Actually, when I water tested the latest/last firmware on the SX the Ti mode was dead nuts on. In TCR mode the SS430 and NiFe52/48 was also dead nuts on.
I have not tested my two VT-Mini's as Ni/Ti&Mx modes function as expected.
eVic-VT mini?
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Actually, when I water tested the latest/last firmware on the SX the Ti mode was dead nuts on. In TCR mode the SS430 and NiFe52/48 was also dead nuts on.
I have not tested my two VT-Mini's as Ni/Ti&Mx modes function as expected.
TL/DR doesn't matter to me if the settings agree between mods.
While I get the concept that different TC mods should theoretically behave similarly given the same settings and builds, currently all I really care about is that the mod I'm using gives me a good vape experience. This is regardless of what the settings are, or if the settings match between different mods. For what I paid for my VTC Mini (<$34) I honestly feel I'm way ahead of the game, especially after the Version 3.00 fw update. The quicker ramp up along w/temperature limiting keeps the coil from overheating at the end of an inhale, so the flavor is better, and it also lets the coil and wick last a lot longer before needing cleaning/replacing. To me this alone is a big improvement.
ETA After watching the review done by DJLsb Vapes, he shows the temps using different wires in TC to be fairly close. Most difference I remember seeing was 10 degrees F in Ti IIRC, most were in the 4-7 degrees F range (or less)- acceptable to me.
While I get the concept that different TC mods should theoretically behave similarly given the same settings and builds, currently all I really care about is that the mod I'm using gives me a good vape experience. This is regardless of what the settings are, or if the settings match between different mods. For what I paid for my VTC Mini (<$34) I honestly feel I'm way ahead of the game, especially after the Version 3.00 fw update. The quicker ramp up along w/temperature limiting keeps the coil from overheating at the end of an inhale, so the flavor is better, and it also lets the coil and wick last a lot longer before needing cleaning/replacing. To me this alone is a big improvement.
ETA After watching the review done by DJLsb Vapes, he shows the temps using different wires in TC to be fairly close. Most difference I remember seeing was 10 degrees F in Ti IIRC, most were in the 4-7 degrees F range (or less)- acceptable to me.
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Also do you prefer vaping SX mini or Evic-vtc in TC. I am asking because of puls modulation which isn't present in Evic. I am scared if I buy SX mini I wouldnt like that puls which is how SX make temperature limiting.
Can you please explain how you did water test?
Also do you prefer vaping SX mini or Evic-vtc in TC. I am asking because of puls modulation which isn't present in Evic. I am scared if I buy SX mini I wouldnt like that puls which is how SX make temperature limiting.
If also like some information on "Water testing". I'm behind the crowd on a lot of technical stuff. I'll gladly settle for a link the explains the process so no one had to write out a long lengthy explanation. Thx in advance guys, Dave
I am more concerned about Pus Modulation. Oozing sores make me squeamish.
For what it's worth, all regulated mods (except for a few outdated and obsolete mods that use linear regulators) use pulse modulation.
IIRC not all "pulse modulation" is created equal. As in igher Hz vs. lower. And 'filtering' circuitry.
Correct. Very correct.
I just hate it when people suggest this mod is better than that mod because this mod does not use pulse modulation. They all (essentially) use pulse modulation.
i find i'm getting about 25% longer battery life (based on puff count) with my evic mini compared to my koopor mini after several battery cycles. i'm not sure if this is due to a lower cut off setting on the evic or what, but i like this little box more and more every day.
I've never even paid attention to the puff counters, but I just know somehow that my battery life is MUCH better on my VTC mini than on the Koopor mini. If I had to guess, I'd say by a good 30 %.
1st I'm of the crowd that only uses as much power as needed to get the coil hot within what I consider a reasonable amount of time. The SX displayed temperature will fluxuate wildly if the power is set to high.
I'm also a bit of a "toodle puffer" and rarely if ever use more power/joules than 25W/J. Your mileage may vary if you like to crank the settings up to the maximum. (the SX mini has a number of preheat fixed settings that can be of use) Last but not least, I also tend to push the limits of how HIGH of a resistance a coil can be and still be temperature regulated. Point being that for the same wire type and TCR, a higher resistance wire will have a greater resistance change from room temperature to vaping temperature than a lower resistance wire will.
(I've vaped 2.1ohm SS430 coils on my SXminiM in Joules/TC mode without issue. Not many mods will do that. The VT-Mini's upper limit is said to be 1.5ohms?)
Not all wire types are created equal. It depends on the supplier. I order NiFe wire from Germany for this very reason. The Ti01 and SS430 wire I use I get from UnkamenSupplies)
With all that said - there are two tests that a user can do to check the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.
- the cotton burn/singe test: what temperature setting will discolor your cotton wick? (dry fire for up to a minute or two)
- the water test: funny thing about water, it boils at 212F and as long as there is water to boil, chances are your mod will be stuck at 212F until your wick starts to dry. This is best done with a RBA, RTA or RDA so you have an open deck, a single coil and your wick exposed. Personally I like doing it in the kitchen sink with the water running.
After getting the coil built and the resistance locked in, I'll wick like I normally would and I'll head for the sink and SOAK the wick with tap water. Fully drenched. The ends that would normally drop into juice channels I'll try to put over the coil leads. A wick that is DRENCHED with cold H2O (water) will be difficult for your mod to overwhelm, especially if you keep your wattage setting low - like 10-20W.
Once soaked and the leads covered with wick I'll watch the screen while firing the mod. Not all mods will give you a real time display of the wire's temperature but the VT-Mini will. Its not always an "exacting science" and the displayed value will "hover" up/down over an average value that the user can then observe.
Sometimes it takes only 1-5 seconds, others longer than that. Remember to add water to the wick if the value starts climbing up hotter.
Some mods will hold a fairly steady value for 5-10 seconds. If the value is within 5F (or less) of 212F (or exactly 212F) then whatever pre-programmed or user entered TCR value entered for the wire type in use is correct.
I usually fire - douse - repeat several times to get a good feel as to the temperature value.
If the displayed temperature value is to low (lower than 212F) your TCR is to high or large of a value and needs to be reduced.
If the displayed temperature value is to high (higher than 212F) your TCR is to low or small of a value and needs to be increased.
My 1st "TCR" adjustable mod (an Apollo Reliant) is unable to use the "standard" published values for different wire types so I got in the habit of water testing and then dry burning each different wire type before using it with my juice. (yes, I know "thebloke" posted some calculated numbers that are fairly close but he never actually tested many of them)
I now have the Reliant, two differnet SX350J's (SXminiM and Boxer350Jv1) and two VT-mini's to compare with. (a cubiod is on the way)
Personally if I'm getting a "lame vape" and don't know if it is my build, wicking, juice or wire/tcr/mod I'll drain the tank, expose the coil, soak it in water and then see for myself what the problem might be. (since I'll likely rewick anyway I don't much care if I soak it in tap water)
Personally I believe that the "hot" and "cool" qualities of different mods relates more to how well (or not) they read the base resistance of your build.
g.
I find that interesting. Before buying an Opus BT - C3100 v2.2 charger/analyzer I actually charted the puff count and time for several of my batteries to get an estimate of their comparative capacity. I got a 34 minute average run time from Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh (blue) and 38 minutes from Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh (green) batteries. My average puff duration was right at 6 seconds.
i've been using a set of hg2's. once one is depleted i pop it in the charger. that way it's rested before i replace it once the one in the mod is depleted. i use that same set in my evic. in any case there's a great difference in battery life between my two tc mods. not sure why and really don't care. i do have the evic set to 22.6 W, which is plenty for my single ti coil in my stm.
The Koopor Mini's cutoff is at 3.5v whereas the Evic vtc Mini's is at 3.2v.
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Actually from what I have understood it is frequency modulation and not pulse modulation. You might compare frequency modulation to that of FM radio and pulse modulation to more like AM radio signaling. Either method would be a way to regulate the power very rapidly but I only know about Yihi using the frequency modulation method.
I use my Evic vtc Mini as one of my backup devices and it is a fine product with an excellent screen and controls but the Yihi mods are quite a step of IMHO using them for about 9 months now. I also use DNA200 products and they are also a fine product. It is rare to ever hear any slight buzzing on the SX350J chip unless you are in a very quiet room and you are unnecessarily running a high Joules setting where the chip is fighting to keep temperature stable when you are pushing so much power to the coils. Some people have not been able to hear it no matter what they try.
In switching-mode power supplies that is pulse frequency modulation or pulse width modulation. Either one is a pulse modulation for power regulation, and not the same as signal processing in FM or AM radios.
I got an evic vtc mini yesterday. It seems to be working. I like it. A couple of questions.
1. I'd like firing time to be displayed instead of amps. I scroll to that feature and start it blinking but when I switch back to normal mode amps are still displayed. What am I missing?
2. Is max watts adjustable in temp control mode? I experimented and didn't get a good temp control vape unless watts are set to 75.
Thanks in advance for any asssistance.
1. I'd like firing time to be displayed instead of amps. I scroll to that feature and start it blinking but when I switch back to normal mode amps are still displayed. What am I missing?
2. Is max watts adjustable in temp control mode? I experimented and didn't get a good temp control vape unless watts are set to 75.
Thanks in advance for any asssistance.
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