I'm willing to give it some time to prove itself
ETA: I don't think it's doin it intentionally
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Eleaf iStick : part 2
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ETA: I don't think it's doin it intentionally
Thanks for the heads up Bikenstein...that's a huge bummer. I wonder if it's because they aren't approved..hmm. Any idea what vendors will honor the warranty?
My list of choice vendors gets shorter by the week.
My list of choice vendors gets shorter by the week.
I bought a 30w from evape.us earlier this year. They replaced it, no questions, in 3 days. It was 88 days old.
Little update on the sick 30w. The last time I took it apart it still was accumulating a little moisture on the screen. I blew it out with compressed gas, reassembled it and put it on the charger. It's been runnin perfect for about 7 hours of heavy vaping with a .45ohm coil at 22w in a SubTank Mini. I think blowin it out did some good. Before it was screwin up every third hit.
Is it possible some material was shorting some tiny connection on the board? Or moisture trapped in the board doing the same thing?
Notice anything blowing out? I'm full of questions...
Ask away.
I'm thinking condensation may be the problem. It's still working fine, not a single incident after almost 9 hours of chain vaping at 22w. It was slightly damp every time I took it apart from reading my posts. Condensation forming as it cooled could have shorted the firing circuit. Just a theory but something has to be triggering it. Since I've got it running, it has never gone more than 2 hours before acting up. Just before I blew it out with compressed air it had started autofiring about every third hit. That had been goin on for 30 minutes but immediately stopped and hasn't done it since. .
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Just an update.
All of my isticks (2 20W, 2 30W and a 50W) are all operating perfectly with no strangeness of loss in performance or battery life. And I would be in line for one of those TC40 models if I didn't have to move in 2 months. I also just PIF'd one of my 20W to a co-worker who needed a new mod to replace her ego battery.
All of my isticks (2 20W, 2 30W and a 50W) are all operating perfectly with no strangeness of loss in performance or battery life. And I would be in line for one of those TC40 models if I didn't have to move in 2 months. I also just PIF'd one of my 20W to a co-worker who needed a new mod to replace her ego battery.
I'm not sure if you could get enough ni200 26g wire into a subtank RDA. 28g at 8 wraps (I think) gets me 0.15 ohms on my Lemo. 30g would probably be better.
I'm loving the 28 guage. I find it easy enough to work with... I run 7 spaced wraps on a roughly 2.5 mm mandrell and get .09 ohms. Using the nail method, this is quick and easy.
I've done the same build in a Lemo 2 @ .087 and it worked nice on an SX Mini. I haven't nickeled the ST Mini yet but I would also recommend 28g or thinner.
I just did 8 wraps on my subtank mini. First nickel build on it and I'm impressed so far. First build that hasn't hosed my tongue with juice, including the stock OCCs that came with it.
It just started actin up again after a couple hours of vapin at 25w. I swapped attys and it still did it. It did it at 15w and 25w and both times it was autofiring, it burned the juice. Before, I was taking long 5 or 6 second draws without burning so I think it goes further than just a sticking button. It seems to be locking in fire mode and firing hot at the same time... like it jumped to 30w plus or somethin. DarthEmma didn't mention anything about it autofirin, just dyin on her as far as I know. Time to gut it like a catfish (too many bones in carp)
Sorry I didin't reply to this sooner. I didn't notice this thread. I was looking for Bikenstein's to post in the other thread (50W owners).
Anyway, here is my reply to what you found with my istick 30W...
That's exactly what it was doing to me. I would fire it and it wouldn't stop. I had trouble getting it to shut off because it just kept firing constantly. Once I got it shut off, I tried it again. It's like the button was stuck down in the depressed mode.
The problem I had with the 30W (that Bikenstein has) was different than my 50W. The 50W would just fire all by itself while it was sitting on the table. It would just come on all of a sudden.
Sorry I wasn't clear on that.
Thanks DE. I wondered where you went.
When it got here it wouldn't work and I understood you to say it "died". It did eventually start auto firing just sitting there like your 50w was doing. But after this morning, I'm confident that I've isolated the problem. Later today, I'm gonna do some tests and compare a good one to it. See you later.Watching this with great interest...I know you must be in a part of the country that has humidity thisThanks DE. I wondered where you went.
time of year.
After blowin it out with compressed gas the 30 ran 10 hours without a malfunction. This morning it started sticky firin immediately. The screen was blurry. I blew it out and it has performed well for 3 hours after a full charge. The screen was still blurry so I took it apart. I also disassembled my apparently newer silver 30 for comparison.
You can see moisture on the screen of the left one.
Moisture on the clear lense of the sick one. This is the first time the one on the right has been disassembled...still clean from April
The silicon is used to hold the heat sink...not for securing the board and battery. But too much was applied to the one on the left filling the whole space below the finned heat sink. I suspect that this is causing condensation that is affecting the circuits.
You can see I already picked at it but after the photo, I dug out more of the silicon so the heat could disperse from the bottom also. I'm gonna keep vapin it to see if condensation continues to form. I've been really pushing both these 30s with sub ohm builds and 20+ watts. The blue one is the only one forming the condensation and then sticky firing also autofiring at times but it responds instantly to drying it out and has ran for hours afterward. I discovered a couple of "upgrades" that fixed the button rattles.
The fire button pin on the right is larger for a tighter fit. The 2 up/down buttons were bridged to make one unit. The pin size is the same still but making them one piece stopped the rattling.
They added a rubber cushion also to help prevent any rattling of the fire button
No other apparent changes other than a different stamp inside the bottom cap. This could be a way to tell if you have a newer model. Older one is on the left. The cap comes off with the 2 screws for an easy check without disturbing anything.
They could have also upgraded the firmware to resolve issues but right now I'm thinkin sloppy assembly and condensation. They might have re-trained the guy who squirted all that silicon in there or put him sweepin the floor or something... We'll see if this will end up bein a fix or flop.
You can see moisture on the screen of the left one.
Moisture on the clear lense of the sick one. This is the first time the one on the right has been disassembled...still clean from April
The silicon is used to hold the heat sink...not for securing the board and battery. But too much was applied to the one on the left filling the whole space below the finned heat sink. I suspect that this is causing condensation that is affecting the circuits.
You can see I already picked at it but after the photo, I dug out more of the silicon so the heat could disperse from the bottom also. I'm gonna keep vapin it to see if condensation continues to form. I've been really pushing both these 30s with sub ohm builds and 20+ watts. The blue one is the only one forming the condensation and then sticky firing also autofiring at times but it responds instantly to drying it out and has ran for hours afterward. I discovered a couple of "upgrades" that fixed the button rattles.
The fire button pin on the right is larger for a tighter fit. The 2 up/down buttons were bridged to make one unit. The pin size is the same still but making them one piece stopped the rattling.
They added a rubber cushion also to help prevent any rattling of the fire button
No other apparent changes other than a different stamp inside the bottom cap. This could be a way to tell if you have a newer model. Older one is on the left. The cap comes off with the 2 screws for an easy check without disturbing anything.
They could have also upgraded the firmware to resolve issues but right now I'm thinkin sloppy assembly and condensation. They might have re-trained the guy who squirted all that silicon in there or put him sweepin the floor or something...
We'll see if this will end up bein a fix or flop.Too bad there's not room for a desiccant pack in there...
So it's attracting moisture from the surrounding air or the vapor from using it?
They do submerge wet cel phones in rice to get all moisture out...
Great post and pics!
So it's attracting moisture from the surrounding air or the vapor from using it?
They do submerge wet cel phones in rice to get all moisture out...
Great post and pics!
I was seriously thinkin about stuffin some rice in it.Too bad there's not room for a desiccant pack in there...
So it's attracting moisture from the surrounding air or the vapor from using it?
They do submerge wet cel phones in rice to get all moisture out...
Great post and pics!
It could be something in the way the heat sink is attached but I believe it's in the area. I hope cleanin the silicon out will solve it. I'd hate to have to carry a can of Dust Destroyer around with me................. Still wonderin where the scorpion came from........
If you clean off all of the silicone, could you put a piece of thermal tape down to hold the heatsink?
1 Piece 3M 8810 80x80mm LED Thermal Adhesive Blue Cooling Tape Pad for CPU GPU | eBay
Or even use some thermal epoxy?
Arctic Silver Aata 5g Alumina Epoxy 5g Premium Ceramic Thermal Adhesive 2 Set | eBay
1 Piece 3M 8810 80x80mm LED Thermal Adhesive Blue Cooling Tape Pad for CPU GPU | eBay
Or even use some thermal epoxy?
Arctic Silver Aata 5g Alumina Epoxy 5g Premium Ceramic Thermal Adhesive 2 Set | eBay
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