The ratio of pg to vg also matters....e-liquids with higher ratios of pg are going to be less viscous than e-liquids with higher ratios of vg.
(How this got to 3 pages with no mention of this is strange.)
Flooding is leaking in my book... where does the excess go?Well I've wicked my Engine Nano with a ceramic wick (ReadyXWick) and the tank didn't leak. It did flood but it didn't leak. I'm not sure how the OBS Engines would leak unless the tank wasn't screwed onto the base properly.
Please explain why?High VG juices are probably less prone to leak than PG under identical circumstances. I still think that using the o-ring pack that comes with most/all rebuildables is a good first effort to control leaking. That, and keeping the tank vertical at all times.
A good tank generally won't leak lying on its side. I've proved that by storing filled tanks in zip locks in a cabinet for months. Of course, that was at room temp. Put it in a pocket lying sideways in the Summer and all bets are off!
I've always vaped liquids with 90pg down to 60pg. I've been mixing at 70pg/30vg for a while now, with occasional mixes at 60pg/40vg.
Flooding is leaking in my book... where does the excess go?
So are you saying if I wick an Engine with A ready wick or silica. I can still pocket carry it... it won't leak when on its side?
I ask because I prefer Silica type wick
.... if I can get it to work.... I prefer it for flavor..
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Well here's the deal any setup I use MUST be pocket friendly.. it must be able to be laid down without concern for orientation....Sure it might leak in that case but I would never purposely put a flooded tank in my pocket whether its right side up, on its side or upside down. I wouldn't put a tank with cracked glass in my pocket either.
As a followup to my original post...I did some practice this weekend on wicking and I believe I almost have it down. My Merlin has not leaked since Friday night. The Ammit took a couple of tries but seems to be holding now as well. Progress.
The seal I speak of is the general "air-tightness" of the tank. As to the specific o-rings, there are four of them: the two on both ends of the glass, the one on the outer edge of the top cap, and the one in the middle of the top cap that fits down over the chimney when you screw the top cap on. The first three are more like gaskets and get squeezed as you screw the tank together. The culprit is usually the one at the top of the chimney because it doesn't get squeezed and has to seal both inside the top cap and around the chimney. If you get all four of these working correctly, the juice will stay in the tank on its own, just like putting your finger over the end of a straw. It's a vacuum based system that will stay balanced under you draw on it, creating a negative pressure in the juice well that draws juice up into the well where it can be wicked to the coil. If the coil is already saturated, the juice pulls back up into the tank when you're done drawing on it due to the negative pressure you've created in the tank by pulling juice into the well.Well, sometime your wrong and sometime your wrong.
So where is this seal you speak of? Is it at the giant gaping hole that we use to mount the driptip? Is it at the point the airflow hits the coil?
Or, as I have found/know, it is where the wet wick separates the liquid juice from the air.
Buddy, I have had way to much experience with leaky tanks to think that when it leaks from the airflow it is not the wicking. Nobody here is talking about seepage, juice pouring from a seam/joint.
But, please, walk me through your point.
I've seen WAY too many replies of 'well if it were done (fill in favorite argument) it would(n't) (fill in blank).
Well here's the deal any setup I use MUST be pocket friendly.. it must be able to be laid down without concern for orientation....
My current ADV is an Avocado22 in single coil mode. Backup is a KFL plus...
Both tanks Will leak under the wrong conditions... the Kayfun as example is very environmentally sensitive. Going from hot to cold and back will cause leakage..as will increase or decreases in altitude. if you don't equalize the pressure in the tank it drains. The avocado surprised me by how it doesn't leak....it only seems to leak when the wick gets dirty. Or is too thin at the deck.
Some tank leak no matter what you do.... most tanks only leak if setup incorrectly.
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Did you lay it down on its side? I had mine leak like that once or twice.
I don't have a kayfun so is there a check valve in the air flow supply and another check valve in the drip tip? That way the air flow can only go one way?The seal I speak of is the general "air-tightness" of the tank. As to the specific o-rings, there are four of them: the two on both ends of the glass, the one on the outer edge of the top cap, and the one in the middle of the top cap that fits down over the chimney when you screw the top cap on. The first three are more like gaskets and get squeezed as you screw the tank together. The culprit is usually the one at the top of the chimney because it doesn't get squeezed and has to seal both inside the top cap and around the chimney. If you get all four of these working correctly, the juice will stay in the tank on its own, just like putting your finger over the end of a straw. It's a vacuum based system that will stay balanced under you draw on it, creating a negative pressure in the juice well that draws juice up into the well where it can be wicked to the coil. If the coil is already saturated, the juice pulls back up into the tank when you're done drawing on it due to the negative pressure you've created in the tank by pulling juice into the well.
If you don't have a good seal, juice will flow into the well on it's own, overflow, and go down the center hole and come out the air holes.
I hope that's specific enough. As I said before, the is the principle of a Kayfun. I can't vouch for other tanks.
Nope..no check valve.. never heard of an atty with one.I don't have a kayfun so is there a check valve in the air flow supply and another check valve in the drip tip? That way the air flow can only go one way?
Please explain why?
Replacing good orings with good orings does nothing. There is a a huge vacuum leak in every RTA. It's called a drip tip and air flow.Because high VG juices have higher viscosity they move more slowly than high PG if theres a small vacuum leak.
I don't have a kayfun so is there a check valve in the air flow supply and another check valve in the drip tip? That way the air flow can only go one way?