Is it spitting constantly or only at certain times? I found that mine was most likely to spit a little after the tank had set for a couple of hours with no use. I'm also using 50/50 liquid so I'm not surprised when a coil gets over saturated.
Joyetech Cubis
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My .5 ohm coil isn't spitting at all (50/50 liquid) As I can't see how wattage settings etc could have such radical impact I'm prone to believe that it's due to variance in prebuilt coils. Have you tried more than one .5 ohm coil?
However, I just received and built a coil in the rta base and than one spits more than anything I've ever experienced (except 14-year old kids in Finland who try to be tough). Any advice on helpful hints are appreciated, particularly with horizontal coils.
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However, I just received and built a coil in the rta base and than one spits more than anything I've ever experienced (except 14-year old kids in Finland who try to be tough). Any advice on helpful hints are appreciated, particularly with horizontal coils.
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I think I just had the wattage up too high. I had it at 30 and lowered it to 24 and no more spitting and popping. It could also have been that the coil may have needed some "breaking in."
I just received the tank (and my new Tesla 80watt) so, I've only used a single .5 ohm pre-built coil so far.
In any event I love it now.
I just received the tank (and my new Tesla 80watt) so, I've only used a single .5 ohm pre-built coil so far.
In any event I love it now.
Cubis Tank...3.5 ml. capacity
Cuboid Mini Tank...5.0 ml. capacity
Both use the same BF coil heads...
http://www.efun.top/joyetech-cuboid-mini-atomizer-5ml.html
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Cuboid Mini Tank...5.0 ml. capacity
Both use the same BF coil heads...
http://www.efun.top/joyetech-cuboid-mini-atomizer-5ml.html
..
I forget when I bought this blasted thing - I've never got it to work even close to 'right'. While I was close earlier today with a Invar36 build I replaced that with what I figured to be a 'reliable' Ti build.
Even worse.
Then it dawned on me - the RBA+tank is designed in such a way that you have to dryburn your contact TC coil BEFORE installing it in the RBA!
The Cubis won this round but I have yet to purchase a tank that I've not been able to build on. I'm leaving it for another day.
Even worse.
Then it dawned on me - the RBA+tank is designed in such a way that you have to dryburn your contact TC coil BEFORE installing it in the RBA!
The Cubis won this round but I have yet to purchase a tank that I've not been able to build on. I'm leaving it for another day.
I forget when I bought this blasted thing - I've never got it to work even close to 'right'. While I was close earlier today with a Invar36 build I replaced that with what I figured to be a 'reliable' Ti build.
Even worse.
Then it dawned on me - the RBA+tank is designed in such a way that you have to dryburn your contact TC coil BEFORE installing it in the RBA!
The Cubis won this round but I have yet to purchase a tank that I've not been able to build on. I'm leaving it for another day.
There is s way to dry burn a CUBIS:
Mactavish-Cubis DRYBURN/PULSE How To!
Oh good god.... no.
I finally built a horizontal coil, dry burned it on another RBA then installed it in the Cubis. Frankly the trouble was not worth it.
Back to the junk drawer it goes.
Yeah.
No matter what circuit you're using, you're going to have trouble.
And this is because the Cubis' coils are actually res-nores setups*; the nores legs are made of Nickel, while the resistive wire is SS (wouldn't know which one).
Just go with power mode.
* not my findings, after having trouble and observing huge inconsistencies the admin of an italian forum just opened one - you can clearly see the junctions.
Sorry it didn't work out for you. I build the Cubis RBA with Titanium wire "spaced coils", drop it in the Egrip base, now I can test and read my ohms on the CoilMaster Tab 510. Next the adapter with the Cubis RBA goes on my DNA200, custom TCR for titanium pulsing, 7-10 watts @ 570f. Pulse the coil till purple, making sure there are no connection issues. Wick, and vape on any of my TC mods. I wouldn't want to build titanium RBA coils without having this info and feedback. And for those that like to dryburn their Cubis non TC coils, before re-wicking, the Egrip adapter lets you do this as well with your Cubis RBA's. Good luck!
I got the tank at the same time as a Cubiod. The tank sat unopened until some RBA's showed up. While I did get it going the last time I was not happy with the vape and spending more money on it escapes me.
I'm currently enjoying a OBS Crius and have 3-4 other tanks on order. I never thought of myself as a collector, just like playing with different tanks. Once I get a build working it might stay in for weeks or months. I just had to rewind/wick my 'throne room' mod after 3-4 months of use and about the same amount of tank refills.
I'm currently enjoying a OBS Crius and have 3-4 other tanks on order. I never thought of myself as a collector, just like playing with different tanks. Once I get a build working it might stay in for weeks or months. I just had to rewind/wick my 'throne room' mod after 3-4 months of use and about the same amount of tank refills.
There is nothing in the User Manual about the AFC...
Am I correct in thinkin' it rotates from OPEN => CLOSED => OPEN???
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Am I correct in thinkin' it rotates from OPEN => CLOSED => OPEN???
..
Hmm, not really sure why anything much would be needed as you can feel how open it is by taking a drag. Turn it to the right = fully closed, to the left = fully open.There is nothing in the User Manual about the AFC...
Am I correct in thinkin' it rotates from OPEN => CLOSED => OPEN???
..
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Thanx for the reply KenD...
Must be something wrong with my new CUBIS (or, more likely, something wrong with me)...as I can notice NO difference between fully right, in the center or fully left...
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Must be something wrong with your Cubis. Fully closed it should indeed be fully closed. As in no air whatsoever through the atty. Fully to the left should definitely be a huge difference.
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I just wrote my first impressions of the Cuboid Mini kit. Unfortunately, I'm getting crippling amounts of spitback with the new Notch coil. I hope different coils or juice will change this, but it's a bit disappointing nontheless.
Not so Ken, the Cubis does NOT fully close off: it goes from maximum (turned CW) to minimum (turned CCW) draw, but still allows a tight(er) draw.
IMHO, this is a design deficiency, and partially to blame for the flooding/gurgling after refill. It should be re-designed to fully close.
Haven't seen one of these in-person, but it appears to use the same screw-on top as the Cubis, so may have the same design deficiency I mentioned above.
I found a cure for the Cubis which may (or may not?) help with the mini:
Cubis Flood Fix | Cubis/Cuboid Ruminations
Ok, tested and you're correct. It's just so tight a draw that it almost feels like no air getting through.
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