istick 50 watt exploded

[Bikenstein]

Here's a deal on a 50 and a Lemo 2 combo with an extra 8% off if anybody is interested.
4400mAh 50W Eleaf iStick OLED Screen MOD Battery + Eleaf Lemo 2 Atomizer Kit

Notice the added info in the guarantee policy. Must have had quite a few replacements

Guarantee Policy.
Notice: eleaf now requires S/N (serial number) before providing replacements (due to counterfeits in market).
We recommend you to keep the packing boxes after you get parcel, or take a picture of SN before you discard it. Thank you

GUARANTEE
3 months for battery. Pls check Guarantee Policy
Note: We now need serial number to proceed after-sales service. Please kindly preserve the serial number of product if it's available

 

[Craig K]

Here's a deal on a 50 and a Lemo 2 combo with an extra 8% off if anybody is interested.
4400mAh 50W Eleaf iStick OLED Screen MOD Battery + Eleaf Lemo 2 Atomizer Kit

Notice the added info in the guarantee policy. Must have had quite a few replacements


GUARANTEE
3 months for battery. Pls check Guarantee Policy
Note: We now need serial number to proceed after-sales service. Please kindly preserve the serial number of product if it's available

Just checked, mine is for sure the 30. I am so happy it is not a 50!!!!

 

[Bikenstein]

that's really bad, Hope no one get hurt

Welcome to the forum Walden.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

I just ordered one myself...

While I have a few concerns, I'm really not too worried.

I don't plan on charging it over night or when I am not going to be around...
Hopefully I don't get burned and regret getting one.

 

[Philipus95]

DAMN, I use the 50 watt too, Ive never charged it over night just because, I didnt want the the battery to weaken, but im sure as hell not going to start now, thanks for the heads up

 

[Entrery]

ok..thats scary

 

[icehot]

Damn, i have istick50w too....

 

[walden]

Welcome to the forum Walden.

thanks mate

 

[The_Guyver]

I just sent eleaf a link to this thread asking if they had seen it. I am just curious what their response will be.

Please let us know if they reply.

 

[Stew2k]

I hope this was an isolated incident. I just fell in love with mine last week.

 

[buckwheat.phd]

Hey guys long time lurker but since this happened I had to post. Me and my girlfriend bought an Istick 50 watt about 3 weeks ago, and last night I plugged if up to chatge, woke up unplugged it and went dang this thing is hot. 2 mins later it goes kaboom and catches on fire. Just figured I'd post this up to warn others. Don't trust the chargee to turn off the voltage to your batteries. I'm trying to upload pics but says file is too large.

Man - what a mess. I've got an iStick 30, and first thing I did was glance over at it. This is downright spooky. These are Li-Ions right?

Although a bit dated, here's some of the first li-ions exploding in a thinkpad, circa 2007 :

 

[Katya]

These are Li-Ions right?

Nope. Li-Pos.

 

[bwh79]

These are Li-Ions right?

Nope. Li-Pos.

Er, I thought they were the same thing?

 

[caferacer]

Er, I thought they were the same thing?

Nope, they're different.

Lithium Ion vs. Lithium Polymer - What's the Difference? - Android Authority

 

[yuseffuhler]

Er, I thought they were the same thing?

Lithium ion cells have a rigid casing. Lithium polymer cells do not. My impression, anyway.

 

[bwh79]

Lithium ion cells have a rigid casing. Lithium polymer cells do not. My impression, anyway.

Yes but internally, they use the same chemistry. That's what I got from the wikipedia article I linked, anyway.

Nope, they're different.

Lithium Ion vs. Lithium Polymer - What's the Difference? - Android Authority

According to the wiki article I read, there are actually two kinds of "lithium polymer" battery. The first kind uses a polymer electrolyte. That's the one talked about in your link. They're also not fully developed or commercialized.

The second kind, is a plain old lithium-ion battery, in a non-rigid "pouch" format (though still usually encased in a rigid outer shell). Here, the term "polymer" is somewhat of a misnomer, and refers only to the polymer casing, not a polymer electrolyte. These second kind are the ones extensively used in today's technology, and internally are no different than any other Li-ion battery.

^^(Not an expert, just some guy who's asked Professor Wiki to explain a little about the subject.)

 

[The Liquid Club]

OMG! I love my istick 50W

I always leave it charging for full night when I sleep and never had problem

 

[WillyZee]

OMG! I love my istick 50W

I always leave it charging for full night when I sleep and never had problem

Yeah, I would stop doing that.

Better to be safe


Sent via iPhone

 

[DaveP]

The iStick 50W issue may be a quality control issue or a design issue. If it was a direct design issue I'd think that we'd be seeing far more failures. I vote for manufacturing QC. The design of the case doesn't leave much room for poor tolerance control. All it takes is a drop on a hard surface and positive poles suddenly begin to brush a grounded case. Then, you have a situation where internal current flow can cause a positive connection to weld to the case and result in runaway overheating, especially during charging.

Internal current monitoring by the logic should initiate a fault code and shut down the device. Obviously the fault logic isn't doing that. LiPo batteries are more forgiving than L-ion, but a short is a short. Fault circuits should be there to protect the user, but a battery short to the case requires primary voltage protection, like a fuse or breaker or over-current sensing device in the primary circuit.

 

[Bikenstein]

Posted by Shek in another forum
Five Minute Fire Button Fix
There's a silicone grommet that surrounds the fire switch, which has tiny extension arms coming off of it's corners. These 'arms' are what holds the fire button cap in place and keeps it from rattling. This is why the 20W fire button rattles, cuz it doesn't have a grommet like the 50W. What happens during assembly is that factory workers are so rushed to get them together that they mash these silicone arms so they're resting on top of the actual fire switch...and not holding up the fire button cap. So when you try to push the fire button cap, it feels like there's something in the way and why it feels "mushy". It's also why you've gotta press it hard to get it to fire, cuz those 'arms' are sitting on top of the actual firing switch causing a blockage. To fix this issue, you'll need a T6 Torx bit to remove the self-tapping screws on the top and bottom end caps of the iStick. You only need to remove the two top screws.... Be sure to turn off the device FIRST before you start taking it apart! Then hold the black plastic screen with your thumb and gently pull out the internals. You don't have to pull everything out completely, just enough so you can see the fire switch and the grommet around it....like this here:

Ya see that silicone grommet with the 4-legs surrounding the fire switch? That's what's causing the problem. So what ya do is when you push everything back into the enclosure, you wanna slide it in at a slight angle....so that the opposite side of the internals goes into the enclosure before the fire button side. This will keep those legs from getting mashed and they'll hold up the fire button cap properly. You wanna aim the fire button cap downward towards your work space when you reinsert the internals. Gravity will hold the fire button cap in place while you maneuver the internals back into the enclosure. Once everything's back in the enclosure, test the fire button to see if it's clicky and no longer 'mushy'. If it feels right and there's no longer any blockage and you can easily press the button, reinsert the screws and seal it back up.