I rolled up a new wick from 400 mesh and tried for an hour to get 30g wire to heat properly. Eventually the resistance jumped to 3 ohms, the sigelei dumped 8V into it and that coil popped. So I built a coil from 26g @ 0.5 ohm, so far so good. 
NextGen Atomizer
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I really hope that the experience people are having with the authentic is better than I am having with a $12 clone...
The flavor drop-off w/this atty is more pronounced than I've seen w/any other atty I've ever used. I don't know if it's the way I'm wicking it or what but if I could get this thing to stay tasting as good as it does at the beginning, I'd switch to them in a heartbeat. But as it stands, the loss of flavor is a real problem for me.
I'm a long way from tossing in the towel though- I need some good stainless mesh in a few different sizes to start with because I have no idea what the size or quality is, of the mesh I'm using. I want to try rolling the wicks differently (tighter/looser/thicker/thinner, etc.) to see if I can hit on the sweet spot for how I vape. As for the coils, the 0.5 ohm build on it now is okay but I also want to try more turns/higher resistance to see what that works like.
What I'm seeing is less resistance using Kanthal over the stainless mesh than if I used the same piece of wire made into a normal spaced coil- like a KF build. I checked a loop of Kanthal attached to the poles of the NG- not wrapped into a coil or touching any mesh- and it showed 1.4 ohms. The same piece of wire when coiled around a mesh wick gives me 0.5 ohms.
I'm a long way from tossing in the towel though- I need some good stainless mesh in a few different sizes to start with because I have no idea what the size or quality is, of the mesh I'm using. I want to try rolling the wicks differently (tighter/looser/thicker/thinner, etc.) to see if I can hit on the sweet spot for how I vape. As for the coils, the 0.5 ohm build on it now is okay but I also want to try more turns/higher resistance to see what that works like.
What I'm seeing is less resistance using Kanthal over the stainless mesh than if I used the same piece of wire made into a normal spaced coil- like a KF build. I checked a loop of Kanthal attached to the poles of the NG- not wrapped into a coil or touching any mesh- and it showed 1.4 ohms. The same piece of wire when coiled around a mesh wick gives me 0.5 ohms.
Nice looking setup there, TD. BTW, what is the width and length of mesh you used? Your wick looks like it has a smaller OD than what I'm using, so I'm wondering if a smaller ID might help the flavor loss I'm getting.I really hope that the experience people are having with the authentic is better than I am having with a $12 clone...
I have the same problem, it is that center post and the mesh. Try putting just your wick in and firing. It should give you a Check Atomizer error or 0 ohms. Now take a little screwdriver and push the wick towards the center post in different areas, at some point you should see a 0.5 ohm reading which will vary. I cannot get my mesh insulated enough that when I wrap the coil around it there are no shorts against the center post.
How about a piece of hollow Ekowool or a little tube of cotton or rayon inside the mesh to insulate it from the post?
sure would be nice if someone came up with ceramic wick specifically for this atomizer! yeah, that would be the ticket
Thanks it was a build out of frustration more than anything the 26g is a little too heavy IMHO but it stays where you put it and that is what I like.
I was building wicks at 17x50mm or 18x50mm on 200 and every time the wick will touch that ground screw since it overhangs the hole... They could have put that 2mm away from the hole, I'll have to get a smaller head screw for it.
So the last bit of mesh I rolled up was the 400, my sheets are 60x60 so I cut off a 18mm strip and rolled it. I figured it is finer than the 200 so it should fit. Nope, touching that damn screw again, pulled it out and cut 20-25 mm off of it. I tightened it on the rolling stick and torched it some more. Put it all back together with a 26g coil and I had very little tweaking to do. Assembled, filled and vaped at 20W with good flavor.
I have absolutely no issues building and wicking the Origenny with mesh, single's or dual's it doesn't matter. The most time spent on the Origenny is getting your coils mounted nicely over those 3mm holes. I use a 2.4mm coil wrapped on a jig then let spring back naturally. I use an L shapped 400 wick 21x25, torch and roll till it fits in the coil snugly. Minor tweaking and the Origenny is a flavor machine and proper juice pig.
I was pondering this AM about trying the same build process with the NG. Measure the size of the center hole, build a coil a few mm smaller, mount and center the coil attaching only the ground screw. Cut a piece of 17x35 400 mesh, torch and roll it till it fits snugly in the premounted coil. You could put a little bend in the top lead and attach it to the center post so it doesn't crush the wick. Basically Origenny building with an annoying center post step.
EDO's option of using TC with nickle ribbon would be excellent but my vape budget is all used up for quite a while and I have to make Kanthal work easily with the NG.
I would like to build this with 28g for faster ramp up time without have to fire it at 20W. 30g is a little flimsy but if the above wicking method works I might try it to see if I can get a higher resistance coil.
All good fun, I really like the design of this atty but that center post should have had a non conductive coating or ceramic sleeve etc IMHO.
Or I just don't know how to properly insulate a mesh wick...
Share your thoughts and builds here guys!
I am off to see if they fixed any design problems of the first one with the Silverplay V2 that is coming out.
I was going to try that but I only have 2.5mm and 3mm on the way... Just too big. If someone has a piece of 1mm then give it a try or send some my way.
I have some Ecowool here somewhere but don't recall what the smallest size is. I doubt I have any smaller than 2mm, though.
I'm using 30g Kanthal and still seeing low ohms. I did have one 30g build that was 1.3 ohms but after I cleaned it (because the flavor had dropped way off), I got a "shorted atty" error message. So I took it back apart and verified the center post wasn't somehow shorted to the deck. Then I retorched the original mesh on my gas stove and recoiled it using 30g Kanthal again and this time it is at 0.4 ohms w/only one less turn than the 1.3 ohm build, so I don't know WHAT is going on! lol
That all said, 0.4 ohms at 15.5 watts on my DNA Zero clone is giving me a VERY tasty vape- at least for now. I would be so happy if the flavor wouldn't drop off so radically after just a tank of juice! Maybe this will be the build that holds its flavor, hoping so, anyway...
ETA, there's quite a few posts on the NG at FT's discussions
I'm using 30g Kanthal and still seeing low ohms. I did have one 30g build that was 1.3 ohms but after I cleaned it (because the flavor had dropped way off), I got a "shorted atty" error message. So I took it back apart and verified the center post wasn't somehow shorted to the deck. Then I retorched the original mesh on my gas stove and recoiled it using 30g Kanthal again and this time it is at 0.4 ohms w/only one less turn than the 1.3 ohm build, so I don't know WHAT is going on! lol
That all said, 0.4 ohms at 15.5 watts on my DNA Zero clone is giving me a VERY tasty vape- at least for now. I would be so happy if the flavor wouldn't drop off so radically after just a tank of juice! Maybe this will be the build that holds its flavor, hoping so, anyway...
ETA, there's quite a few posts on the NG at FT's discussions
I would question the 0.4 ohms and a 30g wire build, a 2/1 wrap on 2mm will give you 0.4... I have had the top nut get hot on the NG without the coil getting warm. I think that the center post is small enough to actually heat up when the mesh grounds out.
All I know is what I see- which is the coil glowing uniformly and the mesh under it also glowing, as if it is an integral part of the electrical circuit and not insulated from it. That would also explain seeing lower ohms on the mesh build than a traditional coil.
In any event, I believe the entire mesh/coil assembly is conducting current even w/a passive outer layer on the mesh and coil from torching. Put another way, I see no way a NG mesh build can have the stainless mesh not effect the resistance. Otherwise I wouldn't be seeing what I 'm seeing. And I have to say, it is vaping very well as it is now- 0.4 ohms and 30g wire notwithstanding.
ETA- I might have made a mistake on the wire and gauge- I just remembered I used a piece of the wire the atty came with (I'm guessing it's NiCr), but I can't remember if I removed it and replaced it w/the 30g Kanthal or left it in place. I'll update to verify what it actually is next time I have it apart.
In any event, I believe the entire mesh/coil assembly is conducting current even w/a passive outer layer on the mesh and coil from torching. Put another way, I see no way a NG mesh build can have the stainless mesh not effect the resistance. Otherwise I wouldn't be seeing what I 'm seeing. And I have to say, it is vaping very well as it is now- 0.4 ohms and 30g wire notwithstanding.
ETA- I might have made a mistake on the wire and gauge- I just remembered I used a piece of the wire the atty came with (I'm guessing it's NiCr), but I can't remember if I removed it and replaced it w/the 30g Kanthal or left it in place. I'll update to verify what it actually is next time I have it apart.
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$13.77 NextGen Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - stainless steel + glass / 4ml at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Clear photo of the center post removed-
Clear photo of the center post removed-
So far, mines been working great with the first build I put on it. Maybe it's just a noobs good luck lol...
I used the supplied mesh so I don't know what weight it is, but I followed the 18x50 guide line and rolled it snug on the build rod. I did torch and quench in water 5 or 6 times though. I did 6 evenly spaced wraps of 30ga and got all the hot spots out but with a bunch of fiddling. So far I'm on my 3rd tank full and can say I've not had one dry hit.
It does seem though that there is considerable break in time. I was thinking the build should have been somewhere around 1.4 ohms but it started out more like 1 ohm. I did see a bunch of fluctuation for a while but it did finally level out at the 1.4 ohms I was looking for. I was running it on a regulated mod for the first 2 tanks but now I'm using it on a straight 18490 mechanical.
I do have to say, the flavor is better than I expected and I really like how you can unscrew the drip tip to isolate it from the heat the atty puts out. I did receive some new mesh in various weights so I'm looking forward to experimenting. I don't want to mess up this build though so I'll have to drag out the spare NextGen that I bought and give it a bath, the machine oil on these clones from GearBest was kind of... excessive...
I used the supplied mesh so I don't know what weight it is, but I followed the 18x50 guide line and rolled it snug on the build rod. I did torch and quench in water 5 or 6 times though. I did 6 evenly spaced wraps of 30ga and got all the hot spots out but with a bunch of fiddling. So far I'm on my 3rd tank full and can say I've not had one dry hit.
It does seem though that there is considerable break in time. I was thinking the build should have been somewhere around 1.4 ohms but it started out more like 1 ohm. I did see a bunch of fluctuation for a while but it did finally level out at the 1.4 ohms I was looking for. I was running it on a regulated mod for the first 2 tanks but now I'm using it on a straight 18490 mechanical.
I do have to say, the flavor is better than I expected and I really like how you can unscrew the drip tip to isolate it from the heat the atty puts out. I did receive some new mesh in various weights so I'm looking forward to experimenting. I don't want to mess up this build though so I'll have to drag out the spare NextGen that I bought and give it a bath, the machine oil on these clones from GearBest was kind of... excessive...
So maybe all my theorizing got me nowhere! Wouldn't be the first time...
So k2zs, what you're getting w/the 30g Kanthal is the same thing I got the first time I used 30g on mine. So this is leading me to the distinct possibility the 0.4 ohm build on mine now is the supplied NiCr resistance wire (measures about 28.5g) and not the 30g Kanthal after all. TD, I should have listened to you the first time!
It's all good cobalt, this is a great atty for learning and experimentation.
I was going through some of the FT discussions, it seems that everyone gets the best results with 26g wire. The 30 is hot leg city, 28 cooks juice too fast and the 26 on 20W or less is a sweet spot for some.
I put two tanks through this already with the 26g 0.5 coil and it is great at 20W.
I can get a dry hit if I chain vape too much or don't pull enough air through on each vape. I have done primer pulls on it and had juice weep out of the air hole... Chamber must have been half full of juice, so just vape and it gets used up quickly.
You can tell if it is going to dry hit as the sizzle will continue for a secon after you vape.
There is a full spares kit and a Peek insulator available for the Authentic from Atmorama in Greece, but no one is sure yet if the Peek insulator works on the SXK version.
Peek insulator for NextGen
FT now has glass spares for when they break, singles and a 5 pack.
$5.19 Replacement Bottom Tank Segment for NextGen Styled RTA Atomizers (5-Pack) - glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I was going through some of the FT discussions, it seems that everyone gets the best results with 26g wire. The 30 is hot leg city, 28 cooks juice too fast and the 26 on 20W or less is a sweet spot for some.
I put two tanks through this already with the 26g 0.5 coil and it is great at 20W.
I can get a dry hit if I chain vape too much or don't pull enough air through on each vape. I have done primer pulls on it and had juice weep out of the air hole... Chamber must have been half full of juice, so just vape and it gets used up quickly.
You can tell if it is going to dry hit as the sizzle will continue for a secon after you vape.
There is a full spares kit and a Peek insulator available for the Authentic from Atmorama in Greece, but no one is sure yet if the Peek insulator works on the SXK version.
Peek insulator for NextGen
FT now has glass spares for when they break, singles and a 5 pack.
$5.19 Replacement Bottom Tank Segment for NextGen Styled RTA Atomizers (5-Pack) - glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
According to an individual from Fasttech forums he purchased the OEM peek insulator replacement, and it would not work on the SXK clone, I guess the issue being with the OG the peek insulator is threaded into the 510, it may be possible to tap the 510 to get it to work, but as it stands without mods reportedly it cannot be used.
My GB Nextgen is still on the road, USPS is really screwing this one up. Quite the delivery time on this one May 19th to ???
Not sure why it is in Indiana, hopefully it will start heading my way soon.
That delivery info is crazy!
Anyone know of a better deal on 400 mesh than 400 mesh 4.4¢ per square inch? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WOVEN-WIRE-MESH-STAINLESS-STEEL-400-MESH-12-X12-FILTRATION-SS-T316-FREE-SHIP/271261287145?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=d411ac9e1b364368911a6586e3a84956&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=351022287343&rt=nc
This vendor has some of the strangest bunch of BIN auctions listed- 400 mesh can cost anywhere from about 12¢ to 3¢ per sq. in. for 'buy 2, get 1 free' (if I understand the auction description, that is- but I don't need 3, 12" x 12" sheets). The odd thing about the 3¢ per sq. in. auction is he asks you to "Choose Size: 6"x6" or 12"x12" ". The cost is the same for either size, why would anyone choose 6" x 6"?
ETA- Going by what I measured (just under 0.0015") and what I'm seeing listed on eBay, it seems the Nextgen mesh I got is 325 mesh (stated to be 0.0014").
Anyone know of a better deal on 400 mesh than 400 mesh 4.4¢ per square inch? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WOVEN-WIRE-MESH-STAINLESS-STEEL-400-MESH-12-X12-FILTRATION-SS-T316-FREE-SHIP/271261287145?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=d411ac9e1b364368911a6586e3a84956&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=351022287343&rt=nc
This vendor has some of the strangest bunch of BIN auctions listed- 400 mesh can cost anywhere from about 12¢ to 3¢ per sq. in. for 'buy 2, get 1 free' (if I understand the auction description, that is- but I don't need 3, 12" x 12" sheets). The odd thing about the 3¢ per sq. in. auction is he asks you to "Choose Size: 6"x6" or 12"x12" ". The cost is the same for either size, why would anyone choose 6" x 6"?
ETA- Going by what I measured (just under 0.0015") and what I'm seeing listed on eBay, it seems the Nextgen mesh I got is 325 mesh (stated to be 0.0014").
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Smaller sheets 6x6 for $2.41 and I think that equals 6¢ a square inch, so your deal is probably the cheapest.
Stainless Mesh small sheet - Wicks / Wire / Mesh - Mods & RBAs - MyFreedomSmokes
Stainless Mesh small sheet - Wicks / Wire / Mesh - Mods & RBAs - MyFreedomSmokes
Crazy shipping indeed...
My Sweet-Vapes order has suffered the same fate, someone put it on the wrong truck...
2015/06/02 02:24 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item processed
2015/06/01 10:21 UNIONVILLE, ON Item re-routed due to processing error; Possible delay
2015/05/29 23:34 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item processed
2015/05/28 11:02 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item has arrived in Canada and was sent for further processing.
2015/05/28 03:01 USORDA,USA International item has left originating country and is en route to Canada
2015/05/26 20:22 53081,USA International item mailed in originating country
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