if the top of the post is facing you then it is the opposite.

I'll also comment on Gearbest, if you guys got the same atomizer from Gearbest, as fasttech I'm willing to bet it is NOT the Yeahsmo, as was advertised. They indeed changed the pictures, and it now shows the SXK version.

I believe they had issues with Yeahsmo, Gearbest had the Ataman 2, and Nexgen listed as preorders about the same time. My theory is Yeahsmo could not promise a reasonable delivery date, so Gearbest now lists the Ataman as (out of stock), and fulfilled the Nextgen orders with SXK. Yeahsmo would neither confirm, or deny this when I recently contacted them, they did tell me 1 week lead time for both Nextgen, and Ataman 2, so Apparently they still plan on making them, but seem to be having production issues.


My Gearbest Nextgen is in the states, however, moving slow, when it arrives, and I confirm it is not what I paid for, I'll be requesting a refund, only reason I purchased from Gearbest is that it was supposed to be the Yeahsmo, not SXK.

I've had nothing but terrible experiences with 5 orders from Gearbest, and this just looks like another instance of exactly that. Not getting what I paid for is simply not going to fly with me.
 
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cobalt327

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You're way more persistent than I would be- I'd have bailed on them after 2 problems at the most! lol While I've had no probs ordering from them (7 orders so far), I have read of some who have had problems, plus they seem to play fast and loose with whether they actually have on hand what they take orders for.

As for who makes the GB Nextgen, I really don't care- the reason I bought it was to see if I liked it enough to buy an original- I had no idea which clone was the better one or what the differences between them are. But I get how this would piss someone else off.
 
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cobalt327

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TrollDragon

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My Gearbest Nextgen is in the states, however, moving slow, when it arrives, and I confirm it is not what I paid for, I'll be requesting a refund, only reason I purchased from Gearbest is that it was supposed to be the Yeahsmo, not SXK.
Is it worth sending it as a tracked shipment back to China for a refund?
 

ccwaters

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If I didn't already have the SXK from FT it wouldn't be as bad, Only reason I ordered it was it was advertised as the Yeahsmo, Only reason I've ordered from GB at all is I couldn't source the Brand/item elsewhere. I would love to have the authentic, but cannot see that happening anytime soon, if an opportunity arises I probably will though.
 
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ccwaters

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I just looked at the photos at GB Yeahsmo Nextgen RDA Style Stainless Steel Rebuildable RDA Atomizer-14.50 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com and to my uneducated-in-Nextgen-trivia eyes, I cannot see any difference in what I received (GB presale, BTW) and what is shown. Am I missing something?

the only notable difference is the Centerpin/insulator set up, however that is also the only real notable issue the SXK version has.

Is it worth sending it as a tracked shipment back to China for a refund?

Not sure what I'll do about it, but I will figure out something.
 
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cobalt327

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After looking at the photos, I'm starting to think the bottom insulator might be made like a collet, the center pin being what expands the insulator, collet-style, to keep it in place. I've not had a chance yet to mess w/mine (it's vaping too good to bother w/taking it apart) but if this is the case, adjusting the center pin to tighten the insulator may very well be the easiest solution. Attention should be paid to how much the center pin extends after it's adjusted/tightened to assure good contact w/o it extending out too far.

ETA, going by what I've seen online, my GB presale NG clone is in fact an SXK. The spares bag w/red O-rings is why I say this, unless they both have the same bag and spares. And the 510 pin looks a little different as said already. The Yeahsmo 510 is the topmost photo below, the SXK is below it:

Yeahsmo_ng_510.jpg
NG_INSULATOR.jpg
 
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cobalt327

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@ccwaters If it will help, as long as your NG clone is still unused/NIB I'll buy it from you for what you paid plus 1/2 the cost to mail it to me in GA via USPS First Class. It'll cost us both a little more but might be better than a sharp stick in the eye... but it does work well so keeping it might be the best option.
 
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TrollDragon

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My GB "Yeahsmo" Nextgen arrived today...

Like cobalt posted above, the pin on mine is the exactly the same as the SXK version and not the like the fine slotted real Yeahsmo.

I just cleaned it, I am going to build it and most likely keep it. My buddy has the SXK version and it works fine. It is really annoying that GB shipped us an alternative product without any notice, but it would cost almost as much as a second one to send this back to China.

If I like this one then I'll probably get the Yeahsmo version later.
 

ccwaters

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Cobalt, I'll let you know, it should be here very soon, it was last scanned in Sparks Nevada on the 28th of May, not sure why it is going so slow now. I'm not unhappy with the SXK, just as Trolldragon said, a product substitution when it is Sold as, and purchased as the Yeahsmo Is not cool, at the very least everyone should contact GB CS, let them know about it.

They are probably counting on the fact most buyers will either not know, or not care. I certainly won't purchase again unless I have no choice. My previous order to the Nextgen was steel tanks for the Taifun GS, I have a few of them, and they do double duty fitting the Ivogo 17mm Kayfun mini, been looking for spare tanks for the GS for quite some time.
 

cobalt327

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I just got an email from a gentleman at Yeahsmo who said they had never sold to GearBest, so go figure....

Clones of a clone....
HaHa that should surprise me, but... :rolleyes:

All I know is GB is fixing to loose my support. So far I personally have had zero issues other than this bait and switch Nextgen. I would have bought it even if they had advertised it as an SXK, mainly because it was just to see if I liked it enough to look for an original. But the more I think about it, deceptive marketing practices shouldn't be condoned, period. This just might be my last order from them.

Lying vendor aside, as far as Yeahsmo vs. SXK goes if the only difference is the center pin's appearance, I can live w/that. But if there are differences that effect the reliability/durability then that's a different story (like no center pin/insulator ID threads, inferior insulator material, cannot disassemble the assembly w/o terminal damage). At this point I just do not know whether there are material differences but tonight I'm going to (try to) remove the center pin from the bottom insulator. I might see an insulator having a threaded ID and a smooth OD. It's doubtful, but I'd like to see a tapered center pin designed to expand the insulator to hold it tight in the center pin "housing". But what it will probably be is an untapered pin and an insulator that can expand only so much and no more, or worst case an assembly that's all just a press fit w/o any threads/adjustability.

ETA- ccwaters, you were posting as I was typing- I agree 100% re letting GB know this crap won't fly. I have been a sometimes-vocal supporter of them, but as I said- I will not continue to support them if this is their way of doing bidnezz.
 
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TrollDragon

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Well this is a real treat to build on, the mesh seems to short out against the center pin. I had torched the 200 before I rolled it and then torched it again after it was rolled. Without any Kanthal wrapped around it I could push the mesh up against the post lightly and get a 0.2Ω reading. Wrapped it with 28g for a 1.2Ω coil.

The resistance is jumping around so the build I have on it has some issues, all the screws were tightened and checked before I filled it. Using a 200 mesh piece (17mm x 50mm) rolled up on the supplied pin, the MaxVG juiceI am using is quite thick which could be the cause of the occasional dry hit I have been getting. Or most likely the voltage spiking as the resistance rises to 2.8Ω.

Tomorrow I'll tear it down and try to get a stable build on it. :unsure:

S1Qvuk7.jpg
 
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TrollDragon

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I rebuilt it with an L shaped wick instead and now there is less mesh down the tube. It still took quite a bit of tweaking to get an even coil glow, but it was not shorting out this time.

I thought the Origenny was a PiTA to build, it has nothing on the NG.

Now that it is working properly, I'll check it out and see if will be an EDC for me.
  • Would it replace my KFL? Yes it could very easily.
  • My Rose V2? Not a the moment, but I need more time with the NG.
  • The Origenny? Possibly because of the no leak feature, but not in the flavor department.
  • The Flash e-Vapor V3? Not a chance! :D

Time will tell and many ml's of juice to be put through it yet.
 
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EDO

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I stated this earlier in the thread but it is worth mentioning again. Get yourselves a TC mod and some nickel ribbon wire (0.1mm x 0.5mm) from Stealth Vapes. Because nickel wire is basically a non resistance wire, setting up the Nextgen with nickel wire is the easiest build....period. It will take less than a minute to set up. The coils will glow evenly with the first dry burn. The first hit is like heaven....perfect.....zero breaking in period. I get more vapor out it and the taste is much better than kanthal. Not only nickel performs better than kanthal and the set up is ten times easier than Kanthal, but the coils stay clean a lot longer with nickel wire set up. I vape 12-15ml a day and after ten days of using the Nextgen exclusively I finally checked the coils last night....they looked great.
 

cobalt327

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Very much looking forward to using the Nextgen w/Ni-TP. I have a couple Evolv DNA boards on hold while I consider my options for what enclosure to use, so a Ni build won't be done today but definitely WILL be done soon.

I have had some of the same issues that TrollDragon mentions above. I found that using stainless tweezers to tweak the coil as I pulsed the fire button got the coil glowing equally a lot quicker and easier than w/o using the tweezers. Before using the tweezers the legs would immediately glow red hot and I even burned the legs in two at the negative attachment a couple times. I noticed it seems like the passive layer has to form from the attachment points towards the middle of the coil, but in any event once I used the tweezers things went a lot better. And until I made the mesh wick exactly 18mm long (I started at 20mm) I was having arcing. The width before rolling the mesh on the 1/16" mandrel was about 50mm. Once rolled, the wick slid down into place easily and the top of the wick was dead even w/the end of the threads on the center post. So far this setup has given zero dry hits but the airier draw from drilling out one of the air holes does seem to have an effect on how well it wicks juice when the level is low (more on this in next post).

The flavor- while starting out GREAT (better than any previous atty)- did taper off rather quickly. After 1.5 tanks of juice, the taste is on par with my KFv4s. That said, the build on it now is NOT optimal. I'm using unknown micron mesh that came w/an Aqua v2 and a 1.4 ohm coil made w/30g Kanthal.
 
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cobalt327

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Something I'm seeing w/the airflow opened up (I drilled one of the two largest air holes to 1/16"- which is the absolute MAX it can be drilled, at least on my atty) is a tendency towards a dry hit, mainly when the juice level is low. I'm not getting an actual dry hit but I can definitely taste it's getting close. If the cause isn't gunking, it's likely due to less vacuum created by the airier draw. The airflow (actually more like the vacuum created when drawing through the air holes) and the size of the juice holes are related, so I might end up opening the juice holes slightly. I doubt it has gunked to the point the flavor is going off that much but I'll know more when I take it apart next time and see what the gunking situation looks like.
 
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nullptr

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You have to hold it vertically if you are running low on liquid otherwise the juice holes are not saturated. I am already used to refill it even when there are still 2ml left because i am not able to change my habit to hold it.
Since i was still getting some dry hits occasionally, i replaced my V4A with titanium wire to run TC on my VF3. I had to torch the mesh again to make it work properly. No dry hits for today at least.
 
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