Attack of the (Kayfun V5) Clones!

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0blong

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Tell us where you bought it from, so others can avoid it!

I can out the ebay seller no problem if its not against the rules. I'm waiting to hear back from them on the actual maker to avoid.

They did a couple of things right:
2. black tip : is it the right material? dunno, the metal gets hot the material doesn't.
3. didn't paint the base like the FT ones
4. spare parts

The resistance moves but not to where it doesn't fire. Its like +/- .2 or .3 at most. Metal scares me more if they just chrome plated the top of the chimney and painted the bottom bit. Any way to tell?
 
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dwcraig1

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I can out the ebay seller no problem if its not against the rules. I'm waiting to hear back from them on the actual maker to avoid.

They did a couple of things right:
2. black tip : is it the right material? dunno, the metal gets hot the material doesn't.
3. didn't paint the base like the FT ones
4. spare parts

The resistance moves but not to where it doesn't fire. Its like +/- .2 or .3 at most. Metal scares me more if they just chrome plated the top of the chimney and painted the bottom bit. Any way to tell?
Keep in mind that the authentic K5 has a shorter than most 510, so if the clone is 1:1 it's 510 probably is a short one also. Have you tried using it with a different mod? Maybe you already answered this and I missed it....LOL
 

LarryPer

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No way to "make it longer"..?

I don't know what construction it uses, but on my Bachelors I can pull out the copper 510 pin, stick some sort of shim (I use a small piece of flattened copper wire) underneath it and put it back to make it work with every mod.


go to fasteck look up heat sink
 

dwcraig1

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13754084_1254244964599725_7775084608910469927_n.jpg

On my SXK I'm using 12 x 1 mm for #8, #10 and #22, they fit perfectly.
For #11 I'm using 11 x 1 mm, fits perfectly.
Now I have a really good assortment of o-rings but for some reason I used my last 11 x 1 mm yesterday on one.
So just a bit ago I go through the parts bag that came with the SXK K5 and what did I find.... three 12 x 1 mm ones, no 10's. no 11's.
Got to order some more I guess when I see what other sizes I may need.
Ordered some 11 x 1 mm and 17 x 1 mm from Oringsandmore
 
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0blong

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OhTheAgony

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KTMRider

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This looks just like mine, maybe I've found it? $13.54 Kayfun V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 5ml / 304 stainless steel / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Still can't tell if I have uncoated brass chimney or if its from paint, etc. I suppose I could buy $3.71 Replacement Chimney for Kayfun V5 RTA Atomizers - 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

It looks to not have the problem if its really SS all the way through like the picture.
Definitely not a Tobeco. Now I'm wondering if others that are having issues don't have actual Tobecos. I ordered direct from them and the ones I have are perfect. No metal shavings or excess machine oil. The only issue is the o-ring #21 is just a bit too thick.
 

Heartsdelight

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I was going to order a Merlin but then I saw your post...ordered, thanks....I think.. ;)

I haven't even received my full size version yet, this is starting to become a sickness, lol
Welcome to the club lol! Oooh the 3f one with logos even better! Off to check it out.
 

2legsshrt

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Well I discovered something last night with both the Tobeco's and the authentic. When you screw in the 510 pin and you get to where it stops give it another 1/4 turn or so. My resistance was running at .48 on a coil that should have been .45 by doing that it brought it down to .45. Don't crank it to where it will break anything just a little tighter.
 

Mactavish

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Well I discovered something last night with both the Tobeco's and the authentic. When you screw in the 510 pin and you get to where it stops give it another 1/4 turn or so. My resistance was running at .48 on a coil that should have been .45 by doing that it brought it down to .45. Don't crank it to where it will break anything just a little tighter.

I've posted this at least 5 times. The 510 pin needs to be VERY tight for solid ohm readings especially if you run in TC mode!
 

Heartsdelight

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Well I discovered something last night with both the Tobeco's and the authentic. When you screw in the 510 pin and you get to where it stops give it another 1/4 turn or so. My resistance was running at .48 on a coil that should have been .45 by doing that it brought it down to .45. Don't crank it to where it will break anything just a little tighter.
Thanks again for the tip!
 
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2legsshrt

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I've posted this at least 5 times. The 510 pin needs to be VERY tight for solid ohm readings especially if you run in TC mode!
Yep mine was steady but was reading higher then should be. It made a difference with the condensation coming out the bottom too. That's all I use too is TC. Still very impressed with the Tobeco. Have 2 more coming today. I also was getting a slight leak from the air inlets so I shut the JF off and I'm vaping the excess out it wasn't vaping all the juice I think this will take care of this when the vape gets anemic I will reopen it. It works exactly like the authentic. 1 full turn seems to be plenty unless I really want some strong flavor. I'm thinking I should have ordered a few build decks from FT also. Wonder what the quality is and if they are interchagable between different K5's
 
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2legsshrt

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I see they also have positive pins with the peak insulators. I am really pleasantly surprised with the quality of the clones. I think KF is going to have to come down on their price some. These are not as hard to clone as the V4. Actually they are a pretty straight forward atty.
 
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