Official ProVari Radius Thread - Part 2

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raitizz

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I used to feel the same way R, then I realized that it's really not ProVapes fault that 510 threaded atties have such a vast degree of variances. I use the shims to protect my devices as much as get rid of gaps, I like my atties to be snug, so that they won't wobble and cause wear of the threads of both.

The 510 connection was a poor choice for the market to stick with, there is no standard specs for length of connector that exists. A spring loaded center pin is a poor way to make it work, as the spring can introduce resistance into the circuit, and would have greater potential for leakage as well. I think the grommet supported center pin that they decided on was a good compromise, it allows some give, unlike the old fixed pin the slant top devices had, but retains the solid conductivity and leak resistance.

The gap on mine is not between the 510 and the atty. The atties sit flush on the 510 and make a connection (most of them) - the gap is between the beauty ring and the atty. I can make 1/3 of a turn with the ring with an attached atty. Same with other 510s and beauty rings from my flush P3s, when put on the Radius. Thus my theory the thread well is too shallow on the Radius. To quote Provape, "this appears to be within QC tolerance".

20160914_130339.jpg


R
 

ENAUD

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The gap on mine is not between the 510 and the atty. The atties sit flush on the 510 and make a connection (most of them) - the gap is between the beauty ring and the atty. I can make 1/3 of a turn with the ring with an attached atty. Same with other 510s and beauty rings from my flush P3s, when put on the Radius. Thus my theory the thread well is too shallow on the Radius. To quote Provape, "this appears to be within QC tolerance".

20160914_130339.jpg


R
Ah, now I see :) Have you screwed that attie down without the outer ring in place? If it does go down tight, I can see now how sanding down the inner P3/510 adapter ring would help. I happened to buy a couple spares for my parts kit, do you have any dealers on your side of the pond stocking parts? Just wondering is all.

Another thought came to mind, I did remember reading a post back some time ago regarding the cut of the P3 threads in the top cap. I saw a pic where they weren't cut as far in as another device. This may have been in the Kayfun thread on a different part of the forum here. Good luck sorting it out R.
 

raitizz

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Ah, now I see :) Have you screwed that attie down without the outer ring in place? If it does go down tight, I can see now how sanding down the inner P3/510 adapter ring would help. I happened to buy a couple spares for my parts kit, do you have any dealers on your side of the pond stocking parts? Just wondering is all.

Another thought came to mind, I did remember reading a post back some time ago regarding the cut of the P3 threads in the top cap. I saw a pic where they weren't cut as far in as another device. This may have been in the Kayfun thread on a different part of the forum here. Good luck sorting it out R.

I have 1 or 2 spare 510s, I could play with one :)

Thanks!
R
 

iBloke

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G'day All.

Upgraded my new Radius from version 20 to 40CC last night just so I could try out the coil control feature.

As I'm currently using my Kabuki I set it the menu G and slowly moved up through the temp levels...but it just never rang my bells the way the vape experience changed from what I'd become used to in standard wattage mode.

And I think I may have burnt my wick a teensy bit in the process, so I quickly resorted back to wattage mode.

The instructions http://www.provape.com/v/images/ccmanual.pdf clearly state "Pure Kanthal” atomizer coils may not work properly with the Coil Control system and will provide unpredictable results" and the table shows that the Aspire Nautilus BVC coil material is "unknown"..

IMG_0862_zpshkig71hw.jpeg


So without having to resort to reading back through the many posts in this thread I'm wondering how others are finding the CC performance using a Kabuki tank with standard coils? :)
 
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iBloke

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Just trying CC again but this time I've set it on "F", instead of the recommended "G", which I'm assuming is a lower temp range, and have incrementally adjusted it from "1" up to my current setting of "4" which is vaping quite nicely.
Warm vape with losta flavour..slightly more so than I was getting on my 11 watts setting (coil is reading 1.9 ohms) so positive results right now :)

Fingers and toes crossed I'm not shortening the life of my coil using this lol..but would still like others to chime in on their preferences, and experience :thumb:
 

BreSha6869

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G'day All.

Upgraded my new Radius from version 20 to 40CC last night just so I could try out the coil control feature.

As I'm currently using my Kabuki I set it the menu G and slowly moved up through the temp levels...but it just never rang my bells the way the vape experience changed from what I'd become used to in standard wattage mode.

And I think I may have burnt my wick a teensy bit in the process, so I quickly resorted back to wattage mode.

The instructions http://www.provape.com/v/images/ccmanual.pdf clearly state "Pure Kanthal” atomizer coils may not work properly with the Coil Control system and will provide unpredictable results" and the table shows that the Aspire Nautilus BVC coil material is "unknown"..

IMG_0862_zpshkig71hw.jpeg


So without having to resort to reading back through the many posts in this thread I'm wondering how others are finding the CC performance using a Kabuki tank with standard coils? :)
I'm too ascaired to do TC (or "CC"). ;)

Actually, I likely will never bother as I really like kanthal, Nichrome and SS, so I honestly don't have a real need for temp control. Just seems like a PITA to me. That, or maybe Im just dense. :shock:
 
Finally I have successfully got CC to work, 28G stainless steel 316L wire, 8 wraps around a 2,4mm screwdriver spaced, 0,96 ohm, in a Kayfun mini V3, CC adjusted to i - 4, the wape and taste is great. I have tried before with Titanium wire with no success at all.


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access0denied

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Finally I have successfully got CC to work, 28G stainless steel 316L wire, 8 wraps around a 2,4mm screwdriver spaced, 0,96 ohm, in a Kayfun mini V3, CC adjusted to i - 4, the wape and taste is great. I have tried before with Titanium wire with no success at all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I had issues with titanium when I tried using titanium.
 

Ca Ike

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Finally I have successfully got CC to work, 28G stainless steel 316L wire, 8 wraps around a 2,4mm screwdriver spaced, 0,96 ohm, in a Kayfun mini V3, CC adjusted to i - 4, the wape and taste is great. I have tried before with Titanium wire with no success at all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have a thread started just for cc. Post this info in that thread if you don't mind.
 
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raitizz

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My Radius just came back from PROVAPE. Fire button was sticking. Everything is great now thanks to Blake over at PROVAPE. Great customer service and prompt repairs and mailing.
a91ffcfe4dd4f0987d03f144caf76148.jpg



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Is that a GEM drip tip or are you just happy to see us? :D

R
 
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