How To Build The Turbo Coil Winder
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yep its not hard, its the same as claptoning two wires onto a base wire for the start of making a staggered coil.
& did you try not leaving a gap at the start before you start twisting up a turbocoil?
& did you try not leaving a gap at the start before you start twisting up a turbocoil?
28 ga 2.0mm Ready for incoming vectors. Thanks TURBOwinder
. Turbo, that "stop" on the rod holder is great at making neg leg bends. This is such a kick ayuss set of tools.In other news, got an email from Kuro people today asking me to review the Kuro Koiler and another from coil master asking me to review V1.3. I wonder if they took my suggestion and made the "finger" wider in diameter to more closely form normal wire, like 29-26 to the rod? I also suggested they include a second set of poles for dual coil mounting (not everyone gets sent 3 different kits to review).
Guess we'll have to see.
But in the mean time I'm TURBOwinding like the freak I am.
sorry i ment turbocoiler not turbocoil, my bad, good job on the machines TC
good work superX, gotta say SXD you have gone more mad in your vid's than riptrip hahahaa in a funny way
good work superX, gotta say SXD you have gone more mad in your vid's than riptrip hahahaa in a funny way
Slippy, is it me, or does the turbo winder make you want to try massive multi-wire in them.... just for fun?
Just think, tensioned claptons
Just think, tensioned claptons
Hey bud, yeah it defo makes me want to try make some use of tensioned wire in my builds, i'm up for anything! but my mind has gone blank...
Clapton wire is already pretty much tensioned onto its base wire and after wrapping the coil the claptons open up so thats no help.
I cant really see any benefit to tension wrapping porn coils like staggered, stapled, clapton etc.... i gotta be honest i prefer them spaced so im not burning all the juice from the wick to fast ... i dunno.. you got any ideas? LOL
On another note, im still waiting for Turbocad to let us know if he has improved his closed wrap percentage success rate using what i said about in keeping the first wraps closed when using the coiler ....
slippy the reason I leave a gap in the demo is not because I didn't think of what you are saying, yes it is true that if you start your wraps out butted tight that the wrap will naturally follow that, BUT here I'm trying to show that is not absolutely necessary, and even more so I'm trying to show that the right angle of the wire is what really causes the tight wraps... if I showed everyone to .... the wires perfectly before winding then many may wind up getting coils to look ok but not really getting the angle right, and without the right angle the wrap will be more like a wrap from a coilmaster or kuro coiler... these kinds of coilers do nothing to increase tension in the wrap, there just stacking wrap on top of wrap with no compression built into the coil, this makes them much easier to deform and have spread apart when mounting. with my coiler the whole benefit over stuff like coilmaster and kuro is the tension part of this.
the wire isn't tied to anything to induce stretch but it is being held snugly in the 2 cutting jaws and the winding of the coil is pulling against this restriction, inducing tension and strain. here's a quick sketch to show what I mean
now there is tension between the coil and the jaws and there are 2 points of mandrel forming that stress the wire into it's new form
the first bit of mandrel forming uses the wire itself as a mandrel, the approach angle causes this bit of stress which causes adhesion or compression. ever take a straight wire and pinch it between your finger tip and a tool and pinch tightly and draw the wire through this pinch? what happens? the wire winds up forming a big curve, it's no longer straight because one side of the wire winds up getting stressed more than the other, this is what happens at the first point of deflection at this approach angle meeting a slight change in direction, this forms compression or adhesion... what this does is not only stack the wraps but it makes them want to naturally pull into each other the way drawing a straight wire through your finger pinched to a tool causes the wire to curve
the second bit of mandrel forming happens right after the first but on a different plane and that's the one that turns a straight wire into a coil. in the pic I drew the bottom shows the first bit of stress forming while the top shows the second forming which is actually forming the straight wire into a coil
as far as using this for twisted wire I think that the twisted may be much harder on the leather, almost like a saw tooth action, forget about twisted ribbon like MM, that'll shred the leather to bits I think, the reason why the leather works so well is because it causes friction which increases the tension but it doesn't get damaged because the wire drawn over it is so smooth, start introducing jagged bumps of twisted and all bets are off, light gauge twisted prolly be ok, like twisted 32, twisted 30, but heavier I'm thinking will probably cause the leather to deteriorate rapidly. I haven't tried any twisted with this
the wire isn't tied to anything to induce stretch but it is being held snugly in the 2 cutting jaws and the winding of the coil is pulling against this restriction, inducing tension and strain. here's a quick sketch to show what I mean
now there is tension between the coil and the jaws and there are 2 points of mandrel forming that stress the wire into it's new form
the first bit of mandrel forming uses the wire itself as a mandrel, the approach angle causes this bit of stress which causes adhesion or compression. ever take a straight wire and pinch it between your finger tip and a tool and pinch tightly and draw the wire through this pinch? what happens? the wire winds up forming a big curve, it's no longer straight because one side of the wire winds up getting stressed more than the other, this is what happens at the first point of deflection at this approach angle meeting a slight change in direction, this forms compression or adhesion... what this does is not only stack the wraps but it makes them want to naturally pull into each other the way drawing a straight wire through your finger pinched to a tool causes the wire to curve
the second bit of mandrel forming happens right after the first but on a different plane and that's the one that turns a straight wire into a coil. in the pic I drew the bottom shows the first bit of stress forming while the top shows the second forming which is actually forming the straight wire into a coil
as far as using this for twisted wire I think that the twisted may be much harder on the leather, almost like a saw tooth action, forget about twisted ribbon like MM, that'll shred the leather to bits I think, the reason why the leather works so well is because it causes friction which increases the tension but it doesn't get damaged because the wire drawn over it is so smooth, start introducing jagged bumps of twisted and all bets are off, light gauge twisted prolly be ok, like twisted 32, twisted 30, but heavier I'm thinking will probably cause the leather to deteriorate rapidly. I haven't tried any twisted with this
just want to mention here guys that I am NOT selling anything here, I've had a few guys PM me wanting to buy this, please don't PM me looking to buy this from me because I have none to sell and I'm not looking to build these for sale. I've tried to make this as simple as possible so guys don't need anyone like me to build anything special for this...
I'm more than happy to help guide anyone here and help you build your own though
I'm more than happy to help guide anyone here and help you build your own though
Turbo, this is excellent. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort both in the conception of the tool, and the tutorials on how to put one together. Looks like a trip to the hardware store is in order! This is an ideal solution for wrapping under tension without stressing the wire.
I hope to get my coil winder done this weekend. and put up a pic with the first coil off the winder. I've got to get to Michaels this morning for some leather, as the leather pieces I have are way to thick. I think I need the piece of trim leather, have to look and see.
TURBOwinder coils in action
Turbo. I did the clamp.
However I'm having really hard time to get contact wraps. The angle keeps on re adjusting by itself vertically. Using 28 ga
Edit: I didn't do the winder part I'm using one of the winders of the coiling gizmo just to test the clamp.
However I'm having really hard time to get contact wraps
. The angle keeps on re adjusting by itself vertically. Using 28 gaEdit: I didn't do the winder part I'm using one of the winders of the coiling gizmo just to test the clamp.
Hopefully Turbo can give you some Tech Support Aal, i've never used a machine
but maybe try putting the handles of the nips or whatever that tool is with the red handles onto a desk like its standing and use it like that but push on the mandral towards the nips as you turn.. just maybe
but maybe try putting the handles of the nips or whatever that tool is with the red handles onto a desk like its standing and use it like that but push on the mandral towards the nips as you turn.. just maybe
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Ah, okay T, i thought it was a new shape reo or that pdib was doing metals now, is that bee even still making? i've not followed anything on mods since going to parallel mechs
Aal, I think your problem is the cutter you got doesn't have the curve like mine does. the curve allows you to grab the end of the wire well behind the starter wrap, causing a backwards pull against the wrap. look at the second video in this thread and watch the first coil I wrap that comes out bad. you'll see that I caught the wire pretty inboard from this outer corner. your cutter having a square end is the same as that first bad coil, grabbing the wire in the wrong place, too far forward. the curve is why I chose these cutters, something square ended like yours and most other pliers in general would require grinding and notching to allow the starter wrap to be recessed into the jaws so it can grab the wire well behind the starter wrap.
this curved end nipper I used is the key to why this works so well as simply as it does. it's like only $2 at harbor freight. I'm guessing that don't help much in Greece though
this curved end nipper I used is the key to why this works so well as simply as it does. it's like only $2 at harbor freight. I'm guessing that don't help much in Greece though
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