- Status
Hi J (@JJOOHHNN), thanks for the interest. Glad you caught that. By stabilizing the turn to turn relationship, balancing the rigidity to ensure effective oxidation and insulation by pulsing you can extend the life of wire.
First, two things compromise the wire significantly with time. High wire temperature as by excessive dry burn. This can erode the insulation but more importantly exceed the original oxidation (cool) temperature promoting warping. As distortion increases segments of the coil can overheat beyond the original insulation temp's and this causes premature surface erosion (rusting basically). You won't see the original gains in performance or temperature conductivity (efficiency). You'll get a hotter coil overall which feeds to the cycle (diffusion). Along with this these zones tend to accumulate more pigment accretion, requiring more dry burns of the coil…and there goes the ball game.
So the answer is impressive. I've had various t.m.c.'s in various styles of wind that have gone out beyond a year. Not what you want to use as they evidenced various degrees of distortion. Realistically some well made t.m.c.'s prudently but diligently dry burned at low temp's could go out months. For a Protank head average single coil use is 4-6 weeks requiring a wet wash and dry burn at 7-10 days (assuming light dry burns in place every 2-4 days with Nextel, KGD or cotton wick replacement. Or about at least twice the life of a factory coil to stave off accretion). So depending on the juice chemistry you could go out beyond a month to 6-weeks. Cotton or KGD coils will see an average towards the lower side of 7 days. If you have a half dozen or so coils you'll see that much variation.This compares to a factory life average of 4-5 days or 25 days for the 5-pack. Even as t.m.c.'s are more consistent they're still not perfect. Juices and vaping style can affect even small variations more than others.
Both Aerotank Mini and Protank 3 are good, take the original (PT2) coils. I enjoy them. Still build them for myself and others. The advantage is you can probably find some of the original Protank's for about 10$!!! Love the form and that fantastic leather case. Protank 3 and Aero take the high slot coil which works a bit better including the Aero Mega which is my fav (not a subtank but not for off either with the right coil and power, over 15W). The newer factory coils have a very slightly larger air hole (perhaps a mm). Doesn't seem like much but it does help, even as I was skeptical. Don't forget to drill out the air holes to the maximum in either the standard bases or the AFC versions. Especially if you use ceramic wicking. You will get some extra duty from your pin vise from the jump there J.
Now for something completely different...
Last but not least, I love the Subtank series. Have tried and sampled a number of alternatives and it is a superbly crafted and balanced RTA concept. There is a dual coil (3-wire) twisted center lead wind see above that works flawlessly with the factory OCC coil. Considerably easier to build than the PT with its tight fit. Rock solid termination and resistance. It's a bit drier than the PT heads but still can wet the base through the pin into the AFC base if you let power get too low and over-saturate the wick (gunk up). I've used the coil out beyond two months. Practical use about a month as I prefer low levels of accretion. But really rock solid performance at 15W. And if you like the low end of power 12-15W you could get into a Subtank Nano as an alternative. These are also inexpensive now and a great value for the volume vaper (which I am). Lot's of juices and gear.
J thanks for looking in. The Protank will give you the skills to build dead on predictably for any device. You will understand how you got there and be able to repeat results. That's why I keep this thread alive. I strongly suspect there will be many who'll need it in the circumstances we may be facing soon.
My standing offer…if you get hung or require specialized help contact me. I'll do the best I can or put you in touch with another accomplished t.m.c. rebuilder. Any question, post here and some subscriber will answer or give me a nudge.
Best of luck to you J and Happy Holidays.
p.s. Still looking for pics for this reply. Check back.
First, two things compromise the wire significantly with time. High wire temperature as by excessive dry burn. This can erode the insulation but more importantly exceed the original oxidation (cool) temperature promoting warping. As distortion increases segments of the coil can overheat beyond the original insulation temp's and this causes premature surface erosion (rusting basically). You won't see the original gains in performance or temperature conductivity (efficiency). You'll get a hotter coil overall which feeds to the cycle (diffusion). Along with this these zones tend to accumulate more pigment accretion, requiring more dry burns of the coil…and there goes the ball game.
So the answer is impressive. I've had various t.m.c.'s in various styles of wind that have gone out beyond a year. Not what you want to use as they evidenced various degrees of distortion. Realistically some well made t.m.c.'s prudently but diligently dry burned at low temp's could go out months. For a Protank head average single coil use is 4-6 weeks requiring a wet wash and dry burn at 7-10 days (assuming light dry burns in place every 2-4 days with Nextel, KGD or cotton wick replacement. Or about at least twice the life of a factory coil to stave off accretion). So depending on the juice chemistry you could go out beyond a month to 6-weeks. Cotton or KGD coils will see an average towards the lower side of 7 days. If you have a half dozen or so coils you'll see that much variation.This compares to a factory life average of 4-5 days or 25 days for the 5-pack. Even as t.m.c.'s are more consistent they're still not perfect. Juices and vaping style can affect even small variations more than others.
Both Aerotank Mini and Protank 3 are good, take the original (PT2) coils. I enjoy them. Still build them for myself and others. The advantage is you can probably find some of the original Protank's for about 10$!!! Love the form and that fantastic leather case. Protank 3 and Aero take the high slot coil which works a bit better including the Aero Mega which is my fav (not a subtank but not for off either with the right coil and power, over 15W). The newer factory coils have a very slightly larger air hole (perhaps a mm). Doesn't seem like much but it does help, even as I was skeptical. Don't forget to drill out the air holes to the maximum in either the standard bases or the AFC versions. Especially if you use ceramic wicking. You will get some extra duty from your pin vise from the jump there J.
Now for something completely different...
Last but not least, I love the Subtank series. Have tried and sampled a number of alternatives and it is a superbly crafted and balanced RTA concept. There is a dual coil (3-wire) twisted center lead wind see above that works flawlessly with the factory OCC coil. Considerably easier to build than the PT with its tight fit. Rock solid termination and resistance. It's a bit drier than the PT heads but still can wet the base through the pin into the AFC base if you let power get too low and over-saturate the wick (gunk up). I've used the coil out beyond two months. Practical use about a month as I prefer low levels of accretion. But really rock solid performance at 15W. And if you like the low end of power 12-15W you could get into a Subtank Nano as an alternative. These are also inexpensive now and a great value for the volume vaper (which I am). Lot's of juices and gear.
J thanks for looking in. The Protank will give you the skills to build dead on predictably for any device. You will understand how you got there and be able to repeat results. That's why I keep this thread alive. I strongly suspect there will be many who'll need it in the circumstances we may be facing soon.
My standing offer…if you get hung or require specialized help contact me. I'll do the best I can or put you in touch with another accomplished t.m.c. rebuilder. Any question, post here and some subscriber will answer or give me a nudge.
Best of luck to you J and Happy Holidays.
p.s. Still looking for pics for this reply. Check back.
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True that. And not a brag just fact @Belhade, I never burn insulators. And I've yet to tear one on a Subtank despite 27 gauge wire and twisted as above. The answers are here on this thread. Here to help if I can. I'm with ya on the PT. Always have at least one going for when I want that particular juice and a cool vape.
Good luck and Happy Holidays.
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Hey @karlmetz, hope the t.m.c.'s have kept improving. If not, you know where to reach me.
Best to you and yours this holiday season. Good luck all.
Best to you and yours this holiday season. Good luck all.
And to you and yours Mac! Your advice, as usual, spot on.Hey @karlmetz, hope the t.m.c.'s have kept improving. If not, you know where to reach me.
Best to you and yours this holiday season. Good luck all.
View attachment 516415
Hi J (@JJOOHHNN), thanks for the interest. Glad you caught that. By stabilizing the turn to turn relationship, balancing the rigidity to ensure effective oxidation and insulation by pulsing you can extend the life of wire.
First, two things compromise the wire significantly with time. High wire temperature as by excessive dry burn. This can erode the insulation but more importantly exceed the original oxidation (cool) temperature promoting warping. As distortion increases segments of the coil can overheat beyond the original insulation temp's and this causes premature surface erosion (rusting basically). You won't see the original gains in performance or temperature conductivity (efficiency). You'll get a hotter coil overall which feeds to the cycle (diffusion). Along with this these zones tend to accumulate more pigment accretion, requiring more dry burns of the coil…and there goes the ball game.
So the answer is impressive. I've had various t.m.c.'s in various styles of wind that have gone out beyond a year. Not what you want to use as they evidenced various degrees of distortion. Realistically some well made t.m.c.'s prudently but diligently dry burned at low temp's could go out months. For a Protank head average single coil use is 4-6 weeks requiring a wet wash and dry burn at 7-10 days (assuming light dry burns in place every 2-4 days with Nextel, KGD or cotton wick replacement. Or about at least twice the life of a factory coil to stave off accretion). So depending on the juice chemistry you could go out beyond a month to 6-weeks. Cotton or KGD coils will see an average towards the lower side of 7 days. If you have a half dozen or so coils you'll see that much variation.This compares to a factory life average of 4-5 days or 25 days for the 5-pack. Even as t.m.c.'s are more consistent they're still not perfect. Juices and vaping style can affect even small variations more than others.
Both Aerotank Mini and Protank 3 are good, take the original (PT2) coils. I enjoy them. Still build them for myself and others. The advantage is you can probably find some of the original Protank's for about 10$!!! Love the form and that fantastic leather case. Protank 3 and Aero take the high slot coil which works a bit better including the Aero Mega which is my fav (not a subtank but not for off either with the right coil and power, over 15W). The newer factory coils have a very slightly larger air hole (perhaps a mm). Doesn't seem like much but it does help, even as I was skeptical. Don't forget to drill out the air holes to the maximum in either the standard bases or the AFC versions. Especially if you use ceramic wicking. You will get some extra duty from your pin vise from the jump there J.
Now for something completely different...
Last but not least, I love the Subtank series. Have tried and sampled a number of alternatives and it is a superbly crafted and balanced RTA concept. There is a dual coil (3-wire) twisted center lead wind see above that works flawlessly with the factory OCC coil. Considerably easier to build than the PT with its tight fit. Rock solid termination and resistance. It's a bit drier than the PT heads but still can wet the base through the 510 if you let power get too low and over-saturate the wick (gunk up). I've used the coil out beyond two months. Practical use about a month as I prefer low levels of accretion. But really rock solid performance at 15W. And if you like the low end of power 12-15W you could get into a Subtank Nano as an alternative. These are also inexpensive now and a great value for the volume vaper (which I am). Lot's of juices and gear.
J thanks for looking in. The Protank will give you the skills to build dead on predictably for any device. You will understand how you got there and be able to repeat results. That's why I keep this thread alive. I strongly suspect there will be many who'll need it in the circumstances we may be facing soon.
My standing offer…if you get hung or require specialized help contact me. I'll do the best I can or put you in touch with another accomplished t.m.c. rebuilder. Any question, post here and some subscriber will answer or give me a nudge.
Best of luck to you J and Happy Holidays.
p.s. Still looking for pics for this reply. Check back.
Thanks, what got me interested is a small form factor to carry lose in a pocket. To keep things small I have elected to not have VV but instead fixed voltage. Pen shapes have the advantage of fitting in some pen holding slots.
I have a bunch of stainless Evod 650 mah batteries and I have four more Aerotank Mini's in route.
My pocket carry gear is going to be a selection of a these 5 Aerotank Mini's, A 18350 device with a Nano Kayfun when I can carry something a little larger, and two more small devices. I use pocket carry gear a lot.
An Aerotank Mini on a 650mah fixed voltage Evod battery makes for a rather small easy to carry package.
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Yes, it is if you like/need compact. I also liked the Magneto in eGo/18500 mode for those mini's. Also, 18350 with a kick for low, consistent and long lasting power. Was for a long time my fav movie theater carry. Just don't sit on it, lol. I wishboned 'em too often!
Well, you have yourself a great holiday J. Here anytime as I said. Good luck.
Yes, it is if you like/need compact. I also liked the Magneto in eGo/18500 mode for those mini's. Also, 18350 with a kick for low, consistent and long lasting power. Was for a long time my fav movie theater carry. Just don't sit on it, lol. I wishboned 'em too often!
Well, you have yourself a great holiday J. Here anytime as I said. Good luck.
View attachment 516469
I will jump into this thread and read it from start to finish on the 26th.
Yes, it is if you like/need compact. I also liked the Magneto in eGo/18500 mode for those mini's. Also, 18350 with a kick for low, consistent and long lasting power. Was for a long time my fav movie theater carry. Just don't sit on it, lol. I wishboned 'em too often!
Well, you have yourself a great holiday J. Here anytime as I said. Good luck.
View attachment 516469
Form factor is as important to me as vape quality. I am a bit of an odd ball out here, I am the only smoker or exsmoker that do the activities I do. At home I am 100% 18650, I like to climb, decend into caves, ridge run, and bicycle in steep hill country and when I can mountain country.
One reason I am interested in learning to wrap these coils is fixed voltage is size efficient. Since I am giving up VV I want to learn how to make coils that match the battery instead of making the battery match the coils. I know the juice makes a difference as well. I am going to try and find 4-6 juices that work well with a specific battery coil combination.
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I hear you. As a kayaker I use old EVOD tanks rebuilt for old eGo batteries so that dropping my vape in the Hudson is no great loss.
Just wanted to wish you @JJOOHHNN and everyone just landing here a Happy. And to offer to pick up where we left off before the holidays. Shoot us a pic let us know how you're doing.
Good luck all.
Lifted from the thread PROBLEMS | Page 2 | #22 for help here on temperature issues and sensitivities...
I'm not too sure you should come to that conclusion on it being pg just yet. First, you're still using quite a bit and at at lower power levels which might make it less evident. Same thing goes for nic which if too high for your tolerance will produce irritation short and long term. No, you're more likely to be sure if you run an isolation as suggested earlier.
Here you are on power where you stand and it seems to favor you (I assume a 5/64" 9/8 wrap single, use the "Advanced" tab and expand window to wide)…
30 AWG 9/8 1.98mmØ = 1.93Ω @ 9.8W 181mW/mm²
And the 181mw is just a tad to the high side of a good reliable warmth for most. The higher this figure the warmer the vape will be. I generally target 165-195 for good production. Even as low as 125 for juices with flavor notes usually sweet that shine on the cool side. So it is about watts but relative to surface area of the wind. This website will help you figure out what temp's work for you and in finding a home for troublesome juices.
Two things. You can gradually adjust your nic by buying or mixing two nic levels and combining the two to reach a target on the fly. Like mixing 12 and 9 mg. Or if you buy purchase extra flavor and dilute to a percentage with straight pg or vg. Then def give yourself the opportunity to try vaping some straight vg and then vg with flavoring.
These are things you can and should try to better pinpoint the cause of the irritation. Could be a combo of things like nic and pg working with a specific flavoring type. But to get to that level of understanding means isolating pg and nic first. Lowering power of itself will only reduce the impact of an ingredient to any sensitivity not eliminate it. And we all hate surprises.
Very best of luck.
I'm not too sure you should come to that conclusion on it being pg just yet. First, you're still using quite a bit and at at lower power levels which might make it less evident. Same thing goes for nic which if too high for your tolerance will produce irritation short and long term. No, you're more likely to be sure if you run an isolation as suggested earlier.
Here you are on power where you stand and it seems to favor you (I assume a 5/64" 9/8 wrap single, use the "Advanced" tab and expand window to wide)…
30 AWG 9/8 1.98mmØ = 1.93Ω @ 9.8W 181mW/mm²
And the 181mw is just a tad to the high side of a good reliable warmth for most. The higher this figure the warmer the vape will be. I generally target 165-195 for good production. Even as low as 125 for juices with flavor notes usually sweet that shine on the cool side. So it is about watts but relative to surface area of the wind. This website will help you figure out what temp's work for you and in finding a home for troublesome juices.
Two things. You can gradually adjust your nic by buying or mixing two nic levels and combining the two to reach a target on the fly. Like mixing 12 and 9 mg. Or if you buy purchase extra flavor and dilute to a percentage with straight pg or vg. Then def give yourself the opportunity to try vaping some straight vg and then vg with flavoring.
These are things you can and should try to better pinpoint the cause of the irritation. Could be a combo of things like nic and pg working with a specific flavoring type. But to get to that level of understanding means isolating pg and nic first. Lowering power of itself will only reduce the impact of an ingredient to any sensitivity not eliminate it. And we all hate surprises.
Very best of luck.
Short Answer: More wick, more flow potential and power may be applied. More vapor, more flavor. Use a t.m.c., more efficiency and overall vaporization rate to make use of that thicker wick.
Lifted from the post Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Post 1280 for more info.
30 seconds to a ridiculously wonderful vape…and it's all right here on this thread.
Good luck all.
Want to take a min to thank you for your great contribution Bill with this great jig concept (above pics). You made the point that it's about strain and got a lot of them turning their heads. I thank you for that my friend. Sorry I missed your post at the time (the OP covered it with an answer).
Best of luck to you this New Year.
Lifted from the thread...Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Page 67 | E-Cigarette Forum
Hey rev…
Let me tell ya little story
'bout a man named Loud.
Bought a winning ticket
from the Vapors of a Cloud.
Came back later with the Ω
as low's could be…
but couldn't taste the vape
for all the heat ya see.
Fixed up his Tobh with a brand
new t.m.c.
This time strained from turns
to posts tightly.
Now his vape's cool as a
vapes 'posed to be…
and he's chuckin out the plumes
'cause of conductivity.
Moral of the story
is you need good oxidation.
Otherwise you'll suffer more
vaper...consternation.
Other's may look right but they're
only simulation.
To get 'em that there tight bro
you've gotta wind with tension.
Good luck.
Hey rev…
Let me tell ya little story
'bout a man named Loud.
Bought a winning ticket
from the Vapors of a Cloud.
Came back later with the Ω
as low's could be…
but couldn't taste the vape
for all the heat ya see.
Fixed up his Tobh with a brand
new t.m.c.
This time strained from turns
to posts tightly.
Now his vape's cool as a
vapes 'posed to be…
and he's chuckin out the plumes
'cause of conductivity.
Moral of the story
is you need good oxidation.
Otherwise you'll suffer more
vaper...consternation.
Other's may look right but they're
only simulation.
To get 'em that there tight bro
you've gotta wind with tension.
Good luck.
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Well....coming from you.....I better rethink the tensioned method. At 75 years of age, change comes slowly.....Lifted from the thread...Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Page 67 | E-Cigarette Forum
Hey rev…
Let me tell ya little story
'bout a man named Loud.
Bought a winning ticket
from the Vapors of a Cloud.
Came back later with the Ω
as low could be…
but couldn't taste the vape
for all the heat ya see.
Fixed up his Tobh with a brand
new t.m.c.
This time strained to turns and
and posts tightly.
Now his vape's as cool as 'posed
to be…
and he's chuckin plumes 'cause of
conductivity.
Moral of the story
is you need good oxidation.
Otherwise you'll suffer more
vaper...consternation.
Other's may look right but they're
only simulation.
To get 'em that there tight bro
you've gotta wind with tension.
Good luck.
Started out by building a few of them rg. Over the first few months after I quit, Jun 2013. I knew that strain was an alternative way of shaping metals as opposed to forming (bending). Based on a bit of tech knowledge I also knew that strain could do some interesting things for the electrical characteristics of Kanthal. After a few dozen winds I realized the ergonomics of pin vise tensioned winding would be of enormous benefits to folks trying to quit and I joined ECF. At that point there was no possibility of failure. No looking back. I was going to have the great vape I wanted anytime. After I realized that anyone could do it. Even me.
The rest is up to you. Lots of notes on this thread by myself and others. Not as much on the oxidation process as I'd hoped. But I'm here along with some subscribers. This thread saw about a 100 thou views in the early months of 2015, a doubling of traffic over the prev year. And since I've talked to folks from around the world successfully using the method. While the industry has gone off pursuing ever greater power as the means to vapor, I more than ever believe that balanced circuit strain yields the geometry of stable efficient vapor production at every level. Effective power wins no matter the output you seek whether you're a tootie or a chucker. After winding and vaping thousands of these builds by myself and others, I know that to be true. But I'm one of the most skeptical peeps you're likely to meet. Always needed you guys out there to put it to the test as I have — Prove all things, hold fast that which is good. And its been gratifying to see so many succeed. That's why I'm here.
Give a holler if you need info. Drop a line here.
Good luck.
The rest is up to you. Lots of notes on this thread by myself and others. Not as much on the oxidation process as I'd hoped. But I'm here along with some subscribers. This thread saw about a 100 thou views in the early months of 2015, a doubling of traffic over the prev year. And since I've talked to folks from around the world successfully using the method. While the industry has gone off pursuing ever greater power as the means to vapor, I more than ever believe that balanced circuit strain yields the geometry of stable efficient vapor production at every level. Effective power wins no matter the output you seek whether you're a tootie or a chucker. After winding and vaping thousands of these builds by myself and others, I know that to be true. But I'm one of the most skeptical peeps you're likely to meet. Always needed you guys out there to put it to the test as I have — Prove all things, hold fast that which is good. And its been gratifying to see so many succeed. That's why I'm here.
Give a holler if you need info. Drop a line here.
Good luck.
Picked up from my post on thermal output and efficient coil design, some suggestions…Subtank RBA builds? show em! | Page 21 | Post #408
Heat flux is the measure of thermal output. What's good is the level of warmth you enjoy. That gets the max out of the juices you like. Some are really full cool. Many require warmth like tobacco. But not too hot or you mute flavors. Usually the accents.
I enjoy a range roughly between 150-200 mW/mm² although I do go a bit lower and sometimes considerably higher. Generally towards the higher with 18650's, lower with 18490 mech's. With variables I go for the highest capacity I can handle and is best for the chip. See Mod range | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators.
I'd suggest building (and bookmarking) some variations labelled as I have with some of the parameters like Ø, turns, etc. so you can compare them side by side. Choose the wattage input your most likely to enjoy in each one to force the mW/mm² calculation. I use the output wattage at 4.2v at the wound resistance for mechs. It'll be different for each wind. For variables, I use my maximum target wattage at the usually optimal resistance for the box. You'll start to get a sense of what you can expect after you build a few using this approach. And also to learn to match as best as possible the output of your mechs to what your getting out of your variables.
There ya go. Have at it, and good luck!
p.s. Calc your total thermal output vs total surface area of your wind/s. However…consider always that it's wetted contact surface that delivers the energy. Aspect ratio of the wire can send more of it out to air diffusing the vape (not vaporization). Even more so for multi wire. This means you're going to require more power and need to design the build for it. Why I recommend a properly oxidized contact coil for beginners so they can appreciate what an efficient wind can deliver.
Thanks!
This may be a bit OT here but is the idea to keep the heat flux low?
Heat flux is the measure of thermal output. What's good is the level of warmth you enjoy. That gets the max out of the juices you like. Some are really full cool. Many require warmth like tobacco. But not too hot or you mute flavors. Usually the accents.
I enjoy a range roughly between 150-200 mW/mm² although I do go a bit lower and sometimes considerably higher. Generally towards the higher with 18650's, lower with 18490 mech's. With variables I go for the highest capacity I can handle and is best for the chip. See Mod range | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators.
I'd suggest building (and bookmarking) some variations labelled as I have with some of the parameters like Ø, turns, etc. so you can compare them side by side. Choose the wattage input your most likely to enjoy in each one to force the mW/mm² calculation. I use the output wattage at 4.2v at the wound resistance for mechs. It'll be different for each wind. For variables, I use my maximum target wattage at the usually optimal resistance for the box. You'll start to get a sense of what you can expect after you build a few using this approach. And also to learn to match as best as possible the output of your mechs to what your getting out of your variables.
There ya go. Have at it, and good luck!
p.s. Calc your total thermal output vs total surface area of your wind/s. However…consider always that it's wetted contact surface that delivers the energy. Aspect ratio of the wire can send more of it out to air diffusing the vape (not vaporization). Even more so for multi wire. This means you're going to require more power and need to design the build for it. Why I recommend a properly oxidized contact coil for beginners so they can appreciate what an efficient wind can deliver.
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A Tensioned Contact Micro Coil and the advanced build...
Thought I'd drop this here as a good example of t.m.c. oxidation. Certainly easy to achieve for a Subtank single. Prev posted this build result on the following threads but new rebuilders may benefit from what tensioned microcoils can yield with more complex installs...
READYxWICK for non cotton people
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
The uniform oxidation made simple by tensioned winding solves much of the problem of balancing coil output...
One of the most often made and unfounded criticisms about microcoils is that they're too hot...they cook the wick. Obviously from those who've never successfully made one. Tensioned contact microcoils run at stable uniform end-to-end temperatures given the same wattage, this puts the maximum amount of heat evenly on the wicks surface. Also, they are not a pipe! Small barely visible gaps remain between turns even on the most well oxidized and evenly tensioned coil. Internal pressures do build however which broaden those gaps and cause other micro seperations in operation from which vapor, lots of it, escape freely.
This brings me to this image and interesting observation about a very useful wicking media alternative. I've shared pics for this build extensively but never emphasized something unique about its vapor production. Did you notice it?
Vapor is effusing from the entire coil surface. But far more interesting...from the wicks themselves...end-to-end!
Pretty impressive stuff Nextel woven ceramic fiber insulation. Spoken about its properties often on this and the above threads. A great option I believe for both flavor and power when deployed with a very efficient build.
Any questions, hail us here or on the above links.
Good luck all.
Thought I'd drop this here as a good example of t.m.c. oxidation. Certainly easy to achieve for a Subtank single. Prev posted this build result on the following threads but new rebuilders may benefit from what tensioned microcoils can yield with more complex installs...
READYxWICK for non cotton people
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
The uniform oxidation made simple by tensioned winding solves much of the problem of balancing coil output...
One of the most often made and unfounded criticisms about microcoils is that they're too hot...they cook the wick. Obviously from those who've never successfully made one. Tensioned contact microcoils run at stable uniform end-to-end temperatures given the same wattage, this puts the maximum amount of heat evenly on the wicks surface. Also, they are not a pipe! Small barely visible gaps remain between turns even on the most well oxidized and evenly tensioned coil. Internal pressures do build however which broaden those gaps and cause other micro seperations in operation from which vapor, lots of it, escape freely.
This brings me to this image and interesting observation about a very useful wicking media alternative. I've shared pics for this build extensively but never emphasized something unique about its vapor production. Did you notice it?
Vapor is effusing from the entire coil surface. But far more interesting...from the wicks themselves...end-to-end!
Pretty impressive stuff Nextel woven ceramic fiber insulation. Spoken about its properties often on this and the above threads. A great option I believe for both flavor and power when deployed with a very efficient build.
Any questions, hail us here or on the above links.
Good luck all.
A short exchange that may be of interest to new vapers landing here began with this inquiry…
For all the fundamentals from the basic to advanced on dialing in a precision repeatable baseline build see my posts here and on...
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Give a shout when you have the tools and are ready. Glad to help.
Good luck.
Do you guys mind if Toptank owners post here too or is there a separate thread for that one?
I just made my first coil & was hoping for some feedback.
I did ten and a bit wraps in 26g grade 1 titanium (comes in @0,4ohm) but I can't really get it spaced out evenly (the ti wire is very springy), I know it is far from pretty but will this be a problem in use?
My first mod will arrive tomorrow so I'm just trying to get everything ready so I can start vaping as soon as it gets here
I think I'll order some 28g too so I can do with a few less wraps for the same resistance, ten seems a little much for the little Kanger RBA.
For all the fundamentals from the basic to advanced on dialing in a precision repeatable baseline build see my posts here and on...
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Give a shout when you have the tools and are ready. Glad to help.
Good luck.
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