Joyetech Cubis

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Racehorse

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Is it just his vaping style or is this tank very LOUD when you draw on it? I mean, in the video it literally sounded almost as loud as somebody letting air out of a tire. Not sure I would want to listen to myself doing that, let alone expose people around me to that, um.....*sound*.

NOt a power vaper here, so forgive if a dumb question. :) Just that I vape pretty silently....
 
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NickJustNick

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Jul 21, 2014
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The .5 and 1 ohm are 316 SS the 1.5 Clapton is kanthal


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Yeah, I know the specs on the included coils. Can't find any specs for the included wires for the new RBA. Thanks though.

Like others, I just tried in SS TC mode and it switched back to power mode. Guessing kanthal.

Only been a short time in use but airflow is nice. Flavor, however is pretty weak with the vertical build that comes with he RBA. Have to figure out a better build or stick with the claptons which are a little tight for airflow but good flavor. I suspect the included RBA vertical build will be a juice hog like the prebuilt .5.
 
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NickJustNick

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Jul 21, 2014
9
19
Pittsburgh
Is it just his vaping style or is this tank very LOUD when you draw on it? I mean, in the video it literally sounded almost as loud as somebody letting air out of a tire. Not sure I would want to listen to myself doing that, let alone expose people around me to that, um.....*sound*.

NOt a power vaper here, so forgive if a dumb question. :) Just that I vape pretty silently....

It does hiss quite a bit. Similar to fully open subtank mini but a higher pitch.
 

Mactavish

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samthefarrier

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Hey everybody I'm completely new here and stumbled across this thread when googling solutions for the problem I'm having with these Cubis 0.5ohm SS coils - the same issue it seems a lot of you are having. So I thought I'd share my experience.
I'm using the SX Mini ML Class in manual TCR mode after similarly not finding a suitable SS mode on either this mod or my Reuleaux RX200. I'm using the SX Mini as my test device as so far I've found it to be by far the most accurate device for ohm reading, applied wattage and temp restriction.
What I've found is that no matter what TCR value I use, the mod really struggles with actually maintaining the specified temperature when it hits that limit. As does the Reuleax.
I have to throw a lot of power at it to actually get it up to temp - my SX has locked the coil at 0.48ohm at room temp and then with a TCR of 0.00125 as suggested earlier on here it's taking upwards of 60w just to hit 500f. At 30w the mod can barely bring the temp past a quoted temp of 400f but it's running so damn hot the drip tip is burning my lips after any more than 2 lung inhales.
But when I set the TCR to a value that results in a fairly sensible and achievable power and temp range, when it actually hits the limit, the power becomes very stuttery like it's pulsing at maybe 10 times a second or so. Very strange. Obviously I understand that these SX350J chips use pulse modulation or whatever to achieve a limited temperature but when used with Ti01 builds on my Aromamizer you cannot notice this modulation at all. You can't really notice you aren't using it in power mode it's that smooth. So is the Reuleaux. In TC mode on the Cubis with these 0.5ohm SS coils however the modulation is VERY noticeable.
I suspect what might be happening for people who are achieving satisfactory vapes in TC mode with these coils on anything other than the Cuboid mod is that the mod is not actually providing quite enough power to actually hit that temp limit, instead it is merely topping out at that given power - so it's essentially like you're using it in power mode at your specified wattage because it's never quite hitting that limit...?
Does that make sense? I apologise if not but I'm finding it very hard to put into words what I suspect is happening.
 
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samthefarrier

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Just to add, what I HAVE found is that in temp mode, a TCR of 0.00138 at 30w with a temp limit of 400f (yes 400f!) produces a comparable vape to that of 30w in power mode. It's a rather slow ramp up time to hit that 400f limit, like maybe nearly 5 seconds from cold, and it feels like this is around about what the given power of 30w would top out at anyway when comparing it to power mode, but then as it eventually reaches the temp limit, I still get that awful modulation effect. It's like someone's flicking an on/off switch multiple times per second. But with these settings even with the modulation I'm still getting flavour and vapour production comparable to 30w in power mode.
I have to say that after owning the tank for over a week now and experimenting for some time with different TCR's, wattages and temperatures, I'm still finding 30w in power mode to be the most reliable and satisfactory vape on both my mods with this tank and the 0.5 coils.
Oh and I'm using a juice that's quoted as being "Max VG" but I'm guessing this particular flavouring is quite PG heavy because it's pretty thin compared to some of the other flavours from the same range. If I had to guess it feels like around a 70/30.
 
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BigEgo

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Yihi chips pulse like that. I never owned the SX350 but I did have the cheaper version in my IPVD2 and the pulsing drove me crazy. I don't get it on my Joyetech boards or the DNA-200.

As for the Cubis coils, I have found that a TCR between .110 and .140 works the best. It "feels" about accurate compared to other builds at the same temp. I am not sure what wire Joyetech is using, but I doubt it's really 316L.
 
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h00ligan

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Hey does anyone here have a series of coils they could put side by side and shoot from the top and bottom. Including the rebuild able (functionally looks like clr v2. I really want to see the center air flow from the to and bottom
Of the nickel vs Clapton va ss two vs rba and despite all
The reviewers talking about different coils there's not much going
On.

If someone has maybe just bought one there's three right here.

Also are there any mouth to lung vapors who were previously using and fans of the ego tanks and clr setups. And how does this stack up? It's cheap as chips so
I'm
Considering grabbing one because while
I really think the clr coils
In ego tanks are great. I hated the CK coils which limits me a bit to using clr and throwing them away / letting them in a bucket. if I
Don't feel
Like rebuilding. the capped for travel idea is fun. Not useful
For me. In mostly curious about vapor density and flavor for
Mouth to lung Vaping. The Premade coils are so inexpensive as is the tank. It's tempting. But so are several
Other tanks.

Can any mouth to lung vapors compare to triton v1/2 wih 1.8 coils?

I vape
Stainless as my main non temp contort material and nice as my main temp control. So there's that too. Are the 1 ohm stainless the same internal air hole dimensions as the Claptons. And are the nickels made for lung hitters and therefore wider ?

Thanks. Sorry for bouncing around! Too much coffee
 

gerrymi

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Are the 1 ohm stainless the same internal air hole dimensions as the Claptons. And are the nickels made for lung hitters and therefore wider ?

The only info I've run across (so far) is:

BF SS316 0.5-ohm Atomizer Head (lung hit vaping)

BF SS316 1.0-ohm Atomizer Head (mouth to lung)

BF Clapton 1.5-ohm Atomizer Head (mouth to lung)

Joyetech Cubis Tank Review - Spinfuel eMagazine

AND...

Clapton Coil for Mouth to Lung
Joyetech has developed and produced the very first Clapton coil for mouth to lung users a 1.5 ohms’ coil head that provides the mouth to lung vaper a whole new level of satisfaction.

The biggest problem for mouth to lung vapers was getting enough flavor and vapor from a tight draw coil head. With this new Clapton coil set up that is no longer an issue. I spent more than a day using this coil head on one of my Cubis tanks and I have to tell you, had this been around when I switched to sub-ohm tanks I doubt I would have adopted the Lung Hit method of vaping. If you are a mouth to lung vaper that has never been thrilled by the performance of your tank and coil heads, I urge you to try one of these. I’m betting you won’t find anything on the market that hits better, or provides as much flavor.


Joyetech Cuboid and Cubis - Full Review - Spinfuel eMagazine

..
 
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h00ligan

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The only info I've run across (so far) is:

BF SS316 0.5-ohm Atomizer Head (lung hit vaping)

BF SS316 1.0-ohm Atomizer Head (mouth to lung)

BF Clapton 1.5-ohm Atomizer Head (mouth to lung)

Joyetech Cubis Tank Review - Spinfuel eMagazine

..
Thanks. I need technical information or at least s clear picture of the coils side by side from the top and bottom. Manufacturer opinions on what their coils are for unfortunately don't always indicate what the density and flavor will be like. Some tech info will. Thanks fir your reply and help though

If anyone can post w pic of the multiple coils side by side or has tech info if appreciate it. Or anyone who has vaped regularly 1.0 CLR coils and can compare and contrast.
 
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GeorgeS

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    Ok, I tried. Not once, twice or three times but 1/2 a dozen times to get the Cubis 'RBA' to do something other than gurgle, flood or draw worse than a Nautilus when the Cubis is wide open. (sigh) I even tried the included clapton coil for grins and was unable to get a vape out of it.

    Has anyone gotten a build to work?

    I'm going to pack up the 'RBA's and clean the tank then toss it in a drawer for when I want some frustration.
     

    Mactavish

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    Ok, I tried. Not once, twice or three times but 1/2 a dozen times to get the Cubis 'RBA' to do something other than gurgle, flood or draw worse than a Nautilus when the Cubis is wide open. (sigh) I even tried the included clapton coil for grins and was unable to get a vape out of it.

    Has anyone gotten a build to work?

    I'm going to pack up the 'RBA's and clean the tank then toss it in a drawer for when I want some frustration.

    On my 2nd build. First was floody and gurgles. This time I used more cotton and let a bit of the ends stick out of the side holes and into the tank. It's much better, still get some gurgles, but as some others have speculated, the air and chimney design seems to lead to a lot of juice condensation in that area right above the coils. So when I feel it's starting to make me drink rather then Vape, I take a pipe cleaner and carefully clean out the chimney. Solves the issue for a decent amount of time. Better then taking the messy tank apart, but when changing a coil or an empty tank, that's the best way to start fresh, but that's a good time to look down the chimney pipe to see how much it's blocked by the liquid and condensation. If you don't have any pipe cleaners, that's a good time to blow it out.

    The design of the tank is intriguing, but not perfected yet. I've have only tried the .5 ohm coil as well as the RBA, but looking at on of the higher ohm coils, the air is routed down the outer part of the Atty shell and then up and under the coil. That seems likely the real idea of this system, but I guess they could not do it on the larger ohm coils and RBA. Whether or not that design really works better doesn't matter to me as I'm not using the lower ohm coils.

    My RBA build, 24 gauge titanium, 6 wraps, 3mm ID, .20 ohms. KGD cotton, on an EVIC MINI. 470 degrees @35watts, hits temp almost instantly, which I love.
     
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    BigEgo

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    Yeah I know. Like I said though, when I use the SX in TC with titanium builds on the Aromamizer there is NO noticeable pulsing at any power or temperature. It's the same on the Reuleaux RX200 - smooth TC with titanium builds but with the Cubis it really struggles and pulses like crazy. They both do.

    It's because Stainless Steel has a low TCR and it's hard for the mods to regulate such small changes in voltages needed to maintain a temp. Hence the pulsing.
     
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    USMCotaku

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    Hey everybody I'm completely new here and stumbled across this thread when googling solutions for the problem I'm having with these Cubis 0.5ohm SS coils - the same issue it seems a lot of you are having. So I thought I'd share my experience.
    I'm using the SX Mini ML Class in manual TCR mode after similarly not finding a suitable SS mode on either this mod or my Reuleaux RX200. I'm using the SX Mini as my test device as so far I've found it to be by far the most accurate device for ohm reading, applied wattage and temp restriction.
    What I've found is that no matter what TCR value I use, the mod really struggles with actually maintaining the specified temperature when it hits that limit. As does the Reuleax.
    I have to throw a lot of power at it to actually get it up to temp - my SX has locked the coil at 0.48ohm at room temp and then with a TCR of 0.00125 as suggested earlier on here it's taking upwards of 60w just to hit 500f. At 30w the mod can barely bring the temp past a quoted temp of 400f but it's running so damn hot the drip tip is burning my lips after any more than 2 lung inhales.
    But when I set the TCR to a value that results in a fairly sensible and achievable power and temp range, when it actually hits the limit, the power becomes very stuttery like it's pulsing at maybe 10 times a second or so. Very strange. Obviously I understand that these SX350J chips use pulse modulation or whatever to achieve a limited temperature but when used with Ti01 builds on my Aromamizer you cannot notice this modulation at all. You can't really notice you aren't using it in power mode it's that smooth. So is the Reuleaux. In TC mode on the Cubis with these 0.5ohm SS coils however the modulation is VERY noticeable.
    I suspect what might be happening for people who are achieving satisfactory vapes in TC mode with these coils on anything other than the Cuboid mod is that the mod is not actually providing quite enough power to actually hit that temp limit, instead it is merely topping out at that given power - so it's essentially like you're using it in power mode at your specified wattage because it's never quite hitting that limit...?
    Does that make sense? I apologise if not but I'm finding it very hard to put into words what I suspect is happening.
    when using a heavier gauge wire, you will notice the pulsing less....it seems to me that the SS heats quicker, so the mod has to work harder at maintaining the temp, and ends up pulsing...once you get up into larger gauges, like 24, 22 etc....the wire holds the heat longer, and you get less pulsing.

    As far as requiring a lot of power to get up to temp...I have not noticed this at all. I am running the cubis on a Sxk Nebula at 30 watts, and hit temp rather quickly.
     
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