You guys are really helpful, thanks a lot.
oops, yeah, you want it slightly above the 510 ring. It's alright though, it'll still work, just maybe don't put it in your pocket.
If you read this, don't waste your money, BOTH are Crap. JMHOREO Grand Clone/Challace III from Focalecig China warehouse ($27.27).
In the chalice I'd start with a single contact coil, go for the 1.2 or higher. Remember, you will either have to figure out where the inner air hole is pointing and build in front of it, or tap out the inner chamber and reposition it so that it's in the correct spot. You really want the air hole to sit dead center on the side opposite the posts so you have room to build and have air flow.So I have a Grand clone and Chalice III, coming in the next couple weeks or months.. Ordered from China, Friday..
Anybody have a recommended build for the atty. Will try anything 20 watts or LESS, preferably around 10 to 15watts. I use Kanthal of 28awg or SMALLER.
My current preference is .9ohm to 1.2ohm mechanical, or 1.3-1.5ohm regulated, single twisted coils.. Yes I will regulate the Reo clone, via a kick. Works in the Smokeless owl, so the Reo should be easier to do. But will probaly go more to the mechanical side. Because 18650 batteries last longer than 18500s, especially when the 18500 is pushing a kick module.
When you build that Chalice,check it on an ohm meter or a regulated mod first.Burnie mentioned in another thread that he thought the Reo clone clone was bad,but found out the Chalice clone was the cause of the problem.I forget what he said was causing it,but it was shorting out.So I have a Grand clone and Chalice III, coming in the next couple weeks or months.. Ordered from China, Friday..
Anybody have a recommended build for the atty. Will try anything 20 watts or LESS, preferably around 10 to 15watts. I use Kanthal of 28awg or SMALLER.
My current preference is .9ohm to 1.2ohm mechanical, or 1.3-1.5ohm regulated, single twisted coils.. Yes I will regulate the Reo clone, via a kick. Works in the Smokeless owl, so the Reo should be easier to do. But will probaly go more to the mechanical side. Because 18650 batteries last longer than 18500s, especially when the 18500 is pushing a kick module.
When you build that Chalice,check it on an ohm meter or a regulated mod first.Burnie mentioned in another thread that he thought the Reo clone clone was bad,but found out the Chalice clone was the cause of the problem.I forget what he said was causing it,but it was shorting out.
Cool,just wanted to make sure.I know there are some people who just trust their builds enough to throw them right on a mech without checking,and since there is a confirmed issue with at least his atty,wanted to make sure someone else doesn't have that same issue.OK, But I always use a DMM to check my mod and atty prior to usage or building. Even if I had a mod with a meter, I would NEVER trust the on-board meter for building or maintenance purposes. Regardless of the on-board meters accuracy. I will treat it like the idiot lights of a Car, rather than a true diagnostic tool.
Cool,just wanted to make sure.I know there are some people who just trust their builds enough to throw them right on a mech without checking,and since there is a confirmed issue with at least his atty,wanted to make sure someone else doesn't have that same issue.
The idea is to check for a short, with the cap and DT on.Wellll, I do put untested builds on my mech, often.... Just not NEW builds. After building the same 1ohm to 1.5ohm coils a few dozen times each. I will wrap and vape an untested coil, when it is a build I am familiar with. But then I vape at 1ohm and higher, using 35amp rated batteries. I'm not too worried about minor mistake being "un-safe". Oh by the way what many around here call being safe I call being paranoid and wussiness.
Yep,now that you mention that,that's where Burnie had his issue.Said he tested it without the cap and it was good,so he threw it on the Reo clone,and dropped the spring.Rechecked the atty again and when he put the cap on,it was shorting out.The idea is to check for a short, with the cap and DT on.
Prevents dropping the spring, or venting the battery from a short.
The chalice III has an extra chamber inside the top cap, so it would be easy to short on it if you don't account for the size difference.Yep,now that you mention that,that's where Burnie had his issue.Said he tested it without the cap and it was good,so he threw it on the Reo clone,and dropped the spring.Rechecked the atty again and when he put the cap on,it was shorting out.
Ok,yeah that makes sense then.I don't have one,so just going by the issue he had,as i had planned on getting one until he mentioned his issue.I'll probably get one to try out anyway.The chalice III has an extra chamber inside the top cap, so it would be easy to short on it if you don't account for the size difference.
When you build that Chalice,check it on an ohm meter or a regulated mod first.Burnie mentioned in another thread that he thought the Reo clone clone was bad,but found out the Chalice clone was the cause of the problem.I forget what he said was causing it,but it was shorting out.
The problem with the Chalice III clone I got is the air flow insert, it shorts with the screws. I removed it and no shorts, air flow is not what I would like, but no shorts. I put a fuse in the cReo to make up for the collapsed spring and the Chalice III clone is working fine on it, without the airflow insert. Just make sure to check the Ω with it fully put together to make sure there are no shorts.Yep,now that you mention that,that's where Burnie had his issue.Said he tested it without the cap and it was good,so he threw it on the Reo clone,and dropped the spring.Rechecked the atty again and when he put the cap on,it was shorting out.