Well, as long as this wick is working I'm not going to re-wick until I have to...it's too stressful for my delicate femininity.
RDA All My RDAs - My Own Soap Opera
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Well, as long as this wick is working I'm not going to re-wick until I have to...it's too stressful for my delicate femininity.
Congrats! A 0.5 ohm build at 10 watts is only around 2.2 volts so go ahead and crank that sucka up!
Has nothing to do with femi-nazis, more to do with mods. Besides, total NSFW content, and I'm at work.
Rolled or not, cotton will expand when juiced. Any less/thinner wick would make things worse. A close-up seems to suggest not enough wick through the coil.
@lanye, I know you said you've re-wicked numerous times, but if you're not using enough cotton (or too much nonetheless as @Train2 mentioned) then each re-wick would yield less-than-average results. This other close-up below suggests not enough wick as well...to me it seems there's too much empty space (not enough thickness) just outside the coils. Also, inside the coil, if there's not enough cotton touching the entire coil on the inside then more problems would occur. In addition, the top coil appears darker than the bottom coil (bottom coil also seems to be firing unevenly) which might indicate another issue...[as I was typing this response, I see you've noticed that as well].
For comparison's sake, below is a build I currently have on my Velocity (single coil 26g twisted Titanium). Notice the difference. No gaps (nor excess space where cotton should be) on either side of the coil...performance is ideal with nice flavor, dense vapor, and no spitting.
One final note, you can also try moving both coils down slightly closer towards the airflow holes...you might be surprised with the result. This could be causing your migraines.
Just my observations. If all else fails, then I'm stumped! Hope you resolve it.
Nice build, is that 2.5 mm?? Inquiring minds want to know
Nice build, is that 2.5 mm?? Inquiring minds want to know
That sounds about right.
Sorry should have been more specific. I was curious about the Ti build. Are you getting a better vape at this point??
I had endless problems with ripping bits off the cotton balls, the Japanese cotton pads are much easier methinks.
Good show!
Good show!
Awesomeness. Was a piece o' cake! Glad u resolved it @lanye. Enjoy the vape.
With the Japanese cotton pads I leave the compressed outer layers on, cut with the grain so the strip I cut is about 1.5x the size of the inner diameter of the coil. I then roll it between my palms gently into a little tube so it fluffs up a bit and gets all the fibers running parallel together. Once it is uniform I roll one end tightly and push it through until I can grab it. At the right amount of wick there should be enough friction that the wick compresses then fluffs back out once it exits the coil.
I usually cut the tails so they overhang the RDA by 2-3 mm (depends on the atty) then gently tuck them into the well trying not to compress the cotton too much.
If you can build on the mxv4 there aren't many atties that should give you trouble. The bottom airflow holes seem to be designed to wick juice so don't let your cotton touch the deck rim there, especially at the small hole.
The coil will spit less if you move the coil to 2 mm or so clearance over the air inlet. Combined with the side airflow valves, spitting = leaking out the side from condensation.
I found I had an easier time with blind dripping through the chuff with a z - wick setup (where you have one long wick that runs through one coil, over the positive post then through the other coil and down to the deck. It seemed to reduce leaking as well but I could have been imagining things.
The included screws have pretty abysmal tips; if you have an old metal nail file that you are planning on replacing dressing the screw tips will help a lot in not amputating coil leads. It will be shot once you are done with it but I figure there is a better chance that you have a nail file vs a mill file. 600 or so grit wet/dry sandpaper double sided taped to glass works, too.
I haven't used my mxv4 since I got at ties that have less issues. It is easy to build on but as you have noticed, frustration prone.
I usually cut the tails so they overhang the RDA by 2-3 mm (depends on the atty) then gently tuck them into the well trying not to compress the cotton too much.
If you can build on the mxv4 there aren't many atties that should give you trouble. The bottom airflow holes seem to be designed to wick juice so don't let your cotton touch the deck rim there, especially at the small hole.
The coil will spit less if you move the coil to 2 mm or so clearance over the air inlet. Combined with the side airflow valves, spitting = leaking out the side from condensation.
I found I had an easier time with blind dripping through the chuff with a z - wick setup (where you have one long wick that runs through one coil, over the positive post then through the other coil and down to the deck. It seemed to reduce leaking as well but I could have been imagining things.
The included screws have pretty abysmal tips; if you have an old metal nail file that you are planning on replacing dressing the screw tips will help a lot in not amputating coil leads. It will be shot once you are done with it but I figure there is a better chance that you have a nail file vs a mill file. 600 or so grit wet/dry sandpaper double sided taped to glass works, too.
I haven't used my mxv4 since I got at ties that have less issues. It is easy to build on but as you have noticed, frustration prone.
I agree with too little wick I also have the mutation x v4 but I also use Graham's rayon cellucotton for my wicks I make mine so tight it can barely move it literally almost "squeaks" when going through the wick dry of course rayon does not expand when wet but that wick does look much too loose in there Here is a dry pic of my mutation I like the z wick on it to reduce the leaking and it helps with the spitback also hope this image helps you you can YouTube this wick and it will show you step by step how to do itRolled or not, cotton will expand when juiced. Any less/thinner wick would make things worse. A close-up seems to suggest not enough wick through the coil.
@lanye, I know you said you've re-wicked numerous times, but if you're not using enough cotton (or too much nonetheless as @Train2 mentioned) then each re-wick would yield less-than-average results. This other close-up below suggests not enough wick as well...to me it seems there's too much empty space (not enough thickness) just outside the coils. Also, inside the coil, if there's not enough cotton touching the entire coil on the inside then more problems would occur. In addition, the top coil appears darker than the bottom coil (bottom coil also seems to be firing unevenly) which might indicate another issue...[as I was typing this response, I see you've noticed that as well].
For comparison's sake, below is a build I currently have on my Velocity (single coil 26g twisted Titanium). Notice the difference. No gaps (nor excess space where cotton should be) on either side of the coil...performance is ideal with nice flavor, dense vapor, and no spitting.
One final note, you can also try moving both coils down slightly closer towards the airflow holes...you might be surprised with the result. This could be causing your migraines.
Just my observations. If all else fails, then I'm stumped! Hope you resolve it.
I like the rayon because it will stay exactly the same after wetting it so if you like the density you make your wick at it will be the same after juiced up
I agree with this too do a dry fire and make sure there heating properly if you keep getting massive spitting then right after a massive dry hit you may have a loose screw causing a hot leg on the coil this would be noticed instantly in a dry fire as the coil itself would not get red but the leg of the coil going into the post will glow instantly
I got the exact same wick/building method on my mxv4 [emoji16][emoji106]
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