Eleaf iStick : part 2

[Bikenstein]

The

If you clean off all of the silicone, could you put a piece of thermal tape down to hold the heatsink?
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Or even use some thermal epoxy?
Arctic Silver Aata 5g Alumina Epoxy 5g Premium Ceramic Thermal Adhesive 2 Set | eBay

I don't doubt that it's a thermal adhesive but it should only be applied in a thin layer to my knowledge (which ain't much) If it doesn't work out I'll probably remove the heatsink and clean it up good and try to do a better job. The stamp in the bottom cap probably won't tell you the age of the mod cause I just took one off a new 30w and it's blank.

 

[Bikenstein]

innokin modular mod, will sell like hotcakes Mix and match

Then again, who knows? Replaceable lipo battery....

 

[vincom]

bought 2 istick 30w in feb about 2 weeks apart, both used daily going through at about 10-15mls of juice each at ~20watts.
one on left has the rattle button, the right one has no rattle, the right one has no number markings on the inside of the bottom plate. both still work as the day i got them.

 

[Seleya]

Innokin modular mod, will sell like hotcakes Mix and match

Then again, who knows? Replaceable lipo battery....

I actually kind of like it.

 

[IMRs]

I actually kind of like it.

Yeah, it catches the eye.

 

[DarthEmma]

Well, I'm glad someone is getting my money's worth out of my iStick 30W.

This has been a very interesting read. Thanks, Bikenstein!

 

[Bikenstein]

Well, I'm glad someone is getting my money's worth out of my iStick 30W.

This has been a very interesting read. Thanks, Bikenstein!

You're welcome. I was about to send patient home but it apparently needs more work. Do you have Medicare?

 

[Cheechako]

Obamacare for mods...

 

[Nick N]

B,

The likely dead previously auto firing Fushia 50w should be there tomorrow, hindsight I should have included the black silicone sleeve just in case you had to take it out in public.

All,

For the record and for those that are not familiar the iStick developed the auto firing problem and a lot of the time the fire button was not responsive when pressed. When I stopped using it the device would turn itself on even though I did the 5 clicks to turn it off. I feel that a faulty button may be the culprit, a bad soldering job, or both.

B has been nice enough to take a look at it and see if there is anything he can do. He has full authorization to do whatever he needs to do to bring it back. I am truly hoping he (or others that are opening these boxes to examine them) will discover something that any iStick owner can do to remedy their problem iStick 50w.

 

[Cheechako]

B,

The likely dead previously auto firing Fushia 50w should be there tomorrow, hindsight I should have included the black silicone sleeve just in case you had to take it out in public.

All,

For the record and for those that are not familiar the iStick developed the auto firing problem and a lot of the time the fire button was not responsive when pressed. When I stopped using it the device would turn itself on even though I did the 5 clicks to turn it off. I feel that a faulty button may be the culprit, a bad soldering job, or both.

B has been nice enough to take a look at it and see if there is anything he can do. He has full authorization to do whatever he needs to do to bring it back. I am truly hoping he (or others that are opening these boxes to examine them) will discover something that any iStick owner can do to remedy their problem iStick 50w.

You've let the Bikenstein loose on your 50W!
And carte blanc to have his way with it...it may be diesel powered by the time you get it back.

 

[aldenf]

Oh, for crying out loud. All these people are sending Bikenstein their iSticks? Can you imagine? We are going to be surrounded by a gaggle iFrankenSticks. I'll take a TC40W with a 30W topcap and 50W batteries. Thanks, Bike!

 

[Nick N]

Drill holes (vents) in it, transplant it into a beast box mod or Cherry Bomber if you want.

 

[vincom]

if autofiring w/atty on then most likely a hw problem at either the 510 or switch.
@Bikenstein since ur good at soldering u can try to desolder the switch and test if it autofires.
my feeling is a bad switch either internally in the switch or a bad solder at the switch. but if doing this ur most likely sacrificing the istick.

edit: looks like u got it replaced.

 

[Nick N]

Mine would autofire with nothing on it.

 

[vincom]

Mine would autofire with nothing on it.

still could be hw as i cant see how sw/fw could make a closed circuit especially w/a switch and the 510 incorporated into board but im no electrical engineer just a backyard hobbyist.
if there was a relay involved then maybe but the 510 would have to short out also.

afaik there are no relays on the board for activating the switch, so it must be the switch and/or 510, but like i said im just a backyard hobbyist, a jack of all trades but a master at nothing.

 

[Nick N]

I totally agree that it is a bad fire button, bad soldering job, or a combination of both.

 

[vincom]

I totally agree that it is a bad fire button, bad soldering job, or a combination of both.

yes, but w/no atty and it autofires is weird, both the 510 and switch would have to be shorted at the same time, maybe liquid related?

 

[Nick N]

I did not see any when I opened it up but that doesn't mean it wasn't. I'm not even a hobbiest when it comes to electronics repair [emoji4].

Does anyone have an opinion on fitting this into a mechanical box mod somehow? If the fire button is bad where would you get a replacement? Maybe a new fire button altogether is the answer but the housing is curved.

 

[Bikenstein]

Oh, for crying out loud. All these people are sending Bikenstein their iSticks? Can you imagine? We are going to be surrounded by a gaggle iFrankenSticks. I'll take a TC40W with a 30W topcap and 50W batteries. Thanks, Bike!

These mods produce a lot of heat! Thinkin about putting a zener diode off a 1968 650 Triumph Bonneville on it.

I could mount it on the bottom and use it as a base stand.

The little momentary switches can probably handle no more than 2 or 3 amps, which is not enough to handle the batteries power, so a mosfet or something is probably bein used as a switch. The fire switch sends a voltage at low amps to the gate of the transistor to turn it on and then you get power going to the atty through it not the fire button switch. The heat of the mod that you feel in your hand is not the battery or heat transferred to the mod from the atty coil. It's the heat generated and being dissipated through the heatsink. It gets too hot to keep your finger on it while the battery is still barely warm. If moisture develops and shorts a circuit, it could send a signal to turn the mosfet on. I don't know yet, I'm just a pipe welder
ETA: All I know is I've gone through a lot of juice testin this thing. Glad I have 0mg

 

[Cheechako]

These mods produce a lot of heat! Thinkin about putting a zener diode off a 1968 650 Triumph Bonneville on it.

I could mount it on the bottom and use it as a base stand.

The little momentary switches can probably handle no more than 2 or 3 amps, which is not enough to handle the batteries power, so a mosfet or something is probably bein used as a switch. The fire switch sends a voltage at low amps to the gate of the transistor to turn it on and then you get power going to the atty through it not the fire button switch. The heat of the mod that you feel in your hand is not the battery or heat transferred to the mod from the atty coil. It's the heat generated and being dissipated through the heatsink. It gets too hot to keep your finger on it while the battery is still barely warm. If moisture develops and shorts a circuit, it could send a signal to turn the mosfet on. I don't know yet, I'm just a pipe welder
ETA: All I know is I've gone through a lot of juice testin this thing. Glad I have 0mg

always come back to moisture...maybe potty training is in order!