Eleaf iStick : part 2
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makes sense, in essence it uses a relay so full power doesnt go through the power button.These mods produce a lot of heat! Thinkin about putting a zener diode off a 1968 650 Triumph Bonneville on it.
I could mount it on the bottom and use it as a base stand.
The little momentary switches can probably handle no more than 2 or 3 amps, which is not enough to handle the batteries power, so a mosfet or something is probably bein used as a switch. The fire switch sends a voltage at low amps to the gate of the transistor to turn it on and then you get power going to the atty through it not the fire button switch. The heat of the mod that you feel in your hand is not the battery or heat transferred to the mod from the atty coil. It's the heat generated and being dissipated through the heatsink. It gets too hot to keep your finger on it while the battery is still barely warm. If moisture develops and shorts a circuit, it could send a signal to turn the mosfet on.I don't know yet, I'm just a pipe welder
ETA: All I know is I've gone through a lot of juice testin this thing. Glad I have 0mg
so w/autofire and atty screwed on issue could be faulty power button and/or "relay" and/or circuit between power button and relay.
but w/out atty screwed on and autofire issue, whoever posted that, they have above issue plus a shorted 510, odd, somethings not right as too many things to go wrong at once for that to happen
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Thinking back to the old mosfet, micro / touch switch build it yourself mods there was an extra resistor required to allow the mosfet to fire / not fire continuous. If the ohms were too high or low there were problems.
I don't remember the exact circuit, but it was a hot topic in the modding forum in late 2010, early 2011. (Maybe vaping effects memory,,,j/k...it's age)
I don't remember the exact circuit, but it was a hot topic in the modding forum in late 2010, early 2011. (Maybe vaping effects memory,,,j/k...it's age)
Neither the 510 nor the fire button switch need be shorted or completed as in the case here. It ran for 4+ days before being disassembled and finally stopped. Final diagnosis (not mine) was a bad chip.
I don't think it's just an on or off transistor deal ( I just basically threw mosfet out there), more of a variable transistor circuit. I'm not gonna troubleshoot the boards or components other than visual. I'm not qualified and don't have any equipment to do it. I would need a wiring diagram too, but just lookin for the possibilities of hardware trouble. Simple fixes if there are any.
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The blow "out" was certainly a clue to it's issues.
How the moisture affects the board, I dunno, but sure as heck seems to!
The blow "out" was certainly a clue to it's issues.
How the moisture affects the board, I dunno, but sure as heck seems to!
if it needs a complicated fix imo its just easier to get another mod, too many too choose from now, if when one of my 2 istick 30w dies i'll be searching but really, theres too many too choose from now especially w/all the new tc ones coming out w/no end insight.
Yeah...it changed it in my quote but not Bikes and IMRs! LolYeah, quick fingers cause consternation...
Just to say you done it huh? You go Bikenstein!! My hero!!Doin it for posterity not prosperity...
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