- Status
Does anybody have any tips or ideas on how to get the V2 Ela or workhorse to consistently fire an atty ?
Mine worked great for the first year, but now I get so frustrated with them I quit using them. I use my cheap 5 dollar Gaia clones or my cheap 20 dollar Private clones instead. Maybe what I just read about the batteries needing to be perfectly flat is the reason they dont consistently fire ? I am not sure why I spent the money on them now, dont mean to bash Super T but it is kind of ridiculous at this point in my vapeing adventure.
Mine worked great for the first year, but now I get so frustrated with them I quit using them. I use my cheap 5 dollar Gaia clones or my cheap 20 dollar Private clones instead. Maybe what I just read about the batteries needing to be perfectly flat is the reason they dont consistently fire ? I am not sure why I spent the money on them now, dont mean to bash Super T but it is kind of ridiculous at this point in my vapeing adventure.
My workhorses ( I have a couple, tele and fixed versions) all fire fine.
Its a nightmare to change batteries, though.
Inconsistent firing is an issue with the contacts ( probably the top one)
Just be sure the delrin isnt moving when you adjust.
The delrin is good, sometimes I will loosen the lock ring and readjust and it fires a couple times and then quits. So then I will break it all down and throw in the ultrasound cleaner and reassemble and they work fine for a hour or so and then back to misfiring.
I am a mechanic by trade, so I understand how things can go wrong and how but these have me stumped. Unless maybe it is my batts and not being perfectly flat causes a bad connection, but this does not happen with any other mech that I own and that is probably 30 mechs by now, havent really counted the in a while. Oh well, maybe I will try some new baterries when I get around to it and let you guys know if that works. Thanks
Its an odd thing, My first ELA had firing problems, bad.... I sent it in a few times, it would work fine for a while and then again with the misfires and going through batteries real fast.
Like you said, even my cheapo Smok Natural performed much better. Id be cleaning and fiddling all day.
This one I have now is fine. Still goes thru batteries faster than any of my mechs, but it rarely misfires.
I thought the problem before was the top 510 contact. I used an Odysseus which had the air intake at the 510 so I figured that maybe with all the use the condensation was building up in the press fit top contact and causing problems.
I knew many people that used and loved their ELAs with no problems and they had side air RTAs.
I dont use Odysseus's anymore. I dont know if that was the reason, but its the only one that makes sense.
Like you said, even my cheapo Smok Natural performed much better. Id be cleaning and fiddling all day.
This one I have now is fine. Still goes thru batteries faster than any of my mechs, but it rarely misfires.
I thought the problem before was the top 510 contact. I used an Odysseus which had the air intake at the 510 so I figured that maybe with all the use the condensation was building up in the press fit top contact and causing problems.
I knew many people that used and loved their ELAs with no problems and they had side air RTAs.
I dont use Odysseus's anymore. I dont know if that was the reason, but its the only one that makes sense.
I hear you on the bottom 510 breathing but I have only used side air rtas and rdas. right now I am loving my STM s and not loving the non firing Super T. Oh well if anybody has any other ideas chime in please.
That's weird, I did notice that on my ELA the battery life wasn't very good, it got better with the new switch though.
I think it does have a lot to do with the bottom of the battery being flat.
I think it does have a lot to do with the bottom of the battery being flat.
Or maybe the O rings getting smooshed one way or the other.
Never tried a work horse though, wasn't that like a unibody simplicity with a recessed switch?
Never tried a work horse though, wasn't that like a unibody simplicity with a recessed switch?
It all seems kind of silly now to look back at it, I spent so much on that mod, I mean the mod itself was expensive but then brass rings, smooth rings, ring delete, Satburn switch, SS button for said switch, custom top caps etc. etc.
Ended up replacing 75% of the thing, by the time I sold it I think I had enough parts to make several ELA's. Actually my gf made me get rid of it bc it was getting ridiculous...
wtf was I thinking lol... Actually I thought about this before, I think Dave designed it that way on purpose to sell all the accessories, but then he kinda dropped the ball by not having them available so other modders started capitalizing on it.
Ended up replacing 75% of the thing, by the time I sold it I think I had enough parts to make several ELA's. Actually my gf made me get rid of it bc it was getting ridiculous...
wtf was I thinking lol... Actually I thought about this before, I think Dave designed it that way on purpose to sell all the accessories, but then he kinda dropped the ball by not having them available so other modders started capitalizing on it.
Last edited:
I own the slip tube type workhorse, I ordered 3 of them and 2 ELAs on his going out sale. Never considered spending the 200 bucks for these, but when he had the killer sale going out I just could not pass them up. They all worked great for the first year, however since the they have been misfiring and just cant count on then cosistently firing anymore. I always keep them clean and own an ultrasound clean machine and still have issues. Glad I did not purchase these at full price and mostly stuck with inexpensive clones that are working fine after 4 plus years. Dont want to bash Super T stuff, but mine really are a mystery to me.
Yeah dave had kind of an old school way of doing switches, with the o-rings and washers and whatnot. I mean it works, but it's not always the best. At least he's not as bad as zen, I remember him arguing about how contacts didn't need to be flat, and painted threads were fine...
The best performance mechanical mod I've ever owned was this oblivion mod...
Bought 3 of these, kept one. I think they're actually the last mechanical mod I ever bought.
Last edited:
this is it today after 3 years of use.
The most reliable atty I'd have to say the nahual, my gf used this for years and years...
The most reliable atty I'd have to say the nahual, my gf used this for years and years...
Yeah it's a great mod. I used exclusively for a couple of years until I finally gave in and bought dna boards. Just like that with a Satburn and one with an in'ax mk2.
It's weird, I was also a hardcore SS mesh user, I was lucky to be able to get ahold of a decent tank (ubertoot2) for the transition, when I finally gave up and embraced cotton...
but I'm still super sensitive to the taste of cotton and, imo even the best rta's taste bland to me, to this day. Also as a result of using mesh for so long, I have to use TC 24/7 or I burn my stupid wicks.
but I'm still super sensitive to the taste of cotton and, imo even the best rta's taste bland to me, to this day. Also as a result of using mesh for so long, I have to use TC 24/7 or I burn my stupid wicks.
Last edited:
I just bought a new mech today.... I shoulda not, but I did. I will post some photos when it gets here.
I have never owned any mechs by MMV. I found the Nanos on sale for a great price I could not pass up.
I have never owned any mechs by MMV. I found the Nanos on sale for a great price I could not pass up.
You made a good decision, mechs are all I have used for 5.5 years except for ocassional Provari or Kbox thrown in. Very simplistic and straight forward, except for my Super Ts, I guess I need to start my own thread about how to make them dependable, anyone have any ideas?
LOL, unless its a must, you, or anyone can join in on this thread. With devices like Super T, I think its very important to centralize it. Ive tried a few other times and got very little response.
I understand the animosity toward Super T, many got screwed, abandoned, and felt like all the years they put into it was just a waste. If it would happen now, they could have the excuse that its all the FDA stuff, but they let go of their vape gear because of a lot of reasons, Ive heard many, many and this is not the place to speculate, but I think what hurt its customers is that they are still manufacturing parts. They are still in business, but decided not to offer ANY care to their vape customers.
PLEASE, I dont want this to me "MY" thread, Id love it to be a thread for anyone, old member, new member, what have you, to come and discuss and crunch ideas with others than maybe have hand machining skills, or sources, etc, for those that are bright to come and help each other come up with alternate parts, etc to keep our mechs going strong.
Think of it, most mechs should not really wear out.... Delrin , springs, any soft parts are what are going to wear.
Since most mechs are 22mm im sure that between all of our collections, we can share any compatible parts.
Id love to be a place of resources , bright minds, cleaver people that see outside the usual to come up with ideas to help us all out.
- Status
